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UKClimbing Team

Climbs 401
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 251m a.s.l
Faces all

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Phil Moore coming up pitch 5 of Velebitaski © jim jones

Crag features

Paklenica National Park is a large area in the south of Velebit mountain range where two large canyons cut across the Velebit mountain from the land to the Adriatic sea. The area of the park designated for climbing is the bigger (western) of the two canyons, called Velika Paklenica. Here there are literally hundreds of bolted single-pitch routes as well as hundreds of multi-pitch routes (mostly bolted) up to 400m high. Brilliant, awesome and yet suitable for all from beginners to aspiring Adam Ondras and a great holiday destination for sun loving families too!

The rock is karstic limestone which offers excellent friction, where not polished. Generally the climbs feel quite hard at the grade, especially those in Anica kuk!

More info here and here.

Approach notes

Access to the park is signposted just at the south end of the town of Starigrad. Admission fee (can be payed at the entrance) and is either valid:

- for 1 entrance: costs between £3 and £7 (depending on the season)

- for 3 entrances within 5 days (30 days period is usually tolerated): costs between £5 and £14 (depending on the season)

- for 5 entrances within 7 days (30 days period is usually tolerated): costs between £7 and £21 (depending on the season)

It's well worth the money! Additionally a vehicle entrance is charged between £1 and £2.5 daily (higher price for a large camper, for instance).

Very easy approach to the Klanci area (single-pitch sport routes), complete with a souvenir, food and drinks shop as well as a very nice indoor/outdoor coffee bar which are all set in the live rock of the crag (renovated WW2 tunnels of Josip Broz Tito HQ). The tunnels themselves are well worth a visit (at no extra charge) and they even feature a nice bouldering gym surrounding an educational multimedia centre.

Approach times to multi-pitch routes vary from 1 - 45mins as the routes themselves cover a huge area. Beginings of some more popular routes are marked by triangular plates (name of the route, grade) fixed to the rock. Unfortunately some markings are placed in the wrong place so if something looks wrong please trust the guidebook and your instincts. Some descents can be tricky and taxing if you're not well informed. You should again trust the guidebook and sometimes using a map can be a confidence booster when you eventually find yourself thinking "this can't be it".

