UKC

Climbs 173
Rocktype Granite
Altitude 380m a.s.l
Faces SW

a Dartmoor Panorama from Hound Tor © Dan Arkle

Crag features

Hound Tor is a popular place in the Summer for many reasons.

Firstly it was made famous after Sherlock Holmes encounter here with a grim and fearfull beast that can still be seen on nights of a Full Moon. In recent times its popularity stems from its sheep trimmed lawns which are a Picnicing Paradise (great place for the family while you climb), the local car park (with "The Hound of the Basketmeals" mobile cafe) and the views from the summit, all of which bring holidaymakers from far and wide.

After giving up on finding Stegadacea Chimney, the Trad climber will no doubt seek out the excellent Suspension Flake and Aerobic Wall before wondering which monkey put up Hung like a Baboon.

The Boulderer could look to P6 to warm up before visiting the essential Sharks Fin Boulder, 5C Wall, the mean P23 & the jug filled P102. Feeling lucky, the hardcore Boulderer can consider Prowed, Cosmetix, The Barrel Rockover & The Cream Traverse amongst others.

Finally either trad climbers or boulderers can try out Skin Graft just to ensure they have absolutely no skin left at the end of the day.

The Nick White guide includes major routes but for a much more comprehensive view of this Granite Gem (IMHO essential) go to the javu.co.uk website.

Approach notes

From the M5, continue onto the A38 then follow signs to Bovey Tracey.

From the Bovey roundabout (the second, look for the Granite block feature), turn left following signs firstly for Moretonhampstead, then left to Widecombe in the Moor.

Keep on going up the great big hill that eventually brings you out at Hay Tor. Hound Tor is on the other side of the valley to Hay Tor so keep on going round till you can turn right onto the other side of the Valley. If your going down a big hill turn around.

Another mile on, Hound Tor becomes visible (on right), turn right and park up. Two minute walk in.

