Please refrain from climbing outside

Due to the ongoing spread of Covid-19, please abstain from climbing outside.

At UKC we are all climbers and we understand the strong urge to be outdoors as the weather is finally improving, but we feel this is no longer socially acceptable. You can read our statement here.

We have suspended the UKC Logbooks Top Ascents and Conditions pages and we will no longer accept ascents dated from 23rd March onwards. You can still upload your historic ascents.

UKClimbing Team

Climbs 394
Rocktype Schist
Altitude 383m a.s.l

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Lake Wanaka, New Zealand © Chris F

Crag features

Wanaka is a major sport climbing area in one of the most scenic areas of the country. Most of the rock climbing is in an are of outcrops 15km from Wanaka, up the Matukituki valley. Most of the crags arent large or particularly asthetic but they do have a good range of routes, particularly edgey in nature. The many areas do split climbers up so avoiding crowds. There is also a good bouldering area on the way to the crags.

Access Advice

Lambing season (1st october - 15 november) - although the crags are not closed, climbers must be considerate not to disturb the sheep during this period.

The roadside attraction sector is closed due to a rockfall (Aug 14) which has removed several climbs.
GPN - 10/Nov/14
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Gentleman's Club
2 Picking Locks
-
26 *** 3
3 The Midget 29 *** 2
4 White Pepper 28 *** 1
5 Dreadlocks 27 ** 1
6 FBI 23 ** 3
7 Duck Man 23 ** 5
8 White Trash 27 ** 1
9 Peking Man 27 *** 3
10 Hong Kong Phooey *
-
29 ** 1
11 Peking Duck * 27 ** 1
12 White Peking * 28 *** 1
  Al Cap
14 Foreplay 24 * 3
15 Huffer 25 ** 2
16 Tuffer 27 *** 2
17 Badger 25 ** 5
18 Continuous Play 27 *** 2
19 Vasoconstrictor 31 ***  
20 Tormentum Vigilae 30 ***  
21 Beardown 28 ** 1
22 Cocaine 28 ** 3
23 Mainlining 29 *** 1
24 Righteous
-
27 *** 3
25 Aperitif * 24 * 1
26 R.T.D * 23 * 3
27 Bubbles * 24 * 1
28 Jaeger Bomb *
-
25 1
  Cliff Richard
30 Jazz 27 ** 1
31 Community Service
-
26 ** 1
32 Skin Therapy
-
29 *** 1
33 Greasy Chips 25 ** 1
34 Hip-Rock-Racy 24 *** 2
35 Mantle as Anything *
-
19 *  
  Cattle Yard
37 Afghan 24 1
38 Breaking Ground 17 * 2
39 Heli Beli 17 * 3
40 Butt Crack Wedgy 17 * 6
41 Bathroom Refugee
-
17 * 7
42 Gorillas in the Schist 18 *** 13
43 Schistose Intolerance 23 *** 2
44 Merry Schistmas 22 ** 3
45 The One Left 24 * 1
46 Should Have Gone First 24 ** 2
47 This One 16 * 7
48 That One 15 * 8
49 Disneyland 22 ** 2
50 Should Have Tried Harder 25 *** 2
  The Little Big Wall
52 Turn On Tune In Drop Out 16 ** 34
53 Beatnik 15 * 1
54 Wickedness Increased
-
20 ** 4
55 The Full Monty
-
19 ** 3
56 Little Big Bloke 23 ** 3
57 Papparazzi Party
-
21 2
58 Ultrasound 26 *** 1
59 Roque Erratic 25 *** 5
60 High Schistosity 24 ** 3
61 Super Sonic 27 ** 1
  The Tombstone
63 Six Feet Under 10 7
64 Lincoln Blondes Have More Fun
-
17 * 57
65 Fingers Columbia
-
17 * 48
66 Rusty Pins 18 54
67 The Crack 17 ** 63
68 Disco Inferno
-
20 * 16
69 Lunge Starter 24 21
70 Pitch Black 22 1
71 Nice Set of Jugs 18 * 2
  The Engine Block
73 The Radiator
-
9 * 23
74 Drop the Clutch 25 1
