Climbs 190
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 510m a.s.l
Faces SE

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Tricky little number.......... © richard kirby

Crag features

A great set of crags in a sunny setting tucked away in the hills a few miles away from the hustle and bustle of the coast. There are half a dozen developed cliffs, and a great variety of climbing from short and slabby to steeply overhanging, and even some mini multi-pitch routes too. A good selection of the most popular routes is described, from off-vertical face-climbing on the Chez Pierrot to the popular (and hard!) tufa-wrestling routes of La Grotte.

The grey cliffs are sunny and rapid drying, and high enough to catch a bit of wind. A good winter venue and a possible location on cooler cloudy summer-days too. The caves provide some shelter from the sun and the rain, but seep in winter. 

Approach notes

The easiest approach is from La Turbie, which is just off the A8 motorway, junction 56 for Monaco. In the centre of La Turbie, turn north onto Route du Mont Agel (signed 'Peille') from the D2564 and follow this uphill (narrow in places) going left at the first hairpin bend (instead of going straight towards the golf course). For Derriere le Bloc, Chez Pierrot, Chez Grand Bernard, Baus Roux and La Bombe: turn left after 5.3km (where the road is very straight and there is a sign for "Dechetterie" - which means "Rubbish Tip"). Either park here on the left or continue downhill and round the bend (Tip on the right) and park on the righjt.From the south end of the car park, follow the footpath downhill for about 10 mins. About 100m after crossing the bridge a path on the right leads up towards the crags. You arrive at Chez Pierrot after approximately 15 mins. There is a much shorter path: from the car park walk past the obvious footpath sign and continue past the 1st house. A small path leads through the trees on the right. This takes you down to join the main footpath just above the bridge.

To reach the parking for Monte-Grosso, La Grotte, Memorial Paul Arene and Chez Petit Bernard, continue along the bendy road for another 2.8km. Just past a right turn (the D22 to Ste Agnes), there is a sharp right bend just as the village of Peille comes into view. Just round this, turn left onto a dirt track. The car park is 100m down here. The well worn path path leads steadily uphill for about 15 mins then downhill for another 10 mins to a junction (cairn) where you must go left for approx 50 m to a gully that leads down between La Grotte and Paul Arene. (If you go straight on at the junction you eventually arrive at Monte-Grosso.) At the bottom of the gully, Paul Arene is on your left and continue round to the right for La Grotte. For Chez Petit Bernard go left past Paul Arene.

