Climbs 246
Rocktype Welsh igneous
Altitude 300m a.s.l
Faces E

Pitch 4 of Will-o'-the-Wisp and the lovely Cwm Cywarch © Peter Metcalfe

Crag features

A massive complex cliff-line in a superbly quiet location. This vast rambling mountainside, interspersing sheets of rock with towering gullies and vast amounts of heather terraces, will ideally suit strong-stomached mountaineers who can brave the "full mountain day out", or canny crag rats who will find the isolated clean walls and revel in some hidden gems. The climbing varies from long rambling easy classics to marginally accessible extreme testpieces, and polish is unlikely to be a problem.

The Mountain Club, Stafford who own the Hut Bryn Hafod that sits below the crag are in process of cleaning/restoring some of the routes, they have also produced a mini-guide. For a copy of this please go to their website http://www.themountainclub.org.uk/bryn-hafod/craig-cywarch/ and download it.

Approach notes

Turn off the A470 at Dinas Mawddwy and take take road toward Aber-Cywarch before following a minor road up the Cywarch valley.  There's a car park and only this should be used. See the approach notes on the mini-guide as mentioned above.

Access Advice

At present the only buttresses that are accessible are Tap y Graig, Craig Llywelyn, Esgair Felen Isaf and NNE Towers. All the others require some excessive gardening. See also the work that the Mountain Club, Stafford are doing above.

Rockfax App

Available in the Rockfax App

The Rockfax App brings together all the Rockfax climbing information with UKC logbooks and presents it into a user-friendly package for use on Apple iOS devices (Android version to follow).


