UKC

Climbs 400
Rocktype Granite
Altitude 23m a.s.l
Faces SW

JWB at Smoke Bluffs © JWB

Crag features

A collection of outcrops with a wide selection of short routes. Crags in this area are Parking Lot Area, Burgers and Fries, Smoke Bluff Wall Area, Neat and Cool, Penny Lane Area, Above Penny Lane, Loop Trail Crags. 

Parking Lot Area: crags to be found are Auntie Gravity, Boulder Gully, Supervalue, Lower Crag X, Runestone Wall, Upper Crag X, The Black Zawn, Crystall Wall, Lumberland. 

Burgers and Fries: Burgers and Fries Left, Burgers and Fries Right, Alexis Cliffs, High Cliff, Island in the Sky.  

Smoke Bluff Wall Area crags are Krack Rock, Upper Tier, Zombie Roof, Mosquito Area, Battered Balls. 

Penny Lane Area crags are Pixie Corner, Bughouse Heights, Penny Lane, Penny Lane Gully, Lunch Break Wall, Spiderfly

Above Penny Lane crags are Split Beaver, Pink Cliff, Fern Gully, Ronin's Corner, Elephant's Arse

Loop Trail Crags are Nubile Woman, Octupus' Garden, Skunk Hollow, Funarama, Cheap Mango Wall, Call It a Day, Tunnel Rock

Crags Fatty Bolger, Ferrer's Folly and The Zip are all on private property and in 2011 the landowner has closed this area to all recreational activities. 

Approach notes

Very well maintained trails to all the crag faces.