  Chopping Block
76 Meat Cleaver 21 7
77 First Light
-
12 * 3
78 Frog Legs
-
13 3
  Headstone
80 Nine Months Later 18 * 3
81 Cast Off 21 3
  Whale Watching
83 Blubber 19 * 1
84 Hobo Humping Slobo Babe 23 * 2
85 No Thanks I'd Rather Walk
-
20 * 3
86 Blow Hole 27 ** 2
87 Harpoon 27 ** 2
88 Moby Dick
-
25 ** 4
89 10 Boy Scouts 24 * 2
90 Via Frittata 18 2
  The Main Cliff
92 Don't Call Me Shorty 20 1
93 Senstra Dexter
-
20 * 9
94 The Nutty Professor 19 * 5
95 Lolly Gobble Bliss Bomb 20 2
96 Direct Approach 20 1
97 The Big Corner 14 ** 56
98 Bang My Drum 18 * 8
99 Headbangers Arete
-
17 *** 71
100 After Burner 18 8
101 Thin and Germanic 23 3
102 Wasted on the Wing
-
14 * 31
103 Straight Up The Face
-
18 10
104 Do I Have To?
-
13 * 46
105 Quite Nifty
-
13 15
106 Mainly Trampling 12 5
  Warm Leatharete
108 Edge of Reality 24 ** 2
109 Aikido
-
27 ** 2
110 Sumo 27 * 1
111 The Lost Samurai 26 ** 1
112 Doing the World a Favour
-
22 *** 6
113 Quick Fix
-
19 ** 5
  Highside
115 Attict
-
27 *** 2
116 Daydreams and Fantasies 23 * 3
117 Simon's Virginity Route
-
20 ** 3
118 Emoticon
-
23 * 3
119 Bula
-
16 ** 3
  Hangover
121 She's a Little Goer 20 ** 2
122 Paparazzis Revenge 20 * 1
123 Pocket Edition 23 ** 3
  Conservatory
125 Sweet Sixteen 16 ** 7
126 Showtime 18 ** 5
  Crackhouse
128 At Your Leisure 21 * 1
129 What Lies Beneath 24 * 2
130 Critics Choice
-
20 *** 5
131 Slip Thru The Cracks
-
27 *** 3
132 Crack Under Pressure 24 * 1
133 Chewbacca
-
22 2
134 Drive By Shooting 22 1
135 Karearea Crack * 22 ** 1
  Sunnyside
137 Fire Up the Jet Bitch
-
27 * 3
138 Momentum
-
27 ** 2
139 Sun Salute
-
26 ** 3
140 Suck the Kumara 23 * 2
141 Bastard Of Cleardale 23 ** 13
142 El Nino 17 * 9
143 Mean Streak 23 ** 5
144 74HQ 21 * 3
145 Power Curve 25 * 2
146 Mum's on the Run
-
20 ** 7
147 Creepy Crawler 23 ** 3
Climb name Grade
148 Head on 24 * 4
149 Truncated 26 * 1
150 Sisters of Mercy 22 ** 8
151 Shark Chirac 22 ** 9
152 Oh The Bulge 27 1
153 Giz-a-Combo 20 * 2
154 Anagaanga 21 ** 7
155 Hap Hazard 19 ** 5
156 Where’s the Goddamned Drill 18 2
157 Bella Linguini 17 2
158 Life in the Fat Lane 26 * 1
159 Life in the Fat Lane (RH start) 26 * 1
160 Who Stole My Dorris
-
26 ** 4
161 No Sweat
-
27 *** 7
162 All That Remains
-
24 ** 11
163 Mental as Anything 25 *** 10
164 Winners and Losers 19 ** 10
  Cutting
166 Happy Fat Men
-
18 *** 13
167 The Whole Enchilada
-
19 ** 7
168 Gym Jocky 17 3
169 Cleaning for the hell of it 19 ** 2
170 Labour Only 21 ** 2
171 Falcon Screech 19 2
172 Henry the Eighth 18 ** 2
173 The Secret To Happiness 23 * 2
174 Gene Therapy 20 *** 1
175 Falcon Steep
-
22 *** 18
176 The 2 1/2 Minute Man
-
26 ** 2
177 Fountain of Youth * 24 *** 1
178 Piwakawaka * 25 ***  
179 Flake News * 22 * 1
180 Please Hold the Line * 21 * 1
181 Not Just Another Face Climb *
-
24 ** 1
182 Glenns *
-
22 1
  Icehouse
184 The Prick
-
19 * 6
185 Slash and Grab 17 * 9
186 The Cutting Edge 20 * 8
  Bakehouse
188 H5B3
-
8 * 4
189 Where The Hell is Little's River
-
12 * 14
190 Curiously Sheepish
-
14 * 19
191 Stealing Candy From A Baby 17 ** 14
192 Genetic Betrayal
-
17 * 19
193 Groover
-
17 * 11
194 The Meat in the Middle 18 5
195 Seam Stress 23 ** 8
196 Get Off That Cow
-
16 8
