Climbs 381
Rocktype Limestone

Faces S

Valley of the blind. Lion Rock. Cheddar © TimC123

Crag features

Sunshine until mid-afternoon (Pride Evans Cliff is to low down to see the sun in mid-winter). Mostly hard and steep climbing. Mixture of sport and trad.

Collection of small crags on the North side of the gorge near the village. Lion Rock, Pride Evans Cave, and The Remnant.

All feature mostly hard and steep climbing and a mixture of sport and trad.

Approach notes

Climbing is allowed year round on most cliffs on the North side though the access situation is sensitive, due to the high visibility of these crags and the risk of stones being dislodged.

Don't approach The Remnant from the car park directly below - follow the path from Lion Rock.

Avoid Prospect Tier and the bay to its right during summer.

Check online with the BMC regional access database.

Access Advice

The north side of the Gorge is predominantly owned by the National Trust and mapped as Open Access land under the CRoW Act. This gives a right of access for climbers to use these crags and a list of the north side crags where there is year round climbing access is available on the Cheddar Gorge access calendar, which is downloadable for free by clicking here: www.thebmc.co.uk/Download.aspx?id=807. Any north side crags not mentioned in the calendar list can only be accessed from 1st October – 15th March each year. The calendar has the definitive details of access dates for all crags whether on the north or south side, and should be considered required reading for any climber visiting the Gorge, regardless of where you plan to climb.
The latest guide to the Gorge - 'Cheddar Gorge Climbs' (M. Crocker, 2009) – has details of the more popular crags on the north side and definitive details of restored routes on the south side. It is available from The Gorge Outdoors shop in Cheddar village, as well as other climbing and outdoor shops in the area.

Seasonal Restrictions

Reason: Nesting Birds

Dogs should be kept under control on a lead at any crags on the north side of the Gorge.
The National Trust have placed a 5 year moratorium (commencing Nov 2009) on placing new bolts on the N side of the gorge. See the full BMC news item here - www.thebmc.co.uk/News.aspx?id=3427

