Climbs 111
Rocktype Granite
Altitude Tidal
Faces SW

Cornwall at it's best. Illustrated Man E2. © Kafoozalem

Crag features

Many excellent single-pitch routes up to 90ft, equally split among all grades. Sheltered as long as there isn't a heavy swell running.

Just a brief update from a visit July 2012 there is a fair amount of choss along the top of the crag including some decent size blocks. A great place though but would defo where a helmet here if there were a few parties about. The crag itself is mainly very sound.

Approach notes

Tidal in some parts, and all affected by heavy swells.

Park at the Porthgwarra car park (turn off the B3315) and follow the tarmac road uphill, to where it reaches the open cliffland: the road curves L and splits. Take the path directly ahead (the L one goes to Chair Ladder) leading along the higher edge of the cliff. After about 1100m you should cross a granite wall. Continue 300m to a curve L at a headland with a perched boulder. Follow the grassy depression down.

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Guidebooks

West Country Climbs

West Country Climbs is a major Rockfax guide to one of the UK’s most celebrated, sunny and diverse climbing regions. The book is fashioned in Rockfax’s award-winning layout and design, and copiously illustrated with action photographs of the climbs and cliffs that reflect the quality and variety of climbing experiences to be had on offer in the UK’s most popular holiday destination - the West Country. This is a selected route and buttress guidebook which covers the best 900 routes from the crags listed below.
More info
Crack In The Sky, Grand Plage and Marisco Striptease all affected by rockfall. Crack In The Sky now shorter and slightly easier. Grand Plage now reported to be E4 6b with a loss in quality. Marisco Striptease suffering minor loss to crux jug probably making it more difficult.
Ian Jones - 13/Apr/15
Very large flake gone from bottom of grande plage as of 16th Feb 2013. Start will be harder now- a guy who shunted it thought 6b.
Bristoldave - 19/Feb/13
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Grand Plage Area
2 Easy Touch
-
HVS 5a  
3 Worried Warrior
-
HVS 5b 1
4 Hampshire Zigzag
-
D 1
5 Hampshire Bypass
-
HS 4b  
6 Crack In The Sky E1 5b ** 156
7 Amen Corner
-
HVS 5a 16
8 Reflections On A Mirror
-
E4 6a/b ** 8
9 Mean Street E4 6a ** 36
10 Arc Of A Diver / Psychosis
-
E4 6a ** 2
11 Sunny Corner Lane E3 5c *** 111
12 Crazy From The Heat
-
E5 6a * 1
13 Birthday Route (Powerflex)
-
E4 6a ** 8
14 Grand Plage E3 6a *** 136
15 Grand Plage (variation)
-
E3 5c *** 9
16 Golden Brown E4 6a *** 25
17 The Consul
-
E4 6a * 3
18 Footless Madness E5 6b *** 13
19 Grand Plague post-rockfall. * E5 6b **  
  Socket Wall Area
21 Geireagle II E2 5b * 46
22 52nd Street
-
E2 5b 4
23 Marisco Striptease E2 5b * 49
24 At Home
-
E5 6a * 3
25 Dog Town
-
E5 6b ** 2
26 Fine and Dandy
-
HVS 5b 10
27 Silence Sleeper
-
E2 5b * 6
28 Carmen
-
E5 6b ** 4
29 Vive La Difference
-
HS 4b 9
30 Credit Squeeze
-
D 17
31 Holiday Tripper E1 5b 20
32 Five Year Itch
-
E3 6b * 3
33 Sock It To Me
-
HVS 5b 12
34 Socket Arete VS 4c * 161
35 Cumbelloe HS 4b * 125
36 Socket Wall S 4b * 221
37 The Lurch
-
VS 4c 3
38 Slant Crack
-
VS 4c 33
39 Smash And Grab
-
E2 5c 12
40 A Touch Of Glass E4 6b ** 16
41 Glass Arete E3 5c ** 76
42 Sleazy Corner VD * 78
43 Spring Squill Salad
-
E5 5c 7
44 Peel Crack HVD ** 264
45 Edge Climb
-
S 4a 18
46 Weekend Treat
-
HS 4b 31
47 Weekend Treat (direct start)
-
VD 1
48 Razor
-
HVS 5a 22
49 The Sewing Machine Man
-
E5 6a * 1
50 Nelson's Eye
-
E1 5a 8
51 The Sigh
-
VS 5a 4
52 The Sigh (variation 1)
-
E3 6a  
53 The Sigh (variation 2)
-
E2 5c  
54 Last Gasp
-
E5 6a  
55 Bottle Throttle
-
E4 6a * 2
  Central Wall
57 Ra HVS 5a ** 106
58 Illustrated Man E2 5b ** 146
59 Dialectic HVS 5b ** 209
60 Dialectic (variation)
-
HVS 5a 1
61 Axis VS 5a ** 243
62 Exodus VS 5a * 32
63 Fourteen Fathoms E2 5c ** 108
64 Relax
-
E2 6a 2
65 Wet Barnacle
-
E3 5c * 18
66 Cruisin' for a Bruisin' E2 5c * 34
67 Big Bad Blues
-
E4 6b *  
68 Kicking Steps
-
HVS 4c 2
69 Atlantic Crossing
-
HVS 5b 1
70 Twisting By The Pool
-
E3 5c 1
71 Crystal Voyager
-
E3 6a  
72 Samphire Wall
-
VD * 2
73 Touchwood
-
S 4a 5
74 Blue
-
HVS 5b 5
75 Recessed Slab Climb
-
VD 35
76 Criss
-
HS 4b 8
77 Iron Cross
-
VS 4c 9
  Southern Platform
79 Niche Wall HS 4b ** 102
80 Sea Wolf HVS 4c * 54
81 Weasle VS 4c ** 36
82 Weasle (variation)
-
VS 4b *  
83 Howlin' Wolf
-
E1 5b  
84 Sea Fox
-
HS 4a 3
85 Pedantics
-
D 3
86 Air Tripper
-
E1 5b * 10
87 Eye Of The Crystal
-
E7 6c * 2
88 the immaculate corner
-
HVS 5a * 3
89 crackline
-
HS 4b 2
90 Mamlik
-
E1 6b  
91 Cometh the Sun
-
E1 6a  
92 Rapido
-
E1 5a 2
93 Edge Climb (Upper Tier)
-
HVS 5a *** 13
94 Chicken Head Crack
-
VD ** 8
95 Hot Wire Fire
-
E7 6b/c  
96 Just Another Inquisition
-
E7 6b 1
97 Taurus the Second
-
S 4b * 3
98 Super Crack (Upper Tier)
-
VS 4c ** 22
99 Great Central Chimney
-
VD * 4
100 Inbetween VD 4
101 Twin Cracks S 5
102 Tower Gully VD 4
103 Fallen Block Crack VD 1
104 Deep Chimney VD 3
105 Sentry Box D 2
106 Between The Sheets E5 6a * 2
107 Angel City (Upper Tier)
-
S 4b 3
108 Scorpion E1 5b 3
109 Up and Running
-
VD 3
110 Hopeless, Upper Tier, Carn Barra VD 2
111 Kickin Steps M 2
112 Edge Street
-
VS 4c 1
113 Illusion E1 5b 5
114 Superdirect (Upper Tier) * VS 4c 3
115 Big Guns * E4 6a 1
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

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