Climbs 75
Rocktype Sandstone (hard)
Altitude 582m a.s.l
Faces all

Crag features

There are two crags on Lion's Head, one is Granite and the other is Sandstone. The sandstone climbing is on the concentric rings of rock at the top of the mountain (the Lion's Head part), while the granite climbing is on the huge Huguenot Slab, a short distance above the houses of Fresnaye/Bantry Bay and facing the sea and Robben Island.

There are some single pitch sport routes on the granite, but mostly they are multi-pitch trad routes. Climbing on the sandstone is all trad, with a mix of single pitch and multi-pitch routes, depending on the bands, ledges, vegetation and rock quality. 

Good topo here:

http://www.climbing.co.za/wiki/Lion%27s_Head

Approach notes

Drive up Kloof Nek Road from Cape Town centre. At the intersection at the top where you can turn left to Table Mountain or continue down to Camp's Bay, take a right turn onto the Lion's Head/Signal Hill Road. Drive up the steep road. After about a kilometre the road flattens and you come to the first big parking area that also has a wooden guard house. This is the parking area if you want to climb on the sandstone crags. You will notice a steep dirt track with a boom heading up the mountain. This is it.

To get to the Granite continue driving along the road until you come up the small Muslim Kramat. This is a little white building with a domed roof. Park in this area. From this spot walk towards the Atlantic Ocean then turn left so you're walking towards Lion's Head but heading a little seawards (southwest). You will be on a good path, when you walk past the wood and concrete bench, look to the right for a small path which traverses across (aim for the Bluegum trees) to reach the Granite.

Guidebooks

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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Lions Head Sandstone
  Wally's Sector
3 Power Struggle E4  
4 Kalashnikov E1 5b ** 1
5 Heavy Breather HVS  
6 Poke in the eye VS 1
7 The Inspirer HVS 1
8 Feathered Delight HVS 2
9 Uncle Albert VS 2
10 Rodney HVS 3
11 Ayoba E3  
12 Lovely Jubbly HVS 1
13 Yellow Canary HS 4
14 The Craving E1 5b ** 1
15 Plonker's Paradise VS 4
  Geo-Cache Sector
17 Ballard Of A Teenage Queen E2 5c *** 1
18 Folsom Prison Blues 12 * 1
19 Highwayman 14 *** 3
20 Luther Played the Boogie S 1
  White Face Sector
22 White Face 9 *** 3
23 Rumpelstiltskin VS ** 1
  Lookout Sector
  Clifton - Left Sector
26 Mane Lion
-
VS 1
27 Clifton Crest
-
VS 4c *** 2
  Silouette Sector
  Clifton - Right Sector
30 Aquanaut
-
15 *** 1
Climb name Grade
  Clifton - Top Sector
  Lion's Head Granite
  Main Face
34 DSLG
-
13 *  
35 Silhouette Face
-
13 *  
36 Silhouette Crack
-
13 ** 3
37 Millions
-
19 *** 2
38 Weird Scenes inside the Goldmine
-
21 **  
39 Mini - Millions
-
13 *  
40 D Route
-
9 **  
41 C Route
-
8 **  
  Blue Max Sector
43 The Amazing Incredible Cookie Monster
-
23 *  
44 Romeo
-
19 *  
45 Juliet
-
23 *  
46 Private Investigations
-
23 **  
47 Blue Max 19 **  
48 The Horror
-
24 *  
  Huguenot Sector
50 Cave Overhang
-
17 **  
51 Cave Overhang (Variation)
-
17 **  
52 Tea-Time is Over
-
24 **  
53 Heart of Darkness
-
23 **  
54 Free at Last
-
24 **  
55 Depraved
-
17 *  
56 Huguenot Wall
-
14 *** 3
57 Huguenot Wall (Variation)
-
13 *  
58 Raincheck
-
15  
59 Huguenot
-
13 *  
60 Huguenot Crag
-
18 ** 1
61 Tea-Trolley Crack
-
17 ** 3
Climb name Grade
62 Itch Factor
-
19  
63 Daylight Robbery
-
24 **  
64 Bastille Crack
-
20 *** 1
65 Hide and Seek
-
11 * 1
  de Bruin Sector
67 Scratch
-
17 *** 2
68 Aqualung
-
16 **  
69 Crystal Loneliness
-
18 **  
70 De Bruin Damage
-
19 *** 3
71 Cross Cracks
-
12 ***  
72 Scary Crack
-
17 *** 1
73 Angry Face
-
17 ** 1
74 Brain Drain
-
19 *  
75 Jono Fishers Project
-
18 **  
76 The Return of Edi
-
23 **  
  Jampuff Sector
78 Jampuff
-
16 **  
79 Visions of Ed
-
24 **  
80 Scottini's Chimmney
-
12 *  
81 Fighting Senility
-
25 **  
82 Knuckleduster
-
18 **  
83 White Knuckle Wafer
-
19  
  The Encore Boulder
85 On Cord
-
16 **  
86 Unknown 1
-
21 *  
87 Unknown 2
-
18 *  
88 Unknown 3
-
15 *  
  Unknown
90 Lion's head
-
4c 1
91 Kitty-cat
-
9 * 1
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

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