Climbs 187
Rocktype Granite
Altitude 414m a.s.l
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a Dartmoor Panorama from Hound Tor © Dan Arkle

Crag features

Hound Tor is a popular place in the Summer for many reasons.

Firstly it was made famous after Sherlock Holmes encounter here with a grim and fearfull beast that can still be seen on nights of a Full Moon. In recent times its popularity stems from its sheep trimmed lawns which are a Picnicing Paradise (great place for the family while you climb), the local car park (with "The Hound of the Basketmeals" mobile cafe) and the views from the summit, all of which bring holidaymakers from far and wide.

After giving up on finding Stegadacea Chimney, the Trad climber will no doubt seek out the excellent Suspension Flake and Aerobic Wall before wondering which monkey put up Hung like a Baboon.

The Boulderer could look to P6 to warm up before visiting the essential Sharks Fin Boulder, 5C Wall, the mean P23 & the jug filled P102. Feeling lucky, the hardcore Boulderer can consider Prowed, Cosmetix, The Barrel Rockover & The Cream Traverse amongst others.

Finally either trad climbers or boulderers can try out Skin Graft just to ensure they have absolutely no skin left at the end of the day.

The Nick White guide includes major routes but for a much more comprehensive view of this Granite Gem (IMHO essential) go to the javu.co.uk website.

Approach notes

From the M5, continue onto the A38 then follow signs to Bovey Tracey.

From the Bovey roundabout (the second, look for the Granite block feature), turn left following signs firstly for Moretonhampstead, then left to Widecombe in the Moor.

Keep on going up the great big hill that eventually brings you out at Hay Tor. Hound Tor is on the other side of the valley to Hay Tor so keep on going round till you can turn right onto the other side of the Valley. If your going down a big hill turn around.

Another mile on, Hound Tor becomes visible (on right), turn right and park up. Two minute walk in.