Parking Lot Area, 1 to 10 minutes approach

Burgers and Fries/Smoke Bluff Wall Area, 10 minutes approach

Neat and Cool, Penny Lane Area, 12 minutes approach

Above Penny Lane, 15 minutes approach

Loop Trail Crags, 15 to 30 minutes approach

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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Parking Lot Area
  Auntie Gravity
3 Don't Believe the Hype
-
5.11a 3
4 Auntie Gravity
-
5.10b * 1
5 Crag Rat
-
5.9 7
6 Silly Putty
-
5.11a *  
  Boulder Gully
8 Turbocharger
-
5.11c *** 5
9 Talking Holds
-
5.10a ** 15
10 Wallflower
-
5.8 1
11 Golden Mongrel
-
5.9 1
12 Stroll On
-
5.10c 1
13 Sideshow
-
5.10c  
  Supervalue Area
15 Supervalue
-
5.10c *** 28
16 Public Menace
-
5.12a  
17 Superbaked
-
5.11c 1
18 True love
-
5.11d 3
19 Picket Line
-
5.9 ** 22
20 Triage Arete
-
5.9 ** 12
21 Cold Comfort
-
5.9 *** 34
22 Lust
-
5.10d ** 6
23 Loose Lady
-
5.9 2
24 Blowzebella
-
5.10c  
25 Sensistol
-
5.10b  
  Lower Crag X
27 Piece of Pie
-
5.9  
28 Side Street
-
5.10c  
29 Baby Lizard
-
5.10a ** 6
30 Centre Street
-
5.10c *** 18
31 The Gloaming
-
5.10b * 3
32 Gord's Block
-
5.10d  
33 Retiring Joe
-
5.11b  
34 Easter Island
-
5.8 ** 41
35 Out to Easter
-
5.9 ** 11
36 Out To Lunge 5.10b 19
37 Payanoia
-
5.9 1
38 Grunt
-
5.9  
  Runestone Wall
40 Grani
-
5.8 * 1
41 Sigurd
-
5.3 ** 2
42 Runestone Pinnacle Left 5.8 ** 1
43 Runestone Pinnacle Right 5.8 ** 1
  Upper Crag X
45 Castle Creep
-
5.11b  
46 Up from Despair
-
5.10c  
47 Fingerlickin' Good
-
5.11a 1
48 Easy Does it
-
5.10c  
49 Cosmic Debris
-
5.12b  
50 Outer Mongolia
-
5.11c  
51 Virgin Stroll
-
5.10c **  
52 Sniffer
-
5.8  
53 Snorter
-
5.8  
  The Black Zawn
55 Token Brits Direct 5.10d *** 4
56 Perfidious Albion 5.10d ** 1
  Crystall Wall
  Lumberland
59 Netsky
-
5.10d * 2
60 The GMB
-
5.10a *** 11
61 Maple Cream 5.10d ** 1
62 Lumberland 5.10b *** 5
63 It's a Roller
-
5.10b * 4
64 Crowd Pleaser
-
5.8 ** 8
65 Erica
-
5.10b *** 5
66 Jade
-
5.10d ** 1
67 Check Mark
-
5.7 * 2
68 Kristen
-
5.8 * 4
69 One Shot Latte 5.8 ** 2
  Burgers and Fries Left
71 Foot in the Gravy
-
5.10d **  
72 Asshole of November
-
5.11b 2
73 Pink Panther
-
5.11c ** 2
74 Burgers and Fries 5.7 *** 87
75 Peaches and Cream
-
5.10b ** 9
76 Genetically Superior Neighbor
-
5.11a 1
77 Dusty Eyes
-
5.4 ** 48
78 Wisecrack
-
5.7 *** 79
79 Catch Me
-
5.10a ** 22
80 Catch Me Quicker 5.10b *** 50
81 Over Forty
-
5.11a * 3
82 Catch You 5.10c ** 4
83 Move It On Over
-
5.9 ** 35
84 Swan Song
-
5.11b 1
85 Short and Sweet
-
5.10a 1
86 Sweet and Sour
-
5.10c  
87 Three Cool Kats
-
5.6 1
  Burgers and Fries Right
89 Jammers Delight
-
5.7 * 14
90 Easy Breezy 5.7 1
91 Who Needs Bolts?
-
5.10a * 3
92 Who Needs Pro?
-
5.10b  
93 Predator
-
5.10c  
94 High Boltage Line
-
5.10a ** 19
95 French Leave
-
5.10b ** 5
96 Split Personality
-
5.7 12
97 Bilbo Baggins
-
5.9 31
98 Sour Grass
-
5.7 10