Note that these climbs also appear under Arch Rock on UKC
James Moyle - 14/Jun/09
Cycled past this today (5th july) and theres been a big rockfall. Seems to have taken out a lot of the right hand side of the wall. Probably safest to leave the entire thing alone untill it gets cleaned up.
remtherockclimber - 05/Jul/08
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Lion Rock
2 Lion's Share HVS 4c 1
3 Pussy Galore E4 6b 1
4 Human Zoo 7c ** 80
5 Lions Pride 8a * 9
6 Cheddar Death Knell 7b+ 37
7 Taming of the Lion E6 6c *** 14
8 Circus, Circus 7c * 52
9 Circus Finale 7c+ ** 1
10 Shadow Walker 8a+ * 30
11 Roy Walker connection 8a * 9
12 Lion Sleeps Tonight 8a * 43
13 The Snarl E4 6b * 1
14 Simba E1 5b ** 77
15 Lion in Winter E3 6a * 4
16 Tonight at Noon
-
7c+ 6
17 Jah Lion 8a 2
18 Valley of the Blind 7c *** 235
19 English Cheddar Gorgeous E5 6b ** 1
20 Seriously Strong Cheddar
-
E6 6b *** 3
21 ECG E5 6a 2
22 Leadbelly VS 4c 8
23 Rock Junky 7a+ 48
24 The Forest VS 4b  
25 Not that kind of pussy 8a+ *** 1
  The Remnant
27 Under Suveillance HVS 5c  
28 Game Over S  
29 Fred the Shred E4 6a 2
30 No Purchase Necessary E1 5c 11
31 Easy Pickings VS 4b 19
32 Immaculate Conception 6c+ 74
33 Days in the Desert 6b+ 180
34 Numbskull E1 5b * 12
35 Das Goot, Yah? 6b * 258
36 My Bones, My Bones, My E4 6b 1
37 Old Bones E5 6a  
38 Bristol Weed 8a+ 22
39 Superskunk 8a+  
40 The Spiritual Rapist 8a+ *  
41 Homegrown 8a+ 39
42 Drugstore Cowboy 8b * 3
43 The Wrist Business 7c+ * 73
44 Just Say No 8a 41
45 The Business 8a * 2
46 Left Hand Path 8a *  
47 Take Care and Control 8a+ *  
48 Try to Remember E6 6b 25
49 Right-Hand Man 8a 110
50 Buried Alive E5 6b 1
51 It's a Kind of Magic 7a+ *** 372
52 Skeleton E2 5c 15
53 Fossil E3 5c 10
54 The Empire Strikes Back 8a+ 14
55 The Death Star 8c * 3
56 Everyday Lives of Ordinary People 7c 138
57 Skullduggery 7a+ 258
58 Spider Down My Vest - Cardiac Arrest! E5 6a 1
59 Bouncing Barry 7b+ 34
60 Bouncing Spy 7c * 14
61 Spy in the Sky 7b ** 162
62 Act of Vengance 7b+ 23
63 Star Wars: The Trilogy E7 6c 1
64 The Message E3 6a  
65 A Question of Sport HVS 5a  
66 Aqueous S 1
67 The Growing Business * 8a **  
  Pride Evans Cave
69 Gordon's Big Nose
-
6b 49
70 Can't Give a Finger 6a 63
71 Sprechen Ewe Loos
-
6b+ 44
72 Crèvecoeur
-
E3 6a  
73 Enemy of the State
-
E2 5b 2
74 Fallingwater (Left) 7c+ * 3
75 Fallingwater 8c * 1
76 Ultra-Violence 7c+ * 5
77 Jihadi 8a 7
78 Secret Cabaret 7c+ 22
79 Jewel in the Sun E5 6b *** 2
80 Jewel of a Son 7b+ * 45
81 Piglet's Groove VS 4c * 3
82 Sing a Mean Toon, Kid 7b+ ** 123
83 Pyrotechnician (Left) 7c+ ** 23
84 Directoonima 7c *** 29
85 Burning Ambition 8a 7
86 House Burning Down 7b+ *** 299
87 Pride Evans Locker 7c * 12
88 Pyrotechnician 8a 2
89 Mini Cooper 7c+ * 2
90 Ghetto Bouteille 8a *** 3
91 All About That Bass 7c 1