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Guidebooks

West Country Climbs

West Country Climbs is a major Rockfax guide to one of the UK’s most celebrated, sunny and diverse climbing regions. The book is fashioned in Rockfax’s award-winning layout and design, and copiously illustrated with action photographs of the climbs and cliffs that reflect the quality and variety of climbing experiences to be had on offer in the UK’s most popular holiday destination - the West Country. This is a selected route and buttress guidebook which covers the best 900 routes from the crags listed below.
More info
Note also that Hound tor is quite special in tha way that many of these problems are somewhere in the grey area between bouldering and soloing *ahem* "highball". The grading system works where V grades apply to normal length boulder problems, if there is no Trad grade but a tech grade it probabally doesnt deserve a rope but then again you probabally don't want to fall off the top.
John_Warner - 29/Apr/07
With help from some others, especially freelancer_85, (nearly) all routes and boulder problems have been added. However - many of these routes have no descriptions - or stars, this isn't because the crag is pants, theyre just unknown. So if you climb a route make sure you vote on it, and if you have a sensible description that differs from the Javu one feel free to add it. Cheers
John_Warner - 29/Apr/07
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
1 Hound Tor summit
-
summit 22
  The Perched Block Area
3 Perched Block Chimney M 71
4 Lichenthrope E4 6b  
5 Hob Hound Easy VD 14
6 Toltec Twostep E6 6c ** 30
7 Toltec Twostep Direct E5 6c 3
8 Suspension Flake VS 4c *** 1189
9 The Savile Feeling E5 6b * 4
10 Cantilever Direct HS 4b 76
11 Cantilever Crack VS 4c 115
12 Last Flinger E1 5c 61
13 Janelle HS 4b * 20
14 P5 (Javu) Perched Block Arete V3 6a 42
15 P6 (Javu) Perched Block Traverse V2 5c ** 154
16 P6 (Javu) Perched Block Traverse Sit Start V3 6a 24
17 Wall on Slopers (Boulder Britain - Route 6) V1 5a 116
18 Wall on Slopers Sit Start f6B 64
19 Groove (Boulder Britain Route 5) f4 51
20 P7 (Javu) Layback Crack VB 3c 218
21 P8 (Javu) Perched Block Wall VB 4c 197
22 Easy Wall (Boulder Britain - Route 2) f4 77
23 Arete (Boulder Britain - Route 1) f4 56
24 P12 (Javu) VB 4c 25
25 P13 (Javu)
-
V0- 4a 24
26 Fogou VS 4c * 93
27 P15 (Javu) V0 5c 6
28 Dead Dog Rib E2 5b 30
29 Kisvaen Corner E3 6a 11
30 The Hobbit E5 6b  
31 Sheep May Safely Graze S 4a 175
32 Skin Graft Too VB 4a 2
33 P19 (Javu) V0+ 4c 9
34 Hobhound E3 5b 47
35 Hobble E5 6c  
36 Fougou VS 4c * 34
37 Perched Block Arete V2 20
38 Flake (Boulder Britain - Route 4) V0 1
39 Wall (Boulder Britain - Route 3) VB 3
40 Wall far right (Boulder Britain 3.5) * V0+ 1
  Short Wall South of Perched Block
42 P9 (Javu) Mid Wall Crack VB 4c 131
43 P10 (Javu) V4 6b 33
44 P11 (Javu) Low Traverse V4 6b 9
45 P28 (Javu) Back Wall V1 5a * 18
46 Blossom f6B+ ** 2
  Short Arete Block
48 P21 (Javu) V4 6b 5
49 Nose (Boulder Britain - Route 8) f6A+ 6
50 Nose Sit Start (Boulder Britain - Route 8) f6B 2
51 Traverse (Boulder Britain - Route 10) f6B  
52 P 22 (Javu) VB 4c 40
53 P23 (Javu) Short Left Arete V4 6b *** 49
54 P24(Javu) Short L Arête Sit Start V4 6b ** 17
55 P25 (Javu) V4 6b 11
56 P26 (Javu) V0 5a 35
57 P27 (Javu) V5 6a/b 6
  Pedestal
59 Pedestal V1 1
60 Wall and flake V0 1
61 Wall from undercuts V2 1
62 Wall * V3 1
63 Pedestal wall traverse * V2 1
  Sharks Fin Area
65 P29 (Javu) L Hand Shark Line V0- 5a 313
66 P30 (Javu) V3 6a * 187
67 Wish V5 6b 74
68 The Wish (Low Start) V6 6c 11
69 Shark's Fin V1 5c *** 626
Climb name Grade
70 Sharks Fin Double Dyno V1 5b *** 84
71 Wish-ish ! V2 5b * 22
72 P34 (javu) High Traverse V7 6
73 P35 (Javu) V6 6b/c 1
74 Mako V11 3
75 The Shark Fin Girdle V0 4c 23
