Climbs 203
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 117m a.s.l
Faces N

Crag features

A short, but interesting crag consisting of a two kilometre-long fin of rock, with one face pointing north and the other south. The climbing on Mouries Nord is mostly technical wall-climbing, with pitches around the 20m length. The crag is very family-friendly, in particular, the Prairie sector at the east end of the crag has a wide, open grassy-meadow at its base - ideal for a relaxed family-day. Many of the easier routes are now quite polished, so expect to have a slippery time on some. Being north-facing, this side is a good place to come to escape the sun, and logically, is not somewhere you'd naturally head if it's cold. Consisting of a fin of rock, the routes have no rock above them to cause seepage, and so could be worth a look if it has been raining and other places are seeping. 

The south side of the fin is the place to head in winter and for some easier sectors. It is fully covered in the local guide. It provides a sunny contrast with some impressive slabby walls and many  easier routes than Nord.

N.B. The sectors are listed  L to R for Nord (the reverse of the normal approach and the local guide which goes R to L ) and the routes on those sectors are listed L to R. On Sud the sectors are listed R to L and the routes from L to R. Bonkers or what? The other bummer is that many of the routes on the Sud don't have names.

I've taken the liberty of rearranging sector(s) Arlesian and Gamma Globulin on the Sud side as the local guide is confusing to say the least.

 

Approach notes

 For Mouries Nord from the centre of the town of Mouriès (where the Tourist Information office is situated), head north along Cours Paul Revoil - it soon becomes Avenue des Alpilles. Turn left onto Route de Servanes and follow this out of town, passing a turning on the right to the golf course. Soon, the road turns sharp left then sharp right, and in 150m a track leads off to the right (sometimes floods) to a small car-park. Park here (or on the main road if the car park is full) and follow the track along the base of the north side of the crag to reach the climbing. The first few walls are short, polished, and not included - it gets a lot better further along.

For Mouries Sud take the D24 (signposted Les Eygalieres) until the road makes a sharp turn R. Follow a track alongside an avenue of Cyprus trees. Park on the L as the track enters woods and a path heads up left to the rocks.

Follow the path up towards the ridge for 100m then fork L along a smaller path (intermittent blue painted 'climbers' and cairns) contouring the hillside for 550m. Arriving at a grassy bay sector Dalle A Minos is on the R of the bay and the impressive sector Arlesian is 100m further (DON'T touch the ruined walls beneath!). Gamma Globulin is over a 'col' to the L.

 

Access Advice

Between June and the end of September you should check if access is allowed at:

http://www.bouches-du-rhone.pref.gouv.fr/

Rockfax App

Available in the Rockfax App

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Guidebooks

France : Languedoc-Roussillon

The third book in the Rockfax France series covers the extensive and fertile climbing area west of the author's previous guide to Haute Provence. The areas covered largely surround the beautiful Parc National des Cévennes, but also includes crags that are close to the cities of Nimes and Avignon.
More info
More Guidebooks:
Escalade Les Alpilles (2010)

