UKC

Climbs 33
Rocktype Granite
Altitude 349m a.s.l
Faces N

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Mount Nicholson - Dan Hannah on Stealth 6c © Francis Haden

Crag features

Mount Nicholson is located on Hong Kong Island, high above Wong Nai Chung Gap road and facing towards Kowloon. The quality of slab and crack climbing, not to mention fantastic views across Victoria Harbour and the height above the valley (which makes this a very quiet location for HK) all make for a great day out. The climbing is technical, well protected and typically in the F6a to F6c grade range, meaning it is likely to be of interest to the broad climbing community. In particular, some routes require sequences or a combination of climbing styles unlikely to be found on granite crags elsewhere in the region, adding to the character of climbing at this venue.

The routes on Mount Nicholson are predominantly bolt protected. However, prior to the recent development several traditionally protected routes had already been established on the Right Wall by Tom Chew, Gianni ‘Franco’ Bigazzi and Richard Cuncliffe (and potentially others before them). These routes remain unbolted as they follow prominent crack lines and are well protected. Climbers competent in placing traditional protection are encouraged to repeat these fantastic lines.

Good topo here:

https://hongkongclimbing.com/mount-nicholson/

Approach notes

Start at the World War II bunkers, opposite the Hong Kong Tennis Centre, because this provides an easy landmark on Wong Nai Chung Gap Road. From there a concrete path leads into the jungle and is followed for approximately 15 minutes, around the hillside, to a concrete water channel. Continue for a further 10 minutes along the path and around several bends, until a large tree, white spray-painted dot and rock cairn indicate the access route off the path to the climbing area.

From the main path, white spray-painted arrows lead up the gully, to a junction where to the left a short approach with a hand-line brings you to the base of a small compact wall of excellent rock (routes 1 – 4).

Directly ahead from the junction is the base of a steep rock gully and the start of a 2 pitch sport climb (“First Way In”), which can be climbed in one long 50 m pitch, or split into 2 separate pitches.

The main climbing area is accessed by following the path and hand-lines to the right, with one section featuring a series of galvanized steel rungs that have been glued into the rock.

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