UKC

Climbs 183
Rocktype Granite
Altitude 380m a.s.l
Faces SW

a Dartmoor Panorama from Hound Tor © Dan Arkle

Crag features

Hound Tor is a popular place in the Summer for many reasons.

Firstly it was made famous after Sherlock Holmes encounter here with a grim and fearfull beast that can still be seen on nights of a Full Moon. In recent times its popularity stems from its sheep trimmed lawns which are a Picnicing Paradise (great place for the family while you climb), the local car park (with "The Hound of the Basketmeals" mobile cafe) and the views from the summit, all of which bring holidaymakers from far and wide.

After giving up on finding Stegadacea Chimney, the Trad climber will no doubt seek out the excellent Suspension Flake and Aerobic Wall before wondering which monkey put up Hung like a Baboon.

The Boulderer could look to P6 to warm up before visiting the essential Sharks Fin Boulder, 5C Wall, the mean P23 & the jug filled P102. Feeling lucky, the hardcore Boulderer can consider Prowed, Cosmetix, The Barrel Rockover & The Cream Traverse amongst others.

Finally either trad climbers or boulderers can try out Skin Graft just to ensure they have absolutely no skin left at the end of the day.

The Nick White guide includes major routes but for a much more comprehensive view of this Granite Gem (IMHO essential) go to the javu.co.uk website.

Approach notes

From the M5, continue onto the A38 then follow signs to Bovey Tracey.

From the Bovey roundabout (the second, look for the Granite block feature), turn left following signs firstly for Moretonhampstead, then left to Widecombe in the Moor.

Keep on going up the great big hill that eventually brings you out at Hay Tor. Hound Tor is on the other side of the valley to Hay Tor so keep on going round till you can turn right onto the other side of the Valley. If your going down a big hill turn around.

Another mile on, Hound Tor becomes visible (on right), turn right and park up. Two minute walk in.

