Climbs 93
Rocktype Greenstone
Altitude Tidal
Faces S

Phil Beddow on the first pich of Martell Slab © henry castle

Crag features

The only greenstone crag on the Cornish south coast. Protection and belays are generally good. Many routes are in the lower grades, with both single and multi-pitch routes up to 160ft. Don't miss the classic Martell Slab (VS 4c).

Beware the random (but mercifully rare) 70-decibel blasts from the lighthouse.

 

Approach notes

Park at Lamorna Cove (SW 450238). Warning: £7 parking fee!!  Follow the coast path west for about a mile to reach some steps leading down to a lighthouse; the main crag lies just west of this. The convenient approach down the lighthouse steps is not allowed: the legitimate (and rather more tortuous) western approach is described in the CC guidebook.

Western Buttresses are well above the sea. It is distinctly tidal at the base of the Main Face, which is accessible approximately three hours either side of low tide (in calm conditions). It is also tidal, but somewhat less so, in the Sentry Box area. Seaward Craglets are non-tidal. Only the first 5 routes in Lighthouse Zawn are tidal but the other routes can be affected by waves. The Eastern Walls area is mostly non-tidal.

 

Rockfax App

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Guidebooks

West Country Climbs

West Country Climbs is a major Rockfax guide to one of the UK’s most celebrated, sunny and diverse climbing regions. The book is fashioned in Rockfax’s award-winning layout and design, and copiously illustrated with action photographs of the climbs and cliffs that reflect the quality and variety of climbing experiences to be had on offer in the UK’s most popular holiday destination - the West Country. This is a selected route and buttress guidebook which covers the best 900 routes from the crags listed below.
More info
First visit here. Nice crag, reminds me of Pembroke range west in terms of rock-type/terrain. Climbs are great and despite the cracks its all pretty solid. Tried to follow the descent in the old CC book on the far left but had to abseil the last bit (new maillon, June 2015, with newish looking sling). Big put off was the car park charge - 7.00 all day was pretty steep! But if you want seclusion then this is your crag!
partz - 21/Jun/15
The grades and descriptions for the new mini-routes on the Seaward Craglets and in Lighthouse Zawn are mostly correct, but there are one or two errors. For example, Sunshine (in the Zawn) is a pleasant VD, not VS. I will try to get all remaining mistakes corrected.
bpmclimb - 15/May/14
The new stuff from Brian Mullen and others here is pretty short, but really worthwhile. If you want a low stress, non-tidal day out in a gorgeous, sunny and quiet setting, then you could do a whole lot worse. Like a mini Cornish version of Reiff. Good stuff.
Tom Last - 22/Nov/13
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Western Buttresses
2 Sitting Tenant VD  
3 A Cornish Summer E2 5b 5
4 Whose Army? HVS 4c 2
5 Robyn HS 4b 2
6 Si E1 5b 3
7 A Honey in the Meadow HVS 5b  
8 Sitting Comfortably VD  
9 Taking It Easy
-
HS 4b 5
10 A Bunny on the Roof HVS 5a 1
  Main Face
12 Bedrock Chimney VD  
13 Pericles you bastard VS 4c 1
14 Knight's Move VS 4c 1
15 Knight's Pillar VS 4c 2
16 Checkmate HVS 5a  
17 Just Du It VS 4c 1
18 Pericles HVS 5a * 7
19 Lysander E1 5b 3
20 Western National D 4
21 Commando Special
-
VS 4c * 14
22 Rook's Folly HVS 5a  
23 Crow's Nest Ordinary HS 4b * 37
24 Gully Route
-
S 4a 10
25 Crow's Nest Direct
-
HVS 5b * 4
26 Martell Slab VS 4c *** 107
27 Martell Slab Superdirect E1 5a  
28 Martell Slab Direct E1 5a  
29 Martell Slab Direct Finish E1 5a  
30 Martell Groove HVS 4c  
31 The Tram Line E2 5c  
32 Lamorna Wall
-
E2 5c * 5
33 Martell Slab/Lamorna Wall connector HVS 5a  
34 The Water Margin E4 6b  
35 Lamorna Wall Left-hand Variation HVS 5a  
36 The Veil
-
E1 5a 3
37 Eric's Route VD 10
38 The Rabbit Run
-
VD  
39 Fat Panda S 4a 8
40 The Ramble
-
VD 6
41 Willie's Way
-
HVS 5a * 5
42 Bus Route
-
VD 3
43 Flaky Wall VS 4c 2
44 Raven's Nest Direct E1 5b  
45 Marine Parade
-
VD 3
  Dorna Wall
47 Final Touch HVS 5a 2
48 The Sentry Box S * 9
49 Somewhere Two Cats are Waiting HVS 5a  
50 Pregnant Pause S * 3
51 Smirkles HVS 4c 3
52 Dorna
-
HS 4b 10
53 Head Hunter HVS 5a 6
54 Andy's Route HVS 4c 5
55 Andy's direct E1 5b 3
  Seaward Craglets
57 Lazy D 4
58 Grumble VS 5a 2
59 Mean HVS 5b 3
60 Airfix HVS 5b 3
61 Busy VS 5a 6
62 Funny S 4a 5
63 Bounce HVS 5a 2
64 Worry E2 5c 2
65 Skinny VD 4
66 Chatterbox S 4a 7
67 Cheerful VS 4c 4
68 Mischief E2 5b 5
69 Bump E1 5b 6
70 Happy S 4a 7
71 Nosey E1 5c 2
72 Tickle VS 4c 4
73 Cool E2 5b 2
74 Dizzy HVS 5a 2
75 Jelly E2 5c 3
76 Sneeze VS 4c 7
77 Uppity S 4a 7
78 Rush HS 4a 2
  Lighthouse Zawn
80 Neat HVS 5a 3
81 Stubborn E1 5b 3
82 Fickle HVS 5a 3
83 Tidy E1 5b 3
84 Magic VD 1
85 Splendid VD 1
86 Shy VS 4b 1
87 Careful S 1
88 Curious VD 1
89 Contrary VD 1
90 Lucky E1 5b 3
91 Prim S 1
92 Sunshine VD 4
93 Scatterbrain VD 2
  Eastern Walls
95 Crouching Tiger, Hidden Limpet VS 4b 2
96 Limpets Don't Cry HVS 5a * 2
97 The Silence of the Limpets VS 4b 2
98 Reservoir Limpets S 2
99 The Inner Limpet S 2

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