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Using the big holds before the more technical slab © purplemonkeyelephant

Crag features

Blacknor Beach is well known for gentle seaside sport climbing and is often inundated with fledgling climbers making their first brave steps into an exciting new sport. Rather less well known is the collection of boulder problems scattered amongst the numerous gigantic boulders. The bouldering here has a serious feel about it and is not for novices or the faint-hearted. The landings can be rocky and serious so multiple mats and attentive spotters are essential. The rock is rough and occasionally sharp so your hands will take a beating. The lines are big and proud, and often committing - this is the 'Wild West' of Portland bouldering.

Until recently there has only been a handful of sporadic attempts to develop the bouldering in this area. This guide covers the three areas with the shortest walk-ins, which, not surprisingly, have seen the most development, primarily at the hands of Marcus Dymond and Ben Stokes in 2014. Jimbo Kimber and friends climbed a few boulder problems whilst bolting routes at the Lunar Park, but these have been left for your own discovery.

Approach notes

Blacknor Beach is approached from the designated Climbers' and Walkers' car park (fee) at the far south west corner of the housing estate in Weston. Do not park anywhere else in the housing estate. If the car park is full, please park on the main street in Weston, and walk through the estate to the car park. It is also possible to park in Reap Lane.

From the car park, follow the approach to the base of Blacknor South/Central. From here various steep paths descend to the cliffs at sea level.

Rockfax App

Available in the Rockfax App

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Guidebooks

Dorset Bouldering

Dorset has emerged as a major bouldering area in recent years thanks to the hard work of a bunch of diligent locals who have combed the coastline seeking out every block, problem and traverse. In addition to the well known areas of the Cuttings, the Boulderfield and the Neddyfields, the book has extensive information on the West Coast of Portland, many more areas on the East Coast, plus Swanage and Lulworth. It describes over 1500 boulder problems on over 350 pages.
More info

Dorset

The latest edition of the Dorset Rockfax features the now widely acclaimed full-page colour topos, and includes all the new lines in the areas previously covered, as well as many entirely new sectors. The crags are illustrated using bigger topos and there is a complete new set of action photos. This new Rockfax guide will concentrate on Portland, Swanage and Lulworth, covering all the sport routes in these areas, and also the bulk of the quality trad climbing at Swanage and Lulworth. Coverage of bouldering and deep water soloing, along with all the routes in Devon have migrated from this book.
More info
More Guidebooks:

