UKC

Climbs 382
Rocktype Limestone

Faces S

Valley of the blind. Lion Rock. Cheddar © TimC123

Crag features

Sunshine until mid-afternoon (Pride Evans Cliff is to low down to see the sun in mid-winter). Mostly hard and steep climbing. Mixture of sport and trad.

Collection of small crags on the North side of the gorge near the village. Lion Rock, Pride Evans Cave, and The Remnant.

All feature mostly hard and steep climbing and a mixture of sport and trad.

Approach notes

Climbing is allowed year round on most cliffs on the North side though the access situation is sensitive, due to the high visibility of these crags and the risk of stones being dislodged.

Don't approach The Remnant from the car park directly below - follow the path from Lion Rock.

Avoid Prospect Tier and the bay to its right during summer.

Check online with the BMC regional access database.

Access Advice

The north side of the Gorge is predominantly owned by the National Trust and mapped as Open Access land under the CRoW Act. This gives a right of access for climbers to use these crags and a list of the north side crags where there is year round climbing access is available on the Cheddar Gorge access calendar, which is downloadable for free by clicking here: www.thebmc.co.uk/Download.aspx?id=807. Any north side crags not mentioned in the calendar list can only be accessed from 1st October – 15th March each year. The calendar has the definitive details of access dates for all crags whether on the north or south side, and should be considered required reading for any climber visiting the Gorge, regardless of where you plan to climb.
The latest guide to the Gorge - 'Cheddar Gorge Climbs' (M. Crocker, 2009) – has details of the more popular crags on the north side and definitive details of restored routes on the south side. It is available from The Gorge Outdoors shop in Cheddar village, as well as other climbing and outdoor shops in the area.

Seasonal Restrictions

Reason: Nesting Birds

Dogs should be kept under control on a lead at any crags on the north side of the Gorge.
The National Trust have placed a 5 year moratorium (commencing Nov 2009) on placing new bolts on the N side of the gorge. See the full BMC news item here - www.thebmc.co.uk/News.aspx?id=3427

