Climbs 273
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 106m a.s.l
Faces S

Vlad no hands resting on the monster roof of 'Moi vouloir toit' © Dave Bond

Crag features

An extensive area of crags, offering everything from technical grey slabs through to spectacular, overhanging tufas. Like Seynes, Russan is a great winter-sun destination. Although, unlike Seynes, there is a lot more to go at in the 5s and low 6s.

Russan is a real sun-trap, shaped like a reflector oven it can offer climbing in T-shirts in the middle of winter when the puddles at the top of the crag are frozen solid - it is a good idea to be prepared for each end of the temperature spectrum if you're visiting in the winter. Though mostly south-facing, the wings at either end offer a little shade at the start and end of the day. If it is warm however, you would be better off climbing elsewhere. The great majority of routes dry very quickly - though the tufas will be dripping for sometime after prolonged rain.

Approach notes

The approach to Russan is not obvious, as you cannot see the crag until you're right on top of it. There is a large roundabout at the centre of the village of Russan, exit this roundabout along Avenue des Sept (passing a bar on your left). Follow Avenue des Sept for 200m, turning right at a colourful selection of signs onto Rue de Castellas. Follow Rue de Castellas up the hill for 500m until you reach a public information sign on the right, and a sign to Las Castellas, which you are going to follow. If you wish to park away from the crag (which does have a bad record for break-ins), it's probably best to park here and continue on foot. Turn left opposite the public information sign onto Chemin Dit des Cabines and continue for another 500m (the road turns to gravel after 100m) until you reach a large parking area on the left. If you park here, you are strongly advised to leave no valuables in your car, leave it so it's clearly not got any valuables in it, and you may even wish to leave it unlocked.

From the parking area, pass around the prominent gate and follow the track for 700m until you reach a fork.

For the right-hand side (looking in) of the crag, take the left fork, and follow the track for a short way past a sign to another fork, take this second fork on the right and continue until a small track leads off to the right (a sizeable tree is on the left). Follow this trail down to the right-hand side of the crag.

For the left-hand side of the crag (looking in), take the right fork and continue for another 600m until you reach a chain across the track. Pass the chain and take a path off to the left after just 30m - or walk a bit further and get a great view of where you're going to be climbing - and follow the track down along the base of the crags.