Guidebooks

North Wales Climbs

North Wales Climbs covers the best climbing from the whole of this huge and varied area. The book is modelled on the very popular West Country Climbs which set a new standard for selected climb guidebooks back in 2010. It contains all the routes from the 2010 publication North Wales Classics and many more routes and areas, with expanded descriptions and much bigger photo-topos. The book covers all the major mountain crags from Llanberis Pass, to Cloggy; and from Ogwen to the Carneddau. It also includes the Llanberis Slate quarries, Tremadog, the Moelwyns, the Gwynant Valley, Mid-Wales, Gogarth and the North Coast Limestone.
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Pant Lygog
2 S&D
-
VD  
3 Portcullis
-
S 1
4 The Cywarch Finger Flake
-
E5 6a  
5 Kangaroo Moon
-
E6 6b  
6 Stronghold
-
S 4a 3
7 Battlements
-
HS 4a 1
8 Higher than the Sun
-
E3 6a  
  Tap Pant Cae
10 White Ribbon
-
HS 4a * 1
11 The Wizard
-
S 1
12 Green Wall
-
E2 5c 1
13 Dunsinane
-
HS 4a 1
14 The Sting
-
HVS 5a  
15 Gryptych
-
HS 4b  
16 Clubs
-
S  
17 Paper Back
-
HVS 5b  
18 Basil Brush Stroke
-
E6 6a *  
19 Room at the Top
-
HS 2
20 Pencilhead
-
E3 5c  
21 Penpushers Groove
-
E2 5c  
  Cwn yr Ychen
23 Kurzweg
-
D  
24 Steilweg
-
S  
25 Sharkfing
-
E2 5b *  
26 Schnellweg
-
S  
27 The Wall HVS 5a  
28 Taranu Crack
-
HVS 5a  
29 Flashback
-
HS 4b  
  Hidden Cwm
31 Knockdown
-
VD  
  Tap Rhygan Ddu
33 Shady Saunter
-
S  
34 Darkness on the Edge of Town
-
E3 6a  
35 Shouts in Space
-
E3 6a  
36 Chariots of Fire
-
E2 5c  
37 Sulpher Mountain
-
E5 6b  
38 The Devil Within
-
E6 6b  
39 Tithing Man
-
E4 6a  
40 Barbarism
-
E5 6b  
41 Bapteme de l'Air
-
E1 5b  
42 The Stud
-
E5 6c  
43 Tobias
-
E5 6b  
44 Girdle Traverse
-
VS 4b 1
45 General Galtierei
-
HS 4a  
  Tap y Gigfran
47 Concorde
-
S  
48 South West Arete
-
VD  
49 Concorde Direct
-
E1 5c  
50 The Clivierd Line
-
VS 4c  
51 Beggars Banquet
-
HVS 5b  
52 Buzzard's Balcony
-
S 3
53 Little Red Rooster
-
E2 5c  
54 Dream Racer
-
E2 5c 6
55 Lucy in the Sky
-
HVS 5a  
56 The Doghouse
-
E6 6b  
57 Sci-Fi
-
E7 6b 1
58 The Purge
-
E2 5c * 4
59 Sveinstock
-
HVS 5a 1
60 Crozzly Wall
-
E4 5c 1
61 Rolair
-
E3 6a  
62 Fleet Air Arm
-
E5 6c  
63 The Grafter
-
E3 6a 1
64 Heist
-
E2 5c 1
65 Tumblin' Dice
-
E2 5c  
66 The Crab
-
HVS 5a 1
67 Thyme
-
HVS 5b  
68 Nicht Schlafen Trauma
-
E5 6b  
69 Lanchester
-
HVS 4b 3
70 Incapability
-
D * 3
71 The Gem
-
HS 4b *** 7
72 Jack Of Diamonds
-
HVD 6
73 Hot Pants
-
VD 2
74 Wright's Route
-
S  
75 Sifta
-
S 1
76 Salt Free
-
HVS 5a  
77 Cerebos
-
S 3
78 Square-Cut Gully
-
M  
79 Square Chimney
-
VD  
  Tap Mawr
81 Migrane
-
HVS 5a 1
82 Black Wall
-
VS 4c  
83 Belli
-
HS  
84 Sheep's Climb
-
M 1
85 Jungle
-
VS 4b  
86 Short Circuit
-
VS 4b  
87 The Graveyard
-
HVS 5a 1
88 Frigid Pink
-
E1 5b  
89 Scourge
-
E1 5c 2
90 The Mind's Eye
-
E4 5c  
91 The Overlap E2 5c ** 1
92 Old Glory
-
E4 6a  
93 China Shop
-
VS 4b  
94 Live Like a King
-
E5 6b  
95 Wedgewood
-
HVS 5a 1
96 Loon Plage
-
E5 6b  
97 Bear Cage
-
E4 5c  
98 Tapdance
-
E5 6a  
99 Peacekeeper
-
E3 6a  
100 Soldier
-
E1 5b  
101 Delfr
-
HVS 5a  
102 Flanker
-
VD  
103 The Steeple
-
VS 4b  
104 Perishers
-
S  
105 Frontal Crack
-
VD 1
106 Little Gully
-
D  
107 Barad d'Ur
-
S  
  Tap y Graig
109 Fritz The Cat
-
VD 1
110 Flu '69
-
HS 4b 2
111 Tappers Arete VS 4c 1
112 Porcupine
-
VS  
113 Sweet Baby James HVS 5a ** 13
114 Mud Slide Slim VS 4c * 20
115 Oread VS 4b 2
116 Derwent
-
VS 4b 1
117 Electric Rail
-
HVS 5b  
118 Raindrop
-
VS 4c 2
119 Bluebell Babylon VS 4b 22
120 Will o' the Wisp HVD *** 325
121 Pear Tree Blues
-