Guidebooks

over 45min walk from the cars park following signs to the "Manita-pec" cave to look at this 80meter pinnacle just below the park cave attraction.
steve2006 - 22/Sep/10
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Parkiralište
2 Petronilla
-
6b 1
3 Kagula
-
6b 10
4 Santana
-
6c 5
5 E.T.
-
7a+ 1
6 Banana Split
-
5c 36
7 Stimula
-
7a+  
8 Lu-Lu
-
6b 9
9 Joint
-
6a+ 11
10 Tofi is 20
-
6c 1
  Krokodil
12 Seppi
-
6b+ 2
13 Rasierklinge
-
5c 6
14 Steza Mojstrov
-
6c+  
15 Auskneifer
-
6b 2
16 Aligator
-
6c 1
17 Platoon
-
7c+  
18 Krokodil
-
6b 3
19 Ananass
-
6c+ 1
20 OO
-
6a+ 5
  Auhe
22 Auhe
-
5a 33
23 Wiener Würstchen
-
5a 47
24 Marija
-
3a 21
25 Škorpion
-
4a 37
  Devnjača
27 Čuvarkuća
-
7a+  
  Jupi
29 Jupi
-
6a 16
30 Blutwurst
-
6a+ 2
31 Condor
-
6a+ 2
  Popaj
33 Butter Keks
-
5c 32
34 Oster Keks
-
6a+ 15
35 Crni Gad
-
6b+ 6
36 Inox (Matio)
-
6a+ 8
37 Rapina
-
7a+  
38 Popaj
-
6a+ 2
39 Safety First
-
5c 9
40 Mit Feiner Klinge
-
6b+ 1
  Hram
42 Volos
-
7c  
43 Svantevid
-
7b+  
44 Perun
-
7c+ 1
45 Bugata Marija
-
7c+  
46 Funky Shit
-
8a 3
47 Svarog
-
7b+  
48 Kiborg
-
6c  
49 Gozdni Joža
-
7c+  
50 Jožek
-
7c  
51 Mrakan
-
8a 2
52 Vodan
-
7b 4
53 Gerovit
-
7a 18
54 Morana
-
6c 6
55 Danka
-
5c 10
  Olimp
57 Minerva
-
6a+ 1
58 Had
-
6a 7
59 Zeus
-
6b 8
60 Hera
-
6a+ 1
  Figa
62 Nane
-
4a 49
63 Figa
-
5a 61
64 Mann oder Memme
-
4c 66
65 Palenta
-
4a 10
66 Čokolino
-
4a 9
67 Kovalski
-
3b 9
68 Hello Kitty
-
3b 8
69 Winnie Pooh
-
3a 28
  Veleshit
71 Zekoslav Mrkva
-
4a 17
72 Svemirko
-
4a 21
73 Miki Maus
-
5a 32
74 Veleshit
-
6a+ 19
75 Il Viaggio
-
6a+ 49
76 Reibeisen
-
6a 23
  Lipotica
78 Strije
-
5a 19
79 Celulit
-
5c 14
80 Tripice
-
5a 18
81 Make Up
-
4c 31
  Zhigi & Urli
83 Onofrio
-
6a 17
84 Mascherino
-
6a+ 13
85 Gripa
-
5a 19
86 Nemam Ništa, Socijalni Problem!
-
6a 17
87 Capitan Corragiosi
-
5c 20
  Colibri
89 Magic Moon
-
7a 1
90 Magic Moon - Leva Varianta
-
7b  
91 Colibri
-
6c 2
92 Flori
-
6c  
93 Flash Back
-
6c 4
94 Davidovo Drugo Stanje
-
6c+  
95 Mucachito
-
7b  
96 Present of Nature
-
6c+  
97 Buda Bez Muda
-
6c 2
98 Isar Flimmern
-
6a+ 2
  Hidrogliser
100 Hidrogliser
-
6a 7
101 Radegast
-
6b 10
102 Esseker
-
5c 10
103 Papillon
-
6c 2
104 Vaga Vaga Dum
-
6c 6
105 Toi-toi
-
6a+ 13
  Zava
107 Njofra
-
3a 12
108 Husky
-
3a 21
109 Peter Pan
-
4a 21
110 Bine Maja
-
6c 8
111 Fleissige Villi
-
6a 35
112 Bella
-
6a+ 9
113 Zajcek
-
4c 69
114 Zava
-
4a 94
115 Cuja ti si Bog i Batina!
-
5a 79
116 Cuja ti si Bog!
-
5a 31
117 Onaj Tamo!
-
5a 51
118 Matane ti si Car!
-
6a 55
