Climbs 63
Rocktype Granite
Altitude 50m a.s.l
Faces S

Tom Bunn at the crux of Skyfall. © Tom Last

Crag features

High-quality routes on flawless granite nicely spread across the grades. Single- and multi-pitch routes up to 120ft. Notable for Chlorophyll Cluster (E1 5b) and The Baldest (E4 6a). Often quiet.

Approach notes

The most convenient parking is at Treverven Farm, where  a fee of £3 (2013) should be paid at the cabin. From here a right of way leads to the coastpath a short distance from St Loy. Free parking can also be found a mile and a half to the west of St Loy at Penberth.

Rockfax App

Available in the Rockfax App

The Rockfax App brings together all the Rockfax climbing information with UKC logbooks and presents it into a user-friendly package for use on Apple iOS devices (Android version to follow).


Guidebooks

West Country Climbs

West Country Climbs is a major Rockfax guide to one of the UK’s most celebrated, sunny and diverse climbing regions. The book is fashioned in Rockfax’s award-winning layout and design, and copiously illustrated with action photographs of the climbs and cliffs that reflect the quality and variety of climbing experiences to be had on offer in the UK’s most popular holiday destination - the West Country. This is a selected route and buttress guidebook which covers the best 900 routes from the crags listed below.
More info
More Guidebooks:
West Cornwall & Supplement (2000)

Out of print:
As fantastic as usual despite the minimal amount of lounging boulders at the bottom. Uncle Nick's pro-parking recommendation is still available and easy to use without blocking access. Finesse is steady E3/4 with only 2 5c friction moves away from good gear and with a possible soft ledge landing. The Baldest is much harder with an okay crux and then several 5b/c friction moves with a 20m fall potential if the very hidden RP is missed. Both excellent routes .
Fiend - 19/Jul/16
Fluke, on the little "island", is a good route but too serious moving off the ledge for VS. In my opinion HVS 5a. Also, there's two huge rocking blocks on the western end of the island summit. It doesn't seem that it would take much to completely dislodge the lower of the two. This is potentially serious, as the upper block forms tempting thread belays for the route Flake, and the lower block hangs above the most obvious easy descent line.
bpmclimb - 31/May/14
Good venue on a showery day. We did Chlorophyll Cluster (worth the journey for that route alone) about an hour after the rain stopped, and it had been raining for about 6hs, and crag was bone dry.
Owen W-G - 10/Jun/09
parking: travel East from the entrance to Treverven Farm. The SECOND field access on the left has some grass verge parking for a couple of cars, and there is more about 800m further East. Don't block the gates ! The top of Sloe Steel has an angry gorse barrier, but it can be traversed round. The abseil tat to the right was added to on 25-6-04.
uncle nick - 28/Jun/04
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Far Left Pinnacles
2 The Mockingjay E1 5a 2
3 Parents, Priests, and Politicians
-
E6 6a  
4 Co_Extensive Space
-
E1 5c 4
5 The Unclaimed Crack
-
E2 5c  
  Main Face
7 Ivy Incorporated
-
VD 80
8 Chicory Chock HS 4b 62
9 Chicory Check
-
VS 4b 20
10 Checkmate
-
E3 6a 5
11 The Snip
-
E3 6a * 1
12 Harmony
-
HVS 5b 32
13 Snotter
-
E3 6a  
14 The Beautiful HVS 5a ** 1
15 The Hairiest
-
E1 5c 25
16 Old Fools
-
E3 5c * 13
17 Cress Cendo
-
VS 5a * 103
18 Chlorophyll Cluster E1 5b ** 107
19 The Baldest E4 5c *** 34
20 The Damned
-
E5 5c *** 10
21 Supercruise
-
HVS 4c 89
22 Finesse E4 5c * 40
23 Finesse Super Direct
-
E7 6b *** 2
24 The Barber
-
E4 5c 3
25 The Barbary Coast
-
E3 5c 2
26 Sloe Steel
-
VS 5a 79
27 Mushroom Medley
-
VD 3
28 Broccoli Bucket
-
VD 8
29 Cat Follows Mouse
-
VS 4c 2
30 Suede Squeeze
-
S 4a 7
31 Loytering
-
E1 5c 1
32 With Intent
-
HVS 5a 1
33 Sing Fling
-
E4 5c  
  Rainbow Buttress
35 Monochrome Men
-
E1 5b ** 69
36 Scarlet Women
-
E1 5c * 8
37 Scarlet Women (variation start) E2 5c * 2
 
  Jammed Block Pinnacle
40 The Flying Fakir
-
E2 6a 1
41 Raindance
-
E1 5c 1
42 Erectile Zone
-
E3 6a  
43 Castle in the Sky HVS 5b 1
  Slapstick Buttress
45 Slapstick
-
E3 6b 6
46 Margin
-
E1 5c 4
47 Ibis
-
E1 5c 4
  Ripple Blocker
49 Ripple Blocker
-
HVS 6a 7
50 Crack right of Ripple Blocker S 4b 2
  Foxbite Buttress
52 Foxbite
-
VS 5a 2
53 Rabid HVS 5c 1
  Gloy Buttress
55 Yardang
-
VS 5a 10
56 Sulcus
-
VS 5a 4
57 Skyfall E7 6b 1
58 Gloy
-
C2  
59 Cenopod Corner HS 4b 23
60 Cenopod Corner Variation VS 5a 2
61 Tingaloy
-
HS 4b 23
  Test Piece Buttress
63 Sabre Dance
-
E1 5c * 20
64 Test Piece
-
E2 5c * 17
65 Smear Fear
-
E2 5c 14
  The Island - Seaward Face
67 Flake VS 4c * 4
68 Sinister Event VS 5a  
69 Fluke
-
VS 5a 5
70 Decent Route VD  
  The Island - East Face
72 Roll of the Dice VD  
73 Twist of the Card S 4b  
74 Flip of a Coin VD  
75 Flock Groove HS 5a  

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