Climbs 34
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 3m a.s.l
Faces all

Crag features

The Coastguard Cliffs are an excellent and justifiably popular sport climbing venue with some of the best and hardest routes on Portland. Nestled beneath these fine cliffs are some huge boulders and a collection of decent boulder problems. It is rare to see anyone bouldering here, which is a pity because the area is very pleasant and is ideal for an evening session, particularly if you are staying at the Portland Bunkhouse.

Approach notes

Drive to Portland Bill and park in the car park (fee). Walk back up the road past the Pulpit Inn and head out leftwards up a minor road towards the Coastwatch lookout. Just before the Coastwatch lookout, go down a grass slope to the cliff edge, then descend a steep and precarious path (rope sometimes in place) onto a promontory. The path gains the boulder beach below the right-hand side of Coastguard North. The Descent Boulders are on the beach to the left (looking out). To reach the North Boulders, contune northwards along the beach for 100m.

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Guidebooks

Dorset Bouldering

Dorset has emerged as a major bouldering area in recent years thanks to the hard work of a bunch of diligent locals who have combed the coastline seeking out every block, problem and traverse. In addition to the well known areas of the Cuttings, the Boulderfield and the Neddyfields, the book has extensive information on the West Coast of Portland, many more areas on the East Coast, plus Swanage and Lulworth. It describes over 1500 boulder problems on over 350 pages.
More info
More Guidebooks:
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  North Boulders
2 Follow Through f5+ **  
3 Cunning Lingo f6B+ ***  
4 Squeaky Bum Time f5+ *  
5 White and Gold f6B * 1
6 Black and Blue f6B * 1
7 Grease Monkey f6A * 1
8 I Caesar f4+ 1
9 Greased Lightning f5 1
10 Rainbow Warrior f3 * 1
11 Rainbow Crack f5+ ** 1
12 Rainbow Direct f4+ * 1
Climb name Grade
13 Rainbow Wall f5 * 1
14 Richard of York Gave Battle in Vain f4+ 2
15 Pot of Gold f3 2
16 Rainbow Six f4 2
17 Pincer Manoeuvre f6A ** 2
18 Fool's Gold f6B+ *** 1
19 Burlesque f6B+ ** 1
20 Burl Less f6C ** 1
  Descent Boulders
22 The Rock f3 * 1
23 Birdman of Alcatraz f6A ** 1
24 The Dark Night Rises f7A **  
Climb name Grade
25 The Dark Night f6C+ **  
26 Bay Watch f5 *  
27 Barb Wire f5+ *  
28 Naked Souls f5+ * 1
29 Home Improvement f5+ * 1
30 A Scent of a Fisherwoman f6B 1
31 The Fisherwoman f4+ * 1
32 The Flake f3 1
33 The Cast of Tommy Lee f3 1
34 Angela Parmesan f5+ * 1
35 Pamela Anderson f5+  
36 Palmela Handerson f6B  

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