UKC

Climbs 180
Rocktype Granite
Altitude 380m a.s.l
Faces SW

a Dartmoor Panorama from Hound Tor © Dan Arkle

Crag features

Hound Tor is a popular place in the Summer for many reasons.

Firstly it was made famous after Sherlock Holmes encounter here with a grim and fearfull beast that can still be seen on nights of a Full Moon. In recent times its popularity stems from its sheep trimmed lawns which are a Picnicing Paradise (great place for the family while you climb), the local car park (with "The Hound of the Basketmeals" mobile cafe) and the views from the summit, all of which bring holidaymakers from far and wide.

After giving up on finding Stegadacea Chimney, the Trad climber will no doubt seek out the excellent Suspension Flake and Aerobic Wall before wondering which monkey put up Hung like a Baboon.

The Boulderer could look to P6 to warm up before visiting the essential Sharks Fin Boulder, 5C Wall, the mean P23 & the jug filled P102. Feeling lucky, the hardcore Boulderer can consider Prowed, Cosmetix, The Barrel Rockover & The Cream Traverse amongst others.

Finally either trad climbers or boulderers can try out Skin Graft just to ensure they have absolutely no skin left at the end of the day.

The Nick White guide includes major routes but for a much more comprehensive view of this Granite Gem (IMHO essential) go to the javu.co.uk website.

Approach notes

From the M5, continue onto the A38 then follow signs to Bovey Tracey.

From the Bovey roundabout (the second, look for the Granite block feature), turn left following signs firstly for Moretonhampstead, then left to Widecombe in the Moor.

Keep on going up the great big hill that eventually brings you out at Hay Tor. Hound Tor is on the other side of the valley to Hay Tor so keep on going round till you can turn right onto the other side of the Valley. If your going down a big hill turn around.

Another mile on, Hound Tor becomes visible (on right), turn right and park up. Two minute walk in.

