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UKClimbing Team

Climbs 190
Rocktype Granite
Altitude 414m a.s.l
Faces all

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a Dartmoor Panorama from Hound Tor © Dan Arkle

Crag features

Hound Tor is a popular place in the Summer for many reasons.

Firstly it was made famous after Sherlock Holmes encounter here with a grim and fearfull beast that can still be seen on nights of a Full Moon. In recent times its popularity stems from its sheep trimmed lawns which are a Picnicing Paradise (great place for the family while you climb), the local car park (with "The Hound of the Basketmeals" mobile cafe) and the views from the summit, all of which bring holidaymakers from far and wide.

After giving up on finding Stegadacea Chimney, the Trad climber will no doubt seek out the excellent Suspension Flake and Aerobic Wall before wondering which monkey put up Hung like a Baboon.

The Boulderer could look to P6 to warm up before visiting the essential Sharks Fin Boulder, 5C Wall, the mean P23 & the jug filled P102. Feeling lucky, the hardcore Boulderer can consider Prowed, Cosmetix, The Barrel Rockover & The Cream Traverse amongst others.

Finally either trad climbers or boulderers can try out Skin Graft just to ensure they have absolutely no skin left at the end of the day.

The Nick White guide includes major routes but for a much more comprehensive view of this Granite Gem (IMHO essential) go to the javu.co.uk website.

Approach notes

From the M5, continue onto the A38 then follow signs to Bovey Tracey.

From the Bovey roundabout (the second, look for the Granite block feature), turn left following signs firstly for Moretonhampstead, then left to Widecombe in the Moor.

Keep on going up the great big hill that eventually brings you out at Hay Tor. Hound Tor is on the other side of the valley to Hay Tor so keep on going round till you can turn right onto the other side of the Valley. If your going down a big hill turn around.

Another mile on, Hound Tor becomes visible (on right), turn right and park up. Two minute walk in.

