Climbs 172
Rocktype Granite
Altitude 380m a.s.l
Faces SW

a Dartmoor Panorama from Hound Tor © Dan Arkle

Crag features

Hound Tor is a popular place in the Summer for many reasons.

Firstly it was made famous after Sherlock Holmes encounter here with a grim and fearfull beast that can still be seen on nights of a Full Moon. In recent times its popularity stems from its sheep trimmed lawns which are a Picnicing Paradise (great place for the family while you climb), the local car park (with "The Hound of the Basketmeals" mobile cafe) and the views from the summit, all of which bring holidaymakers from far and wide.

After giving up on finding Stegadacea Chimney, the Trad climber will no doubt seek out the excellent Suspension Flake and Aerobic Wall before wondering which monkey put up Hung like a Baboon.

The Boulderer could look to P6 to warm up before visiting the essential Sharks Fin Boulder, 5C Wall, the mean P23 & the jug filled P102. Feeling lucky, the hardcore Boulderer can consider Prowed, Cosmetix, The Barrel Rockover & The Cream Traverse amongst others.

Finally either trad climbers or boulderers can try out Skin Graft just to ensure they have absolutely no skin left at the end of the day.

The Nick White guide includes major routes but for a much more comprehensive view of this Granite Gem (IMHO essential) go to the javu.co.uk website.

Approach notes

From the M5, continue onto the A38 then follow signs to Bovey Tracey.

From the Bovey roundabout (the second, look for the Granite block feature), turn left following signs firstly for Moretonhampstead, then left to Widecombe in the Moor.

Keep on going up the great big hill that eventually brings you out at Hay Tor. Hound Tor is on the other side of the valley to Hay Tor so keep on going round till you can turn right onto the other side of the Valley. If your going down a big hill turn around.

Another mile on, Hound Tor becomes visible (on right), turn right and park up. Two minute walk in.

