Climbs 58
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 326m a.s.l
Faces NE

Stephen Horne climbing the superb and sustained Dimension Hit (7a) on the shady north-facing wall of Grau des Ruc. © Alan James

Crag features

This set of crags is situated up the Lluc road from Selva and Les Perxes. The main attraction is the superb north-facing wall of Grau des Ruc which offers some brilliant steep climbs in the 6c to 8a and above range. It does have an awkward approach but the effort is more than rewarded when you get to the crag. Additionally there are two other less interesting sectors; one roadside wall which looks good but it only partially developed and suffers from bust road noise; and one very steep cave with a few hard routes only. Technically these last two crags are known as S. de la Bella Donna but we have combined them all here into one listing since the parking spot is the same.

The crags mostly face north or northeast and give plenty of shade when it is hot. The sun lingers longer on Bella Donna Aparcamiento and Grau des Ruc Dreta. There may be some seepage after rain but this is unlikely to be too bad. Grau des Ruc and Es Salt will give dry climbing in the rain.

Approach notes

The crags are reached by following the Ma-2130 from Inca towards Lluc. Drive through Selva and follow the road through Caimari and past the Les Perxes crags. Continue for around 6km to a large cutting on a bend (this is around 200m after the 12km post on the roadside). Park just after the cutting underneath Bella Donna - Aparcamiento.

Es Salt - Walk back towards the cutting and find a steep via ferrata on the left. Go down this and follow a very vague path dowards and around to the cave.

Grau des Ruc - Walk back down the road through the cutting and turn immediately left after the cutting where there is a small cairn visible. Follow these cairns carefully steeply downwards over sharp rock for 15 mins until a steep down climb with ropes and metal rungs leads to the large crag.

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Guidebooks

Spain : Mallorca

The main guidebook to the climbing on the island for the last 20 years has been published by Rockfax and this new 2016 edition adds to this legacy with another blockbusting volume for the sun-seeking climber. The sport climbing is being written by Alan James and Mark Glaister, and the deep water soloing section is being written by Daimon Beail.
More info
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Bella Donna Aparcamiento
2 Project Sabor salido ?  
3 Coliflor women 6c **  
4 Realidad paralela 7b **  
5 Pasos de rellero 7c+ *  
6 Es salt 7b *  
7 Baixem una estrella 6b *** 2
8 Decota decotador 7c *  
9 Tulipan 7a *  
10 Quint 6a  
  Es Salt
12 Superferret 7a+ **  
13 Kilometre 13 7b+ *  
14 De malas a peor 7b+ **  
15 Hotel glamour 8b ***  
16 El fari aparca 8a+ ***  
17 Papi chulo 7c ***  
18 Santa Bush 7b **  
19 Poda d'altura 7a+  
  Sector Esquerra
21 Porcona 6c *  
22 El fingidor d'orgasmes 6c ** 7
23 Las grupis 6c+ **  
24 Na curta 7a ** 4
25 Aixi es maten 7a+ *** 5
26 Aixi Direct ?  
27 Decision Hit 7a+ *** 12
28 Gold Single Traverse 8a **  
29 Precision milimetrica 7c *** 2
30 Vida facil 7c+ *  
31 Agresio fisica 7c **  
32 Tira que ve peix 7b+ **  
33 R.line 7a+ *  
34 Bingo 7c *  
35 Siracusa mon amour 6c+ *  
36 Zaratrusta 7c+ ***  
37 Ariestocrata 8a+ **  
38 Qui tub retub 8a+ ***  
39 Ingravito ?  
40 Calladita estas mas guapa 8a ***  
41 Efecto mariposa 8a ***  
42 El justciero 7c ***  
43 Moscos fora 7c ***  
44 Te mataras 7c **  
45 Es grau des ruc 7b+ *** 1
46 Skiasical 7c+ *  
47 Coquito ergo sum 8a *  
48 Remate final 7b+ *  
49 Tramontana 7b **  
  Sector Dreta
51 El somriure de la bruixa 7a+ *  
52 Capiacua 7a+ **  
53 Let's deux 7a+ **  
54 No country for plafoneros 7b **  
55 Tia aina 7c+ **  
56 Project Colateral ?  
57 Sobrasada power 8a *  
58 A golpe de gas 7c *  
59 Perdiuota 6c+ *** 2
60 Escalfament 7b ***  
61 Rallito 7b **  
62 Tongo mongui 7a **  
  Routes Added from Rockfax Book

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Alan James - UKC and UKH