UKC

Climbs 183
Rocktype Granite
Altitude 380m a.s.l
Faces SW

a Dartmoor Panorama from Hound Tor © Dan Arkle

Crag features

Hound Tor is a popular place in the Summer for many reasons.

Firstly it was made famous after Sherlock Holmes encounter here with a grim and fearfull beast that can still be seen on nights of a Full Moon. In recent times its popularity stems from its sheep trimmed lawns which are a Picnicing Paradise (great place for the family while you climb), the local car park (with "The Hound of the Basketmeals" mobile cafe) and the views from the summit, all of which bring holidaymakers from far and wide.

After giving up on finding Stegadacea Chimney, the Trad climber will no doubt seek out the excellent Suspension Flake and Aerobic Wall before wondering which monkey put up Hung like a Baboon.

The Boulderer could look to P6 to warm up before visiting the essential Sharks Fin Boulder, 5C Wall, the mean P23 & the jug filled P102. Feeling lucky, the hardcore Boulderer can consider Prowed, Cosmetix, The Barrel Rockover & The Cream Traverse amongst others.

Finally either trad climbers or boulderers can try out Skin Graft just to ensure they have absolutely no skin left at the end of the day.

The Nick White guide includes major routes but for a much more comprehensive view of this Granite Gem (IMHO essential) go to the javu.co.uk website.

Approach notes

From the M5, continue onto the A38 then follow signs to Bovey Tracey.

From the Bovey roundabout (the second, look for the Granite block feature), turn left following signs firstly for Moretonhampstead, then left to Widecombe in the Moor.

Keep on going up the great big hill that eventually brings you out at Hay Tor. Hound Tor is on the other side of the valley to Hay Tor so keep on going round till you can turn right onto the other side of the Valley. If your going down a big hill turn around.

Another mile on, Hound Tor becomes visible (on right), turn right and park up. Two minute walk in.

