Climbs 46
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 5m a.s.l
Faces SE

Crag features

Broad Ope is a stretch of coastline northeast of Portland Bill. The bouldering is concentrated on two pebble beaches, but one of these is currently out of action due to the imminent collapse of a large cave. The bouldering is generally on rounded sea-washed limestone with good friction.

The venues are climable year-round but it may get too hot in summer. The beaches are todal and sunshine is usually required to dry the rock after high tide.

Approach notes

Drive to the southern end of the Isle and park at the Portland Bill car park (fee).

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Guidebooks

Dorset Bouldering

Dorset has emerged as a major bouldering area in recent years thanks to the hard work of a bunch of diligent locals who have combed the coastline seeking out every block, problem and traverse. In addition to the well known areas of the Cuttings, the Boulderfield and the Neddyfields, the book has extensive information on the West Coast of Portland, many more areas on the East Coast, plus Swanage and Lulworth. It describes over 1500 boulder problems on over 350 pages.
More info
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Butts Beach
2 Long Wall Traverse f6A ** 2
3 Long Wall Arête f3 12
4 Heavy Metal Rock f5 12
5 Red Pool Party f5+ * 9
6 Red Pool Flake f5+ * 8
7 Red Pool Eliminate f6B+ * 6
8 Long Wall Crack f3 * 13
9 Fragile X f3+ * 13
10 Long Wall f6B+ * 5
11 Long Wall Layback f5 ** 8
12 Lay Back and Crack f4+ * 7
13 Kicking the Lobster Pot f2+ 7
14 Pandora's Lobster Pot f6A+ 8
15 Dirty Derrick f4+ 11
16 Long Wall Hole f4 * 11
Climb name Grade
17 Naturally Glum f5+ * 7
18 Long Wall Flake f3 8
19 Flake Eliminate f6A ** 5
20 False Idols f3 * 9
21 Long Wall Slab f4+ * 8
22 The Warm-up Traverse f5+ * 8
23 From Biggles to Becky f4+ 3
24 JAB Crack f4 5
25 JB DAS Wall f4 * 10
26 SKH Groove f4 9
27 Becky and Ray f3 9
28 Butt End f5 * 1
29 Butt of the Joke f6A * 1
30 Butt In f6B * 3
31 Butt Out f6A ** 3
32 Yeah Butt No Butt f6B ** 4
Climb name Grade
33 Head Butt f6C+ ** 2
34 Butt Hole f6B ** 5
35 Butts Beach Arête, Direct f6C *** 5
36 Butts Beach Arête f6A *** 5
37 Butt Crack f5+ * 3
38 Butt Plug f5+ ** 1
39 Butt Lift f6A+ * 2
40 Beavis and Butt-head f4+ * 2
41 Butt Me No Butts f5 * 1
42 Butt Naked f6A ** 1
43 Butt Naked, Sit-start f6B ** 3
44 Everything Butt the Girl f5+ * 1
45 Butts Dyno f6B+ * 1
46 Butts Dyno, Sit-start f6B+ * 3
47 Last Butt Not Least f5+ 1

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