Climbs 43
Rocktype Schist
Altitude 20m a.s.l
Faces S

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Crux of Barracuda © dwisniewski

Crag features

Bay just north of Orchestra cave and Boglesheugh, varies from super steep roof routes on the left to somewhat less steep wall routes on the right. 

It offers well equipped sport routes with good positive, athletic climbing. Although there are some easier routes they are generally of poor quality and require a knowledagble belayer due to the close proximity of the ground. As such the crag can not be recommended for the inexperinced. 

Approach notes

The routes are on the north wall of the deep inlet immediately north of the Orchestra cave. Park as Orchestra cave, please park with respect to the locals on the street, do not park vans on the grass verge. Findon is a very small village and we do not wish to upset the locals by filling up the village with badly parked cars. Think about sharing lifts if possible or you could meet in Portlethan Asda and take one car from there.

Approach as for the cave but once in the field cross it slightly north to follow the field edge overlooking the deep inlet to the sorth.  Now descend the steep grass at the back of the inlet (worn path) to where an insitu knotted rope can be descended hand over hand down a steep slab. Precarious when wet and be sure to check condition of rope before doing so. Then walk round to the base of the routes.

Guidebooks

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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
1 Lost Sharks 8a * 1
2 Mbenga 8a+ ** 5
3 Arapiama 7c * 12
4 Arapiama (Boulder Start) 7a 27
5 Tarpon 6c+ 4
6 Wahoo 7b+ * 1
7 Piraiba 7a * 5
8 Piraiba Extension 7c * 1
9 Hammerhead 7c+ * 5
10 Hammerhead (Boulder Start) 7a+ 4
11 Great White 8b ** 5
12 White Tip 7c+ * 1
13 Piranha 7c+ *** 9
14 Closed project Project  
15 Snakehead 8a+ ** 2
Climb name Grade
16 False Killer Whale 7a  
17 Orca 7b * 7
18 Free Willy 8a ** 2
19 Moby Dick 8a ** 4
20 Moby Killer 8a+ ***  
21 Anaconda 8b+ ***  
22 Red-Bellied 6b 13
23 Mako 7c * 12
24 Killer Wail 8a ** 2
25 Megalodon (1st lower-off) 6b 34
26 Megalodon 8a+ *** 3
27 Yoshi 7a ** 27
28 Yoshi Extension 7b+ *  
29 Killer Instinct 8b *** 3
30 Sting-Yoshi 6c+ * 25
Climb name Grade
31 Stingray 7b ** 28
32 Dorado 7b+ ** 7
33 Dorado Cop-out 7b  
34 Dorado-Ray 7b+ ** 9
35 Mahi-mahi 7c *  
36 Barracuda 7a+ ** 47
37 Barramundi 6c 40
38 Fin Cave Traverse f7B  
39 Low Cave f6B 1
40 Low Cave-Fin Traverse f7A  
41 White Snake f6B+ 2
42 White Snake Sit Start
-
f6C  
43 White Snake Great White Start f7A  

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