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Guidebooks

West Country Climbs

West Country Climbs is a major Rockfax guide to one of the UK’s most celebrated, sunny and diverse climbing regions. The book is fashioned in Rockfax’s award-winning layout and design, and copiously illustrated with action photographs of the climbs and cliffs that reflect the quality and variety of climbing experiences to be had on offer in the UK’s most popular holiday destination - the West Country. This is a selected route and buttress guidebook which covers the best 900 routes from the crags listed below.
More info
Note also that Hound tor is quite special in tha way that many of these problems are somewhere in the grey area between bouldering and soloing *ahem* "highball". The grading system works where V grades apply to normal length boulder problems, if there is no Trad grade but a tech grade it probabally doesnt deserve a rope but then again you probabally don't want to fall off the top.
John_Warner - 29/Apr/07
With help from some others, especially freelancer_85, (nearly) all routes and boulder problems have been added. However - many of these routes have no descriptions - or stars, this isn't because the crag is pants, theyre just unknown. So if you climb a route make sure you vote on it, and if you have a sensible description that differs from the Javu one feel free to add it. Cheers
John_Warner - 29/Apr/07
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  The Perched Block Area
2 Perched Block Chimney M 67
3 Lichenthrope E4 6b  
4 Hob Hound Easy VD 14
5 Toltec Twostep E6 6c ** 30
6 Toltec Twostep Direct E5 6c 3
7 Suspension Flake VS 4c *** 1164
8 The Savile Feeling E5 6b * 4
9 Cantilever Direct HS 4b 73
10 Cantilever Crack VS 4c 114
11 Last Flinger E1 5c 60
12 Janelle HS 4b * 20
13 P5 (Javu) Perched Block Arete V3 6a 40
14 P6 (Javu) Perched Block Traverse V2 5c ** 147
15 P6 (Javu) Perched Block Traverse Sit Start V3 6a 23
16 Wall on Slopers (Boulder Britain - Route 6) V1 5a 114
17 Wall on Slopers Sit Start f6B 60
18 Groove f4 49
19 P7 (Javu) Layback Crack VB 3c 215
20 P8 (Javu) Perched Block Wall VB 4c 195
21 Easy Wall (Boulder Britain - Route 2) f4 73
22 Arete (Boulder Britain - Route 1) f4 56
23 P12 (Javu) VB 4c 25
24 P13 (Javu)
-
V0- 4a 24
25 Fogou VS 4c * 90
26 P15 (Javu) V0 5c 6
27 Dead Dog Rib E2 5b 29
28 Kisvaen Corner E3 6a 11
29 The Hobbit E5 6b  
30 Sheep May Safely Graze S 4a 167
31 Skin Graft Too VB 4a 2
32 P19 (Javu) V0+ 4c 9
33 Hobhound E3 5b 47
34 Hobble E5 6c  
35 Flake (Boulder Britain - Route 4) * VE 3+ 1
36 Wall (Boulder Britain - Route 3) * VB 2
37 Fougou VS 4c * 30
38 Perched Block Arete V2 16
  Short Wall South of Perched Block
40 P9 (Javu) Mid Wall Crack VB 4c 125
41 P10 (Javu) V4 6b 26
42 P11 (Javu) Low Traverse V4 6b 9
43 P28 (Javu) Back Wall V1 5a * 17
44 Blossom f6B+ ** 2
  Short Arete Block
46 P21 (Javu) V4 6b 4
47 Nose (Boulder Britain - Route 8) f6A+ 6
48 Nose Sit Start (Boulder Britain - Route 8) f6B 2
49 Traverse (Boulder Britain - Route 10) f6B  
50 P 22 (Javu) VB 4c 39
51 P23 (Javu) Short Left Arete V4 6b *** 48
52 P24(Javu) Short L Arête Sit Start V4 6b ** 17
53 P25 (Javu) V4 6b 11
54 P26 (Javu) V0 5a 35
55 P27 (Javu) V5 6a/b 6
  Sharks Fin Area
57 P29 (Javu) L Hand Shark Line V0- 5a 309
58 P30 (Javu) V3 6a * 181
59 Wish V5 6b 73
60 The Wish (Low Start) V6 6c 9
61 Shark's Fin V1 5c *** 607
62 Sharks Fin Double Dyno V1 5b *** 80
63 Wish-ish ! V2 5b * 20
64 P34 (javu) High Traverse V7 6
65 P35 (Javu) V6 6b/c 1
66 Mako V11 3
67 The Shark Fin Girdle V0 4c 22
Climb name Grade
68 P36 (Javu) V0 5c 31
69 P37 (Javu) V1 5c 20
70 P38 (Javu) VB 3c 3
71 Barnaby's Crack V2 6a 8
72 P40 (Javu) Slanting Flake Crack V2 6a ** 10