76 P36 (Javu) V0 5c 31
77 P37 (Javu) V1 5c 20
78 P38 (Javu) VB 3c 3
79 Barnaby's Crack V2 6a 8
80 P40 (Javu) Slanting Flake Crack V2 6a ** 10
81 Problem: 42 (Javu) V3 6a ** 10
82 Ozzie's Wall HS 4b ** 34
83 Bicton! V5 6b *** 4
  Top Hat Area
85 Problem: 44 (Javu)
-
V0- 4a * 58
86 Top Hat M 62
87 P45 (Javu) V0- 4a 89
88 P46 (Javu) V0 5a 81
89 P47 (Javu) V0- 4b 85
90 P48 (Javu) V0- 4c 85
91 P49 (Javu) L Wall Arete V0 5a 59
92 P49b (Javu) V2 5b 18
93 P50 (Javu) Diagonal Crack VB 3c ** 131
94 P51 (Javu) Arête L of Diagonal Crack VB 3c 75
95 P52 (Javu) V2 5c 18
96 Project P: 53 (Javu) none  
97 P54 (Javu) V3 6a 9
  Aerobic Wall
99 Aerobic Wall E2 5c * 479
100 P56 (Javu) R Wall E2 6a 11
101 Limbo Dancer E4 5c ** 62
102 P58 (Javu) E4 6a 3
103 P59 (Javu) E3 5b 3
104 Aerobic Traverse V2 5c ** 181
  Skin Graft Boulder
106 Skin Graft V2 5c * 148
107 Cosmetix V5 6b * 70
  5c Wall Area
109 P62 (Javu) Left Arete VB 4c 94
110 P63 (Javu) SS L Arete V4 6b 86
111 P64 (Javu) V0 5a 103
112 P65 (Javu) Prow V3 6a ** 133
113 Left edge 5c Wall
-
VB 4b 10
114 5c Wall V1 5b ** 320
115 P67 (Javu) Undercut Start V4 6b 81
116 Filet Mignon VB 4a * 11
117 Chav-Wagon V1 5b * 18
118 The Horn V1 5c ** 173
119 Little Prow Traverse V5 6b/c * 17
120 P64 (Javu) sit start V3 15
  Anaerobic Wall
122 P69 (Javu) Left Wall V2 5a 15
123 Anaerobic Crack E1 5c ** 145
124 Anaerobic Arete E2 6a 49
125 P72 (Javu) V2 5b 7
126 P73 (Javu) V2 5b 6
  Top of the Tor
128 Cut Off E5 6a 3
129 P74 (Javu) V1 5c 4
130 Top Prow V3 6a ** 12
131 William Crossing V5 6b 1
132 P77 (Javu) Rounded Traverse V2 6a 3
133 Wall and Arete E2 6a 1
  The Little Prow Area
135 Raw Onion Boyz E2 6a * 6
136 Prowler VS 5a 204
137 Little Prow (boulder problem) V2 5c ** 203
138 Little Prow E1 5c * 138
Climb name Grade
139 Prowed V5 6b ** 90
140 P81 (Javu) Prowed Dyno V7 6b 6
141 P82 (Javu)
-
V0 5b 52
142 P84 (Javu) V6 6c 8
143 Scorn E4 6a * 15
144 P87 (Javu)
-
V0 5b 9
145 Not so Prowed V2 ** 1
  The Pulpit Block
147 Hydraulic Arete HVS 5b * 273
148 Stegadacea Chimney D 49
149 Stegadacea Chimney (variation) S 4a 8
150 Right Chimney VD 47
151 Avarice E3 5c * 1
152 Hydraulic Wall HVS 5a ** 12
153 The Vice VD ** 457
154 Pulpit HVD * 668
155 Devonleigh HVD ** 535
156 Paddy M ** 657
157 Paddy Direct D 3
158 Paddy Variation M 21
159 P91 (Javu) / One Move Wonder HS 5a * 223
  Liars Dice Wall
161 No Dice MVS 4c 7
162 Liars Dice S * 1027
163 P93 (Javu) HVS 4c 79
164 Liar's Arete VD 88
165 P94 (Javu) HS 4b 70
166 P95 (Javu) V1 5c * 59
167 P96 (Javu)
-
V5 6b 12
  The Shady Side of the Avenue
169 Downward Bound E2 5c * 35
170 Rob's Crack V2 5b 12
171 Rob's Bum Crack V2 5c 7
172 P100 (Javu) aka Overhanging Jugs V0- 4c *** 67
173 P100b (Javu) Jugs sit start V7 * 7
174 P101 (Javu) OH Jugs Traverse in fm R V0+ 4c 9
175 It Goes at About Vdiff VD 57
176 The Real V Diff VD 8
  Full Moon Sector
178 P102 (Javu) Rounded Arete V1 5b ** 97
179 P103 (Javu) Low Start V2 6a * 87
180 P102 (Javu) Rounded Break Start V1 6a 13
181 P104 (Javu) Rounded Wall V0- 4c 69
182 Teenage Mutant Ninja Slippers HVS 4c 20
183 Full Moon E3 5c * 4
184 Werewolf E5 6b 1
  The Tuppy Boulder
186 P107 (Javu) V4 6b 20
187 The Barrel Rockover (Sit Start) V8 ** 27
188 Tuppy V9 6c 2
189 Stray Dog (Gone Defective) V9 6c *  
  The Dark Half
191 Skuzz Bucket E4 6a * 1
192 Hung Like a Baboon E5 6c * 5
193 Never Trust a Monkey E6 6c  
194 Slime Time HVS 5b  
195 P112 (Javu)
-
V3 6a 2
196 Alan smith alcove left wall arete V1 1
197 Alan smith alcove left wall V0 1
198 P113 (Javu) Al Smith Stand Start V5 6b 23
199 Alan Smith V9 7a * 17
200 Jayne V7 6c 1
201 Panyan E4 6b  
202 Project P: 115 (Javu) none  
203 The Cream Traverse V8 6c ** 34
204 The Newt
-
D 4
205 The Dog And The Crow V3 1
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

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