119 Marina
-
6a 46
120 Zima
-
5c 33
121 Shogooth
-
6c+ 4
122 Kanjon Special 6a+ 28
123 For Trudi
-
6b 6
124 Achtung Steinschlag!
-
6b+ 9
125 WC
-
6b+ 6
126 Vaginalna Manipulacija
-
6a+ 2
127 Jež 5c 11
128 Humping Jack
-
6a+ 3
129 Helena
-
6a+ 6
  Karenin
131 Bloody Marija
-
6b 28
132 Pecena Kokoš
-
5a 27
133 H.S.V.
-
5a 37
134 Yugo 45
-
5a 18
135 La Bamba
-
5a 36
136 Edi
-
5a 35
137 Nasti Put
-
4c 47
138 Bevanda
-
5c 32
139 Over Dub
-
5c 27
140 As
-
5a 19
141 No Dilly Dally
-
6a 24
142 Potres
-
6a 25
143 Kadi si?
-
5c 23
144 Irene's Smile
-
6b 18
145 Karenin
-
6c+ 10
146 Psihoza
-
5a 38
147 Ogulinac
-
5a 23
Climb name Grade
148 Baliban
-
4a 42
149 Marko Marko * 5a 9
  Ljuska
151 E Seguitemi mi Sono Perso
-
6c 1
152 Hare Krishna
-
6a+ 2
153 E dulcis in Fundo
-
6b 1
154 Hugga Wugga
-
6a 11
155 Becki
-
3a 20
156 Via Normale
-
4a 50
157 Aanvallluhhhh
-
6b 22
158 Grafiti 6c+ 3
159 Il Marattoneta
-
8b+  
160 Bez Imena #1
-
5c 8
161 Bez Imena #2
-
5a 13
162 Jastreb
-
5c 1
163 Kobac
-
5b 2
164 Vuga
-
4c 47
165 Kos
-
5a 46
166 Žuna
-
5a 55
167 Orao
-
5c 31
168 Gea
-
4a 33
169 Mia Cara Paolina
-
6a+ 11
170 Adrijanskoga Mora Sirena
-
7b+ 2
  Sindrom
172 Kitajski Sindrom
-
7a+ 1
173 Kineski Sindrom
-
7a  
174 Botanicki Vrt
-
8a+  
175 Kad Legenda Umire
-
7b+ 1
176 Balkanac
-
7c+  
177 Cigo
-
8a  
178 Winnetou
-
8a 2
179 Aglaia
-
8a+  
180 Žuja
-
7b 1
181 Tika Plus
-
6c+ 3
182 Staracka Dalekovidnost
-
7a+ 1
183 La Vita é Bella
-
7a+  
184 Compadres de Puta Madre
-
8a+  
185 Žrelo
-
8a+  
186 Depresija
-
6b 2
  Sector A 19-25
188 Moskito
-
8b  
189 Motorna Vrtilka
-
6c+  
190 Gorki
-
6a+  
191 Chandra
-
7a 1
192 Titanic Sindrom
-
6b+  
193 Kamen Mudrosti
-
7c 4
194 Teta Albina
-
6a+  
195 As (T) Years Go By
-
6a+ 4
196 Sex+
-
6a+ 2
197 Mesalina
-
6c  
198 Kaligula
-
6a  
199 Anisa
-
6c+  
  Sector B - Veliki Vitrenik
201 Oliver Dragojević 3a ** 29
202 Krele
-
4c 1
203 Skalinada
-
3a  
204 Snoopy
-
3a 1
205 Oprosti Mi Pape
-
4a * 21
206 Greben
-
3a  
  Sector C - Crljenica
208 Borna
-
6a+ 2
209 Dinkovac
-
6b+  
210 Tri Musketira
-
6c+  
211 Bez Imena
-
6c  
212 Jarceva
-
7b  
213 63
-
7a 2
214 Liposukcija
-
7a  
215 Prvi Put
-
7a+  
216 Kung Fu
-
7b+  
217 Ivana
-
7b+  
218 Timon 7a * 3
219 Dana Drumski Razbojnik
-
7c 1
220 Babin Zub
-
8a  
221 Joca Amsterdam
-
7a+ 1
222 Topla Voda 6b+ 6
223 Cik po cak
-
6c+ 1
224 Jovanka
-
8a+  
225 Dying in the Sun 7b  
226 Jedaj
-
7b+  
227 Fifty-fifty
-
6c+  
228 L ira di Onofrio 6a+ ** 2
229 Blaghers in Arms 6b 3
230 Zozi
-
6b * 1
231 Babin Dub
-
6b  
232 Alba Chiara 6c  