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Guidebooks

West Country Climbs

West Country Climbs is a major Rockfax guide to one of the UK’s most celebrated, sunny and diverse climbing regions. The book is fashioned in Rockfax’s award-winning layout and design, and copiously illustrated with action photographs of the climbs and cliffs that reflect the quality and variety of climbing experiences to be had on offer in the UK’s most popular holiday destination - the West Country. This is a selected route and buttress guidebook which covers the best 900 routes from the crags listed below.
More info
Note also that Hound tor is quite special in tha way that many of these problems are somewhere in the grey area between bouldering and soloing *ahem* "highball". The grading system works where V grades apply to normal length boulder problems, if there is no Trad grade but a tech grade it probabally doesnt deserve a rope but then again you probabally don't want to fall off the top.
John_Warner - 29/Apr/07
With help from some others, especially freelancer_85, (nearly) all routes and boulder problems have been added. However - many of these routes have no descriptions - or stars, this isn't because the crag is pants, theyre just unknown. So if you climb a route make sure you vote on it, and if you have a sensible description that differs from the Javu one feel free to add it. Cheers
John_Warner - 29/Apr/07
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
1 Hound Tor summit
-
summit 32
  The Perched Block Area
3 Perched Block Chimney M 80
4 Lichenthrope E4 6b  
5 Hob Hound Easy VD 15
6 Toltec Twostep E6 6c ** 31
7 Toltec Twostep Direct E5 6c 3
8 Suspension Flake VS 4c *** 1297
9 The Savile Feeling E5 6b * 4
10 Cantilever Direct HS 4b 81
11 Cantilever Crack VS 4c 126
12 Last Flinger E1 5c 68
13 Janelle HS 4b * 23
14 P5 (Javu) Perched Block Arete V3 6a 43
15 P6 (Javu) Perched Block Traverse V2 5c ** 172
16 P6 (Javu) Perched Block Traverse Sit Start V3 6a 32
17 Wall on Slopers (Boulder Britain - Route 6) V1 5a 125
18 Wall on Slopers Sit Start f6B 84
19 Groove (Boulder Britain Route 5) f4 59
20 P7 (Javu) Layback Crack VB 3c 230
21 P8 (Javu) Perched Block Wall VB 4c 215
22 Easy Wall (Boulder Britain - Route 2) f4 96
23 Arete (Boulder Britain - Route 1) f4 66
24 P12 (Javu) VB 4c 26
25 P13 (Javu)
-
V0- 4a 25
26 Fogou VS 4c * 114
27 P15 (Javu) V0 5c 6
28 Dead Dog Rib E2 5b 31
29 Kisvaen Corner E3 6a 11
30 The Hobbit E5 6b  
31 Sheep May Safely Graze S 4a 208
32 Skin Graft Too VB 4a 3
33 P19 (Javu) V0+ 4c 10
34 Hobhound E3 5b 48
35 Hobble E5 6c  
36 Fougou VS 4c * 48
37 Perched Block Arete V2 33
38 Flake (Boulder Britain - Route 4) V0 9
39 Wall (Boulder Britain - Route 3) VB 12
40 Wall far right (Boulder Britain 3.5) * V0+ 12
41 Twix * V2 2
  Short Wall South of Perched Block
43 P9 (Javu) Mid Wall Crack VB 4c 141
44 P10 (Javu) V4 6b 47
45 P11 (Javu) Low Traverse V4 6b 9
46 P28 (Javu) Back Wall V1 5a * 18
47 Blossom f6B+ ** 2
  Short Arete Block
49 P21 (Javu) V4 6b 6
50 Nose (Boulder Britain - Route 8) f6A+ 7
51 Nose Sit Start (Boulder Britain - Route 8) f6B 2
52 Traverse (Boulder Britain - Route 10) f6B  
53 P 22 (Javu) VB 4c 41
54 P23 (Javu) Short Left Arete V4 6b *** 55
55 P24(Javu) Short L Arête Sit Start V4 6b ** 19
56 P25 (Javu) V4 6b 11
57 P26 (Javu) V0 5a 37
58 P27 (Javu) V5 6a/b 7
  Pedestal
60 Pedestal V1 4
61 Wall and flake V0 2
62 Wall from undercuts V2 1
63 Wall * V3 13
64 Pedestal wall traverse * V2 10
  Sharks Fin Area
66 P29 (Javu) L Hand Shark Line V0- 5a 341
67 P30 (Javu) V3 6a * 202
68 Wish V5 6b 86
69 The Wish (Low Start) V6 6c 13
70 Shark's Fin V1 5c *** 684
Climb name Grade
71 Sharks Fin Double Dyno V1 5b *** 87
72 Wish-ish ! V2 5b * 32
73 P34 (javu) High Traverse V7 7
74 P35 (Javu) V6 6b/c 1
75 Mako V11 3
76 The Shark Fin Girdle V0 4c 31
77 P36 (Javu) V0 5c 32
78 P37 (Javu) V1 5c 21
