Using the big holds before the more technical slab © purplemonkeyelephant
Blacknor Beach is well known for gentle seaside sport climbing and is often inundated with fledgling climbers making their first brave steps into an exciting new sport. Rather less well known is the collection of boulder problems scattered amongst the numerous gigantic boulders. The bouldering here has a serious feel about it and is not for novices or the faint-hearted. The landings can be rocky and serious so multiple mats and attentive spotters are essential. The rock is rough and occasionally sharp so your hands will take a beating. The lines are big and proud, and often committing - this is the 'Wild West' of Portland bouldering.
Until recently there has only been a handful of sporadic attempts to develop the bouldering in this area. This guide covers the three areas with the shortest walk-ins, which, not surprisingly, have seen the most development, primarily at the hands of Marcus Dymond and Ben Stokes in 2014. Jimbo Kimber and friends climbed a few boulder problems whilst bolting routes at the Lunar Park, but these have been left for your own discovery.
Blacknor Beach is approached from the designated Climbers' and Walkers' car park (fee) at the far south west corner of the housing estate in Weston. Do not park anywhere else in the housing estate. If the car park is full, please park on the main street in Weston, and walk through the estate to the car park. It is also possible to park in Reap Lane.
From the car park, follow the approach to the base of Blacknor South/Central. From here various steep paths descend to the cliffs at sea level.
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