Climbs 191
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 29m a.s.l
Faces all

Crag features

The bouldering to the north of the Cheyne Weares car park is spread amongst several disparate locations along the heavily quarried strip between the cliff-top and beach. This area is known as the Southwell Landslips. Although the bouldering here is relatively unknown and not very well frequented, it would be wrong to assume that it is of poor quality. The Southwell Landslips is a good winter venue and the quiet atmosphere makes a pleasant alternative to the nearby Cuttings Area which is often busy at that time of year.

Most of the initial development was by Jimbo Kimber, Ben Thorne, Tim Crawshaw and Ben Stokes. More recently, the beaches below have been explored by Ben Stokes and Luke Ellis, adding to the variety and appeal of the area.

Approach notes

Park at the large Cheyne Weares car park off the main road south of Easton where good footpaths lead to all the sectors.

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Guidebooks

Dorset Bouldering

Dorset has emerged as a major bouldering area in recent years thanks to the hard work of a bunch of diligent locals who have combed the coastline seeking out every block, problem and traverse. In addition to the well known areas of the Cuttings, the Boulderfield and the Neddyfields, the book has extensive information on the West Coast of Portland, many more areas on the East Coast, plus Swanage and Lulworth. It describes over 1500 boulder problems on over 350 pages.
More info
More Guidebooks:
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  The Secret Garden
2 The Mirror Conspiracy f4+ * 3
3 Lebanese Blonde f5+ * 2
4 Lebanese Blonde, Sit-start f6A * 2
5 What Lies Beneath f4+ * 2
6 What Lies Beneath, Sit-start f6B ** 2
7 War of Attrition f5+ ** 2
8 Unfranchised Duck f6C * 2
9 The Hong Kong Triad f6B+ * 2
10 Oriental Cyber Punk f6A * 2
11 The Way of the Gun f6A 2
12 Journey to Anywhere f6B * 2
  The Terrace Area
14 Caught in the Act f3 18
15 Second Bite f3 19
16 No Fee Required f3 * 21
17 Constant Gardening f3 * 22
18 Faith, Hope, No Charity f3 * 22
19 Not for the Faint Hearted f4+ * 18
20 Crazy Taxi f6B * 6
21 Scene of the Crime f6B+ ** 6
22 Killer App f6B+ * 4
23 Covert Ops f6B * 10
24 Terrace Traverse f5+ * 7
25 Floaters f6B+ ** 6
26 The Terrace f7A *** 8
27 The Terrace Right-hand f7A *** 10
28 Long Strange Trip f7A **  
  The Lost Valley
30 Heaven Traverse E2 5b 1
31 Fallen Angel 5a 10
32 Heavens Above 7b 1
33 Marry Me in Vegas? 7b 2
34 Tug on This Jody 7a 15
35 Look West & Find Salvation 7a+ 8
36 Quite Nice Actually 6b+ 8
37 Even Nicer 6b 3
38 Little Pinky 6b+ 9
39 Drilling in the Name 6b+ * 36
40 Robin Crack 5a * 78
41 Birdie Num Num 6c+ 4
42 Lost and Found f5+ * 2
43 Unclamped f6B+ *  
44 Clamped Aggression 6b+ * 10
45 Clamped Aggression Start f6C ** 1
46 Back Door to Heaven f6C+ * 1
47 Return to Sender f7A * 1
48 Heaven Sent f6C+ ** 1
49 Heaven Direct f7A+ **  
50 Straight to Heaven f7A+ ** 1
51 Direct Force f6B+ *  
52 Garden Force f5+ * 7
53 Bastard Crack 7a 3
54 Plystalker 7c 3
55 No Chutney on His Ferret 5c 21
56 Left-Right Traverse f6A 2
57 Chapter and Verse 6a 49
58 Oatsheaf, Chief 5c 26
59 Training for Hubble 6a+ * 52
60 The Stoning of St.Stephen 7b+ ** 10
61 Mono y Mono 7a+ * 3
62 Cadwallader 6b+ * 68
63 Redundancy Crack E1 5b 22
64 The Martyr 7a+ ** 23
65 The Secret Garden 6b+ * 90
66 The Beauty of Decay 6b+ 36
Climb name Grade
67 Tactical Nuclear Penguin 6b 48
68 Slug
-
E1 5b 4
69 Flake Away 4a 264
70 Portrait of a Lady 6c+ 32
71 Flaked Out 4c 213
72 Echoes of Trad 4c 147
