Climbs 57
Rocktype Granite
Altitude 1321m a.s.l
Faces S

Crag features

The granite mountains extending eastwards from La Pedriza come to a dramatic conclusion above the village of La Cabrera in the shape of the stunning Pico del la Miel. Routes between 1 and 6 pitches (30 - 200m) long make this crag ideal ideal for classic multi-pitch trad climbing. The rock is superb and the routes are outstanding with Espolon Manolin, Diedro Loquillo, Esteban Altieri and Julito being particularly noteworthy.

Best visited in Spring and Autumn, although can be a good option for a cloudy summer day or a sunny (windless!) winter day.

There are no water sources except for the hotel, so it's advisable to bring water from home.

Interesting video of three 5-star routes in La Cabrera, the mountain range where Pico de La Miel belongs (Espolon Manolin, Metamorfosis, and Alaiz-Altieri combination) https://vimeo.com/88425833

Approach notes

From Madrid take the A1 north towards Burgos and turn off to La Cabrera at junction (salida) 60. From the end of the slipway turn left and pass under the motorway. At the little roundabout, turn right and pull into the cafe/service station (Hotel El Cancho). From Miraflores follow the winding N-610 through Bustarviejo and past Valdemanco and on to La Cabrera. At the roundabout turn left along the main street through the village, pass straight over the first roundabout continue on to the end of the village. At the roundabout at end head straight on and turn into the cafe/service station (Hostel El Cancho).

APPROACH:
There are a handful paths climbing up the steep slope from the car park. Use any of them according to the route you plan to climb.

DESCENT:

Most of the routes top out close to the summit. For those which don't, you'll need to do an easy (some times exposed) scramble to reach it. From the summit, there are descent paths at either side of the cliff. Again, it depends where did we leave our rucksacks. You can either head NORTH EAST to reach a shady gully and descend it (hard scrambling moves), or head WEST walking down slabby rocks to reach a pass and then walk the path south east (slightly longer but easier). Either way will take us to the bottom of the cliff in about 20 minutes.

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Guidebooks

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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
1 Brothers 5c *  
2 Julito/Harakiri 6a *** 1
3 Casera Atomica/Guarra 5c **  
4 Piloto 5c *** 1
5 Lola Flores/Chocolate/Senda 6b **  
6 Esteban Altieri 6a+ ** 1
Climb name Grade
7 Jose Manuel Alaiz 6a+ ** 1
8 Espolón Manolín 5a *** 7
9 Ezequiel 4c 3
10 Esteban Altieri 6a+ *** 3
11 Lola Flores 6b e2 5c ** 1
12 Fisura Chamonix 6b 1
Climb name Grade
13 Chocolate 5c *** 1
14 18 Los Ojos Que Te Ven 6c  
15 Diedro Ticupa 6a+ 1
16 Salamandra 6b 1

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