Climbs 63
Rocktype Granite
Altitude 50m a.s.l
Faces S

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Tom Bunn at the crux of Skyfall. © Tom Last

Crag features

High-quality routes on flawless granite nicely spread across the grades. Single- and multi-pitch routes up to 120ft. Notable for Chlorophyll Cluster (E1 5b) and The Baldest (E4 6a). Often quiet.

Approach notes

The most convenient parking is at Treverven Farm, where  a fee of £3 (2013) should be paid at the cabin. From here a right of way leads to the coastpath a short distance from St Loy. Free parking can also be found a mile and a half to the west of St Loy at Penberth.

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West Country Climbs

West Country Climbs is a major Rockfax guide to one of the UK’s most celebrated, sunny and diverse climbing regions. The book is fashioned in Rockfax’s award-winning layout and design, and copiously illustrated with action photographs of the climbs and cliffs that reflect the quality and variety of climbing experiences to be had on offer in the UK’s most popular holiday destination - the West Country. This is a selected route and buttress guidebook which covers the best 900 routes from the crags listed below.
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As fantastic as usual despite the minimal amount of lounging boulders at the bottom. Uncle Nick's pro-parking recommendation is still available and easy to use without blocking access. Finesse is steady E3/4 with only 2 5c friction moves away from good gear and with a possible soft ledge landing. The Baldest is much harder with an okay crux and then several 5b/c friction moves with a 20m fall potential if the very hidden RP is missed. Both excellent routes .
Fiend - 19/Jul/16
Fluke, on the little "island", is a good route but too serious moving off the ledge for VS. In my opinion HVS 5a. Also, there's two huge rocking blocks on the western end of the island summit. It doesn't seem that it would take much to completely dislodge the lower of the two. This is potentially serious, as the upper block forms tempting thread belays for the route Flake, and the lower block hangs above the most obvious easy descent line.
bpmclimb - 31/May/14
Good venue on a showery day. We did Chlorophyll Cluster (worth the journey for that route alone) about an hour after the rain stopped, and it had been raining for about 6hs, and crag was bone dry.
Owen W-G - 10/Jun/09
parking: travel East from the entrance to Treverven Farm. The SECOND field access on the left has some grass verge parking for a couple of cars, and there is more about 800m further East. Don't block the gates ! The top of Sloe Steel has an angry gorse barrier, but it can be traversed round. The abseil tat to the right was added to on 25-6-04.
uncle nick - 28/Jun/04
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Far Left Pinnacles
2 The Mockingjay E1 5a 2
3 Parents, Priests, and Politicians
E6 6a  
4 Co_Extensive Space
E1 5c 4
5 The Unclaimed Crack
E2 5c  
  Main Face
7 Ivy Incorporated
VD 96
8 Chicory Chock HS 4b 70
9 Chicory Check
VS 4b 25
10 Checkmate
E3 6a 5
11 The Snip
E3 6a * 1
12 Harmony
HVS 5b 39
13 Snotter
E3 6a  
14 The Beautiful HVS 5a ** 1
15 The Hairiest
E1 5c 26
16 Old Fools
E3 5c * 15
17 Cress Cendo
VS 5a * 126
18 Chlorophyll Cluster E1 5b ** 140
19 The Baldest E4 5c *** 45
20 The Damned
E5 5c *** 13
21 Supercruise
HVS 4c 102
22 Finesse E4 5c * 50
23 Finesse Super Direct
E7 6b *** 2
24 The Barber
E4 5c 4
25 The Barbary Coast
E3 5c 3
Climb name Grade
26 Sloe Steel
VS 5a 98
27 Mushroom Medley
VD 4
28 Broccoli Bucket
VD 8
29 Cat Follows Mouse
VS 4c 3
30 Suede Squeeze
S 4a 7
31 Loytering
E1 5c 1
32 With Intent
HVS 5a 1
33 Sing Fling
E4 5c  
  Rainbow Buttress
35 Monochrome Men
E1 5b ** 78
36 Scarlet Women
E1 5c * 8
37 Scarlet Women (variation start) E2 5c * 5
  Jammed Block Pinnacle
40 The Flying Fakir
E2 6a 1
41 Raindance
E1 5c 1
42 Erectile Zone
E3 6a  
43 Castle in the Sky HVS 5b 1
  Slapstick Buttress
45 Slapstick
E3 6b 6
46 Margin
E1 5c 4
47 Ibis
E1 5c 5
  Ripple Blocker
49 Ripple Blocker
HVS 6a 7
50 Crack right of Ripple Blocker S 4b 2
Climb name Grade
  Foxbite Buttress
52 Foxbite
VS 5a 2
53 Rabid HVS 5c 1
  Gloy Buttress
55 Yardang
VS 5a 13
56 Sulcus
VS 5a 5
57 Skyfall E7 6b 1
58 Gloy
59 Cenopod Corner HS 4b 26
60 Cenopod Corner Variation VS 5a 2
61 Tingaloy
HS 4b 26
  Test Piece Buttress
63 Sabre Dance
E1 5c * 25
64 Test Piece
E2 5c * 23
65 Smear Fear
E2 5c 16
  The Island - Seaward Face
67 Flake VS 4c * 4
68 Sinister Event VS 5a  
69 Fluke
VS 5a 5
70 Decent Route VD  
  The Island - East Face
72 Roll of the Dice VD  
73 Twist of the Card S 4b  
74 Flip of a Coin VD  
75 Flock Groove HS 5a  

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