Climbs 37
Rocktype Limestone

Faces all

Crag features

The crag is in Range West, an Army live-firing range. Briefed climbers (with a valid permit) can access the crag year round when the range is not firing (all weekends & on Bank Holidays plus some weekdays). The BMC, MOD, the National Park and local climbers have negotiated putting some belay stakes above this crag.  Please do not place your own stakes - each stake placement checked for dangerous ordnance and approved by conservation bodies. Putting your own stakes in may be dangerous and will definitely jeopardise our access relationship with the MOD and CCW.

Access Advice

The crag is in Range West, an Army live-firing range. Briefed climbers (with a valid permit) can access the crag year round when the range is not firing (all weekends & on Bank Holidays plus some weekdays). The BMC, MOD, the National Park and local climbers have negotiated putting some belay stakes above this crag.  Please do not place your own stakes - each stake placement checked for dangerous ordnance and approved by conservation bodies. Putting your own stakes in may be dangerous and will definitely jeopardise our access relationship with the MOD and CCW.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 10 July

Reason: Nesting Birds

The Linney Head (north gully) restriction now runs west from Discovery not east (all routes on the south wall)

Now “Another One Bites the Dust” to “Discovery”

The chough have moved to the main Linney Head Gully (South Zawn) where there are no recorded climbs - please do not develop this area at present. Restriction lifted July 10 2017  

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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
1 Burial at Sea
-
HVS 4c  
2 Foam at the Range
-
E1 5a  
3 Squarerigger
-
E1 5a  
4 Obsession
-
E2 5c ** 2
5 Skydiver
-
E1 5a  
6 Rooney Rocket
-
E2 5b *  
7 Suspended Hanging
-
E1 5b, 5a  
8 Well Hung
-
E3 5c, 5b ***  
9 Trojan
-
E3 5c ***  
10 Rainbow Warriors
-
E2 5b *** 6
11 Icarus
-
E4 6a *** 2
12 Tombstone
-
E4 6a *** 2

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