Climbs 42
Rocktype Sandstone (hard)
Altitude 250m a.s.l
Faces NW

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Alan James on finishing jugs of High Velocity at Curtis Crag in Northumberland © Rob Lovell/Alan James Collection

Crag features

A small crag just west of Sweethope Lough. It is split into two small buttresses which each have a handful of good routes on quality juggy rock. Gear is okay but not always where you need it. The routes are a little high for bouldering.

The crag faces just north of west cgetting sun from early afternoon. It is quick to dry although the less-travelled routes will gather lichen.

Approach notes

Park just past the trees after passing Sweethope Lough (fishing spot) at a large gated entrance on the south of the road. There is plenty of room but don't block the gates. 

Dry approach - Go over the gate and through a small quarry area. Head up the heather at the back and then plough through it along the crag top to a stone wall. Don't go down to early since there is a false bluff before the decent section. Go over the wall with care and drop down to the base of North Buttress.

Wet approach - Walk up the road and then follow a rough path parallel to a stone wall across boggy ground to the crag. Quicker and easier when it is dry enough.

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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  North Buttress
2 Shooting Gallery
-
HVS 5a 2
3 Shot in the Dark
-
E3 5c ** 8
4 High Velocity
-
HVS 5b * 39
5 The Enforcer
-
VS 5a 24
6 Friendly Fire
-
VS 5a 50
7 Loose Cannon
-
S 82
8 Magnum
-
VD 68
9 Lock
-
E2 5c 3
10 Stock
-
E2 5c * 5
11 Barrel
-
E2 5c 7
12 Naked Gun
-
VS 4c 27
13 Bushwhacker
-
S 21
14 Dum Dum
-
VD 19
15 Small Bore
-
HVS 5b 1
Climb name Grade
16 Sharpshooter
-
S 48
17 Pop Gun
-
D 11
18 Cap
-
none 5a 7
19 Butt
-
none 5a 4
20 Sight
-
none 5a 8
  South Buttress
22 Sitting Duck
-
HS 4b 60
23 Decoy
-
VS 5a 8
24 Game Cock
-
VS 5a 28
25 Turkey Shoot
-
VD 46
26 The Gobbler
-
D 38
27 Glorious 12th
-
HS 4c 35
28 Big Shot
-
VS 5a 37
29 Victim of Circumstance
-
HVS 5a * 35
30 Endangered Species
-
E1 5c 1
Climb name Grade
31 Natural Selection
-
E1 5b * 8
32 Line of Sight
-
VS 4c 3
33 Natural Line
-
E1 5b 3
34 Fair Game
-
HS 4c 46
35 Prime Suspect
-
VS 5a 16
36 Second Thoughts
-
HVS 5b 13
37 Suspicious Mind
-
VS 5a 17
38 Above Suspicion
-
VS 4c 40
39 Hook
-
VS 5b * 33
40 Line
-
VS 4c 17
41 Sinker
-
VS 4c 25
42 Float
-
VS 4c 33
43 Cast
-
HS 4b 39

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