Climbs 106
Rocktype Granite
Altitude 50m a.s.l
Faces W

Grant resting casually just after the crux © JoeCoxson

Crag features

Many single-pitch routes up to 100ft to delight the sub-E1 climber, at a crag (actually three) which is often overlooked but sports plenty of delightful routes. Highly recommended: South Groove (E1 5c) and its continuation around and up the perched block, West Wing (E2 5c).

Approach notes

Privately owned but permission has been given for climbing. Please treat with care and take your litter home.

Park at the NT car park at Rinsey (SW 592272) (reached from the A394 Penzance-Helston rd by turning off R at Ashton). Follow the coast path about 0.75mile E to reach the main cliff, of which the E crag offers the best routes.

Rockfax App

Available in the Rockfax App

The Rockfax App brings together all the Rockfax climbing information with UKC logbooks and presents it into a user-friendly package for use on Apple iOS devices (Android version to follow).


Guidebooks

West Country Climbs

West Country Climbs is a major Rockfax guide to one of the UK’s most celebrated, sunny and diverse climbing regions. The book is fashioned in Rockfax’s award-winning layout and design, and copiously illustrated with action photographs of the climbs and cliffs that reflect the quality and variety of climbing experiences to be had on offer in the UK’s most popular holiday destination - the West Country. This is a selected route and buttress guidebook which covers the best 900 routes from the crags listed below.
More info
Massive landslide down the gully leading to Dennis, Brown Sugar etc. Sometime between September 2012 & Jan 2013. Not sure how this may have affected the approach or the route 'Dennis', but might be worth waiting for it to stabilise before heading down the gully.
Tom Last - 30/Dec/12
We had our car broken into at the national trust car park, somebody nicely hammered a screwdriver or similar through the door skin above the locks on both side of the car and found a bag under the passengers seat. The police informed me that this is not an unusual occurrence for this car park! Please Beware.
Wotsit - 25/Jan/09
A great little crag, which can be quite sheltered and climbable when wind and/or tides make places like Chair Ladder unwelcoming. A lot of the routes are better than the star ratings might suggest (though I haven 't got the latest guide). A particluar gem for the modest climber is Mascara (VS) which has no stars in my book but is really good value
Rog Wilko - 19/Aug/08
South Groove - a lot of E1 for your money ! Williams's Chimney on the E face - only HVS because the chimney is all loose - think light thoughts...
uncle nick - 28/Jun/04
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Black Back Zawn
2 Boden
-
S 4a 2
3 Blackback Slab and Crack
-
HS 4b 2
4 Heavy Metal Lover
-
S 4b 2
5 Lead Me Out On the Moonlit Floor
-
HS 4b 2
  Trewavas Head
7 The Pequod S 4a * 2
8 Foundation and Empire VS 4c ** 3
9 Captain Flint
-
S 4a 2
10 John Silver
-
VD 2
11 Roger
-
VD 3
12 Over And Out
-
VS 5a  
13 Brown Sugar
-
E2 5b 1
14 Dennis
-
S 4a 2
  West Crag
16 The Stars Like Dust HS 4b 2
17 Mantelshelf Wall
-
S 4a 9
18 Rucsac
-
VD 15
19 Triple Fugue S 4a 18
20 Per Ardua
-
VS 4c 13
21 Sunshine Wall
-
VD 15
22 Fool Spirit HVS 4c * 3
23 Campion
-
VD 7
24 Last Resort
-
VD 6
25 No Gear, No Fear
-
HS 4b 2
26 Pennywort
-
VD 1
27 Wild Mountain Thyme E1 5a * 4
28 The East Tower
-
E1 5b * 2
  Sea Crag
30 Sidewinder
-
HS 1
31 Fran's Route
-
VS 4c  
32 Hot Cross Bun
-
S 4a 1
33 Air Sea Rescue
-
S 4a  
34 The Mocker
-
D  
  East Crag
36 Cornel
-
HS 4b 228
37 Flanker Direct
-
E1 5b 42
38 Flanker
-
HVS 5a * 103
39 Spanker
-
E3 6a 44
40 Hanker E1 5b * 13
41 Sam's Indirect Finish To Bending Chimney VS 5a 69
42 Bending Chimney VD * 328
43 Side Step
-
HS 4b 131
44 Side Step Direct
-
E1 5c 19
45 Harvey Proctor
-
E2 5c * 22
46 The Prow
-
E1 5b 18
47 The Bowsprit
-
E2 5c 6
48 Figurehead E3 5c 1
49 Debut Arete
-
E4 6a 4
50 Simon
-
VS 4c 2
51 Green Crack
-
VS 4c  
52 Slight
-
D 5
53 Gaffer's Revenge
-
S 4a 1
54 The Tiercel
-
HS 4b 2
55 Gaffer's Wall
-
S 4a 5
56 The Pillar
-
VD 2
57 Short'n'Sweet
-
S 4a 17
58 Mouseproof S 4a * 373
59 From Water to Wine S 8
60 Bramble
-
VD 188
61 Glissade
-
E2 5c/6a 21
62 Avalanche Direct
-
VS 5a 53
63 Avalanche VS 5a * 275
64 Giggle Wiggle
-
E3 6a 23
65 Easy Gully
-
D 93
66 Carrivick VS 4c 110
67 Ivy Chimney
-
VD 209
68 Dis Lichen
-
S  
69 South Groove
-
E1 5c * 98
70 West Wing E2 5c ** 97
71 The Serpent
-
E5 6a 2
72 Colomen HVS 4c * 121
73 Colomen Direct Start VS 5a 2
74 Single Blondes E4 6a 4
75 Williams' Chimney HVS 5b ** 238
76 The Banner Variation E1 5b * 83
77 Slade's Pillar
-
E3 5c 5
78 Mascara VS 4c ** 370
79 Crossover
-
HVS 5a 55
80 "It Said Direct!" VS 5a 3
81 Joy Direct
-
VS 4c 135
82 Nephew's Variation VS 4c 28
83 Joy S 4a * 495
84 Sancho VD 296
85 Sancho Direct Start S 16
86 Who needs a Royal Fry-up? HS 4a 11
87 Un-named
-
D 10
88 Hubble Drect
-
S 67
89 The Groove
-
D 146
90 Hesitation Cracks
-
VS 5a 172
91 Mexicano
-
HS 4b 226
92 The Girdle
-
HVS 5a 2
93 Struth
-
E1 5b 1
  The Ridge
95 Nerth
-
VS 4b 6
96 Trimsaren
-
S 4a 13
97 Nosey
-
HS 4b 12
98 White Light, White Heat
-
E1 5b 8
99 Turning Up The Heat
-
E2 5b ** 5
100 Colenzo
-
VD 15
101 Eyeful Tower
-
E1 5b 3
102 Wee-Nutcracker
-
VS 5a * 10
103 Fast Furious Drive North
-
E3 5c *  
104 Afterthought
-
VD 3
105 The Traverse
-
VS 4c  
  Microseconds Crack Area
107 First Love
-
VD 1
108 Last Rights
-
D 1
109 Shark Fin E2 5c 5
110 Duck Walk VD 2
111 Microseconds Crack
-
S 4a 5
112 Gape Ride
-
VD 2
113 Lennoraptor
-
D 1

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