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Guidebooks

West Country Climbs

West Country Climbs is a major Rockfax guide to one of the UK’s most celebrated, sunny and diverse climbing regions. The book is fashioned in Rockfax’s award-winning layout and design, and copiously illustrated with action photographs of the climbs and cliffs that reflect the quality and variety of climbing experiences to be had on offer in the UK’s most popular holiday destination - the West Country. This is a selected route and buttress guidebook which covers the best 900 routes from the crags listed below.
More info
Note also that Hound tor is quite special in tha way that many of these problems are somewhere in the grey area between bouldering and soloing *ahem* "highball". The grading system works where V grades apply to normal length boulder problems, if there is no Trad grade but a tech grade it probabally doesnt deserve a rope but then again you probabally don't want to fall off the top.
John_Warner - 29/Apr/07
With help from some others, especially freelancer_85, (nearly) all routes and boulder problems have been added. However - many of these routes have no descriptions - or stars, this isn't because the crag is pants, theyre just unknown. So if you climb a route make sure you vote on it, and if you have a sensible description that differs from the Javu one feel free to add it. Cheers
John_Warner - 29/Apr/07
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  The Perched Block Area
2 Perched Block Chimney M 61
3 Lichenthrope E4 6b  
4 Hob Hound Easy VD 13
5 Toltec Twostep E6 6c ** 30
6 Toltec Twostep Direct E5 6c 2
7 Suspension Flake VS 4c *** 1113
8 The Savile Feeling E5 6b * 4
9 Cantilever Direct HS 4b 69
10 Cantilever Crack VS 4c 110
11 Last Flinger E1 5c 57
12 Janelle HS 4b * 19
13 P5 (Javu) Perched Block Arete V3 6a 40
14 P6 (Javu) Perched Block Traverse V2 5c ** 136
15 P6 (Javu) Perched Block Traverse Sit Start V3 6a 21
16 Wall on Slopers (Boulder Britain - Route 6) V1 5a 106
17 Wall on Slopers Sit Start f6B 47
18 Groove f4 44
19 P7 (Javu) Layback Crack VB 3c 205
20 P8 (Javu) Perched Block Wall VB 4c 177
21 Easy Wall (Boulder Britain - Route 2) f4 57
22 Arete (Boulder Britain - Route 1) f4 47
23 P12 (Javu) VB 4c 24
24 P13 (Javu)
-
V0- 4a 23
25 Fogou VS 4c * 85
26 P15 (Javu) V0 5c 6
27 Dead Dog Rib E2 5b 29
28 Kisvaen Corner E3 6a 8
29 The Hobbit E5 6b  
30 Sheep May Safely Graze S 4a 162
31 Skin Graft Too VB 4a 2
32 P19 (Javu) V0+ 4c 8
33 Hobhound E3 5b 46
34 Hobble E5 6c  
35 Fougou VS 4c * 14
36 Perched Block Arete V2 6
  Short Wall South of Perched Block
38 P9 (Javu) Mid Wall Crack VB 4c 118
39 P10 (Javu) V4 6b 20
40 P11 (Javu) Low Traverse V4 6b 9
41 P28 (Javu) Back Wall V1 5a * 16
42 Blossom f6B+ ** 2
  Short Arete Block
44 P21 (Javu) V4 6b 3
45 Nose (Boulder Britain - Route 8) f6A+ 5
46 Nose Sit Start (Boulder Britain - Route 8) f6B 2
47 Traverse (Boulder Britain - Route 10) f6B  
48 P 22 (Javu) VB 4c 38
49 P23 (Javu) Short Left Arete V4 6b *** 46
50 P24(Javu) Short L Arête Sit Start V4 6b ** 17
51 P25 (Javu) V4 6b 10
52 P26 (Javu) V0 5a 33
53 P27 (Javu) V5 6a/b 6
  Sharks Fin Area
55 P29 (Javu) L Hand Shark Line V0- 5a 297
56 P30 (Javu) V3 6a * 166
57 Wish V5 6b 71
58 The Wish (Low Start) V6 6c 9
59 Shark's Fin V1 5c *** 569
60 Sharks Fin Double Dyno V1 5b *** 73
61 Wish-ish ! V2 5b * 16
62 P34 (javu) High Traverse V7 6
63 P35 (Javu) V6 6b/c 1
64 Mako V11 3
65 The Shark Fin Girdle V0 4c 18
66 P36 (Javu) V0 5c 31
Climb name Grade
67 P37 (Javu) V1 5c 19
68 P38 (Javu) VB 3c  
69 Barnaby's Crack V2 6a 8
70 P40 (Javu) Slanting Flake Crack V2 6a ** 10
71 Problem: 42 (Javu) V3 6a ** 10