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Guidebooks

France : Cote d'Azur

Côte d'Azur covers the famous cliffs of Calanques, Sainte Victoire and the Verdon and also includes some of the great venues around Toulon, the sunniest city in France. Plus there is the popular winter venue of Châteauvert, the less well known Esterel and Châteaudouble area. Add in Saint Jeannet and a selection of cliffs in the Nice area and this will become an essential volume for any climber.
More info
More Guidebooks:
L'Escalade dans les Alpes-Maritimes (2010)
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  La Grotte
2 Toit de rennes 6c *  
3 Le pilier de vannes 6c+ *** 4
4 Cent mille pattes 7b *** 5
5 La croisière s'amuse 8a ***  
6 La discrète 7a+ 6
7 Suksan vanke 7c * 1
8 La femme adultère 7b+ *** 5
9 Inaal ding dingue dong 7c+ ** 1
10 Y'a pas d'arrangement 8a *** 4
11 Y'a pas d'arrangement direct 8a+ *** 1
12 Johnny guitar 7b+ * 3
13 Coup de foudre 7b+ ** 10
14 Paret 7b+ *** 5
15 "Attention, danger"! 8a *  
16 Super croix 8b+ **  
17 Das Boot 8b **  
18 Rue gamma 8c ***  
19 A bout du souffle 8b *** 3
20 Au bout de la rue 8b+ *** 1
21 Le souffle du vizir 8b+ ***  
22 Le bazaar 8b **  
23 Le grand bazaar 8b+ ***  
24 Souffle du ragga 8b+ ***  
25 Au bout de reauleau 8b+ ***  
26 Sans nom 8b+ ***  
27 Batman 7c+ *** 9
28 Vizir 8a+ *** 1
29 Saharagga 8a+ *** 2
30 Dr. Batman 8a+ *** 1
31 Dr. Buttman 8b **  
32 A l'envers à l'endroit 8a+ *** 1
33 Voyage au bout de la nuit 8b *** 1
34 Le corbeau 8a *** 4
35 Tout reste à faire 8a ** 3
36 La violence et le sacré 7b *** 4
37 La guerre du feu 7b *** 12
38 A lucie naon 7a+ ** 4
39 Captain Caverne 7a+ *** 13
40 Goupil 6c *** 16
41 La cinquième colonne 6c+ * 9
42 Mathilde 6b+ ** 9
43 Vague à l'âme 6a *  
44 Porque te vas? 6a+ ** 2
45 À la place du cœur 6b *** 3
46 Mille Yeux 6c **  
47 L'escogriffeur 6b+ **  
48 Huit ça suffit 6c *  
49 Nouvelle voie 1 7c *** 1
50 Nouvelle voie 2 7c *** 1
  Mémorial Paul Arene
52 Sans nom
-
6a+ ***  
53 Crucifix 7b+ **  
54 La vista 7a *** 1
55 Megawatt 7c+ **  
56 Satanas et Diabolo 7a+ **  
57 la trajectoire du vide 7a+ **  
58 Comme elle vient 7b **  
59 Sami 7b+  
60 Scoubidou...bidou 6c+ **  
61 La poussinnette 6c+ **  
62 Krispolls 6b *  
63 Quand y en a marre y'a malabar 6b *  
64 Cracote 6b+ **  
65 Candidat albican 6a+ **  
66 Talon aiguille 6a+ ** 7
67 À droite à gauche 6a+ *** 5
Climb name Grade
68 Woodpecker 6b * 2
69 Tout de même 6b *** 9
70 Quoi de neuf docteur 7a *** 6
71 Mensonge romantique 7a *** 5
72 Vérité romanesque 6c+ *** 4
73 Princesse des étoiles 7b *** 4
74 Mémorial Paul Arene 7b *** 4
75 Marcos 7b+ **  
76 Merci les pompiers 7a+ **  
77 Gadjo dilo 7b **  
78 La fracture 7a+ ** 1
79 L'enfant sauvage 6c *  
80 Radio Tarifa 6c **  
81 L'indomptable 7a **  
  Chez Petit Bernard
83 Enculator
-
7b+  
84 Le Rhino C'est Rose
-
6b  
85 Cul Sec 2
-
7a  
86 Un Elephant Ca Trompe Enormement
-
7c+  
87 Il En A Deux Enormes
-
8b  
88 Le Coince Fesses
-
6c  
89 Le Coince Fesses A Gauche
-
7a+  
90 Lache La Puree
-
7a  
91 Wonder Marmotte
-
6b+  
92 Un BacDe Trop
-
6c  
93 Martine N'est Pas Niquaise
-
5c  
  Derrière le Bloc
95 Décimètre 6a+ ** 5
96 Amuse gueule 5c ** 6
97 Mon'tit piton 6b ** 3
98 Faites des pères 6b *** 5
99 Neuf mois pour un rêve 6c *** 4
100 Ueffedeu 6b *** 6
101 A cloche marteau 6b+ *** 2
102 Quoi de neuf docteur 6b *** 3
103 Jacky barre team 6b *** 6
104 Vire illimitée 6b *** 5
105 Urga 6b *** 4
106 Le livre de la jungle 6b+ *** 3
107 Le mystère demeure 6b *** 1
108 Tombe du ciel 6b *** 4
109 Carte blanche 6b *** 7
110 The righteous path 6b+ *** 4
111 Roc ébranlé 7a *** 14
112 Joue de lune 7b+ *** 5
113 Une briz pour deux cap 6c+ *** 9
  Chez Pierrot
115 Chant de florette 7b *** 4
116 Ma Doudou 6b+ *** 6
117 Carottage 6b *** 9
118 Le nyctalope 6b *** 15
119 Axurl beltza 6a+ *** 13
120 Arc-en-ciel 6b+ *** 5
121 Le piege aux 100,000 dards 6c *** 10
122 Epination des mains 6a *** 26
123 Les écailles ont des ailes? 6a *** 20
124 Ça va peillonner 5c *** 19
125 Gad'a pan 6b *** 6
126 Rock a bloc 6a+ ** 2
127 Pour le meilleur et le pire 6c+ ** 3
128 Foupouda 7c ***  
129 Hemeralope 6c+ *** 3
130 Hanna bee 6b+ *** 4
131 Strike 6c *** 3
132 Mistral sanglant 5c ** 2
  Chez Grand Bernard
134 1 6a  
Climb name Grade
135 2 6c  
136 3 6a+  
137 4 7a+ *** 1
138 4 + extension 7b *** 1
139 5
-
7a *** 1
140 6
-
6b ** 1
141 7
-
6b ** 1
142 7 + extension 7b  
143 8
-
6c  
144 8 + Extension 1
-
7a  
145 8 + Extension 2
-
7b+  
146 9
-
6c  
147 9 + Extension
-
7c  
148 10
-
6c ** 1
149 10 + Extension
-
7a+ ** 1
150 11
-
6a  
151 11 + Extension
-
7a+  
152 12 6a  
  Baus Roux
154 Le guêpier 5c * 3
155 La Grande Muraille 6a+ * 1
156 Diou lou faguet 6a+ ** 2
157 Pro cre action 6a *** 9
158 Merguez party 5c *** 13
159 Les p'tits charognards 6a *** 10
160 Voyage éclair 6c+ *** 3
161 M comme puce 6b+ *** 6
162 Besoin de toi 5c *** 9
163 Scorde 5c *** 10
164 Passage à l'acte 5c *** 8
165 Vengo 6a+ ** 2
166 Mon amie la rose 6b *** 9
167 Corbaco baskets 6a *** 6
168 Birdy 6a+ *** 5
169 Pipistrelle 5a * 7
170 Le renard et la belette 6a+ *** 5
171 Pitte fourmigue 5c *** 8
172 Shark 6a+ ** 8
173 Danse entre les clous 6a ** 3
174 Monsieur Bulot 6a+ ** 4
175 Une souris verte 5a ** 4
176 Apolitique 6a ** 1
177 Cul sec 6b+ *** 4
178 Wasa 6a *** 4
179 La paille en queue 7a ** 3
180 La porte du nirvana 6c+ *** 5
181 Confiture de bouse 6c *** 4
182 Dante edo igo 6c *** 2
  La Bombe
184 Octobre rouge 7a+ **  
185 Poppa chubby 8a+ ** 2
186 Nirvana 7a *** 3
187 Scorpio 7b+ ** 1
188 Le petit mulot 7b+ **  
189 Petite puce 7a+ **  
190 Skating Joe 7a **  
  Monte-Grosso
192 Ascension Neotique 6b  
193 Bat batean 7a  
194 Kasumak 6b+  
195 L'engouleven 6a  
196 Un motet pour la quantique 6c+  
197 Atout Roc 6c+  
198 Bertha Gonzales 6b+ 1
199 Le lapin sarde 6b  

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