Climbs 130
Rocktype Granite

Faces S

View Stats

Becky, terriers tooth © ben_lea

Crag features

A huge and intricate sea cliff offering stunning multi-pitch routes up to 70 m, mostly in the S to E1 grades. Solid and endowed with cracks and holds. Must-dos include Pendulum Chimney (S), Pegasus (HS), South Face Direct (VS 4c), Diocese (VS 5a), Bishops Rib (E1 5b).
Note that the start of the classic Terrier's Tooth was destroyed by rockfall in early 2014. It is now harder and less pleasant than before.

The base of many routes can only be reached for three hours either side of low tide. However, worthwhile climbing can still be found at high tide, for example
- traverse onto Wolf Buttress from Ash Can Gully to do Aerial or Corporals Route.
- climb The Mitre starting in Pinnacle Gully
- abseil down East Chimney to get to the start of South Face Direct and Pendulum Chimney (calm seas only).

Nesting fulmars can be a problem in spring and early summer, especially on Bulging Wall and the Main Cliff.

Approach notes

Park at the Porthgwarra car park (pay and display, may become busy in summer and holidays). Follow the tarmac lane uphill past granite buildings on the left. Follow the road in a loop to the left above the houses, then take the path right across heathland to the coastguard lookout. Only the summits of the buttresses can be seen from this level; take care to orient yourself before heading down. Ash Can Gully is the broad gully below the lookout.

Restricted Access

The crag is south facing for the most part and quick drying, especially with a bit of sea breeze. However, it's worth bearing in mind that traversing along the platform at the base of the crag (needed to get to most routes) can be exciting in anything other than calm seas. The traverse is generally accessible 3 hours either side of high tide for most of the crag and the base of Terrier's Tooth and Bishop's Buttress for slightly longer, although these times are significantly reduced during neap tides. During high tides or when big seas are running, it is also possible to abseil in to the upper pitches of several routes.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 24 May to 30 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

The restriction applies from Lacertion to The Mitre.

Rockfax App

Available in the Rockfax App

The Rockfax App brings together all the Rockfax climbing information with UKC logbooks and presents it into a user-friendly package for use on Android and iOS devices.


Guidebooks

West Country Climbs

West Country Climbs is a major Rockfax guide to one of the UK’s most celebrated, sunny and diverse climbing regions. The book is fashioned in Rockfax’s award-winning layout and design, and copiously illustrated with action photographs of the climbs and cliffs that reflect the quality and variety of climbing experiences to be had on offer in the UK’s most popular holiday destination - the West Country. This is a selected route and buttress guidebook which covers the best 900 routes from the crags listed below.
More info
There are no comments from visitors to this crag.
Login as Existing User to add your comments

Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Zawn Rinny
2 Consolation Climb
-
VD 2
3 The Naked Edge
-
E5 6b  
4 The Groove
-
E2 5c ** 1
5 Aquiline
-
E1 5a  
6 Rinny Wall
-
HVS 4c  
7 Illusion
-
VS 5a  
  Bulging Wall
9 Maureen
-
HS 4b 24
10 The Gingerbread Crack
-
E1 5c * 10
11 The Great Beast Unleashed
-
E2 6a 2
12 Overhanging Chimney
-
VS 4c 30
13 Pop Will Eat Its Self HVS 5a *  
14 Kittiwake HVS 5a ** 93
15 Seal Slab VS 4c ** 340
16 Great Slab Route
-
D 38
17 Pegasus HS 4b *** 480
18 West Face Direct E2 5c ** 15
19 Rake's Progress VD ** 127
20 Medusa
-
VS 4b  
21 Altered Images
-
E1 5b 1
22 Kaleidoscope
-
VS 4c * 21
  Main Cliff
24 Free Ride
-
E1 5b 1
25 Western Arete
-
HS 4c 11
26 Great Western Arete
-
HVS 5b * 9
27 Western Chimneys
-
D 15
28 The Thin Red Line
-
E3 5c  
29 Beaujolais
-
E1 5b  
30 Scarlet Pimpernel
-
E3 5c * 8
31 The Red Tower
-
E5 6a * 2
32 Red Wall S 4a ** 184
33 Suicide Crack
-
S 4b 1
34 Centre Piece
-
E2 5c * 5
35 Central Route
-
HVS 5a * 10
36 Central Buttress Chimneys
-
VD 2
37 Halfway House
-
VS 4c *  
38 The Shadows
-
VS 5a 2
39 Neptune
-
VS 4c * 32
40 Excelsior E1 5b ** 148
41 Pendulum Chimney S 4b *** 662
42 Detergent Wall
-
HVS 4c ** 50
43 South Face Direct VS 4c *** 852
44 Southern Arete
-
E5 6a  
45 Cleft Route
-
D 12
46 East Chimney
-
VD 17
Climb name Grade
  South-East Buttress
48 Almost
-
VD 2
49 South-East Face Direct
-
HVS 5a * 9
50 Love 30
-
E1 5a *  
51 Hysterical Hamsters
-
E4 6b * 2
52 The Buccaneer
-
VS 4c * 55
53 Dexter Crack HS 4b * 35
54 Mermaid's Route VD * 96
55 Original Route VD * 30
  Ash Can Gully Area
57 Nearly
-
VS 4c * 6
58 Not Right
-
HVS 5a  
59 Just About
-
E1 5b 7
60 Not Quite
-
HS 4c 6
61 Legoland
-
E4 5c  
62 Cave Route
-
HS 4b 12
63 The Lobster
-
E6 6b  
64 Sea Horse
-
HVS 5b * 8
  Wolf Buttress
66 Wolverine Chimney
-
VD 62
67 Giant Steps S 40
68 Corporal's Route
-
HS 4b * 83
69 Aerial VS 4c ** 191
70 Animated Wall E6 6a ** 1
71 Caliban E3 6a * 6
72 The Tempest E6 6b ** 2
73 Rats In A Rage
-
E6 6c  
74 Cut-Off
-
S * 13
75 Laceration
-
HVS 5a 9
  Bishop Buttress
77 Raider's Route
-
D 3
78 Flannel Avenue HS 4b *** 286
79 Mine Climb
-
HVS 5a 9
80 Diocese VS 5a *** 699
81 The Surfboard
-
E1 5b 4
82 The Crusader
-
VS 5a * 1
83 Bishop's Arete HVS 5a ** 44
84 Bishop's Arete / Rib Combination HVS 5a ** 3
85 The Steeple
-
E3 6a * 4
86 The Spire E3 5c ** 36
87 Bishop's Rib E1 5b *** 522
88 Cardinal Sin
-
E5 6b * 1
89 Space Chase
-
HVS 5b 1
  Mitre Gully
91 The Mitre
-
VS 4c ** 105
92 The Pawn
-
VS 4c 9
Climb name Grade
93 Ratcatcher
-
E2 5b 3
  Pinnacle Gully
95 Lizzy's Folly
-
D * 14
96 Zola's Walkies D 5
  The Pinnacle
98 Fat City E1 6a 1
99 Blockbuster E4 5c 1
100 Golden Rabbit E3 5b  
101 Expresso Bonzo E1 5b * 38
102 Terrier's Tooth (Pre-2014) HS *** 777
103 Terrier's Tooth HS 4b *** 263
104 Toothache
-
VS 4c 8
105 Grit Exiles
-
E2 5b * 7
106 Masquerade
-
E2 5c 3
107 Asterix In Cornwall
-
VS 5a 3
108 Dangle And Mangle
-
HVS 5a 4
109 Nutcracker
-
VS 4c 7
110 The Mauler
-
HVS 5a 1
111 Dracula The Undead
-
E6 6b * 3
112 Oral Cavity * VD  
  Girdle Traverses
114 The Girdle Traverse
-
S 7
115 The Bishop's Chain
-
VS 1
  Runnelstone Buttress
117 Dodge City
-
VS 4c * 2
118 Dodger's Chimney
-
D 19
119 Lies, Lies, Lies
-
VS 4c 1
120 Close To The Edge
-
HVS 5a 2
121 La Speciale
-
HVS 5a 1
122 Mini Minx Chimney
-
VD 3
123 Iron Maiden
-
VS 4c  
124 Dead Head Crack HS 4b * 1
  Coliseum Wall
126 Nautilus
-
HVS 4c 2
127 Moon Dog
-
HVS 4c  
128 Softly-Softly
-
HVS 4c 1
129 The Great Divide
-
E2 5c * 1
130 Private Performance
-
E1 5b * 4
131 Midnight Runner
-
E1 5b ** 10
132 The Gladiator
-
HVS 5a  
133 Rock Pilgrim
-
HVS 4c 1
134 Super Vision
-
E3 5c **  
135 Fury Of Atlanta
-
E4 6a  
136 Master Of Disaster
-
E4 5b  
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Bob M