72 Ozzie's Wall HS 4b ** 33
73 Bicton! V5 6b *** 4
  Top Hat Area
75 Problem: 44 (Javu)
-
V0- 4a * 56
76 Top Hat M 57
77 P45 (Javu) V0- 4a 87
78 P46 (Javu) V0 5a 78
79 P47 (Javu) V0- 4b 81
80 P48 (Javu) V0- 4c 78
81 P49 (Javu) L Wall Arete V0 5a 56
82 P49b (Javu) V2 5b 11
83 P50 (Javu) Diagonal Crack VB 3c ** 122
84 P51 (Javu) Arête L of Diagonal Crack VB 3c 70
85 P52 (Javu) V2 5c 18
86 Project P: 53 (Javu) none  
87 P54 (Javu) V3 6a 9
  Aerobic Wall
89 Aerobic Wall E2 5c * 455
90 P56 (Javu) R Wall E2 6a 10
91 Limbo Dancer E4 5c ** 55
92 P58 (Javu) E4 6a 3
93 P59 (Javu) E3 5b 3
94 Aerobic Traverse V2 5c ** 151
  Skin Graft Boulder
96 Skin Graft V2 5c * 136
97 Cosmetix V5 6b * 67
  5c Wall Area
99 P62 (Javu) Left Arete VB 4c 86
100 P63 (Javu) SS L Arete V4 6b 71
101 P64 (Javu) V0 5a 96
102 P65 (Javu) Prow V3 6a ** 112
103 Left edge 5c Wall
-
VB 4b 8
104 5c Wall V1 5b ** 278
105 P67 (Javu) Undercut Start V4 6b 67
106 Filet Mignon VB 4a * 11
107 Chav-Wagon V1 5b * 17
108 The Horn V1 5c ** 165
109 Little Prow Traverse V5 6b/c * 17
110 P64 (Javu) sit start V3 6
  Anaerobic Wall
112 P69 (Javu) Left Wall V2 5a 15
113 Anaerobic Crack E1 5c ** 131
114 Anaerobic Arete E2 6a 49
115 P72 (Javu) V2 5b 7
116 P73 (Javu) V2 5b 5
  Top of the Tor
118 Cut Off E5 6a 3
119 P74 (Javu) V1 5c 4
120 Top Prow V3 6a ** 12
121 William Crossing V5 6b 1
122 P77 (Javu) Rounded Traverse V2 6a 3
123 Wall and Arete E2 6a 1
  The Little Prow Area
125 Raw Onion Boyz E2 6a * 6
126 Prowler VS 5a 191
127 Little Prow (boulder problem) V2 5c ** 184
128 Little Prow E1 5c * 134
129 Prowed V5 6b ** 83
130 P81 (Javu) Prowed Dyno V7 6b 6
131 P82 (Javu)
-
V0 5b 51
132 P84 (Javu) V6 6c 8
Climb name Grade
133 Scorn E4 6a * 15
134 P87 (Javu)
-
V0 5b 8
135 Not so Prowed * V2 ** 1
  The Pulpit Block
137 Hydraulic Arete HVS 5b * 249
138 Stegadacea Chimney D 47
139 Stegadacea Chimney (variation) S 4a 6
140 Right Chimney VD 44
141 Avarice E3 5c *  
142 Hydraulic Wall HVS 5a ** 10
143 The Vice VD ** 436
144 Pulpit HVD * 632
145 Devonleigh HVD ** 492
146 Paddy M ** 611
147 Paddy Variation M 15
148 P91 (Javu) / One Move Wonder HS 5a * 187
  Liars Dice Wall
150 No Dice MVS 4c 6
151 Liars Dice S * 982
152 P93 (Javu) HVS 4c 76
153 Liar's Arete VD 80
154 P94 (Javu) HS 4b 67
155 P95 (Javu) V1 5c * 49
156 P96 (Javu)
-
V5 6b 11
  The Shady Side of the Avenue
158 Downward Bound E2 5c * 33
159 Rob's Crack V2 5b 12
160 Rob's Bum Crack V2 5c 7
161 P100 (Javu) aka Overhanging Jugs V0- 4c *** 65
162 P100b (Javu) Jugs sit start V7 * 7
163 P101 (Javu) OH Jugs Traverse in fm R V0+ 4c 9
164 It Goes at About Vdiff VD 47
165 The Real V Diff VD 5
  Full Moon Sector
167 P102 (Javu) Rounded Arete V1 5b ** 93
168 P103 (Javu) Low Start V2 6a * 76
169 P102 (Javu) Rounded Break Start V1 6a 8
170 P104 (Javu) Rounded Wall V0- 4c 61
171 Teenage Mutant Ninja Slippers HVS 4c 19
172 Full Moon E3 5c * 4
  The Tuppy Boulder
174 P107 (Javu) V4 6b 20
175 The Barrel Rockover (Sit Start) V8 ** 23
176 Tuppy V9 6c 1
177 Stray Dog (Gone Defective) V9 6c *  
  The Dark Half
179 Skuzz Bucket E4 6a * 1
180 Hung Like a Baboon E5 6c * 5
181 Never Trust a Monkey E6 6c  
182 Slime Time HVS 5b  
183 P112 (Javu)
-
V3 6a 2
184 P113 (Javu) Al Smith Stand Start V5 6b 20
185 Alan Smith V9 7a * 17
186 Jayne V7 6c 1
187 Panyan E4 6b  
188 Project P: 115 (Javu) none  
189 The Cream Traverse V8 6c ** 31
190 The Newt
-
D 4
191 The Dog And The Crow V3 1
192 PADDY DIRECT ?? * D 1
193 Pedestal * V1 1
194 Wall and flake * V0 1
195 Wall from undercuts * V2 1
196 Alan smith alcove left wall arete * V1 1
197 Alan smith alcove left wall * V0 1
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Matt Smith