197 Monkey Toes
-
13 4
198 Milk and Cookies
-
13 ** 14
199 Longshot * 19 1
200 Dark Horse * 18 1
  Brummy Crag
202 Matt's Route
-
18 * 1
203 Easy off Spam
-
16 3
204 Fist it 18 * 3
205 The Dirty Browny
-
19 * 3
206 Briefcase Wanker 17 5
  The Vatican
208 Little Boy Blues 18 2
209 Tiki Tour 21 *** 3
210 Blade Runner 15 ** 3
211 Rangitane * 18 **  
  Kai Whaka Pai
213 Liss Route 12 * 14
214 Under the Moonlight 15 ** 27
215 New route right of Under the moonlight * 15 3
216 Phormium Tenax 12 * 11
217 Kiddies Corner 12 * 1
218 Strike! 14 *** 17
219 Friction in the Kitchen 16 6
220 Pulp Fiction 15 ** 29
221 Nice & Sleazy Does It All The Time 17 7
222 Spring Fever 14 9
223 Paul's Route 14 ** 6
224 Climb Into The Unknown 17 ** 13
225 Weaker Sex 15 ** 8
226 Kai Time 18 * 9
227 Unknown??? * 15 1
228 Journey Through Time 17 * 11
229 Split Decision 19 * 4
230 Glen's Grotto 17 * 8
231 Food for Thought 19 ** 9
232 Feeding Frenzy * 21 * 2
  Hotline Area
234 Big & Chossy Bedroom Sossy 18 *** 8
235 Penance 21 ** 9
236 The Hotline 22 *** 1
237 Hey George 21 * 5
238 Fuckity Fuck Fuck 19 *** 10
  Spade Slab
240 Dried and Bagged 19 ** 2
241 10 Dollars is Cool 24 ** 3
242 Venus in Furs
-
23 *** 5
243 Clubs On Campus 26 ** 3
  Diamond Slab
245 Picture Perfect
-
29 *** 3
246 Cornered 18 * 4
247 Get a Job
-
18 *** 25
248 Naked On The Neve 20 ** 23
249 Got a Job 17 * 21
250 Ex-squeeze Me
-
19 * 12
251 Sand Gropers
-
15 * 13
252 Feeling Rampant
-
18 5a ** 6
  Pencil Dick
254 Drop In, Drop out
-
18 * 7
255 Botox Viagra 21 ** 3
256 Take No Prisoners
-
22 *** 10
257 My Little One
-
24 *** 4
258 Stick it in
-
20 *** 9
259 Reach For The Purple Love Truncheon
-
26 ** 4
260 Wet Winkle
-
22 * 6
261 Grazon Against Woolly Wullens 25 * 2
262 Magic Carpet Ride
-
26 * 2
  Rumour Mill
264 Eight Hour Rule 25 ** 1
265 Crecendo 26 ** 1
266 Muzzas 22 ** 1
267 Pearl 21 *** 2
268 Canary in a Coal Mine 23 ** 3
269 Touch Of Gray 25 * 1
270 Stolen Thunder 18 ** 5
271 Credit Crunch 18 * 2
272 Losing Streak 20 *** 2
  Trackside
274 Humble 30 ** 1
  Sharon Stone
276 Total Recall 19 * 1
277 Hearts and Minds 21 ** 5
278 Need To Unwind
-
23 *** 1
279 Forgive and Forget 24 * 2
280 Ode to the Golden Pelt
-
26 * 2
  Rock Hudson
282 Riddled with Aids 18 *  
283 Thing 2 18 ** 2
284 Tony's Attraction 18 * 2
285 Cafe Chatter 17 * 2
  Far Horizon
287 One Ton 27 ** 1
288 Liquefaction 26 * 1
289 Komatsu 26 *** 2
290 D8 27 ** 1
  Riverside
292 The Valsalva Manoeuvre
-
16 15
293 Infinite Inveigling
-
16 * 19
294 Dog Leg
-
12 21
Climb name Grade
295 Occupational Therapy
-
14 24
296 Generation X
-
16 * 28
297 Right Ascension
-
14 * 24
298 Progressive Leadership 14 * 12
299 Supersize Me
-
15 20
300 Zoftig 12 7
301 Grandma Funk
-
16 * 13
302 Cryptology
-
19 * 13
303 Terrain Spotting
-
17 ** 22
304 Te Whanau
-
18 ** 25
305 Get Kerfuffled
-
17 17
306 The Incredible Present 15 1
307 Great for the Missus 19 3
308 Jack Be Nimble 23 *** 5
309 Anti Walk Device 23 ** 6
310 Inshallah 25 * 3
311 Moana Magic
-
27 * 4
312 Changes in Time 25 ** 1
313 Lollapalooza
-
25 *** 7
314 Te Timatanga 30 * 1
315 Zoot Alors
-
23 *** 10
316 The Engorger 24 ** 3
317 Hasta Luego 24 ** 2
318 Honey I Blew Up the Atoll
-
22 * 10
319 Lightning Head 24 * 1