92 Sleepless in Minehead 7c+ *  
93 Baby Got Back 7c+ *  
94 Rustler 6c * 144
95 Privy Purse HVS 5a 5
96 Solstice HVS 5b/c  
97 It's Behind Yew HVS 5a  
98 Cellar Traverse
-
V7 1
  Easter Island
100 Yew Who!
-
E3 6a 2
101 Parallel Cracks M 3
102 Goldilock's Zone E2 5c 35
103 Hepatitis VS 4b 80
104 Silence of the Lamb Chops E3 5b 11
105 What's All This Then? 5c * 484
106 Hot Enough? 6a * 522
107 The One-Armed Man 6a 485
108 In the Waiting Line 4c * 422
109 Dwain Dibbly 6a+ 228
110 Take Hart
-
E2 6a 30
111 Moai 6a 142
  The Wave
113 Like a Virgin E3 6b 1
114 Dead on Arrival 6a+ 268
115 The Bloodshed Begins 6a+ * 253
116 Ritual Slaughter 7a * 96
117 Millimetre War 7c 54
118 To-ally Wick-ed E1 5b 2
119 The Gift 6b+ 82
120 Billy Crystal 6b+ 65
121 Crystal Gale 7a+ 17
122 Grope the Slope 6c * 45
123 Three's Company 6b+ 118
124 The Minstrel 7a+ * 130
125 Real Runners' E3 5b/c 6
126 G Whizz 7b+ 22
127 Mutant Frenzy Bug 6c+ * 128
128 Toxic Shock 6b 406
129 Islands in the City 7a+ 181
130 Greed 7b+ 13
131 Utility Cock 7c+ 9
132 Insatiable 7b+ * 273
133 Raw Deal 7a ** 657
134 Bursting the Wave 8a * 25
135 Holdloss 7c 2
136 Slix 8a  
137 Bee Keeping in a War Zone 6c+ 23
138 Seven Months Later 7c 84
139 Ebee G Bees
-
E1 5a 5
140 Missing on the Somme 6c 29
141 Split Rambo 7b+ 25
142 Liquid Crystal 8a * 43
143 A Day Called Zero 8a * 34
144 Sophisticated 7a+ * 15
145 Psycho-Babble 6b+ 79
146 Hell's a Hard Place 7a+  
  The Tsunami
148 Who is the Enigmatic Mystery Climber? 6a+ 45
149 Three Dark Nights
-
6c+ 28
150 Joyride 7a 186
151 Liquid Sky
-
7a+ 12
152 Les Trois Chevres 7a+ 47
153 One for the Northern Brats
-
7b+ 8
154 Sweet Tufa
-
8a 16
155 Ya-Boo Yorkie! 7b+ * 21
156 Hard Bass Religion
-
7c 9
157 Gob Blob
-
7b 1
158 Moonmilk
-
7b 5
159 Bick Zoomhead
-
7b  
160 Velcro Wall 7b 23
161 Velcro Beach 7b+ * 1
162 Dope on a Slope 7a+ 28
163 On Beachy Head 7b 14
164 Stoned to Death 6a 52
  Secret Solo Bluff
166 Night Vision E6 6a 1
167 Hard Lime
-
E5 6b 1
168 Dangerous Dusk
-
E5 6a 1
169 Thin Towers
-
E4 6b 1
170 Above and Beyond the I'm So Pathetic Barrier E1 6a 2
171 Secrets of 2002
-
E4 6a 1
172 No Gear - Oh Dear!
-
E3 5c 2
173 Secretly Barmy 8a  
  Prospect Tier
175 Wham Bam Thank You Ma'am
-
VS 5a  
176 Hair Cut
-
VS 4c 19
177 Mohican E1 5b 4
178 Gentlemen in Red Trousers'
-
E4 6b  
179 Short Cut
-
S 4a 23
180 Surprise Cockfags VS 4c  
181 Your Destiny
-
E4 6a  
182 Centrefold E1 5b 9
183 Charge
-
VS 4c 37
184 Le soupçon S 4a * 4
185 Watching the Days Go By
-
E4 6a  
186 Digit Arete
-
E5 6a 2
187 Digit Wall
-
E2 5b 17
188 Pot of Crock
-
E4 6a  
189 Wild Frontier
-
E6 6b 1
190 No Fit State
-
7a+  
191 Fart E2 5c 2
192 Vic Bond
-
E4 6b  
193 Maker's Nameplate E5 6b 2
194 Jon Luke
-
E5 6b  
195 Rigorous Self Abuse
-
E5 6a  
196 The Wink E2 5b 12
197 The Nod E2 5b 6