Note that these climbs also appear under Arch Rock on UKC
James Moyle - 14/Jun/09
Cycled past this today (5th july) and theres been a big rockfall. Seems to have taken out a lot of the right hand side of the wall. Probably safest to leave the entire thing alone untill it gets cleaned up.
remtherockclimber - 05/Jul/08
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Lion Rock
2 Lion's Share HVS 4c 2
3 Pussy Galore E4 6b 1
4 Human Zoo 7c ** 93
5 Lions Pride 8a * 22
6 Cheddar Death Knell 7b+ 53
7 Taming of the Lion E6 6c *** 15
8 Circus, Circus 7c * 59
9 Circus Finale 7c+ ** 1
10 Shadow Walker 8a+ * 35
11 Roy Walker connection 8a * 9
12 Lion Sleeps Tonight 8a * 36
13 The Snarl E4 6b * 2
14 Simba E1 5b ** 67
15 Lion in Winter E3 6a * 4
16 Tonight at Noon
-
7c+ 6
17 Jah Lion 8a 2
18 Valley of the Blind 7c *** 200
19 English Cheddar Gorgeous E5 6b ** 1
20 Seriously Strong Cheddar
-
E6 6b *** 3
21 ECG E5 6a 2
22 Leadbelly VS 4c 9
23 Rock Junky 7a+ 48
24 The Forest VS 4b  
25 Not that kind of pussy 8a+ *** 1
26 Fat boy's shadow * 8a ** 1
  The Remnant
28 Under Suveillance HVS 5c  
29 Game Over S  
30 Fred the Shred E4 6a 2
31 No Purchase Necessary E1 5c 11
32 Easy Pickings VS 4b 21
33 Immaculate Conception 6c+ 82
34 Days in the Desert 6b+ 209
35 Numbskull E1 5b * 12
36 Das Goot, Yah? 6b * 310
37 My Bones, My Bones, My E4 6b 1
38 Old Bones E5 6a  
39 Bristol Weed 8a+ 27
40 Superskunk 8a+ 1
41 The Spiritual Rapist 8a+ *  
42 Homegrown 8a+ 31
43 Drugstore Cowboy 8b * 3
44 The Wrist Business 7c+ * 77
45 Just Say No 8a 40
46 The Business 8a * 7
47 Left Hand Path 8a *  
48 Take Care and Control 8a+ *  
49 Try to Remember E6 6b 25
50 Right-Hand Man 8a 127
51 Buried Alive E5 6b 1
52 It's a Kind of Magic 7a+ *** 410
53 Skeleton E2 5c 17
54 Fossil E3 5c 10
55 The Empire Strikes Back 8a+ 12
56 The Death Star 8c * 4
57 Everyday Lives of Ordinary People 7c 153
58 Skullduggery 7a+ 290
59 Spider Down My Vest - Cardiac Arrest! E5 6a 1
60 Bouncing Barry 7b+ 35
61 Bouncing Spy 7c * 14
62 Spy in the Sky 7b ** 198
63 Act of Vengance 7b+ 26
64 Star Wars: The Trilogy E7 6c 1
65 The Message E3 6a  
66 A Question of Sport HVS 5a  
67 Aqueous S 1
68 Star Killer Base * 8b * 1
  Pride Evans Cave
70 Gordon's Big Nose
-
6b 52
71 Can't Give a Finger 6a 65
72 Sprechen Ewe Loos
-
6b+ 46
73 Crèvecoeur
-
E3 6a  
74 Enemy of the State
-
E2 5b 2
75 Fallingwater (Left) 7c+ * 3
76 Fallingwater 8c * 1
77 Ultra-Violence 7c+ * 5
78 Jihadi 8a 7
79 Secret Cabaret 7c+ 27
80 Jewel in the Sun E5 6b *** 2
81 Jewel of a Son 7b+ * 47
82 Piglet's Groove VS 4c * 3
83 Sing a Mean Toon, Kid 7b+ ** 124
84 Pyrotechnician (Left) 7c+ ** 23
85 Directoonima 7c *** 34
86 Burning Ambition 8a 9
87 House Burning Down 7b+ *** 264
88 Pride Evans Locker 7c * 11
89 Pyrotechnician 8a 2
90 Mini Cooper 7c+ * 2
91 Ghetto Bouteille 8a *** 3
