Climbs 34
Rocktype Quartzite
Altitude 27m a.s.l
Faces all
Crag features
Located within the historic and bustling town of Wexford and discovered by Stephen Young only minutes after disembarking from the Rosslare ferry on his first visit to Ireland, this crag lay undisturbed until the newly-formed and now defunct Raparee Climbing Club, prompted by Jim Leonard, decided to develop it in the mid-to-late seventies.
Although not a large crag, its location, in the Sunny Southeast, lying just in from the coast and away from the hills, means it may often be in condition when the mountain crags are out of the loop. This makes it a valuable asset, not just to local climbers, but to Dublin based trad climbers too, as the roads to Wexford have been greatly improved over recent years.
Recently Wexford Hillwalking club have started weekly Summer Meets at the crag, and through their hard work some of the more overgrown routes have emerged. There may be opportunities for further routes here, particularly in the higher grades and there is also potential for bouldering in the area.
The rock is impure quartzite, many of the routes tackle bulges or overhangs, and friends may be useful for protection.
Approach notes
If disembarking from the Rosslare ferry it is a short spin in towards Wexford town where the crag will be seen on the left. From Dublin, follow the M11/N11 to the Wexford.
There are three ways to access the crag;
Approach from the Mulgannon Road; Continue along the quays turning right at the first set of traffic lights just before the Talbot hotel. At the traffic lights near Tesco go left, then right keep going straight through the roundabout and up the hill until there's an electric station on your right (note this is NOT the eircom tower by the roundabout) take the next left down a country lane. Park tight to the hedge on the right hand side. Climb the gate near the ruined wall/barn and head SE through
Approach from Tesco's Lane; Continue along the quays turning right at the first set of traffic lights just before the Talbot hotel. At the traffic lights near Tesco go left, then fork right. Pull in on the left in front of the big gates. Walk up the lane. Once you are in the park head in the rough direction of the crag and try not to get lost in the welcoming gorse maze.
Approach from the Kerlogue Road; Follow along the quays and out of Wexford towards Rosslare. A grotto dedicated to the Virgin Mary is seen on the right with the crag a short distance behind, and is easily recognizable from the road. Drive till there is a field on your right, park near the gate, cross the field and find a path to the base of the crag.
Access Advice
Although access was an issue the the past any issues seem to have been resolved. In 2014 the fields around the crag on the Mulgannon Road approach were planted with eucalptus trees, this doesn't seem to have affected access.
Due to the past access issues visitors are asked to use common sense when parking and enquire with locals if they are unsure of any approach.
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Climbs at this crag
| Name | Grade | Stars | Type | Logs | Partner Ascents |
|---|
These climbs you have climbed by seconding or top-roping.
These climbs you have Dogged.
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