Climbs 113
Rocktype Granite
Altitude 6m a.s.l
Faces SW

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Cornwall at it's best. Illustrated Man E2. © Kafoozalem

Crag features

Many excellent single-pitch routes up to 90ft, equally split among all grades. Sheltered as long as there isn't a heavy swell running.
Just a brief update from a visit July 2012 there is a fair amount of choss along the top of the crag including some decent size blocks. A great place though but would defo where a helmet here if there were a few parties about. The crag itself is mainly very sound.

May 2019 the large pinnacle block on the upper section of Criss, Winged Victory and Niche Wall is gone leaving an obvious scar. Routes not climbed so impact on grades not ascertained.

Approach notes

Tidal in some parts, and all affected by heavy swells.
Park at the Porthgwarra car park (turn off the B3315) and follow the tarmac road uphill, to where it reaches the open cliffland: the road curves L and splits. Take the path directly ahead (the L one goes to Chair Ladder) leading along the higher edge of the cliff. After about 1100m you should cross a granite wall. Continue 300m to a curve L at a headland with a perched boulder. Follow the grassy depression down.

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Guidebooks

West Country Climbs

West Country Climbs is a major Rockfax guide to one of the UK’s most celebrated, sunny and diverse climbing regions. The book is fashioned in Rockfax’s award-winning layout and design, and copiously illustrated with action photographs of the climbs and cliffs that reflect the quality and variety of climbing experiences to be had on offer in the UK’s most popular holiday destination - the West Country. This is a selected route and buttress guidebook which covers the best 900 routes from the crags listed below.
More info
Crack In The Sky, Grand Plage and Marisco Striptease all affected by rockfall. Crack In The Sky now shorter and slightly easier. Grand Plage now reported to be E4 6b with a loss in quality. Marisco Striptease suffering minor loss to crux jug probably making it more difficult.
Ian Jones - 13/Apr/15
Very large flake gone from bottom of grande plage as of 16th Feb 2013. Start will be harder now- a guy who shunted it thought 6b.
Bristoldave - 19/Feb/13
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Grand Plage Area
2 Easy Touch
-
HVS 5a  
3 Worried Warrior
-
HVS 5b 1
4 Hampshire Zigzag
-
D 1
5 Hampshire Bypass
-
HS 4b  
6 Crack In The Sky E1 5b ** 155
7 Amen Corner
-
HVS 5a 18
8 Reflections On A Mirror
-
E4 6a/b ** 8
9 Mean Street E4 6a ** 41
10 Arc Of A Diver / Psychosis
-
E4 6a ** 2
11 Sunny Corner Lane E3 5c *** 117
12 Crazy From The Heat
-
E5 6a * 1
13 Birthday Route (Powerflex)
-
E4 6a ** 9
14 Grand Plage E3 6a *** 133
15 Grand Plage (variation)
-
E3 5c *** 7
16 Golden Brown E4 6a *** 30
17 The Consul
-
E4 6a * 3
18 Footless Madness E5 6b *** 11