79 P38 (Javu) VB 3c 6
80 Barnaby's Crack V2 6a 9
81 P40 (Javu) Slanting Flake Crack V2 6a ** 11
82 Problem: 42 (Javu) V3 6a ** 10
83 Ozzie's Wall HS 4b ** 35
84 Bicton! V5 6b *** 4
  Top Hat Area
86 Problem: 44 (Javu)
-
V0- 4a * 60
87 Top Hat M 67
88 P45 (Javu) V0- 4a 94
89 P46 (Javu) V0 5a 86
90 P47 (Javu) V0- 4b 88
91 P48 (Javu) V0- 4c 90
92 P49 (Javu) L Wall Arete V0 5a 61
93 P49b (Javu) V2 5b 22
94 P50 (Javu) Diagonal Crack VB 3c ** 141
95 P51 (Javu) Arête L of Diagonal Crack VB 3c 81
96 P52 (Javu) V2 5c 19
97 Project P: 53 (Javu) none  
98 P54 (Javu) V3 6a 9
  Aerobic Wall
100 Aerobic Wall E2 5c * 511
101 P56 (Javu) R Wall E2 6a 12
102 Limbo Dancer E4 5c ** 69
103 P58 (Javu) E4 6a 3
104 P59 (Javu) E3 5b 3
105 Aerobic Traverse V2 5c ** 217
  Skin Graft Boulder
107 Skin Graft V2 5c * 161
108 Cosmetix V5 6b * 72
  5c Wall Area
110 P62 (Javu) Left Arete VB 4c 106
111 P63 (Javu) SS L Arete V4 6b 106
112 P64 (Javu) V0 5a 110
113 P65 (Javu) Prow V3 6a ** 152
114 Left edge 5c Wall
-
VB 4b 13
115 5c Wall V1 5b ** 356
116 P67 (Javu) Undercut Start V4 6b 93
117 Filet Mignon VB 4a * 12
118 Chav-Wagon V1 5b * 19
119 The Horn V1 5c ** 184
120 Little Prow Traverse V5 6b/c * 18
121 P64 (Javu) sit start V3 26
  Anaerobic Wall
123 P69 (Javu) Left Wall V2 5a 15
124 Anaerobic Crack E1 5c ** 171
125 Anaerobic Arete E2 6a 50
126 P72 (Javu) V2 5b 7
127 P73 (Javu) V2 5b 6
  Top of the Tor
129 Cut Off E5 6a 3
130 P74 (Javu) V1 5c 4
131 Top Prow V3 6a ** 12
132 William Crossing V5 6b 1
133 P77 (Javu) Rounded Traverse V2 6a 3
134 Wall and Arete E2 6a 1
  The Little Prow Area
136 Raw Onion Boyz E2 6a * 6
137 Prowler VS 5a 219
138 Little Prow (boulder problem) V2 5c ** 219
139 Little Prow E1 5c * 158
140 Prowed V5 6b ** 93
Climb name Grade
141 P81 (Javu) Prowed Dyno V7 6b 6
142 P82 (Javu)
-
V0 5b 53
143 P84 (Javu) V6 6c 8
144 Scorn E4 6a * 15
145 P87 (Javu)
-
V0 5b 11
146 Not so Prowed V2 ** 1
  The Pulpit Block
148 Hydraulic Arete HVS 5b * 303
149 Stegadacea Chimney D 56
150 Stegadacea Chimney (variation) S 4a 11
151 Right Chimney VD 50
152 Avarice E3 5c * 2
153 Hydraulic Wall HVS 5a ** 15
154 The Vice VD ** 508
155 Pulpit HVD * 723
156 Devonleigh HVD ** 607
157 Paddy M ** 725
158 Paddy Direct D 16
159 Paddy Variation M 24
160 P91 (Javu) / One Move Wonder HS 5a * 282
  Liars Dice Wall
162 No Dice MVS 4c 11
163 Liars Dice S * 1118
164 P93 (Javu) HVS 4c 103
165 Liar's Arete VD 103
166 P94 (Javu) HS 4b 73
167 P95 (Javu) V1 5c * 69
168 P96 (Javu)
-
V5 6b 12
  The Shady Side of the Avenue
170 Downward Bound E2 5c * 40
171 Rob's Crack V2 5b 14
172 Rob's Bum Crack V2 5c 7
173 P100 (Javu) aka Overhanging Jugs V0- 4c *** 70
174 P100b (Javu) Jugs sit start V7 * 8
175 P101 (Javu) OH Jugs Traverse in fm R V0+ 4c 10
176 It Goes at About Vdiff VD 73
177 The Real V Diff VD 12
178 Slab to right of crack * VD 1
179 Social Distancing * V2 5b * 1
  Full Moon Sector
181 P102 (Javu) Rounded Arete V1 5b ** 100
182 P103 (Javu) Low Start V2 6a * 96
183 P102 (Javu) Rounded Break Start V1 6a 15
184 P104 (Javu) Rounded Wall V0- 4c 75
185 Teenage Mutant Ninja Slippers HVS 4c 20
186 Full Moon E3 5c * 4
187 Werewolf E5 6b 1
  The Tuppy Boulder
189 P107 (Javu) V4 6b 23
190 The Barrel Rockover (Sit Start) V8 ** 31
191 Tuppy V9 6c 2
192 Stray Dog (Gone Defective) V9 6c * 1
  The Dark Half
194 Skuzz Bucket E4 6a * 1
195 Hung Like a Baboon E5 6c * 5
196 Never Trust a Monkey E6 6c  
197 Slime Time HVS 5b 3
198 P112 (Javu)
-
V3 6a 2
199 Alan smith alcove left wall arete V1 2
200 Alan smith alcove left wall V0 3
201 P113 (Javu) Al Smith Stand Start V5 6b 26
202 Alan Smith V9 7a * 19
203 Jayne V7 6c 1
204 Panyan E4 6b  
205 Project P: 115 (Javu) none  
206 The Cream Traverse V8 6c ** 35
207 The Newt
-
D 4
208 The Dog And The Crow V3 1
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

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