Climbs 21
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 195m a.s.l
Faces S

Nic Bassnett on the fingery classic of Jota jota (6b) at Calvià. © Mike Hutton

Crag features

Hidden away in a tree infested gorge, close to the town of Calvia, is a little wall which offers some excellent slab and wall climbing. The crag is beautifully situated and very friendly, except perhaps on your finger tips!
The routes tend to be slabby but the crag steepens towards its left hand side offering some more sustained and steeper pitches.

Being situated in a woody valley, the crag is very sheltered in cold or windy weather, however this means it is also a sun trap in hot weather.

Approach notes

Leave Palma westwards on the motorway, towards Andratx. At the the Calvia junction follow the road towards Calvia village. Just before Calvia is reached take a right down a road signed "Col.legi Public" which bypasses the town. At the end of the road turn right and after 2km you will pass a rough gate on the left, just past a house called "San Boronat". A layby with room for 2 cars is found just after this on a bend. Negotiate the gate carefully and follow a well worn path for 75m then bear leftwards into the trees. (Approx 10 mins from the car layby).

Access Advice

There have been access problems at this crag in the past, hopefully these problems have now been solved and access should now be allowed. However, if you are approached and asked to leave then please do so.

Rockfax App

Available in the Rockfax App

The Rockfax App brings together all the Rockfax climbing information with UKC logbooks and presents it into a user-friendly package for use on Apple iOS devices (Android version to follow).


Guidebooks

Spain : Mallorca

The main guidebook to the climbing on the island for the last 20 years has been published by Rockfax and this new 2016 edition adds to this legacy with another blockbusting volume for the sun-seeking climber. The sport climbing is being written by Alan James and Mark Glaister, and the deep water soloing section is being written by Daimon Beail.
More info
Arrived at the parking at 11.00, still aimlessly bashing through the woods at 15.00; went home with ragged legs and no ticks. Where is it?
Climbster - 13/Mar/15
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
1 Semen Semidesnatado
-
6b+ * 1
2 Geronimo HVS 5a 2
3 Windjammer 6a ** 24
4 No Cal Senior Fiscal 5c ** 29
5 Chanco 6a+ ** 20
6 Perona 6c *** 19
7 Tirili 6b ** 14
8 Saque Mate 6c *** 9
9 Jota Jota 6b *** 39
10 Tu Polla me Enrolla 6a+ *** 58
11 Batakalofis 5c ** 44
12 Caguerra Perpetua 5c ** 61
13 Extrafina 6a+ ** 32
14 Weird Tree 5c * 35
15 Pinchito Moruno 5c * 45
16 El Ultimo de la Fila 6a ** 61
17 Calentura invernal 5c ** 99
18 Filas Pipas 6a+ ** 25
19 Primera Experienca 4c ** 89
20 New 5 5a * 14
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Matt Smith