Climbs 88
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 25m a.s.l
Faces all

Crag features

West Weares is one of the least known bouldering venues on Portland but it is amongst the best and most accessible. The area consists of three contrasting sectors: a rocky beach, the more gentle Hallelujah Bay and the boulderfield of The Green Hump. There is much variety and the mid-grade boulderer is particularly well catered for.

Despite being on the west coat, West Weares receives sun from late morning. It is a great venue for an evening session when you can boulder until sunset. Some of the problems on the rocky beach and Hallelujah Bay are tidal.

Approach notes

Approach Portland along the A354. Instead of heading up the island, follow brown road signs to West Weares. Drive through Chiswell and use the West Weares car park. Parking is fairly limited and you will have to be there early to beat the divers. There is a larger car park back up the road near the big roundabout. This increases the length of the walk-in by 3 minutes (and perhaps longer on the walk-out as you pass the temptations of The Cove House Inn).

The various sectors are approached by following the path from the southern end of the Chesil Cove Esplanade.

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Guidebooks

Dorset Bouldering

Dorset has emerged as a major bouldering area in recent years thanks to the hard work of a bunch of diligent locals who have combed the coastline seeking out every block, problem and traverse. In addition to the well known areas of the Cuttings, the Boulderfield and the Neddyfields, the book has extensive information on the West Coast of Portland, many more areas on the East Coast, plus Swanage and Lulworth. It describes over 1500 boulder problems on over 350 pages.
More info
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
1 Staring at the Sun * f5+  
2 An Exercise in Standing Up * f4  
3 The Long Face * f6A  
4 Mussel Up * f5+  
  West Weares Beach
6 New Slab f4 * 5
7 New Arête f5+ * 4
8 Wave Traverse f6A ** 3
9 New Wave f6A * 2
10 Creep Grade f7A * 1
11 Captain's House f4 4
12 Jessu f5+ 4
13 The Great Tempest f6A * 2
14 Chavs on Top f6B * 4
15 Blazin' f4+ 5
16 The Gun Show, Lip Start f6C ** 2
17 The Gun Show f7A+ ***  
18 Spanking Roger f5+ * 4
19 Only One Left f6B * 5
20 Rough Underside f6C * 8
21 Rough As Traverse f4+ * 10
22 In the Rough f6C * 10
23 Rough Flake, Stand-up f4 * 15
24 Rough Flake f6A * 15
25 Flake Eliminate f6C ** 4
26 Bouysterous f7A+ ** 9
27 Rough Arête, Stand-up f5 ** 15
28 Rough Arête f6B+ ** 7
29 It's Not Cricket f4+ * 7
30 Sleeping Buddha f6A+ ** 2
31 Don't Wake the Bear f6A * 4
Climb name Grade
32 Phil's Mantel f7A 6
33 Money for Old Rope f6B+ * 1
34 Sad Face Traverse f4+ * 10
35 Sad Face Arête f5+ * 9
36 Alpine Route f3 * 9
37 Temples of Consumption f6A ** 1
38 Don't Rain on My Parade f5+ * 1
  Hallelujah Bay
40 Smooth Arête f5+ * 5
41 Hallelujah Slab f4+ * 5
42 Hallelujah Arête f6A+ *** 12
43 Uber Creep f7A+ ** 4
44 Creep f7A * 3
45 Cool Beans f7A * 2
46 Wild Bean f6C+ ** 2
47 Haematoma f6B+ * 1
48 Lucy in the Sky f6A * 5
49 Sky Rocket f6A ** 14
50 Skydive f6A * 7
51 Dark Skies f6B * 4
52 Skyfall f3 * 7
53 Skyfallen f5 5
54 Sky High f3 9
55 Sky Low f4+ * 6
56 Team Sky f4 8
57 Sky Lark f4 * 7
58 Slippery Slab Traverse f4+ 3
59 Slippery Slab Arête f5+ 3
60 Elephant in the Room f6A 1
61 Purest Green f5 * 4
62 Hawser Traverse f5+ * 4
Climb name Grade
63 First Half f6A * 1
64 Second Half f4 ** 2
65 Game of Two Halves f6A+ ** 1
66 Coffee Heist f5+ * 3
67 Forced Eviction f6A+ * 3
  The Green Hump
69 Bottom Arête f4+ * 12
70 Bottom Pockets f4+ ** 13
71 Bottom Traverse f6A ** 7
72 The End f5+ * 8
73 The Far Side f6A * 8
74 Hiram Otter f6B *** 10
75 Hiram Otter, Sit-start f6C ** 4
76 Bamboozle f7A ** 6
77 Can't Stand the Heat f6A * 12
78 The Heat f6C * 11
79 The Big Heat f7A ** 9
80 An Inconvenient Truth f7A 8
81 Had the Hump * f5  
82 Got the Hump * f5+  
83 Spiderwig * f4+ 2
84 Square Face Traverse * f4  
85 Padded Cell * f4+  
86 Holes and Flakes and Things * f4 2
87 Cop Out to Top Out * f4 2
88 The Complete Girdle * f6A 4
89 Ivy Staircase * f3  
90 The Tall Face * f5+  
91 Out of a Hole * f4  
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Ben Stokes