Please refrain from climbing outside

Due to the ongoing spread of Covid-19, please abstain from climbing outside.

At UKC we are all climbers and we understand the strong urge to be outdoors as the weather is finally improving, but we feel this is no longer socially acceptable. You can read our statement here.

We have suspended the UKC Logbooks Top Ascents and Conditions pages and we will no longer accept ascents dated from 23rd March onwards. You can still upload your historic ascents.

UKClimbing Team

Climbs 142
Rocktype Gabbro
Altitude 33m a.s.l
Faces NW

Crag features

The cliffs around St. David's Head itself include some superb routes from D to E5. The most popular crags are Craig Coetan and the South Buttress of St. David's Head, both of which give enjoyable climbing on solid rock in the lower grades. Mur Cenhinen has a large supply of extreme routes with fantastic but condition-dependent climbing on impressively steep rock.

Approach notes

The crags are approached from Whitesands car park via the headland or the Iron Age burial chamber of Coetan Arthur.

Approach times very between 15-30 mins.

Restricted Access

Excellent Gabbro crags that should be easier to find with the new 2013 guidebook! Best on afternoons and summer evenings.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 1 August

Reason: Nesting Birds

There is a nest site at Mur Cenhinen. Please do not climb the following routes until 1st August; 'Sunset Rib' to 'Regan' inclusive. This is the extreme right hand side of the main cliff and the left side of the seaward cliff.

There is a Ravens' nests adjacent  'Binary Fission' (Craig Hebog), please avoid this route 1st March to 1st July and minimise disturbance in these areas. 

