Climbs 400
Rocktype Granite
Altitude 293m a.s.l
Faces all

Crag features

The most famous and largest area in Varazze, with 5 sectors. They are situated along a riverbed and spread over about 1km. The problems cover the whole range of grades and there should be something for everyone.

*New guidebook by Christian Core with new information may be more accurate*

Approach notes

Leave Varazze heading North to Pero. After a prominent double bend there is a small road on the right (small yellow sign 'Scavi Archeologici'). After approx. 1.2km, after some houses there is the biggest car parking space 10-15 cars, it is best to park here for the lower areas. Another 400m and 400m further on there are 2 more parking areas for 2-3 cars, for the mid and top areas. Another 600m after a end there is another space for 10-15 cars.
Please be careful with parking for this area. Do not park senselessly or in passing areas, since the road is quite thin and locals use the road often. Senseless parking here could cause access issues.

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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Sector Potala
  Antro dei Druidi
3 Castor f6B 3
4 Loky f6A 3
5 Naomi f6B 1
6 Mr. Ciabatta f6C+ 2
7 Darkface f7A+ 1
8 Amuleto f6C 1
9 Diemos f6C 1
10 Angeli f4 1
11 Due Alberi di Troppo f6A+ 1
12 Nell f3 1
13 Nell (Sit) f6A+ 1
14 Floc f5 1
15 Flic f4 1
16 Sirio f5 1
Climb name Grade
17 Labrys f5 2
18 Fidati del Fato f4 1
19 Signori delle Notte f6A 1
20 Bambini Coraggiosi f6A+ 1
21 Wake Up f6A 1
22 Palle Cubiche f6A 1
23 Nebulosa f7B+ 1
24 Un Foletto per Amico f6A 1
25 Magnet f6A 1
26 Ecate f6A 1
27 Asso nella Manica f6A 1
28 Kali f6C 1
29 Arikara
-
f6C 1
30 Lhasa
-
f7A+ * 1
31 Want You Bad
-
f8A **  
Climb name Grade
  Dimora Degli Elfi
33 Sabipodo f5+ 1
34 La Proteina f5+ 1
35 Aracnofobia f6A+ 1
  Terra di Mezzo
37 Warm Up by Alphacentauri cave f4 3
38 Muschio f3 1
39 Sotto Voce f6A 1
40 Be Happy f5+ 1
41 Troppa Edera f5 2
42 Lassie f6B 2
43 Cuicciati il Calzino f7B+ 1
44 Ciucciati il Calzino (Low) f7C 1
45 Listine f6B 1
46 Fetore f6A 1
  River Block

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