Please refrain from climbing outside

Due to the ongoing spread of Covid-19, please abstain from climbing outside.

At UKC we are all climbers and we understand the strong urge to be outdoors as the weather is finally improving, but we feel this is no longer socially acceptable. You can read our statement here.

We have suspended the UKC Logbooks Top Ascents and Conditions pages and we will no longer accept ascents dated from 23rd March onwards. You can still upload your historic ascents.

UKClimbing Team

Climbs 30
Rocktype Granite
Altitude 40m a.s.l
Faces SW

View Stats

Tornado southwest of Cribba Head © Tom Last

Crag features

For a small outcrop, it gets a wide range of grades in. There is scope for further development in the mid-grades; the top levels are taken by Storms Over Africa (E6 6c), Pre-Marital Tension (E8 6c) and Question Mark (E8 6c) all of which have seen repeats. A worthwhile afternoon for climbers of all grades.

Approach notes

Park at Treen carpark (off the B3315); alternatively at Penberth. From Treen, turn L and then sharp L to follow a path between houses and over a stone stile. Take the signposted path beside and through fields to the coastal path. Walk E for 250m to the top of a slope: the top of the W Buttress is visible to the R. Follow vague paths through gorse and grass to the broad top of the headland.

Rockfax App

Available in the Rockfax App

The Rockfax App brings together all the Rockfax climbing information with UKC logbooks and presents it into a user-friendly package for use on Android and iOS devices.


West Country Climbs

West Country Climbs is a major Rockfax guide to one of the UK’s most celebrated, sunny and diverse climbing regions. The book is fashioned in Rockfax’s award-winning layout and design, and copiously illustrated with action photographs of the climbs and cliffs that reflect the quality and variety of climbing experiences to be had on offer in the UK’s most popular holiday destination - the West Country. This is a selected route and buttress guidebook which covers the best 900 routes from the crags listed below.
More info
What can I say! From easy to insane 15 meter climbs, with some of the best faces you will see and plenty of spots for top ropes. A great place for all abilities and to push those technical grades. Kernack ** (HVS) is the sort of climb that gets newbies hooked for life, an absolute classic. The only downfall is that one of the most famous climbs in the South Coast area 'Pre-Marital Tension (E6)' is difficult, and not advised, to set up a top rope on. Time to start getting good hey!!
Vaughan Try - 28/May/03
Login as Existing User to add your comments

Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  West Buttress
2 Etron Fou HS 4b 28
3 Bottleneck
VS 5a 24
4 Back to The Grind E3 6a 19
5 Chimney Climb D 10
6 Unlike Siobhan
HVS 4c 12
7 Blood Science E6 6b ** 1
8 Pass The Pigs E4 6a ** 52
9 Lovely, Lovely, Lovely E5 6b ** 20
10 Exclamation Mark E9 6c *** 1
Climb name Grade
11 Question Mark E9 6c ** 1
12 Kernyck HS 4b ** 154
13 Kernack
E1 5b 36
14 Boysen's Groove E3 5c ** 55
15 Pre-Marital Tension E8 6c *** 1
16 Harder VS 4c 114
17 Mary E6 6b 1
18 Storms Over Africa E5 6a * 3
19 Boysen's Cracks E2 5c * 80
20 Sunny Slab
VD 11
Climb name Grade
  The Zawn
22 The Plankton Sanctum E1 5c *  
23 Conan the Cnidarian E3 6a **  
24 Stanstead
S 4a 1
  East Buttress
26 Mink de Ville
VS 5a  
27 Skin Graft E2 5c * 8
28 Geologist's Route
E1 5b * 1
29 Crag X
HVS 5a 4
30 How Much Longer?
VD 2

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Mark Kemball