73 Test Pilot 6a * 195
74 Primordial 6a+ * 87
75 Touch the Earth 7a 27
76 Promethean Flame 6a 4
77 Constant Companion 5a 43
78 Lush 5c * 86
79 Head in a Bush 3c 104
80 The Angel from my Nightmare 3a 96
81 Sweet Dreams are Made of This 3c 229
82 4, 8, 15, 16, 23, 42 4c 213
83 Rhys Gets Another Monkey Bite 5a 227
84 Not the Same Mistake Again Kath 5c 211
85 Plastic Tractor 3c 158
86 Dude, Where's My Car? S 19
87 The Lost Domain 6a 27
88 Enjoy My Experience 6c+ 5
89 Reverse Cowgirl * f7A  
  Stink Pipe Area
91 Desperate Measures f5+ * 11
92 Desperate Measures, Sit-start f6A+ ** 6
93 Lean-To f6B * 6
94 Lean Away f6B+ 6
95 White Rhino f6A * 5
96 Powdered Horn f7A 1
97 Water Horse f4+ 14
98 Hippo Head f5+ * 12
99 Kes f6A+ * 4
100 Lesser of Two Evils f6A * 17
101 I'm Revolting f6A * 24
102 Hippo Traverse f6B ** 8
103 Stink Bomb f4 * 31
104 Stink Pipe f4 * 23
105 Stink Eye Left f5+ * 10
106 Stink Eye Right f5+ * 11
107 Stinking Bishop f3 16
108 Aegaeon f6A * 2
109 Cymopoleia f6B+ ** 2
110 Storm Damage f6B * 2
111 Cloud Punching f6B+ * 2
112 Time to Split f3 12
113 Split Decision f3 * 12
114 Banana Split f3 * 12
115 Split Slab f4 * 14
116 Split Personality f4 * 14
117 Split Pin f3 * 12
118 Split End f3 11
119 Witch's Slab f4 * 12
120 Double, Double Toil and Rubble f4 12
121 Veasta f7A *** 2
122 Veasta, Stand-up f6B+ * 2
123 Scary Arête f6A ** 2
124 Crab Legs f6B+ * 2
125 Crab Legs, Stand-up f5+ * 2
126 Dorset Press f6B+ * 1
127 Crab Legs Traverse f4 * 4
128 Small Slab f4+ * 4
129 Silver Topped Gorilla f6A * 4
130 Out of Retirement f6B+ * 3
  Hidden Quarry Area
132 Persuasion f5 * 10
Climb name Grade
133 Persuasion, Stand-up f4 * 7
134 David Bellamy f6B ** 7
135 David Bellamy, Stand-up f5+ * 7
136 Drop the Dime f6B ** 4
137 Drop the Dime, Stand-up f5+ * 8
138 Drama at the Wild Bean Cafe f5 * 9
139 Drama at the Wild Bean Cafe, Stand-up f3 * 11
140 Real Freaks f4+ * 7
141 Real Freaks, Stand-up f3 * 10
142 Burning Like Fire f6C * 2
143 Burning Like Fire, Stand-up f5 * 3
144 Wake Up the Funk f6A * 6
145 Wake Up the Funk, Stand-up f4+ * 11
146 Nukleuz f6B * 7
147 Nukleuz, Stand-up f5+ * 15
148 Get Wicked f6B+ * 4
149 Get Wicked, Stand-up f5+ * 7
150 Deep Swarm f4+ * 6
151 Rough Slab f4+ * 7
152 How's Your Father f6B+ ** 2
153 A Night With a Trucker f7A+ *** 2
154 A Night With a Trucker Sit-start f7B ***  
155 Who's the Daddy? f7A *** 6
156 Who's the Daddy, Sit-start f7A+ *** 3
157 Fathers for Justice f6B ** 12
158 Fathers for Justice, Sit-start f6C ** 5
159 DNA Test f6B+ ** 22
160 Danny Wellback f7A ** 4
161 Danny Wellback's DNA Test f7A+ ** 1
162 Who's the Daddy Traverse f7B **  
163 Jason Peters f6C ** 4
164 Turf Wars f5+ * 2
165 Sherbert Traverse f6C ** 2
166 Short Arête f4+ 3
167 Hidden Quarry Arête f6A ** 3
168 Hidden Quarry Arête, Stand-up f5 9
169 Crack f5+ * 5
170 Crack, Stand-up f4+ 8
171 Red Tail Rampage f6B+ ** 5
172 Red Tail Rampage, Stand-up f6A * 3
173 Bombardiar f6B ** 2
174 Curved Air f4+ * 7
175 Pit Bull f6B * 6
176 Big Hug f5 ** 5
177 No Hug f5+ * 3
178 Cold Shoulder f6A * 2
  Church Ope Area
180 Seaview Traverse f4+ 13
181 Waves f2 15
182 Boats f4 * 13
183 Other f4 15
184 Euston Station Dysfunction f6B+ 2
185 Stupidity Virus f6A ** 2
186 Daily Planet f6A ** 2
187 Superman f4+ ** 5
188 One Step at a Time f5+ * 4
189 A Step Too Far f6B+ * 1
190 Corrugation Oath f6A 2
191 Corrugation Street f4+ * 5
192 Corrugation Chicken f6B+ * 2
193 Completely Opeless f5+ * 3
194 Opeful f7A * 1
195 Ope in Hell f7B * 9
196 Ope in Hell, Sit-start f7C *** 4
197 No Ope f6B+ * 5
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Ben Stokes