VS 4c 3
122 Katmandu
-
HVS 4c 2
123 Katmandu, Direct Start
-
E1 5c  
124 A Touch of Class VD 2
125 Oh Calcutta
-
VS 4b  
126 Elephant Wall
-
S 4a 1
127 Diagonal Arete
-
D  
128 Baskerville
-
HVS 5a 1
129 Dancing Man
-
HVS 5a 1
130 The Fortifier
-
VS 4c 2
131 Central Route
-
S 2
132 Thung
-
VS 4b  
133 Bric-a-brac
-
VS 4b  
134 Brick Wall
-
E1 5b 2
135 George Machine
-
VS 4c 1
136 The Comedians
-
HVS 5a  
137 Second Foundation
-
E2 5c  
138 Auto-Man
-
HVS 5a  
139 Tombstone Blues
-
HS 4a  
140 Ring Wraith
-
HVS 4b 1
141 The Yellow Policeman
-
VS 4c 2
142 Quartzberg
-
HVS 5a  
143 Surrealistic
-
S  
144 Tower of Babel
-
VD * 5
145 The Dome
-
VS 4b 1
146 Alicia
-
HVS 5a  
147 Great Gully
-
D  
  Esgair Felen
149 Shade of Pale
-
E1 5b ** 4
150 Shade of Pale Right-Hand
-
HVS 5a  
151 Lone Ranger
-
HVS 5a  
152 Grimbarian
-
VS 4b  
153 The Mekon
-
S 3
154 The Worm
-
HVS 5b  
155 The Arch
-
S 3
156 Lectern Direct
-
VS 4c 1
157 Yggdrasil
-
VD 1
  Esgair Felen Isaf
159 Peal
-
HS 4a 1
160 Recuperation
-
D 2
161 Restoration S 4a * 13
162 Reconnection D  
163 Twink HVD ** 3
164 Retwink HVD  
165 Twinker S 4a  
166 First Anniversary M * 14
167 The Archer
-
VS 4c  
168 Lincoln Green
-
VS 5a  
169 Inclination
-
HS  
  Hafn Mawr
171 North Gully
-
HS  
172 Rolling Stone
-
S  
173 All in a Day
-
E2 6b  
174 Time After Tim
-
E2 6b  
175 Mothers Pride
-
HS 4b 1
176 Big Boy
-
E3 6a  
177 Sickle Wall
-
S 4b 1
178 The Scythe
-
VS 4a 1
179 Apollo
-
VS 4b  
180 Half Moon Crack
-
S  
181 Relaxation
-
VD  
  NNE Towers
183 For Hyll Drem
-
E4 5c  
184 Wunderstuff
-
E5 6b  
185 Hot House Flowers
-
E3 5c  
186 South Face Crack HS 4b  
187 Don't Even Think About It
-
E5 6b  
188 Bundu VS 4b  
189 Wig Walk VS 4c  
  Sawdl y Graig
191 Phoebus VD 2
192 Lethe
-
D 1
193 Free Aran
-
E5 6a  
194 AGM
-
VD 1
195 Styx
-
VS 4b 1
196 The Technician
-
E3 5c  
197 Technician Direct
-
E4 5c  
198 Hades
-
E1 5a 1
199 Hell's Gate
-
E2 5b  
200 Stygian Wall
-
VS 4c * 8
201 Strobe E3 6a 6
202 Carrion
-
E1 5b  
203 Trouble Maker
-
E2 5c  
204 Tech Noir
-
E6 6b  
205 Charon
-
E1 5b 1
206 Pluto
-
E3 5c  
207 Sweet September
-
E6 6b  
208 Midsummer's Day Dream
-
E5 6b  
209 Girdle Traverse
-
E1 5b  
  Craig Llywelyn
211 Trend
-
VS 4b  
212 Troom
-
VD  
213 Vulcan
-
HVS 5b 1
214 Acheron HVS 5a ** 58
215 Kaisepakte
-
E1 5b  
216 The Mule
-
E1 5b  
217 Doom VS 4c *** 92
218 Italia 90
-
E2 5b  
219 Guillotine
-
VS 4b  
220 Northerner
-
E2 5c  
221 Midlander
-
VS 4c  
222 The Big Cleft
-
HVS 5a  
223 Man of Kent
-
VS 4c 2
224 The Magic Dragon
-
HVS 5a 1
225 Click
-
VS 4b 1
226 Jugs Groove
-
E3 5c 1
227 Mad Ray
-
E5 6a  
228 Girdle Traverse
-
HVS 5a  
229 Pick n' Choose
-
E4 6a  
  Ffenestr y Graig
231 Hope Street
-
S 4a  
232 Learning to Fly
-
E3 5c 1
233 Hopsit
-
HS 4b  
234 The Whisper
-
HVS 5a  
235 Quartz Wall
-
E1 5c 1
236 First Visit
-
HVS 5a 1
237 Quartizone
-
E6 6b  
238 Cat a' Nine Tails
-
E2 5c  
239 Quartz Buttress
-
HVS 5a  
240 Powder Monkey
-
E2 5c  
241 Hard Rain
-
E2 5c  
242 Plankwalk
-
HVS 5b 3
243 Keel Haul
-
E2 5b *** 7
244 Gornik
-
S 4a  
245 Ceramic Chimney
-
S  
246 Sybarite
-
HVS 4b  
247 Spartan
-
E2 5c  
248 Crimea
-
E5 6a  
249 Heretic
-
E2 5c  
250 Quartz Vein
-
VS 4c  
251 King Edwards Army
-
HVS 5b  
  Creigiau Sawdl Efa
253 Bubble Wall
-
HS 4b  
254 Ronkle Boot Chimney
-
D  
255 The Little Red Helmet
-
S  
256 Where Eagles Dare
-
HVS 5a 1
257 Whirligig
-
S 4a  
  Creigiau Camddwr
259 Whistling in the Dark
-
E3 5b  
260 Strolling in the Park
-
E2 5b  
261 First fruit V0+ 1
262 The Ponytail Parades V0- 1
263 Kestral Cracks
-
VS 4

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