99 Frodo's First Step
-
5.6 10
100 Smeagol
-
5.8 * 3
101 Libya Sucks 5.7 ** 9
102 Nookie Monster 5.10a ** 5
  Alexis
104 The Alexis Cracks
-
5.7 * 7
105 White Streak 5.10c ** 3
106 All You Need Are Jugs
-
5.8 2
  High Cliff
108 Twenty Minute Workout
-
5.10b ** 8
109 Run Like a Thief 5.10b * 5
110 The Gift
-
5.6 * 1
  Island in the Sky
112 The Kip 5.7 ** 8
113 Fissureman's Friend
-
5.8 ** 4
114 Gang of Foreplay 5.10b 2
  Smoke Bluff Wall Area
  Krack Rock
117 Fairy Ring
-
5.6 * 4
118 Turkey Dinner
-
5.7 3
119 Lonely Thunder
-
5.9 2
120 Koko Crack
-
5.10a 6
121 popsickle
-
5.7 * 11
122 Pieces of Eight Left
-
5.7 2
123 Pieces of Eight Right
-
5.10c  
  Smoke Bluffs Wall - Upper Tier
125 Laughing Crack 5.7 *** 55
126 Resoler
-
5.12a 1
127 Sweet Pea
-
M  
  Smoke Bluffs Wall - Zombie Roof
129 Zombie Roof 5.13a ***  
130 Old Age
-
5.9 *** 9
131 Jacob's Ladder
-
5.12b ** 1
  Smoke Bluffs Wall - Mosquito Area
133 S-M's Delight 5.10b *** 25
134 Mosquito
-
5.8 *** 78
135 The Smoke Bluff Connection 5.10a *** 37
136 No See Um 5.9 * 4
Climb name Grade
137 Sphinx'ter Quits
-
5.8 ** 19
138 Seam of Destiny 5.10b *** 10
139 Mr. Black 5.9 * 4
140 Curry The Dog 5.8 * 4
141 Phlegmish Dance
-
5.8 *** 46
142 Alien Sex Fiends 5 ** 1
  Battered Ballls
  Neat and Cool
145 Pink Flamingo
-
5.10b ** 7
146 Raging Duck
-
5.10b * 1
147 Repeat When Necessary
-
5.9 * 3
148 Stumps
-
5.8 ** 24
149 Sally Five Fingers
-
5.8 ** 35
150 Treebeard
-
5.7 * 7
151 The Jigsaw Flow
-
5.9 * 3
152 Cat Crack
-
5.7 *** 64
153 Mousetrap 5.7 *** 28
154 The Edge 5.10a ** 3
155 Corner Crack
-
5.7 ** 38
156 Flying Circus
-
5.10a ** 73
157 Lieback Flake 5.9 ** 20
158 Cornflakes
-
5.7 ** 67
159 Neat and Cool 5.10a *** 71
160 Gross Incompetance
-
5.9 *** 4
161 House Music
-
5.10c * 1
162 Geritol
-
5.10c ** 18
163 Kangaroo Corner 5.11a *** 27
164 Clean Starts 5.7 12
165 Twisted 5.10c 2
166 Neat and Clean
-
5.7 * 12
  Pixie Corner
168 Wonderland
-
5.9 *** 26
169 White Rabbit 5.10b ** 8
170 Turley's Terror
-
5.7 5
171 Joe's Crack
-
5.9 ** 12
172 Davy Jones' Locker
-
5.7 ** 29
173 Pixie Corner 5.8 *** 52
174 Trixie
-
5.10b * 16
  Bughouse Heights
176 Skullduggery 5.10a * 1
177 Fata Morgana
-
5.8 * 8
178 Unreality
-
5.10c ** 1
179 Too Brown to Frown * 5.11b * 1
  Penny Lane
181 Mirage
-
5.11a **  
182 Clandestine Affair
-
5.9 *** 22
183 Clandestine Affair Direct Start
-
5.10d 5
184 The Yorkshire Gripper 5.11b *** 16
185 Popeye and the Raven 5.10d *** 43
186 Quarryman
-
5.8 *** 83
187 Quarryman Direct Finish
-
5.10b ** 9
188 Health Hazard
-
5.10a ** 15
189 Short People
-
5.11a ** 1
190 Up, Up and Away
-
5.9 ** 31
191 Witch Doctor's Apprentice
-
5.9 * 12
192 Power Windows
-
5.11a ** 3
193 Crime of the Century 5.11c *** 32
194 Penny Lane
-
5.9 *** 113
195 Climb and Punishment
-
5.10d *** 34
196 Partners in Crime
-
5.11a *** 21
197 The Ugly American 5.10b * 6
198 Just for Howie
-
5.8 1