Just had an afternoon visit on a blazing hot day. Only did a couple of simple routes but was genuinely impressed with the crag, the views, the climbing and most of all the rock! Simply superb in terms of gear, friction and climbing. Reminded me of the easier routes at Bosigran and that is not faint praise. Really looking forward to a future visit and there is definitely potential for new lines.
Zoomer - 11/Sep/14
Working on adding the missing climbs and general tidy up of this crag page - should also have a photo or two of the area to help locate lines in the next week or two
Matt88 - 27/Jul/13
I've un-moderated myself. I haven't logged in in ages.
pishmishy - 19/Jul/13
Great to see such exemplary crag moderation!
Mark Davies PK - 17/Jul/13
Where can I get a guide for this crag, I have Rockfax Pembroke but it is missing!
Beans - 16/Mar/11
This crag is actually Quartz Gabbro ( a bit like granite)not sandstone. Some great routes inc. Fuzzy Peg (severe, Act of God and LBJ (V.S.) and Sharksville (E5).
Steve Quinton - 20/Oct/05
Climbed there yesterday escaping cool wind from NW and a seeping Mur Cheninen.Excellent little crag ,the HVS is "way out" overhanging on big holds.
Bob Bennett - 05/Aug/03
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Coastguard Edge
2 The Sabre HS 4b  
3 The Foil E1 5c  
4 Supraspinatus HVS 5a 2
5 Overhang Crack HS 4a  
6 Smile Wall HS 4b  
7 Slime Corner VD 1
8 The Groove VD 2
9 Slab and Wall VD  
10 Quartz Ridge VD 1
11 Orange Ridge D  
  Cornish Zawn
13 What Doesn't Kill You... 7a ***  
14 Cornish Cream E3 6a *** 1
  Mur Cenhinen - Main Face
16 Cripple Creek
-
VD  
17 The Nose S 1
18 Negative Waves E1 5a 1
19 Dangler E1 5a 2
20 Dangler Direct Finish
-
E1 5b  
21 Wavelength HVS 5a 1
22 Eclipse
-
E2 5c  
23 Maharishi
-
VS 4c * 1
24 Maharishi Direct
-
E1 5b  
25 Dupiaza E1 5a * 5
26 Sheik an' Vak
-
E2 5b * 2
27 Dimril VS 4b * 10
28 Heavy Weather
-
VS 4c  
29 Flight of the Falcon
-
E4 5c 1
30 Sundance
-
E5 6a  
31 Mad Mutt E4 6a **  
32 Goneril E4 5c * 4
33 Sunfish
-
E5 6a *  
34 Sunset Rib E5 6b **  
35 Grendel E2 5b  
36 Morfan E1 5b * 1
  Mur Cenhinen - Seaward Face
38 Cordelia HVS 5a * 3
39 The Mark of Zorro E5 6a **  
40 Regan E2 5c  
41 King Lear E2 5c  
42 Ogof Left-hand E3 6a *  
43 Ogof E2 5c *  
44 Cave Route HVS 5a  
45 Cave Route-Cordelia Connection
-
HVS  
46 Slab Route VS 4b 2
47 Nonesuch
-
HS 4b 2
48 Seaview Groove
-
D 3
  Craig Coetan
  Lower Tier
51 Scary Spider
-
E1 5b *  
52 Sharksville
-
E6 6b  
53 Cragmonsters
-
E2 5b  
54 Summer Holiday
-
E1 5b * 9
Climb name Grade
55 Act of God VS 4c ** 110
56 Integrity
-
S 4a 8
57 MLK HS 4b * 1
58 Wall Climb VD 15
59 Nostril VS  
60 LBJ
-
VS 4c * 58
61 Stroll On
-
VD 11
  Central Area
63 Green Man
-
VD 14
64 Corridor
-
D 20
65 For All Intents and Porpoises S 4b 2
66 Libra HS 4b 37
67 Zig-Zag
-
D 50
68 Surprise Slabs
-
HS 4a 23
69 Central Route S 4a 47
70 Silmaril
-
S 4a * 60
71 Silmaril Direct VS 4c * 59
72 Silmaril Super Direct HVS 5a  
73 Fuzzy Peg
-
S 4a ** 163
74 Dinner Date E1 5b 6
75 Coetan Crack VS 4c 21
76 Hors d'Oeuvre
-
E1 5b 6
77 Flake-Fake HS 4b 32
78 Subsidiary Crack
-
D 9
79 Coetan Gully
-
D 8
80 Girdle Traverse
-
S  
  South Buttress
82 Ostentatious
-
E1 5b 3
83 Yankeedoddle
-
S 4a 8
84 Straight-up VS 4c 1
85 Coetan Buttress
-
VD 5
86 The Nose
-
S 4a 4
87 Diamond Buttress S 4a * 16
  Penmaen Coetan
89 Pass On
-
D 5
90 Pass It
-
HS 4b 6
91 Take In
-
VS 4c 1
92 Fly Past
-
S * 9
93 Afterthought
-
VS 4c  
94 Don't Wave Now HS 4a *  
95 Past Tense VS 4c  
96 Post Script VS 4b  
  Craig y Crisial
  Left Wing
99 Obscurity
-
E2 5c  
100 Flaked Out
-
E2 5c  
101 Ocean Wave
-
VS 4b  
102 Big Blue
-
VS 4c  
103 Central Groove
-
VD  
104 The Crystal Maze
-
E2 5b  
  Central Section
106 Balancing Act E2 5b * 3
107 Act of Insanity
-
E3 5c *  
108 Treasure Trove
-
E4 6a  
Climb name Grade
  Chimney Section
110 The Thought for the Day Is Goose
-
HVS 4c  
111 Pinch and a Punch
-
E2 5b  
112 Headbanger Wall
-
E4 6a  
113 On the Border
-
S  
114 The Last Resort
-
E2 5b *  
115 Midnight Flyer
-
E3 5c  
116 Take It Easy
-
HS 4c  
  Right Wing
118 Bunny Boiler
-
VS 4c  
119 Little Lepus
-
VD  
120 Diagon Alley
-
D  
121 Rabbit's Slab
-
D  
122 Pass the Buck
-
VD  
123 Cuniculus Crack
-
E1 5b  
  Penmaen Dewi (St. David's Head)
  North Buttress
126 Flower Pot Men
-
HVS 5a 4
127 Weed
-
E1 5b * 2
128 Gripping Yarns
-
E3 6a  
129 Reachy Roof Route
-
E3 6a *  
130 The Embevmetron
-
E1 5b 4
131 Silver Sunset
-
E2 5c * 2
  Bouldering
133 Black Wall
-
V3  
134 Black ArĂȘte
-
V1  
135 North Bishop
-
V1  
136 Carreg Rhoson
-
V3  
137 Daufraich Wall
-
V2  
138 South Bishop
-
V1  
  St David's Head Zawn
140 Terry's Route
-
E2 5c *  
141 Zawn Off E2 5c ** 3
142 Pikey Joe's Tale of Woe E2 5b  
  South Buttress
144 Double Take
-
S 4a 40
145 Rakish Crack VD 70
146 Oyon's Boxing Gully M 7
147 Overhanging Buttress
-
HVS 5a * 50
148 Central Crack
-
S 4a 48
149 Step-Up
-
S 4a * 54
150 Pull-Up
-
VS 4c 44
151 Crack-Up VD 39
152 Sit-start Rampage HS 4b 1
153 The Rake D * 68
154 Yo-Yo E2 5b * 4
155 Funnybone E2 5b * 1
156 The Staircase
-
D * 28
157 The Staircase Direct VD 6
158 'Cos Happiness is the Roof * HS 4c * 7
  Carnllidi Bychan
160 Long Climb S 4a 6
161 Carnllidi Wall
-
S 4a 4
162 Carnllidi Groove S 4a 9
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer dannyboy83