Climbs 131
Rocktype Grit (quarried)
Altitude 194m a.s.l
Faces SW

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Me on Power of the Dark Side © nathanlee

Crag features

A good little collection of climbs on a previously dismissed set of buttresses. Although much exploration was done in the past, recent council tree clearance at Jackson Tor has helped turn this into a venue well worth visiting. 

Generally quick-drying and sheltered on a south-west facing hillside and can be climbed all year round.

Approach notes

Park on Cavendish Road by the bend, close to the playground.

Bank Quarry and Yew Buttress - walk up the road to two lanes heading off left. Take the second one past tennis courts and continue along a path that leads around the side of the pavilion. Just after the pavilion, a path next to a wire fence leads into the woods. Follow this to the cliff edge.

Jackson Tor - the broken edge lies directly below the playground. Follow a path around the side of the playground, down some steps and make your way along the base of the edge when you spot it.

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Guidebooks

Peak Bouldering

The Peak Bouldering Rockfax is a massive book covering a huge area including all the main bouldering venues of the Peak District. It includes many more low-grade problems than have ever been documented before including 17 circuits with problems at V0+ 5a and under, and a further 21 circuits with problems at V2 5c and below.
More info
It's starting to become a bit run down with the less popular climbs becoming overgrown with brambles and litter and broken glass below the popular climbs. It could do with a bit of a clean up.
hirving - 23/Jul/14
hmmm
Simon Caldwell - 20/Jan/14
There's a lot of scope to develop some low grade bouldering to the left of the tor, just needs some gardening and some time. Could be a circuit to keep the locals fresh!
sfletch - 19/Nov/12
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Credit Quarry
2 Gardener's Gift VS 4c 2
3 Credit Where It's Due E2 6a  
4 Credit Crunch E5 6b ** 1
5 Would You Credit It E1 5c 1
6 Drafter's Bank HVS 5b  
  Bank Quarry
8 Fruit Shoot f6B 2
9 Mangolito f7B  
10 Mangolito Left Hand f7A  
11 I'm a Mango V2 ** 6
12 Sidewinder HVS 5a * 4
13 Slow-Worm Left-hand V2 12
14 Slow-Worm V1 21
15 Diamondback V2 16
16 Scooped Up E1 5c * 8
17 Fangs for the Memory E2 5b * 2
18 Saucy Jack E2 5b * 1
19 Kingsnake HS 4c 9
20 Racer VD 6
21 Cobra V2 3
22 Copperhead V1 * 2
23 Zigzag HD 6
24 Gravity HVS 5b 1
25 Capstone Crack S 4a 7
26 Fallout
-
D  
27 Return of the Jedi XS 7a 1
28 Quien Sabe E3 6a * 1
29 Scoopered
-
E4 6a * 4
30 Softy E5 5c ** 6
31 Don't Worry VS 5a 1
32 Viper HVS 5b 4
33 The Power of the Dark Side E8 6b *** 27
34 Oops E1 5c 2
35 Clip Clop HVD 3
36 Jimmy f6B+ * 4
37 The Chiseller f6B 41
38 Boulder Arête Left-hand f5 ** 7
39 Boulder Arête f4+ * 71
40 Chisel On f5+ 54
41 Glory Days f6A+ * 41
42 The Boulder Traverse V6 * 4
  Yew Buttress
44 My Parsnip f6B+ 5
45 Yew Girdle HVS 5a *  
46 At a Gallop VS 5b * 14
Climb name Grade
47 Stirrup Spring E1 6a 8
48 Stirrup Spring Sit-start f7A 6
49 Grassgrab S 4a 32
50 Hee Haw Silver E1 5b 8
51 Pegasus VS 4c * 22
52 Hoarsing Around HVS 5a 5
53 Dark Horse E3 6a * 1
54 Back Street Abortionist f7A+ ** 28
55 Back Street Abortionist Sit-start V8 7
56 Knitting Needle Arête E5 6b *** 1
57 Bucephalus
-
HVS 5b 3
58 Trigger HVD 4b 8
59 Dave f7A+ 2
60 Dave Sit-start V8+ 1
61 Only Fools V0- 7
62 Evie f5 3
  Pine Wall
64 Devon Lock VS 4c 1
65 Rocking Horse E2 5c  
66 Donkey Work VD 1
67 Wild Ass f5 2
68 Show Pony f6C+ 4
69 Show Pony Sit-start f7A 2
70 Red Rum V1 ** 15
71 On the Range V0- 5
72 Close Range V0 4
73 Short Slab f4 2
74 Unspectacular Slab f5 2
  Jackson Tor
76 Sliding Face V0 2
77 Micro-Master's Edge V0- 3
78 Red Army Faction V3 3
79 The CCP V3 2
80 Hammer S 4a 3
81 Gut's V4 2
82 Spooked HS 4b 9
83 Rapa Nui f6A 1
84 Moai f6A ** 28
85 Grillian Pinch V4+ 1
86 Thinrib V0- * 13
87 Slow Braised f6B 3
88 Conscientious Objector f7A 2
89 Jackson Bollock f6C 5
90 Autumn Rhythm f4+ 2
91 Snake Bait f6B+ 2
92 Keelback f5 2
Climb name Grade
93 Patchnose f5 2
94 Nepeta f6A 1
95 Coachwhip V0+ 12
96 Spitting Cobra f6A * 32
97 Boa V0 14
98 Cottonmouth f6A ** 38
99 Cottonmouth Eliminate V5 6
100 Boomslang f5+ * 28
101 Boomslang Eliminate V3 4
102 Bushcraft f6B 2
103 Bushmaster VS 4c 4
104 Daffodil f4+ 1
105 Block Arête f4 1
106 Detectorists f5 3
107 Bonginator f6B 7
108 Plain old grunting f4 1
109 Use the force Luke f5 1
110 Beam me up Scot lad f5+ 1
111 Scot lad the brave f5+ 1
112 Nana’s Garden VE  
113 Off The Job V7 8
114 Freelance f7A+ 5
115 Work Life Balance V6 7
116 Full Time V7 12
117 Full Time Sit-start V8+ ** 6
118 Sweet Hallow f7A 5
119 The Arête Left-hand V4 15
120 The Arête f6A ** 78
121 The Arete Sit-start f6A+ 7
122 Ghoulies f6B+ 2
123 Workers' Rights f6C 2
124 The Sickle f5 * 63
125 Po f6C+ * 8
126 The Stride E1 5b * 20
127 Neomis S 4b * 34
128 Sunny on my tummy f5+ 1
129 Flake Left S 4a 40
130 Right Flake HVD 28
131 Central Wall HD * 55
132 Edging Bets E1 5b * 68
133 Mantel Crack VS 4c 38
134 Little Crack HS 4b 10
135 The Traverse VS 4c 4
136 The Beak HVD 4a 18

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