Climbs 27
Rocktype Granite
Altitude 649m a.s.l
Faces S

Claudio styling up the delicate rising traverse at the end of P1 © Dr Toph

Crag features

Sunny crag of high quality golden granite, with climbs up to 4 pitches. The main area was originally an alpine training area, so all the routes were originally climbed with pitons and trad. Around 2004 the main area was fully bolted, but the crackline features remain perfectly protectable. The 'area trad' to the left remains unbolted, with 11 single pitch routes, but largely the rock is not of such good quality.

Gets very hot in the summer, so good for a cloudy day, although the mountain wind keeps the top cool.

Descent is generally by abseil (double 60m ropes)

Approach notes

Park in Borgone Susa (or take the train to there). Follow via Florio across the railway uphill then take a right onto Via Chiantusello. After a set of hairpin bends park by a barrier (3 parking spaces marked) and walk up the lane directly uphill, then the marked trail to the crag. 20 mins.

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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Sector Trad
2 Il Segreto Di Pulcinella E2 5c  
3 Fat Fingers E3 6a  
4 Isi E1 5b **  
5 Ivy
6 Via Degli Oppressi E1 5a  
7 New Trad Generation E3 5b  
8 Occhio Alla Penna!
9 Universi Paralleli
E1 5a  
10 Nuova Osessione
E2 5b  
Climb name Grade
11 L'Improvvazione
E1 5a  
12 Micro-Mega E4 6a  
  Main Buttress
14 Primo Diedro 5c  
15 Ursus 6c+  
16 Secondo Diedro 6a+  
17 Terzo diedro 6a  
18 Dica 33 6b  
19 Cristalli di Roccia 6c  
20 Diedro della Dulfer 6a *** 1
Climb name Grade
21 Amigos 7a+  
22 Via Centrale 6b+  
23 Cactus Smeraldini 6c  
24 Tin Tin
25 Odeon 6c *** 1
26 Ammutinati del Bounty 6c+  
27 Via Del Topo 6b+  
28 Vandalo
29 Spigolo Vareno 5c  

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