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Guidebooks

West Country Climbs

West Country Climbs is a major Rockfax guide to one of the UK’s most celebrated, sunny and diverse climbing regions. The book is fashioned in Rockfax’s award-winning layout and design, and copiously illustrated with action photographs of the climbs and cliffs that reflect the quality and variety of climbing experiences to be had on offer in the UK’s most popular holiday destination - the West Country. This is a selected route and buttress guidebook which covers the best 900 routes from the crags listed below.
More info
Note also that Hound tor is quite special in tha way that many of these problems are somewhere in the grey area between bouldering and soloing *ahem* "highball". The grading system works where V grades apply to normal length boulder problems, if there is no Trad grade but a tech grade it probabally doesnt deserve a rope but then again you probabally don't want to fall off the top.
John_Warner - 29/Apr/07
With help from some others, especially freelancer_85, (nearly) all routes and boulder problems have been added. However - many of these routes have no descriptions - or stars, this isn't because the crag is pants, theyre just unknown. So if you climb a route make sure you vote on it, and if you have a sensible description that differs from the Javu one feel free to add it. Cheers
John_Warner - 29/Apr/07
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  The Perched Block Area
2 Perched Block Chimney M 54
3 Lichenthrope E4 6b  
4 Hob Hound Easy VD 11
5 Toltec Twostep E6 6c ** 35
6 Toltec Twostep Direct E5 6c 2
7 Suspension Flake VS 4c *** 1111
8 The Savile Feeling E5 6b * 4
9 Cantilever Direct HS 4b 70
10 Cantilever Crack VS 4c 104
11 Last Flinger E1 5c 49
12 Janelle HS 4b * 16
13 P5 (Javu) Perched Block Arete V3 6a 38
14 P6 (Javu) Perched Block Traverse V2 5c ** 122
15 P6 (Javu) Perched Block Traverse Sit Start V3 6a 15
16 Wall on Slopers (Boulder Britain - Route 6) V1 5a 87
17 Wall on Slopers Sit Start f6B 33
18 Groove f4 37
19 P7 (Javu) Layback Crack VB 3c 177
20 P8 (Javu) Perched Block Wall VB 4c 158
21 Easy Wall (Boulder Britain - Route 2) f4 42
22 Arete (Boulder Britain - Route 1) f4 37
23 P12 (Javu) VB 4c 22
24 P13 (Javu)
-
V0- 4a 21
25 Fogou VS 4c * 74
26 P15 (Javu) V0 5c 5
27 Dead Dog Rib E2 5b 27
28 Kisvaen Corner E3 6a 7
29 The Hobbit E5 6b  
30 Sheep May Safely Graze S 4a 146
31 Skin Graft Too VB 4a 2
32 P19 (Javu) V0+ 4c 8
33 Hobhound E3 5b 46
34 Hobble E5 6c  
35 Fougou * VS 4c * 3
  Short Wall South of Perched Block
37 P9 (Javu) Mid Wall Crack VB 4c 104
38 P10 (Javu) V4 6b 19
39 P11 (Javu) Low Traverse V4 6b 9
40 P28 (Javu) Back Wall V1 5a * 15
41 Blossom * f6B+ ** 1
  Short Arete Block
43 P21 (Javu) V4 6b 3
44 Nose (Boulder Britain - Route 8) f6A+ 3
45 Nose Sit Start (Boulder Britain - Route 8) f6B 1
46 Traverse (Boulder Britain - Route 10) f6B  
47 P 22 (Javu) VB 4c 39
48 P23 (Javu) Short Left Arete V4 6b *** 41
49 P24(Javu) Short L Arête Sit Start V4 6b ** 14
50 P25 (Javu) V4 6b 8
51 P26 (Javu) V0 5a 28
52 P27 (Javu) V5 6a/b 5
  Sharks Fin Area
54 P29 (Javu) L Hand Shark Line V0- 5a 261
55 P30 (Javu) V3 6a * 147
56 Wish V5 6b 68
57 The Wish (Low Start) V6 6c 6
58 Shark's Fin V1 5c *** 515
59 Sharks Fin Double Dyno V1 5b *** 71
60 Wish-ish ! V2 5b * 13
61 P34 (javu) High Traverse V7 4
62 P35 (Javu) V6 6b/c 1
63 Mako V11 2
64 The Shark Fin Girdle V0 4c 12
65 P36 (Javu) V0 5c 30
66 P37 (Javu) V1 5c 19
67 P38 (Javu) VB 3c  
68 Barnaby's Crack V2 6a 8