Rockfax App

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Guidebooks

West Country Climbs

West Country Climbs is a major Rockfax guide to one of the UK’s most celebrated, sunny and diverse climbing regions. The book is fashioned in Rockfax’s award-winning layout and design, and copiously illustrated with action photographs of the climbs and cliffs that reflect the quality and variety of climbing experiences to be had on offer in the UK’s most popular holiday destination - the West Country. This is a selected route and buttress guidebook which covers the best 900 routes from the crags listed below.
More info
Note also that Hound tor is quite special in tha way that many of these problems are somewhere in the grey area between bouldering and soloing *ahem* "highball". The grading system works where V grades apply to normal length boulder problems, if there is no Trad grade but a tech grade it probabally doesnt deserve a rope but then again you probabally don't want to fall off the top.
John_Warner - 29/Apr/07
With help from some others, especially freelancer_85, (nearly) all routes and boulder problems have been added. However - many of these routes have no descriptions - or stars, this isn't because the crag is pants, theyre just unknown. So if you climb a route make sure you vote on it, and if you have a sensible description that differs from the Javu one feel free to add it. Cheers
John_Warner - 29/Apr/07
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  The Perched Block Area
2 Perched Block Chimney M 55
3 Lichenthrope E4 6b  
4 Hob Hound Easy VD 12
5 Toltec Twostep E6 6c ** 29
6 Toltec Twostep Direct E5 6c 2
7 Suspension Flake VS 4c *** 1152
8 The Savile Feeling E5 6b * 4
9 Cantilever Direct HS 4b 66
10 Cantilever Crack VS 4c 104
11 Last Flinger E1 5c 52
12 Janelle HS 4b * 18
13 P5 (Javu) Perched Block Arete V3 6a 39
14 P6 (Javu) Perched Block Traverse V2 5c ** 130
15 P6 (Javu) Perched Block Traverse Sit Start V3 6a 19
16 Wall on Slopers (Boulder Britain - Route 6) V1 5a 94
17 Wall on Slopers Sit Start f6B 39
18 Groove f4 42
19 P7 (Javu) Layback Crack VB 3c 187
20 P8 (Javu) Perched Block Wall VB 4c 166
21 Easy Wall (Boulder Britain - Route 2) f4 48
22 Arete (Boulder Britain - Route 1) f4 43
23 P12 (Javu) VB 4c 22
24 P13 (Javu)
-
V0- 4a 21
25 Fogou VS 4c * 73
26 P15 (Javu) V0 5c 5
27 Dead Dog Rib E2 5b 27
28 Kisvaen Corner E3 6a 7
29 The Hobbit E5 6b  
30 Sheep May Safely Graze S 4a 148
31 Skin Graft Too VB 4a 2
32 P19 (Javu) V0+ 4c 8
33 Hobhound E3 5b 46
34 Hobble E5 6c  
35 Fougou * VS 4c * 5
36 Perched Block Arete * V2 5c 2
  Short Wall South of Perched Block
38 P9 (Javu) Mid Wall Crack VB 4c 110
39 P10 (Javu) V4 6b 19
40 P11 (Javu) Low Traverse V4 6b 9
41 P28 (Javu) Back Wall V1 5a * 15
42 Blossom * f6B+ ** 2
  Short Arete Block
44 P21 (Javu) V4 6b 3
45 Nose (Boulder Britain - Route 8) f6A+ 3
46 Nose Sit Start (Boulder Britain - Route 8) f6B 2
47 Traverse (Boulder Britain - Route 10) f6B  
48 P 22 (Javu) VB 4c 37
49 P23 (Javu) Short Left Arete V4 6b *** 44
50 P24(Javu) Short L Arête Sit Start V4 6b ** 17
51 P25 (Javu) V4 6b 10
52 P26 (Javu) V0 5a 30
53 P27 (Javu) V5 6a/b 6
  Sharks Fin Area
55 P29 (Javu) L Hand Shark Line V0- 5a 280
56 P30 (Javu) V3 6a * 158
57 Wish V5 6b 75
58 The Wish (Low Start) V6 6c 8
59 Shark's Fin V1 5c *** 539
60 Sharks Fin Double Dyno V1 5b *** 70
61 Wish-ish ! V2 5b * 14
62 P34 (javu) High Traverse V7 5
63 P35 (Javu) V6 6b/c 1
64 Mako V11 2
Climb name Grade
65 The Shark Fin Girdle V0 4c 14
66 P36 (Javu) V0 5c 31
67 P37 (Javu) V1 5c 19
68 P38 (Javu) VB 3c  
69 Barnaby's Crack V2 6a 8