Out of print:
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Lunar Park
2 Solar Flare 3c * 44
3 Sun Spot 5a * 26
4 Sea of Tranquillity S * 44
5 Moonshine 3a * 88
6 Walking on the Moon 4a * 34
7 Dark Side of the Moon 4a * 83
8 Lunar Eclipse 2a * 89
9 Half Moon 2c * 39
10 Full Moon 5c * 46
  Diamond Slabs
12 Rough Diamond 4a * 293
13 Diamond Geezer 5a * 488
14 Diamond Boulder 4a ** 517
15 Diamond Edge 4a * 428
16 The Hardye Girls 6c+ 40
17 Tom's Way 2a * 23
18 Diamond Solitaire 3a * 230
19 Portland Snowshine 3c * 232
  Jacuzzi Boulder
21 Twisting by the Pool 6a * 5
22 Shades of the Deep 6a * 7
23 Jaws 6a 7
24 Reservoir Dogfish 6a * 8
  Triple Slabs
26 Retraction VD 12
27 My Little Buddha 2c * 632
28 Route between My Little Buddha & Sunday Swing
-
2a 5
29 Slabtastic (Sunday swing) 3a * 603
30 Suburban Dave 3a * 515
31 Sketchtastic 3c * 329
32 The Mystical Gill 3c * 184
33 The Erogenous Stone
-
VS 4b * 58
34 Mystic Crack D 24
35 A Nugget of Purest Green 4a 174
36 Vertical Thrill 4a * 310
37 The Bolt Factory 4c * 356
38 Last Suitcase Before the Holocaust
-
E1 5b * 40
  Fallen Slab
40 Crack Minuit HS 3
41 Six Good Biceps 4c ** 685
42 Losing My Sad Tomato 6c * 81
43 Broken Trail VD 18
44 Le Cranium Cassé 6a+ * 284
45 Fallen Slab Arête 3a *** 2004
46 Fallen Slab 3a *** 1616
Climb name Grade
47 Intermediate Route
-
4b 241
48 Right Hand Route
-
VD 84
  Bouldering
  Diamond and Triple Slabs Area
51 Sharps Hazard f5+ * 2
52 The Edge of the Developed World f5+ 2
53 Fairy Steps f4 ** 3
54 Rough Dymond f7A ** 3
55 Peg Leg Slab f3 3
56 Where Angels Dare to Tread f7A *** 2
57 Shale Rider f6B+ ** 1
58 Three Shale Mary's f6B * 1
59 Holy Shale f6A+ *  
60 Shale Trails f4+ * 1
61 Not in Your Lifetime f6A * 1
62 He Who Hesitates f6B+ ** 1
63 Hesitation Slab f4+ 2
64 Don't Look Now f6A *  
65 One You Can Do f6B+ * 1
66 Bleau Magique f7A+ **  
67 Lucilla Rose f4+ *  
68 Performance Anxiety f4+ *  
69 Performance Anxiety, Sit-start f6A **  
70 Highwayman f7A **  
71 High Treason f6C+ **  
72 High Plains Drifter f5+ *** 1
  Waterfall Area
74 Pause for Thought f6A *  
75 Fire Escape f6A  
76 Pythagoras' Theorem f6C **  
77 Scoop Dogg f5+ * 4
78 Notorious P.U.G. f4 * 3
79 Canine West f5+ * 1
80 Beagle Smalls f3 * 1
81 Procrastination f5 *  
82 Hankering f6B ** 2
83 Helmut Hauser f6A * 1
84 Ramble On f5+ 1
85 Copper Nano Tubes f5 * 1
86 n-2 f6C+ ** 1
87 The nth Power f6C+ **  
88 The nth Degree f4+ * 2
89 Spinal Traction f6C+ **  
90 Chancing Hernia f6C *  
91 Hydrophobia f4+ *  
92 Rabid f6A * 3
Climb name Grade
93 Rostrom f6A * 1
94 Aquatic Ape f5+ * 1
95 Cetacean Transition f5 * 1
96 Rise of the Tetrapod f6A+ *  
97 Tachycardia f6A ** 2
98 Tachycardia, Low Start f6B *** 2
99 Turning the Cheek f3 * 1
100 Twerking Slab f4+ * 1
101 Parkin Slab f4+ * 1
102 Pure Laudanum f6C ** 1
103 Senna Pod f6C *** 2
  Fallen Slab Area
105 Organ Grinder f6B+ *  
106 Tenacious D f6C *  
107 Rail Grind f6C+ *  
108 Early Exit f5+ * 1
109 Double Dip f6A * 1
110 Fallen Hawser f6A ** 2
111 Easy Game f6C ** 1
112 Stan the Tan f5 * 2
113 Groove Rider f4+ * 1
114 Standing Wave f4+ * 1
115 Sambuca Nights f5+ * 2
116 Some Don't Like it When it's Hot f6C * 1
117 Aniserete f6B ** 3
118 Quantum Tunnelling f6C+ * 1
119 Safe Word f6C ** 2
120 Banana Sambuca 4c 12
121 Flaming Sambuca f6B ** 5
122 Bronzing Uranus f6C+ ** 2
123 Friendly Fire Over Weymouth f6B+ ** 2
124 Fire in the Hold f6A+ * 1
125 Fake Tan Surprise f2 * 2
126 Love Handles f2+ * 8
127 Burning Love f3 * 2
128 Underworld f7A ** 3
129 Damp Course f6A * 1
130 Damp Rising f6B *  
131 Sanguinarian f6A * 1
132 Blood Play f6C * 1
133 Skin Flick f6C ** 1
134 Male Faecal Synchrony f6A * 2
135 Gone and Ruined Everything f5+ * 1
  Fallen Slab Beach Boulders
137 Shelly * 3a 10
138 Subtitles for the Hard of Thinking * 3a 12
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Ben Stokes