19 Grand Plague post-rockfall. * E5 6b **  
20 Grand Plage post-rockfall * E5 6b ** 1
  Socket Wall Area
22 Geireagle II E2 5b * 51
23 52nd Street
-
E2 5b 4
24 Marisco Striptease E2 5b * 59
25 At Home
-
E5 6a * 3
26 Dog Town
-
E5 6b ** 2
27 Fine and Dandy
-
HVS 5b 12
28 Silence Sleeper
-
E2 5b * 6
29 Carmen
-
E5 6b ** 4
30 Vive La Difference
-
HS 4b 9
31 Credit Squeeze
-
D 17
32 Holiday Tripper E1 5b 23
33 Five Year Itch
-
E3 6b * 3
34 Sock It To Me
-
HVS 5b 17
35 Socket Arete VS 4c * 195
36 Cumbelloe HS 4b * 139
37 Socket Wall S 4b * 248
38 The Lurch
-
VS 4c 4
39 Slant Crack
-
VS 4c 40
Climb name Grade
40 Smash And Grab
-
E2 5c 11
41 A Touch Of Glass E4 6b ** 23
42 Glass Arete E3 5c ** 83
43 Sleazy Corner VD * 88
44 Spring Squill Salad
-
E5 5c 7
45 Peel Crack HVD ** 281
46 Edge Climb
-
S 4a 21
47 Weekend Treat
-
HS 4b 34
48 Weekend Treat (direct start)
-
VD 2
49 Razor
-
HVS 5a 25
50 The Sewing Machine Man
-
E5 6a * 4
51 Nelson's Eye
-
E1 5a 9
52 The Sigh
-
VS 5a 4
53 The Sigh (variation 1)
-
E3 6a  
54 The Sigh (variation 2)
-
E2 5c  
55 Last Gasp
-
E5 6a  
56 Bottle Throttle
-
E4 6a * 2
  Central Wall
58 Ra HVS 5a ** 129
59 Illustrated Man E2 5b ** 169
60 Dialectic HVS 5b ** 242
61 Dialectic (variation)
-
HVS 5a 2
62 Axis VS 5a ** 287
63 Exodus VS 5a * 41
64 Fourteen Fathoms E2 5c ** 118
65 Relax
-
E2 6a 2
66 Wet Barnacle
-
E3 5c * 25
67 Cruisin' for a Bruisin' E2 5c * 39
68 Big Bad Blues
-
E4 6b *  
69 Kicking Steps
-
HVS 4c 2
70 Atlantic Crossing
-
HVS 5b 1
71 Twisting By The Pool
-
E3 5c 1
72 Crystal Voyager
-
E3 6a  
73 Samphire Wall
-
VD * 2
74 Touchwood
-
S 4a 7
75 Blue
-
HVS 5b 6
76 Recessed Slab Climb
-
VD 37
77 Criss
-
HS 4b 9
78 Iron Cross
-
VS 4c 9
Climb name Grade
79 Iron Cross variation * none vs 4c *  
  Southern Platform
81 Niche Wall HS 4b ** 120
82 Sea Wolf HVS 4c * 66
83 Weasle VS 4c ** 42
84 Weasle (variation)
-
VS 4b *  
85 Howlin' Wolf
-
E1 5b  
86 Sea Fox
-
HS 4a 3
87 Pedantics
-
D 3
88 Air Tripper
-
E1 5b * 12
89 Eye Of The Crystal
-
E7 6c * 2
90 the immaculate corner
-
HVS 5a * 4
91 crackline
-
HS 4b 2
92 Mamlik
-
E1 6b  
93 Cometh the Sun
-
E1 6a  
94 Rapido
-
E1 5a 2
95 Edge Climb (Upper Tier)
-
HVS 5a *** 16
96 Chicken Head Crack
-
VD ** 21
97 Hot Wire Fire
-
E7 6b/c  
98 Just Another Inquisition
-
E7 6b 1
99 Taurus the Second
-
S 4b * 3
100 Super Crack (Upper Tier)
-
VS 4c ** 38
101 Great Central Chimney
-
VD * 4
102 Inbetween VD 7
103 Twin Cracks S 11
104 Tower Gully VD 4
105 Fallen Block Crack VD 2
106 Deep Chimney VD 3
107 Sentry Box D 2
108 Between The Sheets E5 6a * 2
109 Angel City (Upper Tier)
-
S 4b 3
110 Scorpion E1 5b 5
111 Up and Running
-
VD 3
112 Hopeless, Upper Tier, Carn Barra VD 2
113 Kickin Steps M 2
114 Edge Street
-
VS 4c 1
115 Illusion E1 5b 17
116 Superdirect (Upper Tier) * VS 4c 3
117 Big Guns * E4 6a 1
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

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