233 Marenda kod Dinka 6b+  
  Sector D - Kukovi Ispod Vlake
235 Nosorog 4c *** 58
236 Kikos Bohrer 6a ** 8
237 Easter Night Fever
-
6b  
238 Lidijin 5a *** 12
239 Joe de Ripper 6a 5
240 Vesela Obitelj 6a 1
241 Borna i Rok 6a ** 3
242 Ada i Sanjski 6a  
243 Unter Geiern
-
5c  
  Sector D/1 - Kukovi ispod Vlake - South face
245 Present for Barbara
-
6a 2
246 Drainpipe
-
6a 2
247 Throne
-
6b+ 2
248 Homo Glei
-
5c 3
249 Regina di Cuori 6a+ 2
250 Il mare e una Tavola
-
6a+ 2
251 Tira Imbecille
-
6b+ 2
252 Buono Domenico
-
6a 1
253 Spit Bull 5c ** 9
  Sector E - Debeli kuk
255 Karaoke 7a 1
256 Slovenski (PIPS) 6a+ 8
257 Sedmi Kontinent 7b+  
258 Brza Varijanta 6a+ 1
259 Big Wall Speed Climbing 6c+ 2
260 Diagonalka 6a+ *** 7
261 Zgrešeni 5b * 14
262 Johnny 7a  
263 Drugi Program 7b+ 1
264 Senza Pieta 6b+ 2
265 Kalamari Union
-
6c  
266 Pink Panther 6a+  
  Anića kuk - North face
268 Levitacija 6c+  
269 Lost World 6c  
270 Kamasutra 5a ** 6
271 Figurae Veneris 6a 1
272 Propeler 6b  
273 Enigma 7b+ **  
274 Ljubljanski 6a+ ***  
275 50 and Life to Go 6c  
276 The Show Must Go On 6c ** 2
277 Nema Dinka do Dinka 7b **  
278 Vila Velebita 7b+ **  
279 Himalaya Sport 7c+  
280 Lokomotiva 7c+  
281 Mjesecina 7c+ **  
282 Mjesecina Light 7b+  
283 Duh Kneza 7c **  
284 Amici Miei 7b **  
  Anića kuk - Northwest face
286 Jenjavi 7a+ 3
287 Himalajski 7b+  
288 Rumeni Strah 7c  
289 Albatross 7a ** 1
290 Velebitaški 6a+ *** 46
291 Bubamara 7c  
292 Rajna 7a 2
293 Gaz 7b  
294 Waterworld 7b+  
Climb name Grade
  Anića kuk - Klin
296 Klin 6c+ *** 15
297 Šubara Direkt 6c+ 2
298 Nostalgija 6b 2
299 Brid Klina 7c  
300 Zenit 7b  
301 Spider 8a  
302 Welcome - to Hell or to Paradise? 7c  
303 Ultimate Fight 7a+  
  Anića kuk - Trapez
305 Mosoraški 6a *** 107
306 Funkcija 6c+  
307 Kaurismakis Mistake 7a+  
308 Cupido 8a  
309 Zlatne Godine 7c  
310 Alan Fjord 7c  
311 Deserto del Coure 7a+  
312 Kača 6a+ ** 5
313 Posejdon 6c+  
314 Infinito 7a+  
315 D. Brahm 5c * 21
316 Passenger 7b  
317 Black Magic Woman 7b+ 1
  Anića kuk - Stup
319 Agricantus 8a  
320 Desna Tržiška 6b  
321 Šaleški 5a 15
322 Šaleški - Ulazna varijanta 5a 5
323 Kava kod Dinka 6b+  
324 Brid za Veliki Cekic 5a 5
325 Raz za Romantike
-
6c  
326 Forma Viva 6a+ 2
327 Leva Tržiška 6a+  
328 Trik 5a 4
329 Samo Malo
-
6b+  
330 Ona Ljubi Rock 6c+  
331 Brid za mali čekić 6c+ 3
332 Bears on Toast 6c+  
333 Utopija 85 6c+  
334 Lastovka
-
7a  
335 Little Sausage
-
6b  
336 Ego
-
6a 1
337 Domžalski 6a ** 39
338 Karabore 5c 28