92 All About That Bass 7c 1
93 Sleepless in Minehead 7c+ *  
94 Baby Got Back 8a *  
95 Rustler 6c * 151
96 Privy Purse HVS 5a 5
97 Solstice HVS 5b/c  
98 It's Behind Yew HVS 5a  
99 Cellar Traverse
-
V7 1
  Easter Island
101 Yew Who!
-
E3 6a 2
102 Parallel Cracks M 6
103 Goldilock's Zone E2 5c 40
104 Hepatitis VS 4b 87
105 Silence of the Lamb Chops E3 5b 11
106 What's All This Then? 5c * 530
107 Hot Enough? 6a * 576
108 The One-Armed Man 6a 535
109 In the Waiting Line 4c * 464
110 Dwain Dibbly 6a+ 248
111 Take Hart
-
E2 6a 32
112 Moai 6a 162
  The Wave
114 Like a Virgin E3 6b 1
115 Dead on Arrival 6a+ 290
116 The Bloodshed Begins 6a+ * 270
117 Ritual Slaughter 7a * 88
118 Millimetre War 7c 55
119 To-ally Wick-ed E1 5b 1
120 The Gift 6b+ 92
121 Billy Crystal 6b+ 66
122 Crystal Gale 7a+ 20
123 Grope the Slope 6c * 52
124 Three's Company 6b+ 126
125 The Minstrel 7a+ * 131
126 Real Runners' E3 5b/c 9
127 G Whizz 7b+ 22
128 Mutant Frenzy Bug 6c+ * 132
129 Toxic Shock 6b 448
130 Islands in the City 7a+ 178
131 Greed 7b+ 13
132 Utility Cock 7c+ 10
Climb name Grade
133 Insatiable 7b+ * 259
134 Raw Deal 7a ** 649
135 Bursting the Wave 8a * 26
136 Holdloss 7c 4
137 Slix 8a 1
138 Bee Keeping in a War Zone 6c+ 27
139 Seven Months Later 7c 96
140 Ebee G Bees
-
E1 5a 8
141 Missing on the Somme 6c 28
142 Split Rambo 7b+ 27
143 Liquid Crystal 8a * 49
144 A Day Called Zero 8a * 38
145 Sophisticated 7a+ * 14
146 Psycho-Babble 6b+ 79
147 Hell's a Hard Place 7a+  
  The Tsunami
149 Who is the Enigmatic Mystery Climber? 6a+ 52
150 Three Dark Nights
-
6c+ 31
151 Joyride 7a 204
152 Liquid Sky
-
7a+ 13
153 Les Trois Chevres 7a+ 50
154 One for the Northern Brats
-
7b+ 8
155 Sweet Tufa
-
8a 21
156 Ya-Boo Yorkie! 7b+ * 22
157 Hard Bass Religion
-
7c 9
158 Gob Blob
-
7b 1
159 Moonmilk
-
7b 6
160 Bick Zoomhead
-
7b  
161 Velcro Wall 7b 25
162 Velcro Beach 7b+ * 1
163 Dope on a Slope 7a+ 33
164 On Beachy Head 7b 16
165 Stoned to Death 6a 61
  Secret Solo Bluff
167 Night Vision E6 6a 1
168 Hard Lime
-
E5 6b 1
169 Dangerous Dusk
-
E5 6a 1
170 Thin Towers
-
E4 6b 1
171 Above and Beyond the I'm So Pathetic Barrier E1 6a 2
172 Secrets of 2002
-
E4 6a 1
173 No Gear - Oh Dear!
-
E3 5c 2
174 Secretly Barmy 8a  
  Prospect Tier
176 Wham Bam Thank You Ma'am
-
VS 5a  
177 Hair Cut
-
VS 4c 21
178 Mohican E1 5b 4
179 Gentlemen in Red Trousers'
-
E4 6b  
180 Short Cut
-
S 4a 23
181 Surprise Cockfags VS 4c  
182 Your Destiny
-
E4 6a  
183 Centrefold E1 5b 9
184 Charge
-
VS 4c 39
185 Le soupçon S 4a * 4
186 Watching the Days Go By
-
E4 6a  
187 Digit Arete
-
E5 6a 2
188 Digit Wall
-
E2 5b 17
189 Pot of Crock
-
E4 6a  
190 Wild Frontier
-
E6 6b 1
191 No Fit State
-
7a+  
192 Fart E2 5c 2
193 Vic Bond
-
E4 6b  
194 Maker's Nameplate E5 6b 2
195 Jon Luke
-
E5 6b  
196 Rigorous Self Abuse
-
E5 6a  
197 The Wink E2 5b 12
198 The Nod E2 5b 6
