Climbs 43
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 107m a.s.l
Faces SW

Rory crushing © dan23584

Crag features

South west facing limestone roof. If any bats are spotted at the cave please report to crag moderator immediately and make sure to read the access details below! And have fun.

Approach notes

Only from May - September.

Access:

Park as for Doward Campsite car park. DO NOT DRIVE DOWN TO BIBLINS CAMPSITE, PARK AND WALK PAST GREEN BARIER.

DO NOT DRIVE PAST GREEN BARRIER. (Driving past the green barrier could stop ambulances from reaching Biblins Campsite which is very very bad!)

Walk downhill past a low green barrier and then straight into the woods. Go down past the quarry on the right, keep going down in till the main path goes off right, and you will see a slightly rocky path in front of you, follow this down until you reach some limestone "steps", scramble down and the cave will be on the left.

DO NOT VEAR FROM PATH OR REMOVE ANY VEGITATION!.

Natural England have been great to work with in unbanning the cave for bouldering here, however there are many RULES THAT MUST BE STUCK TO, or the cave will be banned again almost instantly.

Rules:

1.Bouldering only! No gear, no routes, no bolts, no top roping.

2. No removal of any vegetation no matter how minimal, with no exceptions what so ever. This is a nature conservation site and an SSSI (site of special scientific interest) so although a plant or tree may look ordinary, some of them are the only know locations in the country.

3.Only allowed to climb from May - September each year because of possible hibernating bats. There are no bats currently present in the cave but if you see any please report to crag moderator (James Squire) immediately.

4. Stick to the paths (see access details), no cutting corners or walking off on tangents. Try and avoid stepping on plants or ferns, or snapping twigs off trees.

5. Stick to the cave area and walls either side, as this is the only area unbanned, do not climb in Arthurs Cave which is a tourist attraction about 500m from this cave.

6.General bouldering rules e.g. don't drop litter etc. http://www.climbingworks.com/

Guidebooks

No guides found for this crag

Yes! Sorry for the delay.
Beastly Squirrel - 31/May/15
is it open yet?
peaches69 - 05/May/15
Still banned until further notice!
Beastly Squirrel - 03/May/15
Is the ban lifted yet?
peaches69 - 03/May/15
Had a corking few sessions here now. Roll on next May. It's fab having a decent crimpy cave to play in all summer! The only problem is that I've got to try to remember my beta for all the problems I've been working but not done.
Joyce - 01/Oct/14
I noticed 2 bats at the back of the cave today so the crag is being banned 2 days early. Hope this doesn't effect anyone's plans. Please don't climb here until it is unbanned (possibly next may). Thanks everyone for an awesome season.
Beastly Squirrel - 28/Sep/14
People have been bivvying and probably lighting fires in the cave for donkeys years.
Mark Davies PK - 04/Sep/14
Thanks AMorris for letting me know. I am 99% certain it was not a climber with the strict access restrictions. I have heard that people from the campsite have walked up to the cave a light a fire previously. I will contact campsite to ask if this can stop. If this was a climber and you're reading this then please don't do this again as it is a very sensitive area, cheers, James.
Beastly Squirrel - 01/Sep/14
someone has built a fire under the mouth of the cave, resulting in a large ash pile (as if the place needed more dust) and a soot blackened wall. Although there is no indication that it was climbers, it is likely to have been, which given the restrictions on the cave seems like a pretty silly idea. We want to keep this place open for climbing for the foreseeable future and I can't imagine building fires is going to help us keep landowners on side... use your brain guys...
AMorris - 31/Aug/14
Thanks James
brices - 22/Aug/14
1st May - 30th September.
Beastly Squirrel - 19/Aug/14
Can you confirm the access agreement is it till the beginning or end of September. Cheers
brices - 17/Aug/14
Thanks for being so appreciative guys. Just one thing to say is that no one should be driving past the green barrier. Park in Doward campsite and walk to crag past green barrier, please don't drive down to Biblins campsite as there was one very polite man who reported a car getting in the way of children's camping as they didn't read access notes attached. Happy climbing.
Beastly Squirrel - 07/Aug/14
Agree with Joyce, nice one James, can't have been easy getting access sorted, great location with plenty of potential for more! If only I could boulder 8b that line looks amazing!
tombeasley - 19/May/14
James, thanks for sorting the access to this crag and bringing it to our attention. I visited for the first time today and loved it. Very excited about going back!
Joyce - 18/May/14
I'm gunna try and get one made soon but a bit busy atm.
Beastly Squirrel - 08/May/14
Any one have a topo?
EliC - 08/May/14
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Left Wall
2 Freshly Squeezed f7B+ *** 11
3 School of Burl f7B * 28
4 New School Old School f6C+ 47
5 School's Out for Summer f7A+ * 27
6 Pop for the Top f7A *** 88
7 Rock the Kasbah f7A+ *** 36
8 Pop for Gaskins f7A+ * 27
9 Rock for Gaskins f7B ** 17
10 Pop for the Bulge f7A+ 34
11 Pop For The Bigger Bulge f7B+ 1
12 Mexican Radio * f7B ** 1
13 Pussy Whipped * f7A+ 1
14 Lunch Break *
-
f6C+ 2
  Cave Roof
16 Bulging Top f7A 19
17 The Bulge f7A ** 106
18 The Bulge RH Start f7A+ *** 44
19 The Bulge Footless f7B 13
20 A Bigger Bulge f7B * 5
21 Peckitt's Traverse f7C *** 61
22 Tears of the Angels f7C+ * 22
23 Angels Extension f8A * 3
24 Godzilla Sit f8B *** 1
25 Godzilla f8A+ *** 9
26 Arch Angels f8A ** 6
27 Bit Bites Again f7C * 13
28 Bat Bites Back f7C+ *** 4
29 Slippery Jem and the Hyenas Den f6A 2
30 WADzilla * f8B *** 2
31 Punter Proof Roof * f7C+ ** 1
  Right Wall
33 Dusty Wall f6A+ 12
34 Warm Up Wall f5+ * 28
35 The Giant's Spine f6A ** 61
36 Dustandjugsandrockandreach f6A 19
37 Jet Stream Project f8B ? 1
38 Surfing The Wave f6C ** 22
39 Crispy's Roof * f7C ** 8
40 Crispy Cream (stand) * f7B+ * 2
41 Crispy Cream * f7C+ 1
42 School of Swing * f7A+ * 13
43 Arch angels extention f8A+ ** 1
44 Jack's Crack * f6C+ ** 1
45 School of Grrl f7B+ *** 1
46 Angels Extension High f7C+ ** 1
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Beastly Squirrel