Climbs 25
Rocktype Sandstone (soft)
Altitude 100m a.s.l
Faces S

Mauchline winter adventure new climb © AlexanderBuglass

Crag features

A "Lost World" place with attitude! A tree lined gorge above the River Ayr with good rock including overhangs.

Approach notes

The whole area is an SSSI so do not damage the rock or the plants; "leave only footprints, take only photos [and memories]" as they say.

Take the A76 out of Mauchline and then the second right. If you see the blue bridge, you've gone too far.

Take this right to a wall (possibly an old bridge), parking here, take the path to the crags.

Guidebooks

Go in the winter! It can be muddy, but the icicles in the gorge are amazing and the friction is great.
scatface - 12/Feb/09
its gud but its 2 mucky!!!!!!!
alannah cee - 10/Apr/06
Great area to learn to climb but some care needed - much of the rock is mossy and the sandstone overhang by the river(which is a spectacular abseil - just over a rope length!)is pretty tough going on the fingertips.
john - 25/Oct/04
A big abseiling venue, Mauchline Gorge does not have much to offer the climber due to the filthy nature of the rock and routes. Good place to take a chick though.
Jonnie - 27/Sep/03
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Boulder Crag
2 Stinky Pinky V3 6
3 Stinky pinky dyno V1 5
4 Crack Jam V4 * 5
5 Stink Pocket V2 * 12
6 Morgan f6B * 2
7 Pump It V4 3
8 Trust in Ether V2 4
9 Up the Muff V3 ** 9
10 Shut up and dyno V3 ** 5
11 Dead Dog Dyno V4 2
12 Cup and Ring V ** 1
  Main Quarry
14 Bowman's Corner S 4a 3
15 Mossy Wall E2 5a 2
16 Purism Personified E2 5c 3
17 Gardener's Corner VS 4b * 12
18 Board Walk E2 5b 2
19 Y Bother E3 5c 11
20 Bye Eck E4 6a 1
21 Green Machine VS 4b 4
22 Dredge Bog VS 4b 2
23 Monstrously Horrible VD 1
24 Lightning Crack E2 6a 2
  River Buttress
26 Ayrheid
-
E2 5c 1
27 Bridge Over Troubled Water E4 5c * 3
28 Yew Tree Traverse f6C * 1

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