Climbs 126
Rocktype Dolerite
Altitude 100m a.s.l
Faces S

Surface Tension, Auchinstarry © Fraser

Crag features

Has great character with good protection. Dubious safety work by the council has obliterated some old classic lines but there is plenty left. Some of the rock is sublime.

Safety report for the quarry
http://www.eigconference.org/index2.php?option=com_docman&task=doc_view&gid=25&Itemid=26

Approach notes

Regular train service to Croy which is only 1 Kilometre away to the south.
Some routes start straight from the car park.
For routes overlooking the pool, walk left (east) and through a wire fence to the top of the quarry. Scramble or abseil from stout trees to the water level.

Guidebooks

Rope found here on 24 June, please call chris on 07392 094 787 if lost.
chriskane - 25/Jun/18
LOST ROPE FOUND!!! 24 June, please call chris on 07392 094 787
chriskane - 24/Jun/18
just to point out it's 1.5 miles / 2.4 kms not 1 km from Croy train station https://www.google.co.uk/maps/dir/55.9696505,-4.0510201/55.9554232,-4.0361321/@55.9639324,-4.0505144,15z/data=!4m9!4m8!1m5!3m4!1m2!1d-4.0360615!2d55.956156!3s0x4888689e7c98fce7:0x91aacc1003ac52dc!1m0!3e2
malcolm.harris - 02/Jun/17
Currently a family of bats in a crack on the white slab (part way up red lead)
James90 - 23/Jun/15
Please can people stop top-roping Nijinski (and adjacent routes). It's an amazing line and a great trad testpiece that really deserves better than avoiding it's true lead quality. FWIW with enough RPs and Offsets and the skill to place them, it's closer to E4. Something to save for the future if you can't lead it.
Fiend - 17/Dec/13
Council work has affected the tops of some of the car park area routes, as shown here https://dl.dropbox.com/u/5617456/IMG_0004.JPG This seems to be leading to more dirt and water coming down these lines.
Roberttaylor - 13/Feb/13
'Starry is looking a little woebegone. Other than Red Lead/Mascarade buttress and Trundle slab there's an awful lot of grass and neglect. Couple of public spirited locals needed for gardening.
IanMcC - 14/Jun/12
2 Youtube clips of the view of Auchinstarry Quarry. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=d158fVJl7Ms http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KCjxGOKZemk
Denpov - 14/Aug/10
From the Croy Train Station the bus nunber 349 also passes the quarry. 50 pence fare August 2010. The buses take about 2 minutes.
Denpov - 10/Aug/10
From the Croy Train Station a bus service from 7.43am (no 43) goes past the quarry and is every 15mins during the day, but there may not be an evening service. Get the bus at the bus stop outside the train station Cost 1.25 August 2010. :o)
Denpov - 04/Aug/10
Currently updating the crag and getting all the routes in order. if you have a description of the last 50 or so routes especially it'd be helpful!
JamieSparkes - 27/Nov/08
Auchinstarry is a good venue for middle grade climbers in the Glasgow area. It is a disused dolerite quarry with a wee loch which folk fish and kayak on, with newly- landscaped and imroved grounds. It has excellent routes mainly in the VS- E2 range. Some of the routes have great atmosphere, such as Red Lead (VS 5a) which ascends an improbable looking wall and crack from a semi hanging belay right above the water. Watch out for local savages hurling rubbish and rocks off the top however.
I am the God of Stratheyre - 11/Apr/05
A 15 minute walk from a train station served by fairly regular trains makes this an ideal crag for someone in glasgow without a car. Personally never had any problems with the locals myself but have heard stories.
alrobertson - 18/Apr/04
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Car Park Area
2 Undercut Wall V0+ 5a 4
3 Shield Bug f4 2