339 Karabore - Vstopna Varianta 6a 1
340 Švicarski
-
6a 2
341 Walter Wolf 6c  
342 Pero 6a 6
343 Sonho Meu 6c+  
344 Thüringer Weg 6a * 3
345 Abseil Pista 4a 2
346 Rebeka 6b  
347 Danaja 5a 12
348 Utopija VII- 2
  Anića kuk - West face
350 Kraški Slovenski Tržaški Steber 6a+ 1
351 Bora 4c 8
352 Capitan Pelinkovac 6b+ 4
353 Catch The Rainbow 5a ** 13
354 Juha 6a 5
355 Bracni Smjer 6a 7
356 L'anno delle Lumache 2a 1
357 Akademski 4a 6
  Veliki Ćuk
359 Sjeverni Greben
-
3a 8
360 Sjeverno Rebro 4b 32
361 Water Song 6a+ 18
362 Varijanta na Sjeverno Rebro 4c 4
363 SuperĆuk 7a  
364 Izgubljena Djeca 6a+ 2
365 Zimski Cvijet 6a+ 1
366 Nidia 6b+ 1
367 Gyps Fulvus 6b+  
368 Centralni Kamin 5a 32
369 Gornja Varijanta
-
4a 2
370 Barba Antin 5a 3
371 Kanjonski 3b 3
372 Paparazzi 6b+ 1
  Veliki Ćuk - West face
374 Zumbul
-
6c  
375 Karamara Sweet Temptations 6a+ 9
376 Karamara Sweet Temptations - Varijanta
-
6c  
377 Gospodari Kiše 6a+ 5
378 Jezna
-
7b+  
379 Circus 6a 2
  Mali Ćuk
381 Sidarta
-
6c  
382 Celjski Stup 5a ** 30
  Kuk od Skradelin
384 Tinin smjer 4b 6
385 Tinin Smjer - Desna Varijanta 4b * 7
386 Ilo
-
6a 1
387 Andy and Max 5c 6
388 Franz Hohensinn 6a+ ** 12
389 Faulenzer 6b+  
390 Dreaming the Lost Friends 6a+ ** 8
391 Schwara Ois
-
6b 1
392 Barbara
-
7a+  
393 Brot und Spiele 6b+ 2
394 Kosovo 6a+ 4
395 Armadillon 6a 6
396 Armadilion - Izlazna Varijanta
-
6a+  
397 Saku 6c  
398 Ča je od Draga je od Draga 6b+ *** 6
399 Kameni Croissant 6a 1
400 Frau Blüher 6a 2
401 Flex and Rex 5a * 7
402 Doktor Frankenstiin 6a 2
403 Aigor 6a 2
404 Piksi & Diksi 5a 3
405 Anarhija 6b 1
406 Castello di Carte 6a+ 1
407 Le Ginestre 5b 2
  Ovčji kuk
409 Kajuu
-
3c 1
410 Prijatelju Moj
-
3a 7
411 Pored žute mrlje
-
3c 1
412 Cile
-
4b 5
  Kuk od Pašćetnice
414 Desno rebro
-
3b 2
  Kuk Tisa
416 Josipa Debeljaka 4a * 11
417 Izduženo Rebro 4a 3
418 Zubatac 4a ** 15
419 Ranozoreći 4a 4
  Zubatac
421 Zubatac (Short Version) 4a 6
422 Orada
-
4c 1
423 Mühlenweg
-
5a 5
424 Morgenspaziergang
-
5c 5
425 Siebenschläfer
-
5c 2
426 Nachmittagsvergnügen
-
6a 2
427 Night Life
-
6a+ 2
  Maniti kuk - Zub
429 Istočni brid S 4b 2
  Karin (Not in Paklenica)
431 Wigwam 6a 1
432 Totem 6b 1
433 Indianische Bevanda 6a+ 1
434 Winnetou strasse 6b+ 1
435 Blago Na. Srebrnom Jezeru 6c 1
436 Oldies but Goldies * V2 * 1
437 Masa i medo * 5b 1
438 A je to * 5a 1
439 Baltazar * 5a 1
440 Popaj (Baltazar) * 6b+ 1
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

Moderators Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteers dannyboy83 and Marko Duksi