199 Mary Jane VS 4c 31
200 Prospect Eliminate
-
E4 5c  
201 Madcap Laughs VS 4b 22
202 Asylum
-
HVS 5b 2
203 Lonely Pride E4 6b 2
204 Sub-Mescalito
-
E2 5c  
  Heart Leaf Bluff
206 Forgotten Sacrifices
-
HS 83
207 Brass Monkey
-
HS 4a 121
208 Weasel Words
-
E4 6b  
209 Inter-continental Ballisic Bonzo
-
E3 6a 8
210 Condensation Canyon
-
E4 6a 2
211 Funny Bone HVS 5a 46
212 Humerus S 121
213 Riotsville E2 5c 16
214 Forward Thinking
-
E5 6a 8
215 Greg's Little Wall of Horrors E2 5c 32
216 In-between Boobs E5 6a 4
217 Readers' Wives E1 5a 3
218 Letcher E5 6a 4
219 Consenting Adults
-
E2 5b 48
220 Craitor Traitor E5 6b 3
221 Heart Leaf Climb S 4a 52
222 Heart Leaf Direct
-
E3 6a 9
223 Au Bout de Souffle
-
E5 6a  
224 Harley Street E4 5c 3
225 Driller Killer, Q'est-ce Que C'est? 7c 49
226 Fettered Trajectory 7b+ 111
227 Air to Air Exit 7b+ 8
228 Concorde E5 6b 9
229 Tumbletot
-
E5 6b 1
230 La Tour Noire E5 6a 13
231 La Tour Noire Super E6 6b 7
232 Dinner Date E1 5b 111
233 My Wife's Apple Crumble E5 6b 2
234 Mescalito 7c 78
235 Rave Party 7a+ 57
236 Make It Snappy! 4c 82
237 I Can't Believe It's a Texan 5c 95
238 I've Lost My Canadian 5a 106
239 Pregnancy Rocks Boyo! 6c 48
240 Keep the Home Fires Burning 6a 89
241 Old Romantics
-
E2 5c  
242 The Three Bombadiers
-
E2 5c  
243 Nameless Scoop
-
E2 5c  
244 Just My Imagination
-
E2 5c  
245 Once Again
-
E2 5c  
246 Robertson's Jam E4 6a 2
247 Lean Burn 7b 28
248 Me No Stereotype 7c 19
249 Will Stanton 8a+ 26
250 The Witch of Wookey 8a+  
251 Stanton Warriors 8b  
252 Still Wanton
-
7b  
253 Gorilla Tactics
-
E3 5c  
254 Sentinel
-
E3 6a  
255 Sentinel Direct
-
E4 6a  
256 Mix a Quick Fix
-
7a+ 1
257 Vanguard E3 6a 6
258 Bollocks to Broccoli 7b 19
259 What Lies Beneath 6c+ 19
260 Editorial Axe
-
E3 6a 1
261 Pitchfork Rebellion E5 6b/c 1
262 Gubia 7b+ ** 55
263 Rainy Day - Dream Away
-
E5 6b  
264 In from the Storm
-
E4 6b  
Climb name Grade
265 Bikini Amber 7a+ 48
266 A Day for Feet E2 6a 10
267 Look Around to See What to Look Up for E3 6a 3
268 No Grappling; No Ska 6a 13
269 The Great Dane and Other Tall Tales
-
S  
270 Micawberism
-
HVS 5a  
271 Cyclists Advised to Walk
-
E2 5c  
272 Avalon
-
VS 4c  
273 Sell Your Soul
-
E1 5a  
274 So This is Christmas
-
HS 5a  
275 Another Year Over
-
S 5a  
276 Mare's Nest
-
VD 3
277 The Grail
-
E2 5c  
278 Can-Can
-
VB 5b  
279 Danemark
-
HVS 5a 1
280 Groundrush
-
E4 6a  
281 Assassin!
-
E6 6b 1
282 Thriller
-
E3 5c 2
283 Psycho
-
E1 5b 3
284 Kay
-
VS 4c  
285 Slow Return
-
E2 5b  
286 First a Fence
-
E6 6b 1
287 Dead Stop
-
E5 6a/b  
288 Poisoned Ivy
-
E4 5c 1
289 Free Fall
-
E2 5b  
290 The Dimming of the Day
-
E2 5c 1
291 Peg Leg Crack
-
HS 4a 3
292 Mon Dieu
-
E3 5c  
293 Zut Alors!
-
VS 4c  
294 Elizabeth Route
-
D 10
295 North-West Arete
-
E3 6a  
296 Original Route
-
D 8
297 Mariette Route
-