Out of print:
Found the so called easier grade routes at Sector Java extremely sustained and undergraded. Rayons de lune has got to be harder than 5c (5+). On a British crag it would get E3 5c.
Pencarth - 21/Oct/14
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  *Mouriès Nord*
  Prairie
3 Invitation au voyage 5c * 5
4 Quinsi, viens ici 5a * 1
5 Pilier des mines direct 6b * 3
6 Souffle doucer 6c ** 1
7 Du rififi sur les alpilles 6a+ * 5
8 Vol du nuit 7a **  
9 L'oreille en coin 7a **  
10 Le pion 7a **  
11 Brouillard de violence 6b ** 5
12 Le mandarin orgueilleux 6b * 1
13 Vol de jour 7a **  
14 La saison des amours 7b **  
15 Du brut pour les brutes 6c *** 7
16 Du glucose pour noémie 7b ** 1
17 Un doux câlin 7b **  
18 Zoom avant 7a *  
19 Bonjour le soleil 6a 4
20 Erreur médiatique 6b 1
21 Quand tu veux, tu démarres 5a 4
22 Via velpa 5c 2
23 Mefi 4c 6
24 Unnamed 4c 3
25 Tendre douceur 4a 4
26 Révolution permanente 5a  
27 Tintin au niger 5a 2
28 Le corbeau solitaire 4a 5
29 Canyon Street 5c  
30 Black Out 6a+  
31 A voile et à vapeur 6c 1
32 Divergences 7a 1
33 Prélude à la lune 5c  
34 Quatre pas dans l'étrange 5c  
35 Luigi le moineau 6b 4
36 Chemin du paradis 6b 6
37 Bal à nuit 6b 2
38 Un royaume vous attend 6c 1
39 BCBG 7b  
40 Nuits câlines 7c  
41 Les sucettes à l'anis 7a 1
42 Gloubi boulga 6b 4
43 Les ours 5c 3
44 En voiture Simone 7b  
45 Grosse brute technique 6c  
46 La ballade d'arlequin 6a 1
47 Bivouac sur la lune 6c 2
48 Le sourire des crabes 3a 1
49 Oradour sur glane 6c  
50 Michel stupéfiant 6c 1
51 Expresso Love 7b+  
  Mur du Cœur
53 Docteur Octopus 7b *  
54 La crise du propriétaire 7c *  
55 Le cœur est un chasseur solitaire 8a **  
56 Magie Blanche 8b+ *  
57 Dieu ne veut pas mourir 7c *  
58 Laissez-le dire 7b+ *  
59 La vie en couleur 7a  
60 Charybde et Scylla 6c **  
61 Saint Firmin 7c+ **  
62 Le fluide enchanté 8b **  
63 Le voyageur imprudent 8a **  
64 Et le diable hurla de joie 7a  
65 Le temple du soleil 7a+ *  
66 Un monde si noir 7a+ *  
67 Rêve de singe 7b+ ** 1
68 Le vent du nord 7c **  
69 Felicitade 7c **  
70 Le défi générique 7a+ **  
71 Les jeux de la tentation 8a+ **  
72 Mourir au hasard 7c **  
73 Métro pour l'enfer 7a **  
74 K.O. en 9 rounds 7a **  
Climb name Grade
75 Unknown 23 1  
76 Les petites douceurs de la vie 7c+  
  Tranche de Vie
78 Sans queue ni tête 6b *  
79 Toutes griffes dehors 7b *  
80 La feuille d'automne 6a * 6
81 5'eme avenue 7b+ **  
82 Pour qui sonne le glas 6c *** 2
83 Piqué au vif 6c *** 1
84 Big-mac 7b **  
85 Au bout du monde 7c ***  
86 Ceux qui vont mourir te saluent 7b+ ***  
87 Super frite 7a **  
88 Chronique martienne 7a *** 1
89 Tranche de vie 6c *** 6
90 Bisous dans le cou 6c **  
91 Version intégrale 6c ***  
92 Coup de pied dans le cul 6c **  
93 Les yeux verts de l'été 6b ** 2
94 Sans importance 6a+ * 2
  Fleur de Rocaille
96 Alcool de bois 6a+ *  
97 Allo Maman Bobo 7a+ *  
98 Fleurs de rocaille 7c *  
99 Liqueur de métal 7a * 2
100 Equinoxes d'or 6b ** 2
101 Futile idée 6b ** 5
  Java
103 On peut cogner chef? 6c *  
104 Chasseur de miel 7a *  