4 Crimpy Wall V3 6a 1
5 Easy Flake
-
VB 4a * 12
6 Bruddaz Gonna Work it Out f6C 2
7 Green Onion HVS 5a 103
8 I-spy E2 5c * 137
9 Mr Men VS 4b ** 394
10 Mister, Ye Can Walk Up Roon The Back S 315
11 Mister, You're On Fire Mister VS 5a 28
12 First Footer E1 5c ** 147
13 No Stone Unturned S 5a 41
14 Just stand up E1 6a 11
15 Access Route D *** 622
16 slab left of Scream E2 5c 135
17 Scream S 4b 902
18 Whimper S 79
19 Anarchist VD 434
20 Tar S 342
21 Tardis S 8
22 Three Cheers for Yer Uncle Bob VS 5a 70
23 Knock Back E1 5b ** 306
24 Slinky Lizard HS 4b * 727
25 Cubigoruasry HS 5a 13
26 Cat's Whisker's E2 5b 117
27 Death is the Hunter E5 6b/c *** 27
28 Nijinski is the Hunter E3 5c * 10
29 Nijinski E5 6a *** 157
  Promontory
31 Blade Runner E4 6a ** 54
32 Blade Runner Direct E5 6b * 24
33 Promontory Runner E4 6b  
34 Promontory Direct HVS 5a *** 832
35 Plumline Arete E3 6a 6
36 Plumline Crack HVS 5c * 88
37 Spirogyra VS 4c ** 459
38 Carouselambra E5 6b ** 10
39 In through the Out door E5 6a  
40 Fish rising E2 5b 2
41 Twilight Zone E4 6a *  
42 Tit for Tat E2 5c 4
43 The Surf Shack E5 6b  
  Mascarade Buttress
45 Newcastle Brown
-
E1 5b 2
46 Roll Up
-
VS 4c 3
Climb name Grade
47 Soft Machine
-
E2 5c 1
48 Maypole
-
HVS 4c 7
49 High Dive
-
E3 5c * 22
50 Surface Tension E5 6b *** 25
51 Mascarade E1 5c * 27
52 Whiplash E1 5b 13
53 Red Lead VS 5a *** 475
54 White Slab
-
HS 4b ** 241
55 Demons & Dead Lizards
-
HVS 5a 40
56 Spanking the Rustbucket E3 5c 5
57 Harry Goes West E2 5b 1
58 Hopelessly Treading Water E4 6a 1
  Little Amphitheatre
60 The seven year plan
-
E2 5c * 2
61 Amnesiac Pull HS 11
62 Cracked Arete VS 4c ** 171
63 Cruisers Creek E1 5b 11
64 Orange Flash HVS 5a ** 183
65 Danger! U.S.R HVS 5a * 18
  Main Amphitheatre
67 Caftan HVS 4c 17
68 Bazaar HVS 4c 14
69 Solstice Slot VS 4c 11
70 Ice Edge
-
VS 4c 11
71 Mastalgia VS 4c * 116
72 Higher Beginning
-
VD 18
73 Stir Crazy HVS 5a 16
74 Bouldermouse HVS 5a 8
75 Lion Cub VS 4b * 155
76 Lion HVS 5b ** 221
77 The Return of the King E2 5c *** 97
78 ADNIL (aka Auch!) HVS 5a * 14
79 Sunshine HVS 5a ** 12
80 Kelvin Way DAMAGED
-
E1 5a 5
  Terrace
82 Mac's Wall
-
HVS 5a 7
83 Short Reach
-
E1 5b ** 26
84 Pigeon Hole
-
VS 4c 2
85 Exorcist
-
HVS 5b  
86 Separated Edge
-
HVS 5a 2
87 Christmas Corner
-
HVS 5a 5
88 Glass Direct E1 5a ** 4
89 Glass
-
E1 5c  
90 Dream Machine
-
E4 6a/b *** 9
91 Quick Buck VS 5a * 32
92 Think of Scotland E6 6b **  
Climb name Grade
  Trundle Slab
94 Glasgow No More VS 4c 21
95 The Javelin E2 6a * 18
96 A Stroll with Marigold E1 5b * 5
97 Replicant
-
E3 5c 9
98 Sunday Slab VD 9
99 Trundle VS 4c ** 758
100 Fool's Gold E3 5b * 7
101 Walk on the Wild Side HVS 5a *** 440
102 Inca Trail E1 5a * 3
103 Midas Touch E1 5b *** 213
104 The Gold Bug E3 5c 11
105 Gold Rush E1 5b *** 421
106 After the Gold Rush (DAMAGED)
-
E2 5a 6
107 After the Grave Dig E1 5a * 100
108 Golddigger HVS 5a 20
  Deep Throat Buttress
110 Deep Throat Revived E5 6a 2
111 Power Play
-
E1 5b * 41
112 Foxy Woxy E3 5c ** 13
113 Shiny Happy People E3 6a ** 1
114 Crazy Daisy
-
HVS 5a 7
115 Think Positive
-
E2 6a 1
116 Shot In The Dark
-
E1 5a * 3
117 Evasive Action
-
VS 4c 2
  Right Hand Amphitheatre
119 B.C.'s Return
-
E1 5b 1
120 Urea
-
VS 4c 1
121 Stool Pigeon
-
E4 6b  
122 Both Toes Burning
-
E3 6a 1
123 The Colour Purple E1 5b 2
124 Red Snapper
-
E2 5c  
125 Band Aid
-
E3 5c  
126 Race Against Time
-
E3 5c  
127 Footloose
-
HVS 5a 2
  Unknown location Problems
129 Kein Trink Wasser HVS 5a 3
  Bouldering Area
131 Jerk Out f6A ** 9
132 Diagonal Crack
-
VB 4a 21
133 Zigzag Crack
-
VB 4a 18
134 Tiny Arete VB 5a 11
135 Spiderman VB 6b 4
136 Wide Crack
-
VB 4a 18
137 Finger Flakes VB 4a 13

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