VD 17
298 A Slice at the Wife
-
E1 5b  
299 Emily's Dog
-
VS 4b 2
300 Burial Route
-
D 11
  The Narrows
302 I Got One! 5c 203
303 Sound Your Horn 7a+ 66
304 Where The Sun Don't Shine 6b 206
305 Keep it in the Family 6a+ 221
306 Maiden Flight 6b+ * 142
307 Hill 62 5a 260
308 White Smoke 4a 351
309 That Hollow Feeling 6a+ * 60
310 Like Father Like Son 5a * 464
311 Drukpa Dzong 4c 250
312 Totally Elched 6b 157
313 Spoon Jar Jar Spoon 6a * 366
314 Rush Hour
-
6a 54
315 Fez
-
6a 208
  Arch Rock
317 Three Pounds Per Tonne 4a 492
318 Oh Pretty Woman! 5c 418
319 Lapse In Taste 5c 457
320 Mr Ripple
-
6a * 592
321 Big Budget Productions
-
6a * 508
322 Waiting for Gordito
-
E1 5b 22
323 Room With A View
-
6a+ * 459
324 Lady Cassidy 6a+ * 340
325 Galena Colada
-
6c * 264
326 Get Kimitri! E5 6a * 13
327 No Time to Lose 6b * 244
328 No Time at All
-
E5 6a 2
329 Snug as a Slug on a Jug 7a+ 101
330 Screwballed! 7a * 369
331 Keystone Cop-Out E4 5c 5
332 Playboys 7b+ * 157
333 All Hands to the Pump 7b * 342
334 Stone Town
-
6b+ * 403
335 Off the Wall 6b * 664
336 Breezes 6c 164
337 Cascara Crack
-
S 4a 111
338 Hug the Jug
-
5a 641
339 Don't Fear the Bleater
-
5c 664
340 Un-named Severe, Arch Rock S 6
341 As Happy as a Slug in Slime
-
E4 5c 12
342 Cross-Town Traffic 6c 8
  Stepped Wall
344 Mokee Dugway Backway 6c 105
345 Chilli Cheesedog
-
6a 462
346 Streamline
-
E1 5b 27
347 Where the Hell Is Hanksville 6c * 143
348 No Saanich in Salsa
-
6a+ 109
349 Stepped Wall
-
VD 261
350 Matanuska VS 4c 150
351 Little Hopper VS 4b * 243
352 Always Tomorrow 7b * 32
353 Tomorrow Never Dies E4 6b 2
354 Odds against Tomorrow E5 6a * 4
355 Cryogenics 7a+ ** 121
356 Bluepoint 7a+ * 106
357 Bullsblood 6c+ * 49
358 Decimation
-
7a+ 87
359 Subcutaneous Tissue
-
E2 5a 5
360 Little M
-
6b 247
361 Stepping Back 6c * 207
362 Roamertherapy
-
E2 5b 4
363 What 5a 159
364 Problem A
-
V0 * 21
365 Problem B
-
V0+ 5a * 22
366 Problem C
-
V1 5c * 14
367 Problem D
-
V0+ 5b * 19
368 Problem E
-
V0+ 5b * 18
  Overshoot Wall
370 Whose Line Is It Anyway? 7a * 288
371 Airborne Attack 6b+ * 303
372 Arcadia 5a 561
373 Lucifera VD 202
374 Mojave Dust 6a 452
375 Busking for bolts 4c 534
376 Think Again
-
4a 451
377 Eastender HVS 5a * 109
378 Comfortably Numb 7a+ 58
379 The Heavy Brigade
-
6b 261
380 Berlin Wall
-
6a+ 258
381 Groove Armada 6a * 414
382 The Only Fear Is a Flat Planet
-
6a+ * 303
383 There's Always An Angle
-
5c 329
384 Hairline
-
E1 5c 1
385 Absolutely Amazing Climb II E2 6a 1
386 The Unrelenting Wit of David Turnbull E4 6b 3
387 Death of Fridays
-
6a+ 25
388 problem F V3 6a 18
389 Problem G V2 5c/6a 15
390 Problem H V2 5c * 5
391 Prospect Gully D 1
392 Peregrines Picnic E1 5b 1
393 Nails vellard VS 4c 1
394 Thanks For A Lovely Girdle 6b 5
395 Leader of the pack 7c 2
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Action9