Climbs 127
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 2m a.s.l
Faces all

View Stats

Using the big holds before the more technical slab © purplemonkeyelephant

Crag features

Blacknor Beach is well known for gentle seaside sport climbing and is often inundated with fledgling climbers making their first brave steps into an exciting new sport. Rather less well known is the collection of boulder problems scattered amongst the numerous gigantic boulders. The bouldering here has a serious feel about it and is not for novices or the faint-hearted. The landings can be rocky and serious so multiple mats and attentive spotters are essential. The rock is rough and occasionally sharp so your hands will take a beating. The lines are big and proud, and often committing - this is the 'Wild West' of Portland bouldering.

Until recently there has only been a handful of sporadic attempts to develop the bouldering in this area. This guide covers the three areas with the shortest walk-ins, which, not surprisingly, have seen the most development, primarily at the hands of Marcus Dymond and Ben Stokes in 2014. Jimbo Kimber and friends climbed a few boulder problems whilst bolting routes at the Lunar Park, but these have been left for your own discovery.

Approach notes

Blacknor Beach is approached from the designated Climbers' and Walkers' car park (fee) at the far south west corner of the housing estate in Weston. Do not park anywhere else in the housing estate. If the car park is full, please park on the main street in Weston, and walk through the estate to the car park. It is also possible to park in Reap Lane.

From the car park, follow the approach to the base of Blacknor South/Central. From here various steep paths descend to the cliffs at sea level.

Rockfax App

Available in the Rockfax App

The Rockfax App brings together all the Rockfax climbing information with UKC logbooks and presents it into a user-friendly package for use on Android and iOS devices.


Guidebooks

Dorset Bouldering

Dorset has emerged as a major bouldering area in recent years thanks to the hard work of a bunch of diligent locals who have combed the coastline seeking out every block, problem and traverse. In addition to the well known areas of the Cuttings, the Boulderfield and the Neddyfields, the book has extensive information on the West Coast of Portland, many more areas on the East Coast, plus Swanage and Lulworth. It describes over 1500 boulder problems on over 350 pages.
More info

Dorset

The latest edition of the Dorset Rockfax features the now widely acclaimed full-page colour topos, and includes all the new lines in the areas previously covered, as well as many entirely new sectors. The crags are illustrated using bigger topos and there is a complete new set of action photos. This new Rockfax guide will concentrate on Portland, Swanage and Lulworth, covering all the sport routes in these areas, and also the bulk of the quality trad climbing at Swanage and Lulworth. Coverage of bouldering and deep water soloing, along with all the routes in Devon have migrated from this book.
More info
More Guidebooks:

Out of print:
There are no comments from visitors to this crag.
Login as Existing User to add your comments

Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Lunar Park
2 Solar Flare 3c * 45
3 Sun Spot 5a * 27
4 Sea of Tranquillity S * 44
5 Moonshine 3a * 91
6 Walking on the Moon 4a * 34
7 Dark Side of the Moon 4a * 84
8 Lunar Eclipse 2a * 90
9 Half Moon 2c * 39
10 Full Moon 5c * 46
  Diamond Slabs
12 Rough Diamond 4a * 307
13 Diamond Geezer 5a * 497
14 Diamond Boulder 4a ** 525
15 Diamond Edge 4a * 438
16 The Hardye Girls 6c+ 41
17 Tom's Way 2a * 23
18 Diamond Solitaire 3a * 236
19 Portland Snowshine 3c * 238
  Jacuzzi Boulder
21 Twisting by the Pool 6a * 5
22 Shades of the Deep 6a * 7
23 Jaws 6a 7
24 Reservoir Dogfish 6a * 8
  Triple Slabs
26 Retraction VD 13
27 My Little Buddha 2c * 636
28 Slabtastic (Sunday Swing) 3a * 611
29 Suburban Dave 3a * 516
30 Sketchtastic 3c * 330
31 The Mystical Gill 3c * 185
32 The Erogenous Stone
-
VS 4b * 58
33 Mystic Crack D 24
34 A Nugget of Purest Green 4a 176
35 Vertical Thrill 4a * 312
36 The Bolt Factory 4c * 357
37 Last Suitcase Before the Holocaust
-
E1 5b * 40
  Fallen Slab
39 Crack Minuit HS 3
40 Six Good Biceps 4c ** 691
41 Losing My Sad Tomato 6c * 81
42 Broken Trail VD 18
43 Le Cranium Cassé 6a+ * 288
44 Fallen Slab Arête 3a *** 2030
45 Fallen Slab 3a *** 1637
46 Intermediate Route
-
4b 248
Climb name Grade
47 Right Hand Route
-
VD 85
  Bouldering
  Diamond and Triple Slabs Area
50 Sharps Hazard f5+ * 2
51 The Edge of the Developed World f5+ 2
52 Fairy Steps f4 ** 3
53 Rough Dymond f7A ** 3
54 Peg Leg Slab f3 3
55 Where Angels Dare to Tread f7A *** 2
56 Shale Rider f6B+ ** 1
57 Three Shale Mary's f6B * 1
58 Holy Shale f6A+ *  
59 Shale Trails f4+ * 1
60 Not in Your Lifetime f6A * 1
61 He Who Hesitates f6B+ ** 1
62 Hesitation Slab f4+ 2
63 Don't Look Now f6A *  
64 One You Can Do f6B+ * 1
65 Bleau Magique f7A+ **  
66 Lucilla Rose f4+ *  
67 Performance Anxiety f4+ *  
68 Performance Anxiety, Sit-start f6A **  
69 Highwayman f7A **  
70 High Treason f6C+ **  
71 High Plains Drifter f5+ *** 1
  Waterfall Area
73 Pause for Thought f6A *  
74 Fire Escape f6A  
75 Pythagoras' Theorem f6C **  
76 Scoop Dogg f5+ * 4
77 Notorious P.U.G. f4 * 3
78 Canine West f5+ * 1
79 Beagle Smalls f3 * 1
80 Procrastination f5 *  
81 Hankering f6B ** 2
82 Helmut Hauser f6A * 1
83 Ramble On f5+ 1
84 Copper Nano Tubes f5 * 1
85 n-2 f6C+ ** 1
86 The nth Power f6C+ **  
87 The nth Degree f4+ * 2
88 Spinal Traction f6C+ **  
89 Chancing Hernia f6C *  
90 Hydrophobia f4+ *  
91 Rabid f6A * 3
92 Rostrom f6A * 1
Climb name Grade
93 Aquatic Ape f5+ * 1
94 Cetacean Transition f5 * 1
95 Rise of the Tetrapod f6A+ *  
96 Tachycardia f6A ** 2
97 Tachycardia, Low Start f6B *** 2
98 Turning the Cheek f3 * 1
99 Twerking Slab f4+ * 1
100 Parkin Slab f4+ * 1
101 Pure Laudanum f6C ** 1
102 Senna Pod f6C *** 2
  Fallen Slab Area
104 Organ Grinder f6B+ *  
105 Tenacious D f6C *  
106 Rail Grind f6C+ *  
107 Early Exit f5+ * 1
108 Double Dip f6A * 1
109 Fallen Hawser f6A ** 2
110 Easy Game f6C ** 1
111 Stan the Tan f5 * 2
112 Groove Rider f4+ * 1
113 Standing Wave f4+ * 1
114 Sambuca Nights f5+ * 2
115 Some Don't Like it When it's Hot f6C * 1
116 Aniserete f6B ** 3
117 Quantum Tunnelling f6C+ * 1
118 Safe Word f6C ** 2
119 Banana Sambuca 4c 12
120 Flaming Sambuca f6B ** 5
121 Bronzing Uranus f6C+ ** 2
122 Friendly Fire Over Weymouth f6B+ ** 2
123 Fire in the Hold f6A+ * 1
124 Fake Tan Surprise f2 * 2
125 Love Handles f2+ * 8
126 Burning Love f3 * 2
127 Underworld f7A ** 3
128 Damp Course f6A * 1
129 Damp Rising f6B *  
130 Sanguinarian f6A * 1
131 Blood Play f6C * 1
132 Skin Flick f6C ** 1
133 Male Faecal Synchrony f6A * 2
134 Gone and Ruined Everything f5+ * 1
135 Shelly * 3a 10
136 Subtitles for the Hard of Thinking * 3a 12
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Ben Stokes