198 Mary Jane VS 4c 31
199 Prospect Eliminate
-
E4 5c  
200 Madcap Laughs VS 4b 22
201 Asylum
-
HVS 5b 2
202 Lonely Pride E4 6b 2
203 Sub-Mescalito
-
E2 5c  
  Heart Leaf Bluff
205 Forgotten Sacrifices
-
HS 78
206 Brass Monkey
-
HS 4a 114
207 Weasel Words
-
E4 6b  
208 Inter-continental Ballisic Bonzo
-
E3 6a 8
209 Condensation Canyon
-
E4 6a 2
210 Funny Bone HVS 5a 49
211 Humerus S 121
212 Riotsville E2 5c 15
213 Forward Thinking
-
E5 6a 8
214 Greg's Little Wall of Horrors E2 5c 32
215 In-between Boobs E5 6a 4
216 Readers' Wives E1 5a 3
217 Letcher E5 6a 4
218 Consenting Adults
-
E2 5b 48
219 Craitor Traitor E5 6b 3
220 Heart Leaf Climb S 4a 46
221 Heart Leaf Direct
-
E3 6a 9
222 Au Bout de Souffle
-
E5 6a  
223 Harley Street E4 5c 3
224 Driller Killer, Q'est-ce Que C'est? 7c 46
225 Fettered Trajectory 7b+ 105
226 Air to Air Exit 7b+ 8
227 Concorde E5 6b 9
228 Tumbletot
-
E5 6b 1
229 La Tour Noire E5 6a 13
230 La Tour Noire Super E6 6b 7
231 Dinner Date E1 5b 105
232 My Wife's Apple Crumble E5 6b 2
233 Mescalito 7c 71
234 Rave Party 7a+ 57
235 Make It Snappy! 4c 72
236 I Can't Believe It's a Texan 5c 94
237 I've Lost My Canadian 5a 108
238 Pregnancy Rocks Boyo! 6c 51
239 Keep the Home Fires Burning 6a 80
240 Old Romantics
-
E2 5c  
241 The Three Bombadiers
-
E2 5c  
242 Nameless Scoop
-
E2 5c  
243 Just My Imagination
-
E2 5c  
244 Once Again
-
E2 5c  
245 Robertson's Jam E4 6a 2
246 Lean Burn 7b 26
247 Me No Stereotype 7c 17
248 Will Stanton 8a+ 31
249 The Witch of Wookey 8a+  
250 Stanton Warriors 8b  
251 Still Wanton
-
7b  
252 Gorilla Tactics
-
E3 5c  
253 Sentinel
-
E3 6a  
254 Sentinel Direct
-
E4 6a  
255 Mix a Quick Fix
-
7a+ 1
256 Vanguard E3 6a 6
257 Bollocks to Broccoli 7b 15
258 What Lies Beneath 6c+ 18
259 Editorial Axe
-
E3 6a 1
260 Pitchfork Rebellion E5 6b/c 1
261 Gubia 7b+ ** 51
262 Rainy Day - Dream Away
-
E5 6b  
263 In from the Storm
-
E4 6b  
264 Bikini Amber 7a+ 45
265 A Day for Feet E2 6a 10
266 Look Around to See What to Look Up for E3 6a 3
267 No Grappling; No Ska 6a 13
268 The Great Dane and Other Tall Tales
-
S  
269 Micawberism
-
HVS 5a  
270 Cyclists Advised to Walk
-
E2 5c  
271 Avalon
-
VS 4c  
272 Sell Your Soul
-
E1 5a  
273 So This is Christmas
-
HS 5a  
274 Another Year Over
-
S 5a  
275 Mare's Nest
-
VD 3
276 The Grail
-
E2 5c  
277 Can-Can
-
VB 5b  
278 Danemark
-
HVS 5a 1
279 Groundrush
-
E4 6a  
280 Assassin!
-
E6 6b 1
281 Thriller
-
E3 5c 2
282 Psycho
-
E1 5b 2
283 Kay
-
VS 4c  
284 Slow Return
-
E2 5b  
285 First a Fence
-
E6 6b 1
286 Dead Stop
-
E5 6a/b  
287 Poisoned Ivy
-
E4 5c 1
288 Free Fall
-
E2 5b  
289 The Dimming of the Day
-
E2 5c 1
290 Peg Leg Crack
-
HS 4a 3
291 Mon Dieu
-
E3 5c  
292 Zut Alors!
-
VS 4c  
293 Elizabeth Route
-
D 9
294 North-West Arete
-
E3 6a  
295 Original Route
-
D 6
296 Mariette Route
-
VD 16
