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UKClimbing Team

Climbs 73
Rocktype Granite

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Roche Rock, Cornwall. © Dissenter

Crag features

Unique rock - not granite but schorl, composed of quartz and tourmaline, and possessing the most extraordinary friction.

A good selection of routes across the mid-grades from diffs up to a desperate E4 6b roof crack.

Some of the belays need to be taken back to the ruin on top of the rock.

Climbing on the monastery walls is strictly forbidden, but the signs indicating a complete climbing ban on the approach path are old, out of date and climbing is very much allowed.

Approach notes

Locals say adders are a big problem here but I didn't see any in two full days last week (Aug 2012)

Sports/Social club car park is huge and was empty for the two days I used it. Checked with a local/neighbour who said it was absolutely no problem to park there.

Access was from the back of the car park, past the Sports/social club building, go right, through the gate and then follow the hedgerow around to the left. Cut through the obvious opening and head towards the rock. Fight through the ferns on the relatively obvious but muddy paths.

In bad weather at least one side of the rock seemed to remain a little sheltered.

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West Country Climbs

West Country Climbs is a major Rockfax guide to one of the UK’s most celebrated, sunny and diverse climbing regions. The book is fashioned in Rockfax’s award-winning layout and design, and copiously illustrated with action photographs of the climbs and cliffs that reflect the quality and variety of climbing experiences to be had on offer in the UK’s most popular holiday destination - the West Country. This is a selected route and buttress guidebook which covers the best 900 routes from the crags listed below.
More info
Lots of glass around the crag and on parts of beginner slab. tried to clean up the most of it this week however I doubt it will stay that way for long.
K_Maywood - 12/Jun/15
Birds nesting on porky's, maybe best avoid for awhile (jun/15)
tp45597 - 31/May/15
Spent an evening there in May 2015. Superb location with the amazing monastery on top, one of the coolest little outcrops I've ever been to. Seems our opinion was shared by the 50+ local kids for whom it forms a meeting, drinking and flirting spot of choice. Being all aged 15 or less they weren't particularly troublesome however.
67hours - 25/May/15
The signs has not been relevant since 2005 after CRoW Act.
NathanTurnock29 - 20/Mar/14
Climbed on Thursday (Aug 22nd) and still trying to get my head round this place, it's immense. The climbings good, but the setting is even more breathtaking. Didn't spend nearly as long as I wanted there (visited with a group from work on an 'adventure training' package) but loved every minute while I was there. We parked in the pub car park (with prior arrangement) and it was only a 5 minute walk in. We were also one of only 2 groups there, and the other group was only 2 kids and their dad, so pretty quiet too.
NobbyClark - 24/Aug/13
Agree with Argyle-dude's comments, except that the layby wasn't described properly in the Rockfax guide and people just park on the crag side of the parking restriction, close against the wall by the stile. Parking is always tolerate here and is quite safe.
Tom Last - 30/Jul/12
Layby listed in guide book is no longer there and locals on the newish housing estate are getting fed up with climbers parking there. The sports/social club (straight on at the roundabout out of roche) seem happy for climbers to park there and have a large car park. However, I dont recomend the path from the car park to the crag, cut across the cricket field back to the road to where the layby was and take that footpath!
argyle_dude - 29/Jul/12
Just solo all the climbs up to severe, Then lead then rest :D God Forbid Best done With an onsight attempt.. gear good ;)
bunn.aroundthebloc - 02/Dec/08
Went there over Easter - according to a big sign there, climbing on the rock is now banned.. Anyone know about this?
RichG1 - 26/Mar/08
Bizarre pinnacles and a main crag with a ruined hermitage on the top. Some good lower-grade routes, a few extremes and limited bouldering in the bracken. Climbing in the vicinity of the ruin is not allowed. Close to village and popular with local youths.
Gus Horsley - 07/Mar/06
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Main Area
2 God Forbid E4 6b ** 21
3 Hook and Eye
VS 4c ** 34
4 East Chimney (Right Hand Variation)
HS 4b * 87
5 East Chimney
S 4b 135
6 Oxford Climb VD 4a 37
7 Oxford Direct VD * 32
8 Ivy Mantled Tower S 4b 59
9 South East Buttress VD ** 347
10 Smoked Bacon E2 6a ** 10
11 Moping Lord HVS 5a 5
12 Moping Owl VS 4c * 256
13 Porky VS 4c ** 588
14 Lord Falmouth E1 5b * 589
15 Falmouth arete HVS 5a * 6
16 Corner & Staircase D * 674
17 Slab Eliminate HS 4c 9
18 Tregagle's Crack S 4a * 598
19 Reach From Jug V0 1
20 Cerro FitzRoche HVS 5b 3
21 Sparkle Motion E1 5b 3
22 National Diploma in Outdoor Education E3 6b * 10
23 Tregagle's Buttress HS 4b * 369
24 Tregagle's Traverse V3 * 7
25 NVQ in Origami E2 5c 35
26 Tregagle's Rib VS 5a 41
Climb name Grade
27 Easy Chimney D 3c 108
28 Easy Chimney Crack S 4a 30
29 Urban Gorrilla V3  
30 Swink Rib/Singing the Fishing E1 5a * 21
31 Swink Chimney
VS 4c 85
32 Mount Rimmer VS 5a 13
33 Tump Wall
D 3c 22
34 North Buttress
D 3c 66
35 Late Again HS 4b 2
36 Sparrows Edge E1 5c * 2
37 The Lepar VS 4c 9
38 Shorty's Folly Variation Finish
HS 4c * 31
39 Shorty's Folly HVS 4c ** 241
40 Shortys Left Hand HVS 5a 9
41 Cock Roche HS 4b 2
42 Vastus medialis S * 23
  Eastern Outcrops
44 Para Handy E1 5b 3
45 The Vital Spark VS 4b * 18
46 Ferrero Roche HVS 4c 8
47 The Heart of the Matter E1 5b * 4
48 Perfect Weather to Fly E1 5b 9
49 Clay Country VD * 18
50 Bin Down Bindown VD 8
51 Get On John! S 4b 8
52 Gracefully Disappear in a Room VS 4c 7
Climb name Grade
53 Baby, We'll Be Fine VS 4c 9
54 Flutings
VS 4c 7
56 Shave the Cornish V4 6a 3
57 Lip Traverse V1 12
58 Slapper f6A+ * 7
59 Blaze (Slapper super-low start) V3 3
60 Slapper (very low start with no feet!) f? 1
61 Arsonist V6 10
62 The Crack V2 18
63 Right Arete V0 22
64 Flapper f6A 2
65 Reacher f6A+ * 2
66 Will Smith f7A+ * 1
67 The Pickle f6B 1
68 The Minuteman f7A 1
  Beginners Slab
70 Kynsa D 117
71 Nessa S 4a 145
72 Tressa D 176
73 Peswora VS 4b 107
74 Pympes VD 116
75 Hweghves variation
S 4a 58
76 Hweghves D 84

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