UKC

Climbs 250
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 28m a.s.l
Faces W

dreaded overhangs! © quickthinkingtom

Crag features

Paynes Ford is one of the climbing Mecca's of New Zealand with something to satisfy most needs - from the hard rock junkie to the mellow hang - out types. It's got easy access; there are a variety of grades and types of climbing. The steep solid limestone dries quickly and climbing is only inhibited by the wettest weather - it's even good in mid-winter (when the friction is better).

The excellent 'Hangdog Camp' lies within minute's walk from the crag and a great swimming hole can be found just across the road. You can buy the local guide booklet from Hangdog (camp) which includes most of the climbs in the Golden Bay region.

Check out the Mussel Inn (Onekaka), the Wholemeal Cafe and the Cinema. Summer is usually enlivened with a variety of live concerts, raves and other entertainments.

Approach notes

Golden Bay is in the top left corner of New Zealand. If you know where the Abel Tasman National Park is then you are almost there. Takaka is over the hill from Motueka. Follow State Highway 60 on a very windy road (about 50 minutes drive). The Paynes Ford cliffs are in a Scenic reserve 4 km south of Takaka township, just beside the Paynes Ford road bridge. Hangdog camp is 2 minutes walk from the car park.

http://www.mojozone.co.nz/climbing-location/paynes-ford
http://www.alpineclub.org.nz/default.aspx?p=225
http://www.planetfear.com/review_detail.asp?r_id=459
http://paynesford.blogspot.com/

