Climbs 120
Rocktype Basalt
Altitude 42m a.s.l
Faces S

Belaying on multi-pitch at Clecy. © Luke Brooks

Crag features

The crag is situated in the "Rocher des Parcs" near the village of Clecy (approx 35 km South of Caen and approx 22 km West of Falaise) in the Calvados region of Normandy (an area known as the Suisse Normande). The crag occupies a picturesque setting above the west bank of the river Orne.

Routes vary from F3 to F7c and from 1 to 3 pitches.
(19 at F3/3+, 33 at F4a/b/c, 362 at F5a/b/c, 44 at F6a/b/c and 7 at F7a/b/c). Rock is described as puddingstone or quartzite by people, I'd describe it as blocky metamorphic stuff with layers of quartz pebbles occasionally. Bolting consists of glue-in rings, the spacings of which are mostly generous and only sometimes is it a bit bold. Belays are either chains or pairs of larger rings to facilitate abseils. The regular bolts are too small to ab off so take care in planning so you dont have to abandon gear. There are a lot more Ab belays than the topos show. The guidebook says to use a 70m rope and 12 quickdraws, but a single 50m is fine for 85% of the routes as long as you don't mind doing the odd extra abseil. Most routes have the names painted at the base.

The guidebook (topo) "Escalade a Clecy" (2012) by the Club Alpin Francais is available for 10 euros from the Tourist Information in Clecy village square.

If anyone local wants to take over moderating this crag then please do, my only qualification is one visit and a guidebook :-)

Approach notes

Clecy is situated on the D562 (which runs South from Caen, approx 30 - 40 minutes drive) or 100 miles from St.Malo. Drive into the village and follow the signs for "Camping Rocher des Parcs". There is limited parking on the far side of the village (approx 6 cars) outside the campsite. Opposite the entrance to the campsite a track leads up to a railway bridge, take the steps up to the disused railway and then rightwards over the bridge and along it to a footpath (green post) to the crag just before the viaduct (10 minutes).

Alternatively, drive down to the viaduct where there is more parking, follow the track on foot under the viaduct and take the well worn path to the left shortly after the viaduct. After ~500m up the hill you will come across the first buttress. The crag is situated above the river opposite the Centre Nautique. There is a clear map (OS style) in the front of the guidebook.

Reasonably priced camping is available at the Camping Rocher Des Parcs, the entrance to which is directly opposite the start of the path up to the crag.