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Guidebooks

France : Languedoc-Roussillon

The third book in the Rockfax France series covers the extensive and fertile climbing area west of the author's previous guide to Haute Provence. The areas covered largely surround the beautiful Parc National des Cťvennes, but also includes crags that are close to the cities of Nimes and Avignon.
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 Rolling Stones 
2Petite f√©e6a ** 
3Masques et bourrasques6b ** 
4Serpent d'√©toile7a+ ** 
5Aurore marine5a ** 
6Avant le temps6b ** 
7L'arc en ciel de tes yeux6c+ *** 
8Brise macrobiotique6c+ ** 
9Des canards qui parlent6c ** 
10Jouvence6b+ ** 
11Principe entropique6b ** 
12Rolling Stones6b+ *** 
13Larmes de lune6a+ *** 
14Le grand frisson6c ** 
15Technicolor6a+ *** 
16√éle de R√©6b *** 
17M√©l√©agrine6c ** 
18Si bien de rentrer √† pied6b ** 
19Les fleurs6a+ * 
20M√©lod√©on6a+ ** 
21T√©l√©ologie5c *** 
22Nid d'aigle6a+ * 
23Nooshere6b+ * 
24Sur la piste de laetoli6b+ ** 
25Mur de poussi√®re6c+ *** 
 La Belle √Čpoque 
27Un parfum d'iris5c * 
28Les jardins de Babylone5a * 
29Peau de p√™che5c * 
30Aux sources du bonheur4a * 
31Aventurine6b * 
32Histoire sans fin 16b * 
33Histoire sans fin 26a * 
34Demeure des dieux6b * 
35Efflorescence6a+ * 
36Aegagropile6a  
37Le sourire du Sphinx6c * 
38O√ļ sont-ils donc?7a * 
39Rousseline5c  
40La belle √©poque6a ** 
41De jaspe et d'opale6b ** 
42Am√©lie m√©lodie6b+ ** 
43Danse avec les clous6b+ ** 
44Anaglyptique6c ** 
45Les racines du ciel6b ** 
46Par-del√† l'azur des r√™ves6a+ *** 
47Mallefougasse6a+ *** 
48Vague √† l'ame5a ** 
49Le grand di√®dre5c ** 
50L'√©pitre aux cl√©s5c ** 
51Ramon6a ** 
52Epitome6a ** 
53Musique c√©leste6a+ ** 
54Les cavaliers de l'orage6a **2
55Nouvelle cosmogonie6b ** 
56La couleur du plaisir6b+ ** 
57Alicantropie6a+ ** 
58Paradis oubli√©s6c+ ** 
59Avalanche6a+ ** 
60Dans le sillage de Poséidon6b **1
61Eternel retour6a+  
 Kalifornia 
63Key largo
-
5c  
64Papa fusion
-
6b  
65Venus
-
5c  
66Sol
-
6c+  
67Germen
-
6c+  
68Red roc
-
7b  
69Myosotis
-
7a  
70Kalifornia
-
7a  
71L'echappee belle
-
7b+  
72Vasi vasa
-
6b+  
73Farfadet
-
5c  
74Sortilege
-
6a  
75L'homme eau
-
6a+  
76Les marches de sable
-
5a  
77Au pays des Elfes
-
5c  
78Fide
-
5c  
79Belles de Commercy
-
6a  
80Au desert des etoiles
-
6a+  
81La salsa pareille
-
4c  
 Le Jours de Printemps 
83Ou vas-tu ?
-
6b+  
84A l'autre bout de toi
-
6b+  
85Ecorces confites
-
6c  
86Maitre Capello
-
6c  
87Bouche attack
-
Project  
88Tourne bouboule
-
7c  
89Lichen contre attaque
-
6b+  
90Le regime fiscal des societes
-
6a+  
91Clip hard
-
7a  
92Le jour du printemps
-
8a+  
 Septi√®me Sceau 
94Gibson les (freres) Paul
-
Project  
95Promeneur de minuit7a+ * 
96La m√©tamorphose de narcisse6b * 
97Crépuscule lunaire6a 3
98Labyrinthe5a *3
99Transparence vers le futur6a+ **2
100Grand Large6a+ *3
101Epitaphe6a+ **2
102Bactriane6a+ **2
103Le septième sceau6c **2
104Un autre monde6a *2
105Digitaline6a * 
106Le principe de la fin6a+ * 
107El√©gie fun√®bre6b * 
 T√©n√©r√© 
109Alizari6b  
110T√©n√©r√©6c ** 
111Infinitude7a * 
112Floril√®ge6b+ ** 
113Barkhane7b * 
114Murmure du d√©sert6a+ * 
115Le pendule de Foucault6b * 
116Antin√©a6a+ * 
117Calme4a * 
118Rose des sables6a * 
 Bais√© Vol√© 
120Le chemin des écoliers6a *3
121Geneviève5c **4
122Baisé Volé5c **5
123Murtine5a **6
124Apnée réflexe6b+ **1
125Sybarites s'abstenir6a **2
126Au del√† du fleuve7a+ ** 
127O√Ļ ca m'a men√© l'√©den?7c  
128Et sous les arbres6c * 
129O√Ļ est la lune?6c * 
13014 juillet 19865a **3
131Millefleurs5a **3
132Le poids des ans6c * 
133Expostress6a **1
134Fl√Ľte de Krishna5c ***9
135Les 5 puissances6b **5
136L'austérité de Brahma5a **2
137Bhagavatam6a+ **1
138Les védas6c ***1
