Climbs 4
Rocktype UNKNOWN
Altitude 3m a.s.l
Faces N
Crag features
Of the many awe-inspiring hidden lines on the Exmoor Coast, the routes here are some of the most accessible. The cliff lies immediately west of Wringcliff Bay, which is the bay west of the conical craggy hill of The Castle. A footpath runs down from the roundabout under The Castle to the bay. The routes are reached by a short walk westwards along the beach, low to mid tide. The multi-pitch climbs here exit onto the private grounds of Lee Abbey, a spiritual retreat. A conditional climbing access agreement has been reached with Lee Abbey, which must be adhered to by visiting climbers.
Approach notes
From the tops of the climbs at the cliff edge, walk diagonally up leftwards to the far left end of a fence. There is a stout post here to use to mount the fence without damaging it (a small set of wooden steps may be in place in future). Follow the fence-line which rises gently leftwards until the fence kinks and descends leftwards in the direction of Valley of Rocks. Do not turn left and traverse leftwards across fields here, but continue walking in the same line for 100 metres, along a path and then track, to a gated opening in another fence (gate often open). A fence-line now rises steeply up rightwards (in a south west direction): follow it for 200 metres to a kissing gate on the left (a metal-roofed cowshed is visible ahead). Go through the kissing gate and head across a small field, through a gate, and cross another small field (right of some tennis courts) to a kissing gate next to the entry road to the Lee Abbey car parking area.
Restricted Access
Conditions of Access for Climbing on Lee Cliff, Lee Abbey Estate:
1. The cliff forms part of an SSSI and no damage to its flora, fauna, or geology should be caused.
2. The cliff is a nesting-site for auks and birds of prey. Climbing must not take place between 1 April and 30 June.
3. Climbers must be in possession of valid civil liability insurance with cover up to £10 million. (This is included in membership of the BMC or Mountaineering Council of Scotland and can be obtained independantly.)
4. All climbers must, before climbing, report to Lee Abbey reception where they should sign the visitors’ book. If leaving a vehicle in Lee Abbey’s car park they must also supply their vehicle’s registration number.
5. Climbers must follow the way off from the cliff top described in detail below. This is the only permitted way off, which minimizes impact on the site including any disturbance to residents and visitors. On no account should anyone attempt to traverse from the way off eastwards towards the Valley of Rocks or climb over fences other than the single fence identified.
6. Climbers are welcome to park their cars at Lee Abbey car park when climbing on Lee Cliff, subject to spaces available. The approved way off the cliff-top takes you back to this car park.
7. Anyone climbing on Lee Abbey land does so entirely at their own risk, in line with the Participation Statement of the British Mountaineering Council.
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Climbs at this crag
| Name | Grade | Stars | Type | Logs | Partner Ascents |
|---|
These climbs you have climbed by seconding or top-roping.
These climbs you have Dogged.
These climbs you Did not Finish.
Climbs are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate. Climbs can't be verified by a crag moderator, and they need more information to confirm it. Climbs are no longer climbable.
Moderators Updates to this page are checked by a UKC volunteer Jim blackford