70 P40 (Javu) Slanting Flake Crack V2 6a ** 10
71 Problem: 42 (Javu) V3 6a ** 10
72 Ozzie's Wall HS 4b ** 31
73 Bicton! V5 6b *** 4
  Top Hat Area
75 Problem: 44 (Javu)
-
V0- 4a * 55
76 Top Hat M 55
77 P45 (Javu) V0- 4a 78
78 P46 (Javu) V0 5a 69
79 P47 (Javu) V0- 4b 78
80 P48 (Javu) V0- 4c 72
81 P49 (Javu) L Wall Arete V0 5a 53
82 P49b (Javu) V2 5b 10
83 P50 (Javu) Diagonal Crack VB 3c ** 115
84 P51 (Javu) Arête L of Diagonal Crack VB 3c 67
85 P52 (Javu) V2 5c 17
86 Project P: 53 (Javu) none  
87 P54 (Javu) V3 6a 9
  Aerobic Wall
89 Aerobic Wall E2 5c * 438
90 P56 (Javu) R Wall E2 6a 9
91 Limbo Dancer E4 5c ** 54
92 P58 (Javu) E4 6a 2
93 P59 (Javu) E3 5b 3
94 Aerobic Traverse V2 5c ** 137
  Skin Graft Boulder
96 Skin Graft V2 5c * 127
97 Cosmetix V5 6b * 64
  5c Wall Area
99 P62 (Javu) Left Arete VB 4c 78
100 P63 (Javu) SS L Arete V4 6b 67
101 P64 (Javu) V0 5a 91
102 P65 (Javu) Prow V3 6a ** 105
103 Left edge 5c Wall
-
VB 4b 7
104 5c Wall V1 5b ** 264
105 P67 (Javu) Undercut Start V4 6b 59
106 Filet Mignon VB 4a * 11
107 Chav-Wagon V1 5b * 14
108 The Horn V1 5c ** 158
109 Little Prow Traverse V5 6b/c * 17
110 P64 (Javu) sit start * V3 6a 4
  Anaerobic Wall
112 P69 (Javu) Left Wall V2 5a 14
113 Anaerobic Crack E1 5c ** 121
114 Anaerobic Arete E2 6a 49
115 P72 (Javu) V2 5b 7
116 P73 (Javu) V2 5b 5
  Top of the Tor
118 Cut Off E5 6a 3
119 P74 (Javu) V1 5c 4
120 Top Prow V3 6a ** 12
121 William Crossing V5 6b 1
122 P77 (Javu) Rounded Traverse V2 6a 3
123 Wall and Arete E2 6a 1
  The Little Prow Area
125 Raw Onion Boyz E2 6a * 6
126 Prowler VS 5a 181
127 Little Prow (boulder problem) V2 5c ** 176
128 Little Prow E1 5c * 128
Climb name Grade
129 Prowed V5 6b ** 78
130 P81 (Javu) Prowed Dyno V7 6b 5
131 P82 (Javu)
-
V0 5b 48
132 P84 (Javu) V6 6c 7
133 Scorn E4 6a * 15
134 P87 (Javu)
-
V0 5b 8
  The Pulpit Block
136 Hydraulic Arete HVS 5b * 240
137 Stegadacea Chimney D 43
138 Stegadacea Chimney (variation) S 4a 6
139 Right Chimney VD 44
140 Avarice E3 5c *  
141 Hydraulic Wall HVS 5a ** 10
142 The Vice VD ** 415
143 Pulpit HVD * 598
144 Devonleigh HVD ** 448
145 Paddy M ** 573
146 Paddy Variation M 12
147 P91 (Javu) / One Move Wonder HS 5a * 158
  Liars Dice Wall
149 No Dice MVS 4c 5
150 Liars Dice S * 938
151 P93 (Javu) HVS 4c 68
152 Liar's Arete VD 70
153 P94 (Javu) HS 4b 66
154 P95 (Javu) V1 5c * 43
155 P96 (Javu)
-
V5 6b 11
  The Shady Side of the Avenue
157 Downward Bound E2 5c * 30
158 Rob's Crack V2 5b 11
159 Rob's Bum Crack V2 5c 6
160 P100 (Javu) aka Overhanging Jugs V0- 4c *** 62
161 P100b (Javu) Jugs sit start V7 * 7
162 P101 (Javu) OH Jugs Traverse in fm R V0+ 4c 8
163 It Goes at About Vdiff VD 29
164 The Real V Diff * VD 3
  Full Moon Sector
166 P102 (Javu) Rounded Arete V1 5b ** 88
167 P103 (Javu) Low Start V2 6a * 69
168 P102 (Javu) Rounded Break Start V1 6a 7
169 P104 (Javu) Rounded Wall V0- 4c 56
170 Teenage Mutant Ninja Slippers HVS 4c 19
171 Full Moon E3 5c * 4
  The Tuppy Boulder
173 P107 (Javu) V4 6b 18
174 The Barrel Rockover (Sit Start) V8 ** 23
175 Tuppy V9 6c 1
176 Stray Dog (Gone Defective) V9 6c *  
  The Dark Half
178 Skuzz Bucket E4 6a * 1
179 Hung Like a Baboon E5 6c * 5
180 Never Trust a Monkey E6 6c  
181 Slime Time HVS 5b  
182 P112 (Javu)
-
V3 6a 2
183 P113 (Javu) Al Smith Stand Start V5 6b 20
184 Alan Smith V9 7a * 16
185 Jayne V7 6c 1
186 Panyan E4 6b  
187 Project P: 115 (Javu) none  
188 The Cream Traverse V8 6c ** 31
189 The Newt
-
D 4
190 The Dog And The Crow * V3 1
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

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