Climbs 130
Rocktype Granite
Altitude Tidal
Faces S

Becky, terriers tooth © ben_lea

Crag features

A huge and intricate sea cliff offering stunning multi-pitch routes up to 70 m, mostly in the S to E1 grades. Solid and endowed with cracks and holds. Must-dos include Pendulum Chimney (S), Pegasus (HS), South Face Direct (VS 4c), Diocese (VS 5a), Bishops Rib (E1 5b).
Note that the start of the classic Terrier's Tooth was affected by rockfall in early 2014. It is now harder and less pleasant than before.

Approach notes

Park at the Porthgwarra car park (pay and display, may become busy in summer and holidays). Follow the tarmac lane uphill past granite buildings on the left. Follow the road in a loop to the left above the houses, then take the path right across heathland to the coastguard lookout. Only the summits of the buttresses can be seen from this level; take care to orient yourself before heading down. Ash Can Gully is the broad gully below the lookout.

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Guidebooks

West Country Climbs

West Country Climbs is a major Rockfax guide to one of the UK’s most celebrated, sunny and diverse climbing regions. The book is fashioned in Rockfax’s award-winning layout and design, and copiously illustrated with action photographs of the climbs and cliffs that reflect the quality and variety of climbing experiences to be had on offer in the UK’s most popular holiday destination - the West Country. This is a selected route and buttress guidebook which covers the best 900 routes from the crags listed below.
More info
TERRIERS TOOTH ROCK FALL... pitch of terriers tooth has been taken by the sea! both starts and the ledge which was the 1st belay stance have now gone leaving a slab of smooth granite and some loose rock, it is climbable but a a different grade and with less gear
Stu Bradbury - 22/Feb/14
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Zawn Rinny
2 Consolation Climb
-
VD 2
3 The Naked Edge
-
E5 6b  
4 The Groove
-
E2 5c ** 1
5 Aquiline
-
E1 5a  
6 Rinny Wall
-
HVS 4c  
7 Illusion
-
VS 5a  
  Bulging Wall
9 Maureen
-
HS 4b 19
10 The Gingerbread Crack
-
E2 5c * 8
11 The Great Beast Unleashed
-
E2 6a 1
12 Overhanging Chimney
-
VS 4c * 29
13 Pop Will Eat Its Self HVS 5a  
14 Kittiwake HVS 5a ** 89
15 Seal Slab VS 4c ** 319
16 Great Slab Route
-
D 36
17 Pegasus HS 4b *** 481
18 West Face Direct E2 5c ** 19
19 Rake's Progress VD ** 114
20 Altered Images
-
E1 5b 1
21 Kaleidoscope
-
VS 4c * 23
22 Medusa
-
VS 4b  
  Main Cliff
24 Free Ride
-
HVS 5a 1
25 Western Arete
-
HS 4c 8
26 Great Western Arete
-
HVS 5b * 7
27 Western Chimneys
-
D 15
28 The Thin Red Line
-
E2 5c  
29 Beaujolais
-
E1 5b  
30 Scarlet Pimpernel
-
E3 5c * 8
31 The Red Tower
-
E4 6a * 2
32 Red Wall S 4a ** 161
33 Suicide Crack
-
S 4b 1
34 Centre Piece
-
E2 5c * 5
35 Central Route
-
HVS 5a * 8
36 Central Buttress Chimneys
-
VD 2
37 Halfway House
-
VS 4c  
38 The Shadows
-
VS 5a  
39 Neptune
-
VS 4c * 30
40 Excelsior E1 5b ** 126
41 Pendulum Chimney S 4b *** 591
42 Detergent Wall
-
HVS 4c * 43
43 South Face Direct VS 4c *** 799
44 Southern Arete
-
E4 6a  
45 Cleft Route
-
D 9
46 East Chimney
-
D 15
  South-East Buttress
48 Almost
-
VD 2
49 South-East Face Direct
-
VS 4c * 8
50 Love 30
-
E1 5a  
51 Hysterical Hamsters
-
E4 6b * 2
52 The Buccaneer
-
VS 4c * 51
53 Dexter Crack S 4a * 37
54 Mermaid's Route VD * 80
55 Original Route VD 23
  Ash Can Gully Area
57 Nearly
-
HVS 5a * 9
58 Not Right
-
VS 5a  
59 Just About
-
E1 5b 6
60 Not Quite
-
HS 4c 5
61 Legoland
-
E4 5c  
62 Lizzy's Folly
-
VD 3
63 Cave Route
-
HS 4b 8
64 The Lobster
-
E6 6b  
65 Sea Horse
-
HVS 5b 6
  Wolf Buttress
67 Wolverine Chimney
-
VD 52
68 Giant Steps S 36
69 Corporal's Route
-
HS 4b * 81
70 Aerial VS 4c ** 178
71 Animated Wall E5 6a ** 1
72 Caliban E3 6a * 6
73 The Tempest E5 6b ** 2
74 Rats In A Rage
-
E6 6c  
75 Cut-Off
-
S 10
76 Laceration
-
HVS 5a 9
  Bishop Buttress
78 Raider's Route
-
D 3
79 Flannel Avenue HS 4b *** 290
80 Mine Climb
-
HVS 5a 9
81 Diocese VS 5a *** 742
82 The Surfboard
-
HVS 5b 4
83 Bishop's Arete HVS 5a ** 36
84 Bishop's Arete / Rib Combination HVS 5a ** 2
85 The Steeple
-
E3 6a * 4
86 The Spire E3 5c ** 37
87 Bishop's Rib E1 5b *** 528
88 Cardinal Sin
-
E4 6b * 1
89 Space Chase
-
HVS 5b 1
90 The Mitre
-
VS 4c ** 109
91 The Pawn
-
VS 4c 19
92 Ratcatcher
-
E2 5b 3
  The Pinnacle
94 Fat City E1 6a 1
95 Blockbuster E4 5c 1
96 Golden Rabbit E3 5b  
97 Expresso Bonzo E1 5b * 39
98 Terrier's Tooth (Pre-2014) VD *** 760
99 Terrier's Tooth HS 4b *** 276
100 Grit Exiles
-
E2 5b * 7
101 Masquerade
-
E2 5c 3
102 Toothache
-
VS 4c 8
103 Asterix In Cornwall
-
VS 5a 3
104 Dangle And Mangle
-
VS 5a 2
105 Nutcracker
-
VS 4c 6
106 The Mauler
-
HVS 5a 1
107 Dracula The Undead
-
E6 6b 2
  Girdle Traverses
109 The Girdle Traverse
-
S 3
110 The Bishop's Chain
-
VS 1
  Runnelstone Buttress
112 White Slab M 7
113 White Slab Right D 2
114 Dodge City
-
HVS 5a 2
115 Dodger's Chimney
-
D 21
116 Close To The Edge
-
HVS 5a 2
117 La Speciale
-
HVS 5a 1
118 Dead Head Crack HS 4b * 1
119 Mini Minx Chimney
-
VD 3
120 Iron Maiden
-
VS 4c  
121 Nautilus
-
HVS 4c 2
122 Moon Dog
-
HVS 4c  
123 Softly-Softly
-
HVS 4c 1
124 The Great Divide
-
E2 5c * 1
125 Private Performance
-
HVS 5a * 4
126 Midnight Runner
-
E1 5b ** 10
127 The Gladiator
-
HVS 5a  
128 Rock Pilgrim
-
HVS 4c 1
129 Super Vision
-
E3 5c **  
130 Fury Of Atlanta
-
E4 6a  
131 Master Of Disaster
-
E4 5b  
132 Lies, Lies, Lies
-
VS 4c 1

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