Altitude 50m a.s.l
Tom Bunn at the crux of Skyfall. © Tom Last
High-quality routes on flawless granite nicely spread across the grades. Single- and multi-pitch routes up to 120ft. Notable for Chlorophyll Cluster (E1 5b) and The Baldest (E4 6a). Often quiet.
The most convenient parking is at Treverven Farm, where a fee of £3 (2013) should be paid at the cabin. From here a right of way leads to the coastpath a short distance from St Loy. Free parking can also be found a mile and a half to the west of St Loy at Penberth.
|As fantastic as usual despite the minimal amount of lounging boulders at the bottom. Uncle Nick's pro-parking recommendation is still available and easy to use without blocking access. Finesse is steady E3/4 with only 2 5c friction moves away from good gear and with a possible soft ledge landing. The Baldest is much harder with an okay crux and then several 5b/c friction moves with a 20m fall potential if the very hidden RP is missed. Both excellent routes
Fiend - 19/Jul/16
|Fluke, on the little "island", is a good route but too serious moving off the ledge for VS. In my opinion HVS 5a. Also, there's two huge rocking blocks on the western end of the island summit. It doesn't seem that it would take much to completely dislodge the lower of the two. This is potentially serious, as the upper block forms tempting thread belays for the route Flake, and the lower block hangs above the most obvious easy descent line.|
bpmclimb - 31/May/14
|Good venue on a showery day. We did Chlorophyll Cluster (worth the journey for that route alone) about an hour after the rain stopped, and it had been raining for about 6hs, and crag was bone dry.|
Owen W-G - 10/Jun/09
travel East from the entrance to Treverven Farm. The SECOND field access on the left has some grass verge parking for a couple of cars, and there is more about 800m further East. Don't block the gates !
The top of Sloe Steel has an angry gorse barrier, but it can be traversed round. The abseil tat to the right was added to on 25-6-04.|
uncle nick - 28/Jun/04