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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
1 Louise 10  
2 Big sharks at night 22  
3 Terror, illness and rebellion 18 2
4 Zen Navigation 16  
5 Herbal Infusion 19 * 4
6 The Darling Buds of May 23 1
  Creese Wall
8 Blobbet
-
16 * 57
9 Good Bye Cream-Poofters
-
17 ** 65
10 Why would you wave at a one armed man riding a bike?
-
25 * 2
11 Re-election Blues
-
16 26
12 Golden Years 14 20
13 Midwife Crisis
-
13 38
14 Calling all hobbits
-
12 * 26
15 Elvis Lives in Takaka
-
18 * 39
16 Blockbuster 19 * 25
17 Bite my Chunk 19 * 13
18 The Fearless Vampire Killers
-
20 * 35
19 Gorgonzola Goes
-
16 * 19
20 Cheddermaster's Choice 15 * 13
21 Hula Yula 6a+ 19
22 Spotty Brit
-
24 * 8
23 Tongue in Groove
-
20 9
24 Sweet Dreams 22 * 8
25 Hunting Tartan 6a+ 17
26 Wasp Factor
-
18 1
27 Something Precious 21 * 4
28 Rawhide 22 *** 20
29 Rumplestiltskin 23 2
30 Golden Bay Connection
-
24 * 5
31 Serac Attack
-
21 4
  RATA WALL
33 Granulated chicken booster
-
22 * 1
34 Humpty Dumpty
-
18 ** 5
35 All The Kings Horses
-
21 * 2
36 Savage Honeymoon
-
20 1
37 Woop Woop Pull Up
-
22 * 8
38 Last call for flight 911 21 * 2
39 Bang your head
-
20 2
40 Bob and Betty go mating
-
22 1
  The Rat Trap Wall
42 Tales By Firelight
-
21 * 7
43 Rat Up A Drainpipe
-
20 ** 28
44 Blibo's Great Adventure
-
21 ** 18
45 No rest for the Wicked 22 ** 11
46 Immaculate deception 22 ** 7
  Stone Symposium wall
48 Spitfire
-
19 * 10
49 Seafire 21 * 6
50 Seven Days a Week 25 1
51 Jericho 22 3
52 Temples Of Stone
-
18 *** 52
53 Jimmy the torn piece of paper gets a hand from fred the friendly 6b 14
54 R for Ranger, D for Danger
-
21 9
55 'D' for Danger Direct
-
21 ** 7
56 Space Invader 20 12
57 Stone Symposium 6c ** 9
58 Stroking The Tiger
-
18 ** 18
59 Wazzo Jugs
-
18 * 10
60 Sacred Forest
-
19 * 11
61 Autumn Leaf
-
18 * 13
  The Tenuite Wall
63 Fluffy Duck
-
21 4
64 Hi, I'm Dr Terrific
-
20 ** 23
65 Headplant
-
21 ** 12
66 Walk the Line
-
20 * 8
67 Loose Unit
-
20 ** 20
68 Go with the flow
-
22 ** 25
69 Fat Cats
-
19 * 19
70 A Shout Towards Noon 16 20
71 Badgers mount
-
16 1
72 Bent Badgers
-
19 3
73 Lapsed Catholics
-
22 2
74 Romancing The Stone
-
16 ** 22
75 Grey Warbler (17) 17 8
Climb name Grade
  Pantechnicon Wall
77 Pousse Ton Froc
-
27 2
78 Happy Motoring
-
22 * 1
79 Grey Warbler
-
14 15
80 Electric Sunroof
-
23  
  Carnage Wall
82 Carnage at the crossroads 6a+ 13
83 There Is No Spoon
-
27 3
84 Skiing Off A Convex Slope
-
25 *** 8
85 Responsible Lunges
-
25 ** 13
86 No Fly Zone 22 1
  The Slave Wall
88 Primal Scream
-
22 5
89 State of Mind
-
14 2
90 Three Poms and a Swedish Farafetta
-
20 2
91 Daves belay slave gets bored
-
18 11
92 Bondage for Beginners
-
17 * 14
  Globe Wall
94 Dread Fever
-
14 2
95 Super Blonde 20 * 19
96 Feisty Red
-
18 30
97 Burly But Sensitive
-
22 21
98 Red Lining To The Max
-
23 ** 15
99 Calling Guthrie
-
20 1
100 Voice of the Beehive 20 * 17
101 Effervescing Elephants
-
19 1
102 Sweetest William
-
27 2
103 High Voltage
-
24 10
104 Master of Puppets
-
23 2
105 Six Foot Thruster
-
21  
106 Daves Arete 25 *** 2
107 Suparete
-
27 ** 1
108 Dancing on a Skewer
-
28 *  
109 Amino Max
-
27 3
110 Amino Pro 24 * 7
111 Recidivist
-
20 13
112 Make my Grumpy Cat Dance 21 ** 31
113 Dirty harry
-
18 9
114 Feeling Lucky Punk
-
26 ** 4
115 Make My Day
-
25 ** 7
116 Overkill 25 ** 2
117 Power Failure
-
23 * 4
118 Stoned Monkey
-
28 * 2
119 Papageno
-
27 ** 2
120 Dutch Jugs 27 * 1
121 Greenday ? 10 5
122 Electricorp Production
-
22 *** 18
123 Send a Gorilla
-
23 *** 15
124 Feral Pakeha
-
23 3
125 Positive Energy
-
23 2
126 Superconductor
-
23 *** 9
127 Creative Confusion
-
27 ** 5
128 Gravity * 24 ** 1
129 Weetbix Heroes * 24 * 1
130 Killing Time * 25 * 1
  Tomorrow Gully
132 Fauvism
-
29 ** 1
133 Wreck Tangle
-
21 3
134 Clutch Cargo
-
22 4
135 Procrastination
-
26 ** 1
136 Bulga-nomics
-
25 3
137 Juan Bautista
-
24 ** 1
  The Little Globe wall
139 You're Either Dead Or You're Not
-
22 ** 7
140 Tolkiens World
-
26  
141 Short Circuit
-
22 1
142 Lights Out
-
22 1
143 Steinzeit
-
25 1
144 Electrocution
-
28  
  The Fortress
146 The Infidel 25  
147 Pembroke Calling
-
19 1
148 Rupert Bear Goes Hiking
-
20 1
149 The What Of What? Said Pooh
-
21  
150 Beas Knees
-
17 2
151 Peter Rabbit Discovers Drugs 16 * 3
Climb name Grade
152 No Whack Only Dangle
-
18 5
153 Morepork Pie
-
18 * 11
154 Lush
-
19 ** 9
  The Passion Slab
156 Indecision
-
16 * 5
157 Alternative Lifestyle
-
17 * 7
158 Arachna-obeeelisk
-
17 5
159 Champagne Cruise
-
14 * 5
  The Little Lost Wall
161 Wrinkle
-
16 32
162 Candy Man
-
18 * 31
163 Jerry Garcia
-
16 * 39
164 Lost Soul
-
21 ** 34
165 Ecological Itch
-
14 46
166 Doolittle
-
16 ** 53
167 The Wrong Trousers
-
15 38
168 Wobbly Bits
-
13 * 32
169 Lucy in the Sky with Prismatic Rain Drops
-
15 * 34
170 The Bellringer
-
11 * 40
171 Mind the Hebes
-
12 * 29
172 Damsel in Dis-dress
-
15 * 24
173 Knicknack Paddywack
-
18 * 37
174 Mea Culpa
-
27 5
175 Porkage
-
24 3
176 Bury Me in a Y Shaped Coffin 21 11
177 Release the Bats
-
18 4
178 It's a Beautiful Day
-
18 * 9
179 Misery
-
21 ** 3
  The Wall of Thugs
181 1080 And The Letter G
-
23 *** 18
182 Typhoon Tongue
-
22 4
183 Java Jive
-
23 1
184 Burn, Hollywood, Burn
-
21 2
185 Wilt
-
21 * 1
186 Intensive Scare
-
24  
187 Big Mama Jama
-
27 1
188 La La Land
-
23 * 2
189 Flesh Device
-
25 1
190 Bicep D'elan
-
22 1
191 Dread-full
-
29  
192 Dread Carefully
-
24 *** 3
193 African Head Charge
-
26 *** 5
194 Jive Bombing
-
24 ** 4
195 Smells Like Fish
-
27 ** 1
196 Fish On Heat
-
26 ** 2
197 Fish On Heat
-
25 ** 1
198 Fish And Chips
-
26 3
199 The Good, The Bad And The Dread
-
23 * 5
200 Subliminal Seducer
-
24 ** 4
201 American Spoon
-
22 2
202 Slaprobatics
-
24 2
203 System of the Down 26 * 2
  Rhinoceros wall
205 Gobble, Gobble, Yum Yum 19 ** 9
206 The Great NZ Clobbering Machine
-
22 5
207 Rhinoceros
-
19 ** 21
208 Black Eyed Beauty
-
22 4
209 Berlin Wall 26 * 3
210 The Ground's the Limit * 22 1
  The Happy Hour Wall
212 Stamp Collection
-
22 1
  The Red Wall
214 Redgates
-
15 * 6
215 Bored of the Rings
-
19 ** 10
216 The Red Hand of Ulster 19 1
  Unknown
218 Trust Me 20 1
219 Want Some Candy? 17 1
220 Fraulein Foreskin 23 1
221 Vertebrae 26 1
222 Fellatio 28 1
223 Night in the Dog Box 24 ** 1
224 The Last Fish 25 1
225 Bear Necessitites *
-
18 * 1
226 The Mot Boy's one * 18 1
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer nz Cragrat