320 Microcosmos
-
25 * 2
  Garden Bar
322 Glen's
-
15 1
323 Twisting by the Pool 14 1
324 Yang
-
17 1
  Toad Hall
326 Crocadoos and Kangadiles
-
22 * 1
327 Back, Crack and Sac Wax 27 * 1
328 River Rat
-
26 ** 3
329 Mr Toad
-
28 ** 2
330 Recidivism
-
27 ** 2
  Roadside Attraction
332 Judges Wine 16 * 12
333 Spider Pig 12 7
334 Elvis Trashes his Car
-
15 * 31
335 Strawberry
-
15 * 37
336 Self Directed Learning Tool
-
17 5
337 Aratuatahi
-
16 ** 43
338 Practising Arms 20 13
339 Aspiring Arseholes 16 ** 31
340 Slightly English
-
18 * 20
341 Nasal Excavations
-
18 * 19
342 The Ramp
-
18 * 8
343 Papal's Nasal
-
18 * 9
344 Aretenaphobia
-
21 *** 32
345 Flying Guts
-
26 2
346 Up Your Scud 23 ** 4
347 Short Cut to Exposure
-
17 *** 22
348 Crumble 28 1
  Alcove
350 Handful of Scroggin 21 *  
351 Ole
-
18 * 6
352 Where's Dr. Holdfinder?
-
23 ** 6
353 The Colonel's Secret
-
22 ** 9
354 Chinese Hospitality
-
19 * 7
355 The Fearsome Flounder 24 *  
356 Roche Moutonnee 23 *** 5
357 Bob The Builder 25 ** 3
358 Huha
-
26 ** 4
359 Reefer Madness 21 * 2
360 The Army Route
-
19 * 4
361 Do You Do 26 * 3
362 Shuffling Madness 24 * 1
363 Roger The Roofer 28  
  Far Side
365 Pam's Instant 17 1
366 Fine Ground 22 **  
367 Short Black 26 1
368 Grinder 23  
369 Footrot Flats 16 2
370 Yankee Doodle Dancy 18 1
371 Bloodline 19 * 2
372 Girl on the Run 22 * 2
373 On Bidet 25 1
374 Boguns
-
17 3
375 Bogans (Direct Start) 17 * 2
376 The Crystal Line 21  
377 Back to Terra Firma 20 * 3
378 Girl Trouble
-
17 * 7
379 In Flagrante Delecto
-
19 ** 10
380 Jock the Frotterer
-
18 ** 12
381 Beyond Boredom And Anxiety 16 * 8
382 Clean Me
-
16 * 8
  Pearly Gates
384 Gecko
-
20 *** 3
385 Life After Forty 20 ** 1
386 Going With The Flow 17 ** 3
  Phoebe Creek
388 Zizagy
-
19 *** 1
389 Sex Beat
-
20 *** 2
  Mt Iron - Next Best Thing
391 Rubber Monkey 1 20 4
392 Rubber Monkey 2 20 2
393 Brass Monkey 23 * 2
394 Stool Pigeon 23 * 2
395 Toe the Line
-
19 ** 15
396 Pump Iron 21 7
397 Badgers Will Rule the World
-
22 2
398 Spiral Staircase 20 13
399 Chink in the Armour 21 * 9
400 Mind Bender
-
25 * 3
401 Crossroads 22 * 4
402 No More 'Brownes Cows" 12 4
403 Route R of Toe the Line * 20 4
  Ironside
405 The Prickly Lawyer 20 4
406 A Sharp Prick 23 * 2
407 Bush Lawyer 22 ** 5
408 Supersonic 22 * 4
409 Sonic 20 * 8
410 Easily The Best Route On The Crag 23 * 3
411 The Freemantle Extended Remix 24 * 2
412 Irony 25 *** 4
413 Steelworks 23 ** 6
414 Iron Maiden 22 ** 7
415 Out On The Edge 20 * 3
  Middle Curtain
417 Sidewinder 19 2
418 Mine, Mine, Mine 25 * 1
419 AP32 22 ** 6
420 Hoover
-
20 2
421 Manoueve 25 * 2
422 Pick Pocket 28 ** 1
  Iron Curtain
424 The Bastard From Lagoon Ave
-
25 ** 3
425 Atomic #26 27 ** 2
426 The Good Bastard
-
27 *** 3
427 The Bastard From Gunn Road
-
25 *** 6
428 The Complete Bastard
-
27 * 3
429 I May be Old, But At least I'm Crusty
-
23 ** 12
430 Mezzanine 25 ** 4
431 Right Bastard 26 ** 7
432 Spanking the Kat 17 8
433 Red Gecko 27 ** 3
434 Pitchin and Moanin
-
19 10
435 Right Mezzanine * 27 ** 1
436 Mystery 24 * 24 * 1
437 Mystery Bastard Mezzanine * 27 * 1
  UNSORTED
439 New route
-
24 1
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer disturbed_one51