Climbs 74
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 10m a.s.l
Faces all

Crag features

Longstone Ope is the extensive and generally scruffy quarried area south of the Neddyfields Bouldering Wall. It has surprisingly decent bouldering with enough problems of varying styles within close proximity for a worthwhile day out. As you walk south from the Neddyfields Bouldering Wall there is climbable rock everywhere, much of which is either isolated or of poor quality. We have focused on the southern end of the area where the quality and concentration of the problems increase. The area definitely has that 'quarry feel' to it and there is little natural beauty, though it would be grossly unfair to describe the atmosphere as unpleasant.

The sectors face all directions except west so it should be possible to find sun or shade as desired. Many of the walls are also very sheltered from the wind.

Approach notes

Use the limited parking spot near the Southwell pumping station. Follow a path past the pumping station to the coast. If the limited parking is already taken, reach this point by parking near Cheyne House and walking past the Neddyfields Bouldering Wall. All the sectors are found by following the coast path south through a disused quarry.

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Guidebooks

Dorset Bouldering

Dorset has emerged as a major bouldering area in recent years thanks to the hard work of a bunch of diligent locals who have combed the coastline seeking out every block, problem and traverse. In addition to the well known areas of the Cuttings, the Boulderfield and the Neddyfields, the book has extensive information on the West Coast of Portland, many more areas on the East Coast, plus Swanage and Lulworth. It describes over 1500 boulder problems on over 350 pages.
More info
More Guidebooks:
Descent to Sea Gods area is quite tricky - especially with a pad on your back, the way down is as hard as some of the easier problems in the sector: f3ish.
The Ivanator - 02/Aug/15
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Sea Gods
2 Charybdis f5+ * 8
3 Stheno f4 * 7
4 Euryale f3 * 6
5 Medusa f3 * 8
6 Akheilos f3 * 8
7 Phorcys f4 * 9
8 Ichthyocentaur f6A 8
9 Eidothea f6A * 5
10 Eidothea, Sit-start f6A+ * 8
11 Amphiphile f6C+ ** 2
12 Ceto f6B ** 7
13 Ceto, Sit-start f6B+ ** 7
14 Carcinus f6B+ * 6
15 Amphitrite f6B+ ** 5
16 Hippocampi f6B * 5
17 Thalassa f6A ** 1
18 Thalassa, Sit-start f6A+ ** 4
19 Proteus f5 * 2
20 Proteus, Sit Start f6A * 3
21 Bum Dragon f6C+ ** 4
22 Olympus Crack f3+ * 1
  The Tar Pit
24 Concentration f7A+ * 10
25 Concentration Jump Start
-
f6B 3
26 ? V8 **  
27 Consternation f7A ** 7
Climb name Grade
28 Concussion f5 ** 28
29 Conclusion f6B ** 6
30 Continuation f6A ** 7
31 Conviction f7A * 4
32 Contamination f5 * 9
33 Barn Door ArĂȘte f6A+ ** 27
34 Peer Pressure f4 * 28
35 Tar Pit Crack f5 16
36 Tar Pit Snatch f5+ * 20
37 Tar Pit Scoop f5 21
38 Snake Hips f6A 10
39 No Tar f5+ * 14
40 Tar Full of Lung f5+ 13
  Bed Pan Alley
42 Liberace f6A ** 6
43 Behind the Candelabra f6B+ ** 3
44 Penelope Pit Strop f6A * 2
45 Minty Sensation f6A * 5
  The Old Sawmill
47 Brut Force f6A * 17
48 Stan the Strong Man f6A *** 17
49 Countdown f6B+ *** 12
50 L'angle Imparfait f6B+ *** 4
51 Saw Mill Slab f4+ 16
52 There Will Be Blood f5+ 10
53 Legends Never Die f5 * 10
54 Every Piece Has a Puzzle f5+ * 14
Climb name Grade
55 It's a Trap f4+ * 14
56 Game Over f4+ * 15
  The Wedge Area
58 150 Million Years BC f6A * 3
59 Raquel Welsh f5+ ** 14
60 Wedge Slab Left f3 17
61 Wedge Slab Centre f3 19
62 Wedge Slab Right f3 21
63 Wedge ArĂȘte f4 * 20
64 Wedge Wall f5+ 10
65 Wedge Traverse f3 * 11
66 The Thin End of the Wedge f6C 3
67 Shot Away f4 3
68 Home Boy f6A ** 7
69 Donkey Derby f6B * 3
70 Digging for Glory f6A ** 8
71 On Reflection f6B+ * 1
72 Much Maligned f5+ 4
73 Big Pit f6B * 5
74 Penelope Pitstop f6B+ * 6
75 The Pits f5+ 5
76 Harm Pit f6A 1
77 Lazarus Pit f6B * 3
78 Pit Bull f7A * 1
79 Mosh Pit f5+ * 3

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