297 A Slice at the Wife
-
E1 5b  
298 Emily's Dog
-
VS 4b 2
299 Burial Route
-
D 11
  The Narrows
301 I Got One! 5c 187
302 Sound Your Horn 7a+ 65
303 Where The Sun Don't Shine 6b 197
304 Keep it in the Family 6a+ 206
305 Maiden Flight 6b+ * 136
306 Hill 62 5a 247
307 White Smoke 4a 325
308 That Hollow Feeling 6a+ * 57
309 Like Father Like Son 5a * 426
310 Drukpa Dzong 4c 232
311 Totally Elched 6b 141
312 Spoon Jar Jar Spoon 6a * 327
313 Rush Hour
-
6a 49
314 Fez
-
6a 184
  Arch Rock
316 Three Pounds Per Tonne 4a 460
317 Oh Pretty Woman! 5c 379
318 Lapse In Taste 5c 410
319 Mr Ripple
-
6a * 540
320 Big Budget Productions
-
6a * 446
321 Waiting for Gordito
-
E1 5b 19
322 Room With A View
-
6a+ * 410
323 Lady Cassidy 6a+ * 303
324 Galena Colada
-
6c * 233
325 Get Kimitri! E5 6a * 13
326 No Time to Lose 6b * 221
327 No Time at All
-
E5 6a 2
328 Snug as a Slug on a Jug 7a+ 95
329 Screwballed! 7a * 348
330 Keystone Cop-Out E4 5c 5
331 Playboys 7b+ * 161
332 All Hands to the Pump 7b * 338
333 Stone Town
-
6b+ * 363
334 Off the Wall 6b * 578
335 Breezes 6c 141
336 Cascara Crack
-
S 4a 104
337 Hug the Jug
-
5a 593
338 Don't Fear the Bleater
-
5c 605
339 Un-named Severe, Arch Rock S 5
340 As Happy as a Slug in Slime
-
E4 5c 12
341 Cross-Town Traffic 6c 7
  Stepped Wall
343 Mokee Dugway Backway 6c 94
344 Chilli Cheesedog
-
6a 424
345 Streamline
-
E1 5b 24
346 Where the Hell Is Hanksville 6c * 138
347 No Saanich in Salsa
-
6a+ 95
348 Stepped Wall
-
VD 247
349 Matanuska VS 4c 144
350 Little Hopper VS 4b * 229
351 Always Tomorrow 7b * 31
352 Tomorrow Never Dies E4 6b 2
353 Odds against Tomorrow E5 6a * 4
354 Cryogenics 7a+ ** 127
355 Bluepoint 7a+ * 95
356 Bullsblood 6c+ * 51
357 Decimation
-
7a+ 82
358 Subcutaneous Tissue
-
E2 5a 4
359 Little M
-
6b 223
360 Stepping Back 6c * 194
361 Roamertherapy
-
E2 5b 4
362 What 5a 152
363 Problem A
-
V0 * 18
364 Problem B
-
V0+ 5a * 19
365 Problem C
-
V1 5c * 12
366 Problem D
-
V0+ 5b * 17
367 Problem E
-
V0+ 5b * 17
  Overshoot Wall
369 Whose Line Is It Anyway? 7a * 277
370 Airborne Attack 6b+ * 280
371 Arcadia 5a 521
372 Lucifera VD 196
373 Mojave Dust 6a 412
374 Busking for bolts 4c 498
375 Think Again
-
4a 419
376 Eastender HVS 5a * 104
377 Comfortably Numb 7a+ 55
378 The Heavy Brigade
-
6b 230
379 Berlin Wall
-
6a+ 230
380 Groove Armada 6a * 371
381 The Only Fear Is a Flat Planet
-
6a+ * 272
382 There's Always An Angle
-
5c 297
383 Hairline
-
E1 5c 1
384 Absolutely Amazing Climb II E2 6a 1
385 The Unrelenting Wit of David Turnbull E4 6b 3
386 Death of Fridays
-
6a+ 22
387 problem F V3 6a 16
388 Problem G V2 5c/6a 13
389 Problem H V2 5c * 4
390 Prospect Gully D 1
391 Peregrines Picnic E1 5b 1
392 Nails vellard VS 4c 1
393 Thanks For A Lovely Girdle 6b 4
394 Leader of the pack 7c 2
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Action9