199 Werewolves of London 5.11a *** 12
  Penny Lane Gully
201 The Great Unknown
-
5.12a ****  
202 Primary Perception
-
5.13c ****  
203 Under the Greenwood Tree
-
5.10d **  
204 Hangover
-
5.10d **  
205 Girth
-
5.12b ***  
  Lunch Break Wall
207 Bernie
-
5.6 **  
208 Forty-two
-
5.10b **  
209 Pregnant Paws
-
5.11d **  
210 Squirt
-
5.10b ***  
  Spiderfly
212 Spiderfly 5.12a ***  
213 Something Short
-
5.10d **  
  Above Penny Lane
  Split Beaver
216 Sportive Tricks
-
5.10b **  
217 Aquaductus
-
5.10b *  
218 Proximus
-
5.11b **  
219 Heavenly Ladder
-
5.9 * 5
220 Orifice Fish
-
5.9 ** 5
221 Split Beaver
-
5.10b *** 11
222 Organ Failure
-
5.11c *  
223 Y Not
-
5.10c **  
224 The What Doctor
-
5.10c **  
225 Salal Jam 5.8 ** 5
226 Asleep At The Wheel 5.8 5
227 Poorly Groomed
-
5.11b *** 1
228 My Very Own Fault
-
5.7 *  
229 Crimson Crack
-
5.10b **  
230 Silhouette Arete
-
5.10d **  
  Pink Cliff
232 Fidget with Your Digits 5.10b *  
233 Bolt It and They Will Come 5.10c **  
234 People of Size 5.6 ** 3
235 Vertically Challenged
-
5.9 ** 1
236 Gender Neutral 5.10d ** 1
237 Pat on the Back 5.10a **  
238 Environmentally Friendly 5.7 * 3
239 Fingernipper
-
5.10d **  
240 Fist Job
-
5.10b ** 1
241 Wankulator
-
5.10d ** 1
242 Deception
-
5.10a **  
243 Slotty Little Bastard
-
5.11b *  
  Fern Gully
245 Dog-Legging
-
5.8 * 7
246 Fern Gully
-
5.4 ** 15
247 Tools of Moss Destruction
-
5.11b ***  
248 The Space Between
-
5.11d ***  
249 Rampage
-
5.9 * 9
250 Christa's Revenge
-
5.7 ** 5
251 Hexxus's Red X's
-
5.7 *  
  Ronin's Corner
253 Astral Travels
-
5.8 * 1
254 Platform Corner
-
5.8 3
255 The Inbetweener 5.10d ** 2
256 Ridge Runner
-
5.9 *** 10
257 Wobbler
-
5.10b * 5
258 Desperado
-
5.10c * 3
259 Magical Child
-
5.8 ** 14
260 Skydancing
-
5.10c *** 6
261 MCM
-
5.6 * 20
262 Sammy's Frog
-
5.10c *** 4
  Elephant's Arse
264 Elephant's Arse Crack
-
5.10c * 2
265 Elephantiasis 5.10c *** 4
266 The Roark Building
-
5.12c ***  
267 Senate Seat
-
5.12a ***  
268 Terminator Two
-
5.10a ***  
  Loop Trail Crags
  Nubile Woman
271 Nubile Woman 5.10a * 8
272 Old Maid
-
5.10a * 2
Climb name Grade
  Octopus' Garden
274 Coronary Bypass 5.10a ** 4
275 Unearthly Delights 5.9 *** 23
276 Root Canal 5.8 * 9
277 Monkey Quotient
-
5.9 * 7
278 Pipe Dream 5.8 * 17
279 Octopus' Garden in the Shade 5.8 *** 60
280 Leonissisation 5.12a ** 2
281 Edible Panties
-
5.7 ** 30
282 Call Any Vegetable
-
5.8 * 6
283 Harry's Crack
-
5.8 ** 5
284 Just for Elise
-
5.10d **  
  Skunk Hollow
286 Ryan's Crack
-
5.12b **  
287 Meet the Clampetts
-
5.10c ***  
288 Little Barron
-
5.11d **  
289 Short and Sweet
-
5.11d **  
290 Middle Crisis 5.12a ***  
291 Don't Touch Me, Tomato
-
5.12b ***  
  Funarama
293 First Class
-
5.9 *** 20
294 Working Class 5.11c * 1
295 Squatter's Rights
-
5.7 *** 16
296 Smallpox 5.10d * 1
297 Funtastic
-
5.7 * 2
298 Fun
-
5.9 * 2
299 Ethan's Crack