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Guidebooks

West Country Climbs

West Country Climbs is a major Rockfax guide to one of the UK’s most celebrated, sunny and diverse climbing regions. The book is fashioned in Rockfax’s award-winning layout and design, and copiously illustrated with action photographs of the climbs and cliffs that reflect the quality and variety of climbing experiences to be had on offer in the UK’s most popular holiday destination - the West Country. This is a selected route and buttress guidebook which covers the best 900 routes from the crags listed below.
More info
Note also that Hound tor is quite special in tha way that many of these problems are somewhere in the grey area between bouldering and soloing *ahem* "highball". The grading system works where V grades apply to normal length boulder problems, if there is no Trad grade but a tech grade it probabally doesnt deserve a rope but then again you probabally don't want to fall off the top.
John_Warner - 29/Apr/07
With help from some others, especially freelancer_85, (nearly) all routes and boulder problems have been added. However - many of these routes have no descriptions - or stars, this isn't because the crag is pants, theyre just unknown. So if you climb a route make sure you vote on it, and if you have a sensible description that differs from the Javu one feel free to add it. Cheers
John_Warner - 29/Apr/07
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  The Perched Block Area
2 Perched Block Chimney M 67
3 Lichenthrope E4 6b  
4 Hob Hound Easy VD 14
5 Toltec Twostep E6 6c ** 30
6 Toltec Twostep Direct E5 6c 3
7 Suspension Flake VS 4c *** 1170
8 The Savile Feeling E5 6b * 4
9 Cantilever Direct HS 4b 73
10 Cantilever Crack VS 4c 114
11 Last Flinger E1 5c 60
12 Janelle HS 4b * 20
13 P5 (Javu) Perched Block Arete V3 6a 40
14 P6 (Javu) Perched Block Traverse V2 5c ** 150
15 P6 (Javu) Perched Block Traverse Sit Start V3 6a 24
16 Wall on Slopers (Boulder Britain - Route 6) V1 5a 114
17 Wall on Slopers Sit Start f6B 62
18 Groove (Boulder Britain Route 5) f4 49
19 P7 (Javu) Layback Crack VB 3c 215
20 P8 (Javu) Perched Block Wall VB 4c 196
21 Easy Wall (Boulder Britain - Route 2) f4 75
22 Arete (Boulder Britain - Route 1) f4 56
23 P12 (Javu) VB 4c 25
24 P13 (Javu)
-
V0- 4a 24
25 Fogou VS 4c * 90
26 P15 (Javu) V0 5c 6
27 Dead Dog Rib E2 5b 29
28 Kisvaen Corner E3 6a 11
29 The Hobbit E5 6b  
30 Sheep May Safely Graze S 4a 168
31 Skin Graft Too VB 4a 2
32 P19 (Javu) V0+ 4c 9
33 Hobhound E3 5b 47
34 Hobble E5 6c  
35 Fougou VS 4c * 30
36 Perched Block Arete V2 18
37 Flake (Boulder Britain - Route 4) V0 1
38 Wall (Boulder Britain - Route 3) VB 3
  Short Wall South of Perched Block
40 P9 (Javu) Mid Wall Crack VB 4c 127
41 P10 (Javu) V4 6b 29
42 P11 (Javu) Low Traverse V4 6b 9
43 P28 (Javu) Back Wall V1 5a * 17
44 Blossom f6B+ ** 2
  Short Arete Block
46 P21 (Javu) V4 6b 4
47 Nose (Boulder Britain - Route 8) f6A+ 6
48 Nose Sit Start (Boulder Britain - Route 8) f6B 2
49 Traverse (Boulder Britain - Route 10) f6B  
50 P 22 (Javu) VB 4c 39
51 P23 (Javu) Short Left Arete V4 6b *** 48
52 P24(Javu) Short L Arête Sit Start V4 6b ** 17
53 P25 (Javu) V4 6b 11
54 P26 (Javu) V0 5a 35
55 P27 (Javu) V5 6a/b 6
  Pedestal
57 Pedestal V1 1
58 Wall and flake V0 1
59 Wall from undercuts V2 1
  Sharks Fin Area
61 P29 (Javu) L Hand Shark Line V0- 5a 311
62 P30 (Javu) V3 6a * 183
63 Wish V5 6b 73
64 The Wish (Low Start) V6 6c 9
65 Shark's Fin V1 5c *** 613
66 Sharks Fin Double Dyno V1 5b *** 81
67 Wish-ish ! V2 5b * 20
Climb name Grade
68 P34 (javu) High Traverse V7 6
69 P35 (Javu) V6 6b/c 1
70 Mako V11 3
71 The Shark Fin Girdle V0 4c 22
72 P36 (Javu) V0 5c 31
73 P37 (Javu) V1 5c 20
