Climbs 103
Rocktype Sandstone (soft)
Altitude 4m a.s.l
Faces SE

Crag features

St. Non's Bay mostly consists of short pitches on sandstone slabs and walls in an idyllic setting. The best areas are Velvet Wall towards the west and Initiation Slabs towards the east, both of which give pleasant routes up to HVS.

Approach notes

Approach from St. Non's car park in 5-15 mins.

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Guidebooks

Good venue, micro wires recommend for the starts, steeper finishes make an exciting change the usual style of the area.
freemanTom - 13/Aug/17
The 4 routes around the big block all short but worthwhile. Not especially tidal from my experience 2-3 hours around looking tide maybe more
freemanTom - 13/Aug/17
It looks like the bottom part of the Cormorant Front buttress has fallen down based on the photograph of the crag in the Rockfax guide. I've uploaded a couple of photographs of the buttress. Can someone who knows the crag well confirm this?
Chris Murray - 27/Jul/14
It seems all of 'Rosary' (HS,4b) & the top of 'Foot and Mouth' (VS,4c) have suffered from storm damage - Square Bay, St Davids, Pembroke
ERU - 19/May/14
Shiraz and Chinon are listed twice, also on the Porth-y-ffynnon page...
Martin Davies - 14/Oct/12
All these routes plus the blank lines in between were climbed by Martin Crocker 2006
Mark Davies PK - 11/Oct/10
Nice routes albeit short ones.
loundsy - 01/Sep/10
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Jill's Wall
2 Jill's Rake S 4a  
3 Coasteering Wall HS 4b  
4 Blue Peter Traverse 5c  
  Al's Cove
6 Captain Corelli HS 4b 1
7 Bridge over the River Kwai
-
VS 4b  
8 Ice Cold in Alex
-
HVS 4c  
9 The Longest Day
-
HVS 4c  
10 Reach for the sky
-
HVS 4c  
  Organ Pipes West
12 Three Steps to Heaven D 5
13 Incontinence D 7
14 Riding the Surf D 15
15 Rapture of the Deep S 4a 17
16 Back to the Water M 15
17 Mussels VD 12
18 Grow Fins VD 17
19 Limpet VD 18
20 Avoidance HS 4b 8
21 Lego Wall S 4a * 22
22 This Charming Waitress HVS 4c  
  Organ Pipes East
24 Organ Pipe Arête VD 34
25 Castor Slab S 4a 36
26 Pollux HS 4b 47
27 The Wiggles VD 67
28 Bristol Cathedral Corner VD * 50
29 Eeeahh HVS 5a 13
  Velvet Wall
31 Graper Scraper
-
HS 4b 7
32 Shiraz E1 5b ** 219
33 Chinon HVS 5a ** 219
34 Blabber HS 4b 15
35 Little Corker
-
HS 4b  
36 Smoke
-
HS 4c 15
37 Corked
-
S 4a 1
  Keyhole Buttress
39 Mortice Corner VD 4
40 Padlock Arête VD 4
Climb name Grade
41 Peeping Tom VD 3
42 Keyhole Surgery VS 4b * 2
43 Keyhole Groove HS 4a * 4
  Pinnacle Buttress
45 St. Non's Pinnacle VS 4b * 15
46 The Calling HVS 4c 2
47 James Bond S 4a  
  Initiation Slabs
49 Tide Watch
-
HS 4b  
50 Hidden Crack HVS 5b * 2
51 Spock HVS 4c 3
52 Cormorant Front VD * 79
53 The Gerbil VS 4c 67
54 Black Corner S 4a 1
55 Star Trek HVS 5a 3
56 Aquarian VD * 148
57 Capricorn HS 4b * 326
58 Gemini VD * 324
59 A Load of Pollux VD 5
60 Versary Slab S 4a 178
61 Jammed Rope Route VD 5
62 Tatty Crack VD 24
63 Aries VS 4c ** 372
64 Vanishing Crack S 4a * 126
65 Forbeeornotforbee S 4a 8
66 Kaygeeforesee HS 4b 15
67 Non-sense
-
VS 4c  
68 Rose Arête
-
S  
69 Red Admiral
-
HS 4a  
70 Initiation Slab Traverse 5a 1
  Good Friday Slab
72 End Game HS 4a 3
73 Zimm VS 4c 6
74 Wiggy VS 4b 4
75 Nuts on the Line VS 4b 4
76 Lazy Sunday Afternoon VS 4b 4
  Square Bay
  Seaward Slabs
79 Nigel Likes to Sunbathe D 5
80 Barney Likes to Climb HS 4b 9
Climb name Grade
81 What am I Doing? S 1
82 Me HS 4b 3
83 Un VS 4c 9
84 Dau HS 4b 8
85 Tri HS 4b 6
  West Wall
87 Novitiate VD 13
88 Mayday S 8
89 Nonsense Wall 4c 3
90 Nonsense Crack 4c 1
91 Weird Wall HS 4a 4
  Back Wall
93 Loose Arête VD 1
94 Penitent's Corner VD  
95 If the Cap Fits VS 4c 1
96 Rosary HS 4b * 166
97 Foot and Mouth HVS 4c 92
98 Galtieri Groove VD  
  Pen-y-Cyfrwy - West
100 On My Tod D 1
101 Polar Maritime
-
S 25
102 Seth and the Wasp
-
VS 4b 17
103 Men Are from Mars
-
D 28
104 Women Are from Venus
-
D 23
105 King of Ping
-
D 17
106 Shambala
-
S 27
107 The Bucket 6b  
  Pen-y-Cyfrwy - Sun Slab
109 Overlap Corner S 4a 2
110 Corner -1 D 2
111 Slab 0
-
D 26
112 Too Small
-
D 56
113 Nigel Elliot Seagull
-
VD 64
114 Sight of a Seal
-
HS 4b 45
115 Wind Cries Scary E4 5c 1
116 Bondy HS 4b 60
117 Less UV E4 5c 6
118 I Bet I Forget
-
E1 5a  

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