Guidebook is very good - still available in the Tourist information in Clecy. The local activity centre has built a high ropes course across the middle half of the crag none too sensitively from around the top of Toboggan wall to Pagode wall. It doesn't appear to obstruct any climbs but beware of groups when topping out on some climbs. On nice days crag can be busy with groups of 30+ young people under instruction from the centre but it's big enough so you can wander up the other end for some (relative) peace.
Angrypenguin - 28/Jul/14
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Les Plaques
2 La Dalle du bout du monde 6a+  
3 Le Doigt de Dieu
-
4a 2
4 La Mégère
-
5c 1
5 L'Envolée
-
4a 1
6 L'Avionnée
-
4b 2
7 L'Avoinée
-
4a 3
8 La Maurice
-
3+ 11
9 La Bis
-
4c 21
10 La Bis directe 6a * 7
11 La Dalle du Frustre
-
4c 13
  Les DÉlices du Diable
13 La Dalle Des Debutants 3 4
14 Le Premier Pilier 5c 2
15 Le Premier Pilier direct 6a  
16 La Lorenzo
-
7b  
17 Les Délices du Diable
-
6b+ * 1
18 L'Annie
-
6b * 1
19 La Tire-Bouchon 5c ** 3
  Toboggan
21 Testa di Catzo 6b  
22 La Rallye 67
-
6c  
23 Le COB
-
5b ** 7
24 Dust in the wind
-
6b * 3
25 Les Coins de bois
-
6a * 1
26 DTC Club 6b+  
27 Phoebe
-
7c  
28 La Souris 4a 10
29 La Dalle de la Souris
-
4c 19
30 La Résurrection
-
4c 14
31 Le Pilier Des Cathares
-
3+ 5
32 Le Toboggan 4c * 17
33 Podoko
-
3+ 5
  Beaujolaise
35 La Boîte aux lettres 4a  
36 Les Quatre pitons 6a+ 1
37 Les Reflets d'illusion
-
6c  
38 Les Chemins du futur
-
7b+  
39 La Source
-
5c 2
40 L'Ombilic
-
3+ 4
41 La Beaujolaise
-
5b 3
42 Chercheur d'air 6b+  
43 Scro-gneu-gneu 7a  
44 Nec+
-
7a  
45 Kiki le gendarme
-
6a  
  Grands Surplombs
47 Génération 90 7a  
48 L'Œil du prophète 6b+  
49 La Voiturette 3+ 2
50 Les Grands Surplombs
-
6b 1
51 Ticket pour un taquet
-
7c  
52 Dressitude
-
6c  
53 La Couronne
-
3+  
  Pagode
55 L'Inconnue 5c 2
56 La Pagode 5c *** 3
57 Loreleï 5b  
58 La Stéph 1  
59 Le Deuxieme Pilier 5c 1
  Cataracte
61 L'Escapade 2 3+ 4
62 La Débandade 3+ 3
63 Verouille... La Rouille 3 7
64 La Cataracte
-
6a 1
65 La Tardive 6c 1
66 La Tarte Aux Pommes 4a 15
67 Chocolate 4c 14
68 La Galette 4b 15
  Francoise
70 Nicole avale 4c * 6
71 La Francoise 5a * 8
72 La Glücke 4c 2
73 La Pollux 5b * 4
  Reposante
75 Eh! Ben voillà!!! 3+ 6
76 J'Vous Dis Moi J'ouurs Dis 4c ** 11
77 La Reposante 3+ 12
78 La Reposante Direct 4a 9
79 La Veronique 5c *** 16
80 La Dalle Des Parisiens 6a *** 7
81 Les Moutardiers
-
6a 2
82 Neuneuil 5b 8
83 L'Archiduchesse 6a ** 6
84 L'Archiduc 5c ** 9
85 La Grosse fourre 5b  
86 Coco style 6a 2
  Essaim
88 Le Kyste et la mite
-
5a 8
89 L'Ondee
-
5c * 13
90 La Voie de Son Maitre 3+ *** 9
91 L'Essaim
-
5b 16
92 Les Seins 5c 4
93 Le Troisième pilier
-
5c  
94 No man's land
-
5b  
95 La Somnambule
-
3+  
  Le LÉthÉ
97 La Dalle des masochistes
-
4c  
98 Le Dièdre aux Oiseaux
-
4c 2
99 Le Dièdre Vert
-
4a 4
100 Le Léthé
-
6a 1
  Chartreuse
102 La Chartreuse
-
4c 12
103 la Chartreuse supérieure
-
5b 7
104 Le Bénitier 6a 6
  La Noire
106 L'Os à moelle 6c+  
107 La Biscotte
-
6c  
108 La Noire
-
5c  
109 La Noire Directe
-
6a * 3
110 Sans doigt, ni loi
-
6c  
111 Indiansong
-
6a+ * 1
112 Le Petit Jardin 4c 4
113 Psychose
-
6c  
  Z
115 La K-Fist
-
4c 6
116 La Z
-
6a 3
117 Monsieur Ouille
-
6a 3
118 La Groose et le vampire
-
5b 3
119 La Chimpanzodrome
-
5a 7
120 La Padeniak
-
4b 5
121 La Der Miche
-
4c 3
122 L'AOC
-
5c  
  FrontiÉre
124 La Brioche
-
6b  
125 Fissure Laville
-
6a  
126 Un Chambreur chambré
-
6a  
127 Bellevue
-
5b  
128 La Cathie
-
5a  

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