-
5.6 * 3
300 Funky
-
5.7 * 2
301 September Song
-
5.10c ** 2
302 Sweet Songster
-
5.10d ** 2
303 Point Blank
-
5.9 ** 3
304 Funarama
-
5.9 ** 7
305 Funarampa
-
5.8 * 1
306 Crouching Squirrel
-
5.5 ** 4
307 Cheeze The Cat
-
5.6 ** 4
308 Things to do when it Rains
-
5.4 * 6
309 The Hopper
-
5.7 * 1
310 The French Maid
-
5.4 ** 5
  Cheap Mango Wall
312 Redug
-
5.9 **  
313 Salal Sodomy
-
5.7 **  
  Call It A Day
315 Chopper Malone
-
5.6 * 3
316 Clean Streak
-
5.6 ** 8
317 Ramp-o-rama
-
5.6 * 4
318 Buster
-
5.7 ** 6
319 Pee Wee
-
5.7 * 2
  Tunnel Rock
321 The Constant Gardener
-
5.8 ** 4
322 Easy Skankin'
-
5.9 ** 1
323 Easy Skankin' (variation) 5.10c ** 1
324 Sunstroker 5.10a ** 4
325 The Master Gleaner
-
5.7 * 1
326 Go For Broke * 5.10b 1
  Climbs of UNKNOWN AREAS
328 Electric Ball
-
5.11b *** 8
329 Crab Cracks 5.8 * 1
330 Deception 5.10a * 2
  Cabin Boy's Office
332 Zigidy Zags
-
5.10a 2
333 The Lumpy Way
-
5.10b 2
334 Way of the Wife
-
5.10b 1
335 Peaceful Warrior
-
5.9 1
336 Dugh!
-
5.8 2
337 Cabin Boys
-
5.10d  
338 Chop Chop 5.11c  
339 Irie Ites Man
-
5.10a  
340 Chansaw Massacre
-
5.10d  
341 Wet Dream
-
5.10a  
342 Eagle Claw Technique
-
5.12d  
343 The Truck Stop 5.6 ** 2
344 Birthday Boy 5.7 *  
345 Fist Job
-
5.10b ** 3
346 Splat
-
5.10d * 3
347 Fred Snails
-
5.11a * 3
348 Introitus 5.10c 1
349 Coffee Time 5.9 * 1
350 Too Pink to Think 5.11b 1
351 Green Chimney 5.8 1
352 Red Nails
-
5.11d *** 1
353 Monkey Song 5.10b 1
354 X-Ray
-
5.1  
355 Sunny November
-
5.9 1
356 Friction Addiction
-
5.10b  
357 Bucky Ki-yea
-
5.10c  
358 Frying Brownies
-
5.10a 3
359 Casey
-
5.10a  
360 Mr Dressup
-
5.8 4
361 Councillors Groove
-
5.7 3
362 Prey
-
5.5 7
363 Exit Stage Left
-
5.6 * 7
364 Gollum 5.7 12
365 Unknown 5.5 * 1
366 So nice I did her twice 5.9 2
367 Hornets Delight
-
5.10b  
368 UNKNOWN1 WI-2 1
369 Senile Saunter
-
5.10c  
370 Outrage
-
5.10d  
371 Indignation 5.11a  
372 Long Distance Feeling
-
5.11a  
373 Sparky's Crack
-
5.8  
374 Goobledegook
-
5.8  
375 Jabberwocky
-
5.10a *** 28
376 Coffee Break 5.8 * 1
377 Clean Starts Variation 5.9 ** 9
378 UNKNOWN WI-2 * 1
379 Sparkletoast
-
5.7 2
380 Finger, Hand and Fist
-
5.9 *** 3
  One Toque Wall
  Jug Slab
383 David's
-
5.6 * 15
384 Stepladder 5.7 18
385 Moominland 5.9 16
386 Hamish's
-
5.6 12
387 Robin's Route
-
5.10c **  
  Fatty Bolger
389 Rumours
-
5.10a ** 1
390 Where's Roxie
-
5.11a **  
391 Bumper
-
5.11c **  
392 Fatty Bolger
-
5.11a ***  
393 The Leading Edge
-
5.11a **  
394 Beached Whale
-
5.10c  
  Ferret's Folly
396 Cold Metal 5.11a 1
397 Earth Trip 5.6 12
398 Ferrets Folly
-
5.7 9
399 Green and Black
-
5.9 * 3
400 Right On Jennejohn 5.10a 6
  The Zip
402 Gaia
-
5.12b ***  
403 The Zip 5.10a *** 38
404 Sole Proprietorship
-
5.11a ** 2
405 Crystal Ball 5.10b 7
406 Noonday Ridge 5.10b ** 1
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer conorjclarke