Valley of the blind. Lion Rock. Cheddar © TimC123
Sunshine until mid-afternoon (Pride Evans Cliff is to low down to see the sun in mid-winter). Mostly hard and steep climbing. Mixture of sport and trad.
Collection of small crags on the North side of the gorge near the village. Lion Rock, Pride Evans Cave, and The Remnant.
All feature mostly hard and steep climbing and a mixture of sport and trad.
Climbing is allowed year round on most cliffs on the North side though the access situation is sensitive, due to the high visibility of these crags and the risk of stones being dislodged.
Don't approach The Remnant from the car park directly below - follow the path from Lion Rock.
Avoid Prospect Tier and the bay to its right during summer.
Check online with the BMC regional access database.
The north side of the Gorge is predominantly owned by the National Trust and mapped as Open Access land under the CRoW Act. This gives a right of access for climbers to use these crags and a list of the north side crags where there is year round climbing access is available on the Cheddar Gorge access calendar, which is downloadable for free by clicking here: www.thebmc.co.uk/Download.aspx?id=807. Any north side crags not mentioned in the calendar list can only be accessed from 1st October – 15th March each year. The calendar has the definitive details of access dates for all crags whether on the north or south side, and should be considered required reading for any climber visiting the Gorge, regardless of where you plan to climb.
The latest guide to the Gorge - 'Cheddar Gorge Climbs' (M. Crocker, 2009) – has details of the more popular crags on the north side and definitive details of restored routes on the south side. It is available from The Gorge Outdoors shop in Cheddar village, as well as other climbing and outdoor shops in the area.
Reason: Nesting Birds
Dogs should be kept under control on a lead at any crags on the north side of the Gorge.
The National Trust have placed a 5 year moratorium (commencing Nov 2009) on placing new bolts on the N side of the gorge. See the full BMC news item here - www.thebmc.co.uk/News.aspx?id=3427
|Note that these climbs also appear under Arch Rock on UKC|
James Moyle - 14/Jun/09
|Cycled past this today (5th july) and theres been a big rockfall. Seems to have taken out a lot of the right hand side of the wall. Probably safest to leave the entire thing alone untill it gets cleaned up.|
remtherockclimber - 05/Jul/08