74 P38 (Javu) VB 3c 3
75 Barnaby's Crack V2 6a 8
76 P40 (Javu) Slanting Flake Crack V2 6a ** 10
77 Problem: 42 (Javu) V3 6a ** 10
78 Ozzie's Wall HS 4b ** 34
79 Bicton! V5 6b *** 4
  Top Hat Area
81 Problem: 44 (Javu)
-
V0- 4a * 58
82 Top Hat M 61
83 P45 (Javu) V0- 4a 89
84 P46 (Javu) V0 5a 80
85 P47 (Javu) V0- 4b 83
86 P48 (Javu) V0- 4c 84
87 P49 (Javu) L Wall Arete V0 5a 58
88 P49b (Javu) V2 5b 14
89 P50 (Javu) Diagonal Crack VB 3c ** 130
90 P51 (Javu) Arête L of Diagonal Crack VB 3c 75
91 P52 (Javu) V2 5c 18
92 Project P: 53 (Javu) none  
93 P54 (Javu) V3 6a 9
  Aerobic Wall
95 Aerobic Wall E2 5c * 471
96 P56 (Javu) R Wall E2 6a 11
97 Limbo Dancer E4 5c ** 60
98 P58 (Javu) E4 6a 3
99 P59 (Javu) E3 5b 3
100 Aerobic Traverse V2 5c ** 174
  Skin Graft Boulder
102 Skin Graft V2 5c * 141
103 Cosmetix V5 6b * 68
  5c Wall Area
105 P62 (Javu) Left Arete VB 4c 92
106 P63 (Javu) SS L Arete V4 6b 84
107 P64 (Javu) V0 5a 101
108 P65 (Javu) Prow V3 6a ** 127
109 Left edge 5c Wall
-
VB 4b 9
110 5c Wall V1 5b ** 309
111 P67 (Javu) Undercut Start V4 6b 78
112 Filet Mignon VB 4a * 11
113 Chav-Wagon V1 5b * 18
114 The Horn V1 5c ** 170
115 Little Prow Traverse V5 6b/c * 17
116 P64 (Javu) sit start V3 13
  Anaerobic Wall
118 P69 (Javu) Left Wall V2 5a 15
119 Anaerobic Crack E1 5c ** 140
120 Anaerobic Arete E2 6a 49
121 P72 (Javu) V2 5b 7
122 P73 (Javu) V2 5b 6
  Top of the Tor
124 Cut Off E5 6a 3
125 P74 (Javu) V1 5c 4
126 Top Prow V3 6a ** 12
127 William Crossing V5 6b 1
128 P77 (Javu) Rounded Traverse V2 6a 3
129 Wall and Arete E2 6a 1
  The Little Prow Area
131 Raw Onion Boyz E2 6a * 6
132 Prowler VS 5a 201
133 Little Prow (boulder problem) V2 5c ** 199
134 Little Prow E1 5c * 138
Climb name Grade
135 Prowed V5 6b ** 85
136 P81 (Javu) Prowed Dyno V7 6b 6
137 P82 (Javu)
-
V0 5b 52
138 P84 (Javu) V6 6c 8
139 Scorn E4 6a * 15
140 P87 (Javu)
-
V0 5b 8
141 Not so Prowed V2 ** 1
  The Pulpit Block
143 Hydraulic Arete HVS 5b * 267
144 Stegadacea Chimney D 49
145 Stegadacea Chimney (variation) S 4a 8
146 Right Chimney VD 46
147 Avarice E3 5c *  
148 Hydraulic Wall HVS 5a ** 11
149 The Vice VD ** 452
150 Pulpit HVD * 656
151 Devonleigh HVD ** 527
152 Paddy M ** 646
153 Paddy Direct D 1
154 Paddy Variation M 19
155 P91 (Javu) / One Move Wonder HS 5a * 213
  Liars Dice Wall
157 No Dice MVS 4c 7
158 Liars Dice S * 1014
159 P93 (Javu) HVS 4c 78
160 Liar's Arete VD 86
161 P94 (Javu) HS 4b 70
162 P95 (Javu) V1 5c * 58
163 P96 (Javu)
-
V5 6b 12
  The Shady Side of the Avenue
165 Downward Bound E2 5c * 35
166 Rob's Crack V2 5b 12
167 Rob's Bum Crack V2 5c 7
168 P100 (Javu) aka Overhanging Jugs V0- 4c *** 65
169 P100b (Javu) Jugs sit start V7 * 7
170 P101 (Javu) OH Jugs Traverse in fm R V0+ 4c 9
171 It Goes at About Vdiff VD 56
172 The Real V Diff VD 8
  Full Moon Sector
174 P102 (Javu) Rounded Arete V1 5b ** 94
175 P103 (Javu) Low Start V2 6a * 83
176 P102 (Javu) Rounded Break Start V1 6a 11
177 P104 (Javu) Rounded Wall V0- 4c 66
178 Teenage Mutant Ninja Slippers HVS 4c 20
179 Full Moon E3 5c * 4
180 Werewolf E5 6b 1
  The Tuppy Boulder
182 P107 (Javu) V4 6b 20
183 The Barrel Rockover (Sit Start) V8 ** 25
184 Tuppy V9 6c 2
185 Stray Dog (Gone Defective) V9 6c *  
  The Dark Half
187 Skuzz Bucket E4 6a * 1
188 Hung Like a Baboon E5 6c * 5
189 Never Trust a Monkey E6 6c  
190 Slime Time HVS 5b  
191 P112 (Javu)
-
V3 6a 2
192 Alan smith alcove left wall arete V1 1
193 Alan smith alcove left wall V0 1
194 P113 (Javu) Al Smith Stand Start V5 6b 22
195 Alan Smith V9 7a * 17
196 Jayne V7 6c 1
197 Panyan E4 6b  
198 Project P: 115 (Javu) none  
199 The Cream Traverse V8 6c ** 32
200 The Newt
-
D 4
201 The Dog And The Crow V3 1

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