139Gopinatha6b+ ** 
 Soleil Noir 
141Le plomb, le but et le mutant7a+ *** 
142Les 3 chez Chantoisel7b *** 
143Lorsque tu me liras7b+ ** 
144Quai. 987a+ **1
145C'est √† prendre ou √† laisser!7b ** 
146Le souvenir, le savoir et l'oubli7b *** 
147Saveur du soir6c+ ** 
148Pulsion d'un jour6a ***3
149Salade de style6c ***3
150Old power generation
-
Project  
151Soleil noir7a ***1
152Canticum sacrum8b *** 
 Chico Mendes 
154Mouvement fauve7c+ *** 
155R√™ve de Vishnu6c ** 
156Céline6c ***1
157Ars longa vita brevis7a ***1
158Jalousies7a+ ** 
159Oh pap√©, c'est ugolin!6c+ ** 
160La√©titia (gauche)7a+ ** 
161La√©titia (droite)6a * 
162Tamponnoir brisé6a+ ***1
163Courrier d'Autriche6b+ ** 
164Lumi√®re du vitrail7b * 
165Mauvais go√Ľt7c+ ** 
166Danse de Shiva7b+ * 
167Mulholland Drive8a+ ** 
168Les belles id√©es de chico mendes7b+ *** 
169Taratata7a ** 
170Le X6b+ ** 
171Deux temps, trois mouvements6b+ * 
172Avant leurre5a *1
173Sign√© relax5c * 
174Double Dose6b+ * 
175La confr√©rie du souffle8a+  
 Piece en Trois Actes 
177S√©rie noire5a * 
178Zig zag5a * 
179Bas les pattes5a * 
180Patou4a *1
181Urgostyle6a * 
182Le temps est assassin7b * 
183Longue attente7b * 
184Primate √©gar√©6a+ ** 
185Reeves de l'espace7c ** 
186Hyp√©rion7c+ ** 
187Endymion8a+ ** 
188Check Point Charlie8a+ *** 
189Russan pour sang8a ***1
190Pi√®ce en trois actes7c ** 
191Small Crack7a * 
192Saccanagem7a+ * 
193150 piques6c+ * 
194Varsoth√©rapie7b ** 
 Moi Vouloir Toit 
196Concentr√© de tomates8a+ *** 
197Futur au pr√©sident8a+ *** 
198Autoporteuse8a *** 
199Autoportrait8a+ ** 
200Octographe8b ** 
201Au bout du monde
-
Project  
202Vers la lumi√®re6c ** 
203Quand tu fumes du shit, tu sais plus vraiment ce que tu fais8a+  
204Poule pondeuse
-
8a  
205Napalm Death in Vegas
-
Project  
206Roubignolles8b *** 
207La confusion du genre
-
Project  
208Les yeux plus gros que le ventre
-
Project  
209Connexion automne-hiver8a+ *** 
210Moi vouloir toit8a *** 
211Le franc toit sournois
-
Project  
 Lucifer 
213Tournoi d'√©checs8c *** 
214Plus X8b+ *** 
215Kupulos NimbusProject  
216Gros sexe non d√©sir√©8a *** 
217Les dix mouvements8b *** 
218Une nympho √† v√©rifier7c+  
219Rien que pour toi6c **1
220Les yeux de Lucifer6a ** 
221Eclipse6a+ *1
222Le temps d'un sourire6a+ *1
223Grain de folie6a+ *1
224Ergonome6a+ *1
225Micromicon6b * 
226Tagazou6b *1
227Temps imaginaire6c *1
228Lycaon7a+ *2
 Maelstrom 
230Nenni5a **1
231Orph√©e6b * 
232R√©gime sensuel7a+ * 
233Retraite Anticipée6b+ *1
234Encore une fois6c *2
235Calgon7a+ ** 
236Arrampicatopith√®que6b * 
237Karakul6c * 
238Samarcande7a+ *4
239Prudence7b * 
240Casamance7b+ ***4
241Tabasco7c *** 
242Tire-jus7c+ ** 
243Loco motivée7a+ 4
244Footoof6c 3
245Quart de siècle8a ***5
246Macumba7c ***7
247Maelstrom8a ***3
248Tractopelle7c+ ***3
249Pink Panther8a+ *** 
250Eau de colonne8a+ ***1
251Pipeline8a ***2
252Scoliose8a **2
253Tube √† essais8a * 
254Décadence7a+ ***8
255Lola7b+ * 
256Rouge total7a+ **1
257Les portes du chaos6c ***9
258La forge du diable6c+ **4
259Attention fragile7a+ * 
260Zénith6c+ ***1
261Prisonnier de l'inutile7c  
262O√ļ l'horizon prend fin7b+  
263Russan avant J-C7c+ ** 
264La ruse du nain ail√©8b * 
265Unknown?  
266Incertain voyage6c+  
 Babylon 
268Au seuil de l'univers6a **2
269Le cancer infernal de la fuite8a  
270Le blues de Camille6b+ ** 
271Acceptez ma l√©gende6c+ * 
272Les tournesols6c+ ** 
273L'orifice prodigue7c+ ** 
274Babylone8a ** 
275Vice de pute7c * 
276Kitch Lorraine7c+ * 
277SDF7c * 
278Tintin et l'oreille recoll√©e7c+ * 
279Commedia dell'arqu√©e8a ** 
280Imbroglio7c * 
281Ha√ģku8a * 
282Petit d√©jeuner7b * 
283Mascarade7b+ * 
284Tox frot7a * 
285Tox frot droite6b 1
286Amuse-guele5c  
287Casse-cro√Ľte5c  

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