Climbs 110
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 65m a.s.l
Faces SE

Crag features

The sheltered bays of the New Cuttings are home to some fine technical challenges, often highball, above flat landings. The New Cuttings has been the traditional forcing ground for bouldering in Dorset with Pastoral (f7B), Guy Fawkes (f7C+) and My Chemical Romance (f8A) each holding claim to be the hardest in the county when first ascended by local strong men Oxley, Kimber, and Kennard. The quality of the problems is high and it is often worth investing time picking a long-term project and working it. There are classic ticks throughout the upper grades.

Approach notes

Drive through Easton towards Southwell to the Church Ope car park. Walk back up the road for 50m, and at the tiny Portland Museum, turn right onto Church Ope Road. Follow the road under an arch to a viewpoint - a flat area with some benches directly under Rufus Castle. From here, take the coast path (not the path down steps to Church Ope Cove) to a wide track which leads to the New Cuttings in a couple of minutes. The New Cuttings is the first cliff reached.

An alternative and popular approach is to use the often muddy track to the right of Mermaid House - this leads directly to the coast path.

Rockfax App

Available in the Rockfax App

The Rockfax App brings together all the Rockfax climbing information with UKC logbooks and presents it into a user-friendly package for use on Apple iOS devices (Android version to follow).


Guidebooks

Dorset Bouldering

Dorset has emerged as a major bouldering area in recent years thanks to the hard work of a bunch of diligent locals who have combed the coastline seeking out every block, problem and traverse. In addition to the well known areas of the Cuttings, the Boulderfield and the Neddyfields, the book has extensive information on the West Coast of Portland, many more areas on the East Coast, plus Swanage and Lulworth. It describes over 1500 boulder problems on over 350 pages.
More info

Dorset

The latest edition of the Dorset Rockfax features the now widely acclaimed full-page colour topos, and includes all the new lines in the areas previously covered, as well as many entirely new sectors. The crags are illustrated using bigger topos and there is a complete new set of action photos. This new Rockfax guide will concentrate on Portland, Swanage and Lulworth, covering all the sport routes in these areas, and also the bulk of the quality trad climbing at Swanage and Lulworth. Coverage of bouldering and deep water soloing, along with all the routes in Devon have migrated from this book.
More info
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  The Playground
2 Broken Rib f4+ 16
3 Park Life f4+ * 19
4 Late Addition f6A * 8
5 Canyon Crack f4+ 33
6 Canyon Crack Right f6A * 10
7 Groovy f6A * 34
8 Spare Rib f5+ * 40
9 Seams the Same f5+ * 38
10 Shot-hole Blues f6A 38
11 Left Crack f4+ * 83
12 Right Crack f4 * 91
13 See Saw f5+ 42
14 Swings and Roundabouts f6B+ * 41
15 Under and up * f5+ * 3
  Left-Hand Routes
17 Undercut Arête VD 4
18 Private Dancer HVS 6a  
19 Calcite Dance HVS 5a  
20 Zit VS 5a/b 3
21 Silent Boulder VS 5a 2
22 Out With The Old 6b 15
23 In With The New 6c * 9
24 On the Boil VS 4a 2
25 Winnie the Pooh 5b 14
26 Puffin Billy HVS 5b 2
27 Head of Steam 6b+ * 7
28 Sublimation Arête 6b 24
  Pastoral Bay
30 Loco f5+ * 15
31 Phats and Bigs f6B+ * 10
32 The Phat Traverse f6A * 33
33 Weight Watchers f6C * 2
34 Phat Slab V3 * 10
35 The Fat Controller 6b+ 7
36 The Fat Controller Start f6A 23
37 Phat Slapper f6C+ *** 45
38 Pastoral f7B ** 6
39 Phastoral f7A+ ** 5
Climb name Grade
40 Descent Horizon 6a+ 17
41 Descent Horizon Start f6A * 15
42 White Baron Left f6C+ ** 4
43 White Baron Left, Sit-start f7A ** 2
  Sub Youth Bay
45 White Baron f6B+ * 11
46 White Baron, Sit-start f7A ** 2
47 Baron Gunpowder f6C+ ** 4
48 Baron Gunpowder, Sit-start f7A *** 2
49 Gunpowder Plot f6B+ * 32
50 Guy Fawkes f7C+ ** 12
51 Firestarter f6C+ ** 10
52 Subyouth 7b+ ** 10
53 Sub Youth Start f7A+ *** 7
54 Sub Youth Right f7A+ * 5
55 Flowers on the Razor Wire 6c ** 141
56 Flowers on the Razor Wire Start f5+ * 6
57 Nu Skool f7A * 9
58 Stompin' with Bez 7c ** 9
59 Stompin' with Bez Start f7B *** 9
60 Stompin' with Bez Direct f7B+ *** 3
61 My Chemical Romance f8A 2
62 The Black Parade f8A 1
63 The Fibonacci Sequence 7c+ * 3
64 The Fibonacci Sequence f7C * 2
65 Jim's Traverse f5+ * 10
66 Sinister romance * f8A ** 1
  Razor Face
68 Lats, Babes and Bolts 7b+ * 5
69 Lats, Babes and Bolts Start f7B * 4
70 Razorface f7A+ * 4
71 Mantel f5+ * 7
72 Bogus Roof 7b * 7
73 The Unworthy 6c ** 209
74 The Unworthy Start f5+ * 13
75 The Vulcanites 7a * 102
76 The Vulcanites Direct f6B+ * 9
77 Deadlosski Must Die 7b * 23
78 Deadlosski Must Die Start f6B+ * 3
Climb name Grade
79 Connect Four f6C+ ** 4
80 Leer of Beethoven 7b+ * 26
81 Leer of Beethoven Start f5+ * 3
82 Bunfight at the Portland Corral 5c * 241
83 Buddleia Boulevard 4c 109
84 Skaterdate 4c 154
  Tipping the Scales
86 Elephant on Rollerskates 4c * 509
87 Elephant on Roller Skates Start f4 * 17
88 Crag Traverse f6C * 12
89 Limbo Dancer 5c * 299
90 Limbo Dancer Start f4+ * 10
91 Julia Edwards 6c * 11
92 Beeching's Tracks E1 6a 3
93 To the Left f6A * 7
94 To the Right f6A+ * 3
95 Beeching's Track f6A+ * 5
96 Tipping the Scales 7a * 76
97 Tipping the Scales Start f6C ** 7
98 Pop for the Top 6c * 85
99 Pop for the Top Start f6B+ * 4
100 Two Nuns, a Hang-glider and Jesus 4c * 352
101 Two Nuns, a Hang-glider and Jesus Start f4+ * 12
102 Space Manoeuvres f6B+ ** 17
103 Right Manoeuvres f6B ** 3
104 Nobody Runs for Free 6b 31
105 The Running Man 6c+ * 22
106 The Running Man Start f6A 4
107 The Running Man Direct f6B * 2
108 Bend Sinister 7a+ ** 52
109 Bend Sinister Start f6B+ ** 5
110 Plyometrically Speaking 7b+ * 20
111 Plyometrically Speaking Start f7B * 4
112 Ahead of the Curve 6b+ * 5
113 Learning Curve 6a+ ** 18
114 The Blandford Weasel 7b 8
115 Cold Fusion 6a * 18
116 The Man Who Can’t be Moved * 6c+ 1
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

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