105 Vientos de pueblo 6c+ ** 2
106 Grand silence frisé 6b ** 9
107 Bateau ivre 6b+ **  
108 Java du diable 6a * 3
109 Sentimental bourreau 6a+ * 1
110 Le petit lapin bleu 6a ** 4
111 Je suis une nuit d'été 6a * 2
112 La petite demande 5c 1
113 Kazanbur 6a 3
114 Hors la loi 6a 1
115 Zidi 6a *  
116 Serious moon lite 6a * 1
117 Rayons de lune 5c * 2
118 Version originale 6a ** 3
119 Verdure et discorde 5c ** 6
120 Ouistiti song 6a * 2
121 Le berceau du chat 6a * 1
122 Deux couettes et des lunettes 6a  
123 Sois sage et tais-toi 6a *  
124 Dieux existe 5c * 1
125 Je ne suis rencontré 5c * 4
126 La der des der 5c * 1
  *Mouriès Sud*
  Dalle a Minos
129 Dalle a Minos A
-
3b  
130 Dalle a Minos B 3a 1
131 Dalle a Minos C
-
3b  
132 Dalle a Minos D
-
3a 1
133 Dalle a Minos E
-
3a 1
  Arlesian
135 Mon Lit Sur La Lune
-
5b  
136 Johnny Fais Moi Mal 4a 1
137 C'est moi qui T'assure
-
5a  
138 Fortaleza
-
6a 1
139 Escapades
-
5c  
140 Arlesian way of life
-
5c 1
141 Mostaganem
-
5c 1
142 Tiens bon la rampe
-
6a+ 2
143 Salle De Bain
-
6b  
144 Mariotte bout filtre
-
6a+ 4
145 Quasimodo
-
7a 1
146 Mets ton doigt ou j'ai mon doigt
-
6c 1
147 Etat d'urgence
-
6b 2
148 SOS Amor
-
7a  
Climb name Grade
  Gamma Globuline
150 Les oiseaux du soucis
-
6a  
151 Gammo Globuline
-
6b 2
152 Luna Parck
-
6b  
153 Au bon soleil
-
6b+ 1
154 Herbe Folle
-
5b 1
155 Raaa lovely
-
5b  
156 Candomble
-
5a  
  Bleriotte
158 Hachichin
-
5c  
159 Coco snif
-
6a 1
160 Bleriotte
-
5c 1
161 Scorpionieus
-
6a 2
162 Esquimotage bordillos
-
6a  
163 Glumule
-
6a  
164 Tricholum terreux
-
5b  
165 L'ami Zantrop
-
4c 1
166 Dernier bol
-
3a 1
  Après-midi de Chien
168 Avane
-
6a+  
169 Au delà de cette limite votre ticket n'est plus valable
-
6a 4
170 Billiverdine
-
5c 3
171 Démons et merveilles
-
6b+ 5
172 L'homme tombe du ciel
-
7b  
173 Coup de cymbale
-
7c+  
174 La vie en dose
-
7b  
175 Après-midi de chien
-
6c 3
176 Rien à foot
-
6c 5
177 Polochon blues
-
6a+ 1
178 White mic mac
-
6a 2
179 Pluie rouge
-
6a 2
  Tamalou
181 Le yeti la haut
-
5c  
182 La belle histoire
-
6b 1
183 Caresse pour tes petits tetons
-
6b 2
184 Goupil main rouge
-
6b 1
185 Les gens du voyage
-
6b  
186 Tamalou
-
5c  
187 L'inconnue
-
6a 1
188 Perte et profit
-
6c+ 1
189 Gueule d'enfer
-
6c 1
190 Vais seaux de Pierre
-
6a  
191 Rubrique a bras
-
6a 2
192 Récalcitrouille
-
6b+ 2
193 Croquemitouffle
-
6a+ 2
  La Vie en Rose
195 (A)
-
5a 1
196 Ploum ploum
-
5a  
197 Tequila boum boum
-
5c 1
198 Casse-bonbons
-
5c  
199 La vie en rose
-
5c  
200 Petite lea
-
6a  
  Dalle d'Initiation
202 Initiation A
-
4b  
203 Initiation B
-
5b  
204 C
-
5c  
205 D
-
5c  
206 E
-
5c  
207 F
-
5b  
  Jeunes Loups
209 Tendre coyotte
-
5a  
210 Les jeunes loups
-
6a  
211 Superbe ginette
-
6a  
212 Carthagea
-
5c  
213 Ile au soleil
-
6a+  
  Secteur Perdu
215 L'Ami Du Petit Dijonnais
-
7b  
216 JYL
-
7b+  
217 La Druide et le Gui
-
7c+  
218 Dis-lui Qu'il Est P'tit
-
7a+  
  Unknown
220 Clodi clodo
-
6a 1
221 Igrene
-
4a * 2
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

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