73 Problem: 42 (Javu) V3 6a ** 10
74 Ozzie's Wall HS 4b ** 34
75 Bicton! V5 6b *** 4
  Top Hat Area
77 Problem: 44 (Javu)
-
V0- 4a * 58
78 Top Hat M 61
79 P45 (Javu) V0- 4a 89
80 P46 (Javu) V0 5a 80
81 P47 (Javu) V0- 4b 82
82 P48 (Javu) V0- 4c 82
83 P49 (Javu) L Wall Arete V0 5a 58
84 P49b (Javu) V2 5b 14
85 P50 (Javu) Diagonal Crack VB 3c ** 130
86 P51 (Javu) Arête L of Diagonal Crack VB 3c 75
87 P52 (Javu) V2 5c 18
88 Project P: 53 (Javu) none  
89 P54 (Javu) V3 6a 9
  Aerobic Wall
91 Aerobic Wall E2 5c * 468
92 P56 (Javu) R Wall E2 6a 11
93 Limbo Dancer E4 5c ** 59
94 P58 (Javu) E4 6a 3
95 P59 (Javu) E3 5b 3
96 Aerobic Traverse V2 5c ** 169
  Skin Graft Boulder
98 Skin Graft V2 5c * 140
99 Cosmetix V5 6b * 68
  5c Wall Area
101 P62 (Javu) Left Arete VB 4c 91
102 P63 (Javu) SS L Arete V4 6b 82
103 P64 (Javu) V0 5a 101
104 P65 (Javu) Prow V3 6a ** 123
105 Left edge 5c Wall
-
VB 4b 9
106 5c Wall V1 5b ** 305
107 P67 (Javu) Undercut Start V4 6b 77
108 Filet Mignon VB 4a * 11
109 Chav-Wagon V1 5b * 18
110 The Horn V1 5c ** 168
111 Little Prow Traverse V5 6b/c * 17
112 P64 (Javu) sit start V3 12
  Anaerobic Wall
114 P69 (Javu) Left Wall V2 5a 15
115 Anaerobic Crack E1 5c ** 140
116 Anaerobic Arete E2 6a 49
117 P72 (Javu) V2 5b 7
118 P73 (Javu) V2 5b 6
  Top of the Tor
120 Cut Off E5 6a 3
121 P74 (Javu) V1 5c 4
122 Top Prow V3 6a ** 12
123 William Crossing V5 6b 1
124 P77 (Javu) Rounded Traverse V2 6a 3
125 Wall and Arete E2 6a 1
  The Little Prow Area
127 Raw Onion Boyz E2 6a * 6
128 Prowler VS 5a 201
129 Little Prow (boulder problem) V2 5c ** 196
130 Little Prow E1 5c * 138
131 Prowed V5 6b ** 83
132 P81 (Javu) Prowed Dyno V7 6b 6
133 P82 (Javu)
-
V0 5b 52
134 P84 (Javu) V6 6c 8
Climb name Grade
135 Scorn E4 6a * 15
136 P87 (Javu)
-
V0 5b 8
137 Not so Prowed * V2 ** 1
  The Pulpit Block
139 Hydraulic Arete HVS 5b * 266
140 Stegadacea Chimney D 48
141 Stegadacea Chimney (variation) S 4a 8
142 Right Chimney VD 46
143 Avarice E3 5c *  
144 Hydraulic Wall HVS 5a ** 11
145 The Vice VD ** 451
146 Pulpit HVD * 653
147 Devonleigh HVD ** 523
148 Paddy M ** 641
149 Paddy Variation M 19
150 P91 (Javu) / One Move Wonder HS 5a * 209
  Liars Dice Wall
152 No Dice MVS 4c 7
153 Liars Dice S * 1011
154 P93 (Javu) HVS 4c 78
155 Liar's Arete VD 86
156 P94 (Javu) HS 4b 70
157 P95 (Javu) V1 5c * 57
158 P96 (Javu)
-
V5 6b 12
  The Shady Side of the Avenue
160 Downward Bound E2 5c * 35
161 Rob's Crack V2 5b 12
162 Rob's Bum Crack V2 5c 7
163 P100 (Javu) aka Overhanging Jugs V0- 4c *** 65
164 P100b (Javu) Jugs sit start V7 * 7
165 P101 (Javu) OH Jugs Traverse in fm R V0+ 4c 9
166 It Goes at About Vdiff VD 56
167 The Real V Diff VD 8
  Full Moon Sector
169 P102 (Javu) Rounded Arete V1 5b ** 94
170 P103 (Javu) Low Start V2 6a * 83
171 P102 (Javu) Rounded Break Start V1 6a 11
172 P104 (Javu) Rounded Wall V0- 4c 65
173 Teenage Mutant Ninja Slippers HVS 4c 20
174 Full Moon E3 5c * 4
175 Werewolf * E5 6b  
  The Tuppy Boulder
177 P107 (Javu) V4 6b 20
178 The Barrel Rockover (Sit Start) V8 ** 24
179 Tuppy V9 6c 1
180 Stray Dog (Gone Defective) V9 6c *  
  The Dark Half
182 Skuzz Bucket E4 6a * 1
183 Hung Like a Baboon E5 6c * 5
184 Never Trust a Monkey E6 6c  
185 Slime Time HVS 5b  
186 P112 (Javu)
-
V3 6a 2
187 P113 (Javu) Al Smith Stand Start V5 6b 21
188 Alan Smith V9 7a * 17
189 Jayne V7 6c 1
190 Panyan E4 6b  
191 Project P: 115 (Javu) none  
192 The Cream Traverse V8 6c ** 31
193 The Newt
-
D 4
194 The Dog And The Crow V3 1
195 PADDY DIRECT ?? * D 1
196 Pedestal * V1 1
197 Wall and flake * V0 1
198 Wall from undercuts * V2 1
199 Alan smith alcove left wall arete * V1 1
200 Alan smith alcove left wall * V0 1
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Matt Smith