UKC

Climbs 71
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 1353m a.s.l
Faces all

Crag features

Sport climbing: A crag of two parts consisting of a large section of face climbs and also free standing smaller boulders. Currently being developed by local climbers. All on Scilar Dolomite, carved by water, the routes are either vertical face or short, powerful overhanging lines.

Ice climbing: There are quite a number of ice falls in the valley, and owing to the fact that the valley has been completely unchanged by skiing, the climbs are authentic gems which should not be missed. Of course proper preparation is required as access is a little more difficult. 

Click here for a short video about the ice climb Ringo: www.youtube.com/watch?v=6svQidb_dy0

Approach notes

From the Agordina valley, take the road towards Falcade and then turn off towards Canale di Agordo following signs to Val di Gares. After 7km turn left towards Cappana Cima Comelle and park. From here the boulders are reached by following a track over a bridge near the hut and up towards the boulders. The face sector, walk up the valley towards the Gares waterfall which is signposted. Take a path left before you reach the stream for 100m until you reach the wall on the right. For the rest of the crag, cross the stream and keep going for circa 300m until you are by a pine and then climb the hill.

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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Falesia
2 Findus
-
6c  
3 Ispettore Gaget
-
7a  
4 Venere
-
Project  
5 Free man
-
Project  
6 Maggioco climberno 7b+  
7 Maggioco climberno pitch 2
-
6c  
8 Maggioco climberno pitch 3
-
Project  
9 Fredda ironia
-
Project  
10 Dolasilla
-
7a+  
11 Spit fire
-
6c  
12 Lucianetti OK
-
7b ***  
13 Newton
-
Project  
14 L'artiglio del diavolo
-
7a  
15 Mon amour
-
7a+  
  Settore "Placca"
17 Treccia d'oro
-
5c  
18 Azola
-
6b  
19 Raponzolo
-
6b+ **  
20 Flor de la nieve
-
6c+  
  Sas Slis
22 Tete blonce
-
7b **  
23 Chela dal formai
-
Project  
24 Neri non per caso
-
7c+  
25 Blocco di partenza
-
Project  
26 El fum dei pec
-
Project  
27 Tonkita
-
Project  
Climb name Grade
  Sas de le Gothe
29 Torcia umana
-
5a  
30 Lucia ultraviolenta
-
5a  
31 Elsa & Carota
-
5c **  
32 No bambi!
-
5b  
33 Abbastanza Panza
-
5c  
34 Anca col bagna
-
6a+  
35 Davandi
-
Project  
36 Grongo
-
7a+ **  
37 Tiziana
-
Project  
38 Nimitz
-
6a+ ***  
  Sas dei Vediei
40 Uova di mucca
-
6a ***  
41 Occhio di bue
-
6b **  
42 Tor da coa
-
6a  
43 La brusa!!!
-
5a **  
  Sas del Gir
45 No spit no parti
-
6a  
46 Fagiolino
-
6a+  
47 Overdose di banane
-
6a+  
48 E arrivato Topo Gigio
-
6b **  
49 Il potente
-
6c **  
50 Rainman
-
6a ***  
51 Giocco
-
6a+  
52 Braccobaldos
-
6a+  
53 Pornoattore ambulante
-
6c ***  
54 Fuochi d'artificio
-
6b **  
Climb name Grade
  Sas del Galina
56 Opinel
-
5c  
57 Love
-
Project ***  
58 Duff che chifo!
-
6c **  
59 Se no sa se 7as
-
7b+  
60 Evviva la vita
-
7a+ **  
61 Ociu mi
-
7c+ **  
62 La Prua
-
Project  
  Sas dei Popi
64 Nonna Papera
-
5b  
65 Paperino
-
6c **  
66 Qui Quo Qua
-
5c **  
67 Zio Paperone
-
6a+  
68 Paperina
-
6a+ **  
69 Paperoga
-
5b **  
70 Gastone
-
6b+ ***  
71 Val de la Pissa WI-3+ **  
  Ice climbs
73 Candela WI-5+ *  
74 Mostro Sacro WI-5+ **  
75 Tris WI-3+ **  
76 Salice Piangente WI-3+ **  
77 La Prova del Nove WI-4 *  
78 The end WI-3+ ***  
79 Tre per tre WI-5 ***  
80 Ringo WI-5 **  

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