69 P40 (Javu) Slanting Flake Crack V2 6a ** 10
70 Problem: 42 (Javu) V3 6a ** 9
71 Ozzie's Wall HS 4b ** 30
72 Bicton! V5 6b *** 4
  Top Hat Area
74 Problem: 44 (Javu)
-
V0- 4a * 52
75 Top Hat M 55
76 P45 (Javu) V0- 4a 76
77 P46 (Javu) V0 5a 66
78 P47 (Javu) V0- 4b 74
79 P48 (Javu) V0- 4c 67
80 P49 (Javu) L Wall Arete V0 5a 51
81 P49b (Javu) V2 5b 9
82 P50 (Javu) Diagonal Crack VB 3c ** 110
83 P51 (Javu) Arête L of Diagonal Crack VB 3c 65
84 P52 (Javu) V2 5c 17
85 Project P: 53 (Javu) none  
86 P54 (Javu) V3 6a 9
  Aerobic Wall
88 Aerobic Wall E2 5c * 448
89 P56 (Javu) R Wall E2 6a 9
90 Limbo Dancer E4 5c ** 63
91 P58 (Javu) E4 6a 2
92 P59 (Javu) E3 5b 3
93 Aerobic Traverse V2 5c ** 126
  Skin Graft Boulder
95 Skin Graft V2 5c * 120
96 Cosmetix V5 6b * 61
  5c Wall Area
98 P62 (Javu) Left Arete VB 4c 76
99 P63 (Javu) SS L Arete V4 6b 62
100 P64 (Javu) V0 5a 86
101 P65 (Javu) Prow V3 6a ** 96
102 Left edge 5c Wall
-
VB 4b 8
103 5c Wall V1 5b ** 251
104 P67 (Javu) Undercut Start V4 6b 55
105 Filet Mignon VB 4a * 11
106 Chav-Wagon V1 5b * 12
107 The Horn V1 5c ** 160
108 Little Prow Traverse V5 6b/c * 16
109 P64 (Javu) sit start * V3 6a 1
  Anaerobic Wall
111 P69 (Javu) Left Wall V2 5a 14
112 Anaerobic Crack E1 5c ** 121
113 Anaerobic Arete E2 6a 48
114 P72 (Javu) V2 5b 7
115 P73 (Javu) V2 5b 5
  Top of the Tor
117 Cut Off E5 6a 3
118 P74 (Javu) V1 5c 4
119 Top Prow V3 6a ** 12
120 William Crossing V5 6b 1
121 P77 (Javu) Rounded Traverse V2 6a 2
122 Wall and Arete E2 6a 1
  The Little Prow Area
124 Raw Onion Boyz E2 6a * 6
125 Prowler VS 5a 175
126 Little Prow (boulder problem) V2 5c ** 166
127 Little Prow E1 5c * 125
128 Prowed V5 6b ** 71
129 P81 (Javu) Prowed Dyno V7 6b 4
130 P82 (Javu)
-
V0 5b 47
131 P84 (Javu) V6 6c 6
132 Scorn E4 6a * 15
133 P87 (Javu)
-
V0 5b 8
  The Pulpit Block
135 Hydraulic Arete HVS 5b * 238
136 Stegadacea Chimney D 43
137 Stegadacea Chimney (variation) S 4a 6
138 Right Chimney VD 44
139 Avarice E3 5c *  
140 Hydraulic Wall HVS 5a ** 11
141 The Vice VD ** 415
142 Pulpit HVD * 601
143 Devonleigh HVD ** 442
144 Paddy M ** 556
145 Paddy Variation M 12
146 P91 (Javu) / One Move Wonder HS 5a * 142
  Liars Dice Wall
148 No Dice MVS 4c 5
149 Liars Dice S * 931
150 P93 (Javu) HVS 4c 65
151 Liar's Arete VD 71
152 P94 (Javu) HS 4b 66
153 P95 (Javu) V1 5c * 42
154 P96 (Javu)
-
V5 6b 11
  The Shady Side of the Avenue
156 Downward Bound E2 5c * 28
157 Rob's Crack V2 5b 11
158 Rob's Bum Crack V2 5c 6
159 P100 (Javu) aka Overhanging Jugs V0- 4c *** 60
160 P100b (Javu) Jugs sit start V7 * 6
161 P101 (Javu) OH Jugs Traverse in fm R V0+ 4c 8
162 It Goes at About Vdiff VD 23
163 The Real V Diff * VD 3
  Full Moon Sector
165 P102 (Javu) Rounded Arete V1 5b ** 87
166 P103 (Javu) Low Start V2 6a * 66
167 P102 (Javu) Rounded Break Start V1 6a 7
168 P104 (Javu) Rounded Wall V0- 4c 55
169 Teenage Mutant Ninja Slippers HVS 4c 18
170 Full Moon E3 5c * 4
  The Tuppy Boulder
172 P107 (Javu) V4 6b 12
173 The Barrel Rockover (Sit Start) V8 ** 16
174 Tuppy V9 6c 1
175 Stray Dog (Gone Defective) V9 6c *  
  The Dark Half
177 Skuzz Bucket E4 6a * 1
178 Hung Like a Baboon E5 6c * 4
179 Never Trust a Monkey E6 6c  
180 Slime Time HVS 5b  
181 P112 (Javu)
-
V3 6a 2
182 P113 (Javu) Al Smith Stand Start V5 6b 19
183 Alan Smith V9 7a * 16
184 Jayne V7 6c 1
185 Panyan E4 6b  
186 Project P: 115 (Javu) none  
187 The Cream Traverse V8 6c ** 30
188 The Newt
-
D 4
189 The Dog And The Crow * V3 1
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

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