Climbs 138
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 378m a.s.l
Faces E

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Bridget Collier heading up the steep flowstone on Pwll Du Crack (5c) on the Main Wall at Gilwern © Mark Glaister

Crag features

Gilwern is an old limestone quarry working, set high up on the edge of moorland overlooking the Black Mountains to the north. The quarries are not very high but have some good little patches that are well bolted and very popular. The grades span the 5s and 6s, the highlight being the lines on Gilwern Main Wall's covering of flowstone and the compact technicalities on offer at Gilwern East. The quarries are both exposed to wind and rain, but are good spots in warm weather, having pleasant bases and expansive outlooks over the Usk valley and the Black Mountains.

Gilwern Lower 01/06/19 update - Its Been  GoodYear  6b+  - reported 1 metre square loose block in the upper part of this route is dangerous/best avoided. Agreeed by a 3rd party climber. Next 02/06/19 update  Brian BPM Has checked and cleaned this loose flake/block(?). To reach the satisfactory anchor across the rock scar is awkward and 6c/6c+ (possible new grade for the route ?). Bolting is out of line and bolts should be checked with a visual check for the rock scar which will probably be loose. Be Cautious in and around this route and inspect it fully to ensure your safety. 

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Guidebooks

South Wales Sport Climbs

South Wales Sport Climbs covers the area to the south of the Brecon Beacons, spanning the land and sea cliffs from the River Wye on the Welsh border to Pembrokeshire in the west. The area is home to a wealth of sport climbing on a multitude of venues ranging from small inland quarries to extensive limestone sea cliffs.
More info
More Guidebooks:
bolts removed from Half Pipe Dream 6c*** and Sidewinder 6b+*** !!! A real shame, presumably due to trad/sport arguments...
badgerjockey - 09/Jun/19
A bit of a mixed bag. The rock is fairly brittle in places but certainly enough good routes to make the place well worth a visit. "Walls have ears" is really good
guy xavier percival - 20/Sep/17
Great crag, thanks to everyone who has put in bolts and climbed lines, even though it is congested it is great.
stevethomas - 10/Aug/17
Dead sheep under the left wing of this crag, which is just starting to decay. Smells pretty bad :(
bpmclimb - 01/Apr/17
Great little crag in an idyllic setting
Paul Robertson - 17/Aug/16
Great crag in a stunning location. The rock is generally excellent and the routes on the whole are well bolted. Good on hot sunny days as it faces east.
guy xavier percival - 17/Aug/16
New bolt put in just after this post
Paul Bowen - 04/Oct/14
Currently the route, Christian broke my flake 6a+ on the main wall has a very dodgy 3rd bolt that is close to falling out and is best avoided.
Jamie Skelton - 07/Jun/14
Does anyone know if it is possible to set up top- or bottom-roping at Crag X Gilwern Hill? Me and a friend are just starting climbing outdoors and have not learned to lead yet. Thank you.
marcjospeh - 07/May/14
See picture/topo in picture section
Levi - 10/Jun/12
There appears to be 2 new routes added to an isolated butress somewhere near the main wall, please add the details to the route list whoever equipped them. thanks Paul
Paul Bowen - 22/Apr/12
Amazing to think that I used to be able to see this crag from my office window! And then moved about 6 months before the routes went up! Really great place to climb - loved it.
Tom Hutton - 18/Jul/10
Had a look at this site today as I was up for a wedding. Started on Jug Fest just as the heavens opened! It got very wet v quickly so sadly packed up and trudged back to the car but loved the location and the work that's gone into setting up the climbs. Brilliant. Can't wait to come back.
vsheriff - 19/Jul/09
Another great day out at a Paul Bowen creation. Very windy. Looking forward to returning to get the b*!!&tard 6b which I bailed on. Thank you Paul, it's much appreciated.
gramee - 09/Jul/09
Just had a great morning on this great new valleys crag. Still a few snappy holds here and there but far less than I was expecting to be honest. Big thanks to Paul Bowen, Paul Tucker and others for all their efforts.
richtea21 - 10/May/08
Thanks for all your work Paul. Really enjoyed the new routes in glorious sun last w/end. cheers
benjaminhills - 15/Feb/08
Much respect and appreciation for all the hard work work put in to make this old quarry a top spot - whatever the weather... Nice one Paul...
pinnochio - 03/Feb/08
Well worth a visit. Generally sound rock and technical routes.
DafSWMC - 07/Oct/07
have just added 7 more routes to the short wall 250mts before the main crag, will be updating later with all the info on grades/descriptions photo topo etc.
Paul Bowen - 08/Sep/07
Visited while in the area. Nice climbing, especially the central main section with some lovely flowstone pipes. The rock does need to clean up a little. Grades seemed about right. Cheers!
richardr - 02/Jul/07
very good place to climb in the afternoon been a few times go at least once a week injoy it very much progressing up to climb the 6+ now..........
Tunell - 05/Jun/07
just been updating the route descriptions, hope it makes things better, still have to name most of the routes, it's not that easy..
Paul Bowen - 31/May/07
just submitted photo topo of short wall 250 mts before main crag should be online in a day or so
Paul Bowen - 23/May/07
Have done photo topos for main wall and right wall still to do topo for short wall 250mts before main crag... grades are roughly.. 6b 6c 7a 6a from l-r as you look at the wall
Paul Bowen - 08/May/07
Paul - can you send details when you've done? Cheers Goi
goi.ashmore - 07/May/07
I do intend to get a photo topo done with all routes listed and graded very soon.
Paul Bowen - 21/Apr/07
did my first outdoor climb today, the small walls were shit loads of fun, looking forward to progressing onto the big one!!
rich232 - 20/Apr/07
all fixed gear now replaced, and a new route added far left side at 4+/5..... 2nd april 2007
Paul Bowen - 02/Apr/07
somebody has stolen a substantial amount of the fixed gear, will endeavour to replace it asap.. bast@rds Paul Bowen
Paul Bowen - 30/Mar/07
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Gilwern East
2 #1(new) 6a+ 4
3 Bring out the Crimp 6a+ 57
4 All the Pies ArĂȘte 6b+ * 37
5 Cheapskate 6b+ 14
6 Black Night's Rein 6a ** 155
7 Black Night's Rein Direct Start 6b * 25
8 The Slytherin (Easy Version)
-
6c 6
9 The Slytherin 7a 18
10 Microwaves 6c * 36
11 Fergie's Folly 6b ** 85
12 Thorn in my Side E2 2
13 Quakering 6c 16
14 Mr Softy 6a+ * 121
15 Pearlescence 6b+ 23
16 Tallulah Dream 6b+ * 28
17 In the Groove 6c 17
18 One Step Beyond 6b 17
19 Reach for a Peach 6b+ 6
20 What's the Craic E2 1
21 Petering Out 6b * 38
22 The Golden Tower 6c * 36
23 Half Pipe Dream 6c *** 68
24 Magic Carpet 6b ** 83
25 Original Start (Life on Planet Earth) 6c ** 22
26 Life on Planet Earth 6b+ 10
27 The Plumb 5b ** 191
28 Asteroids 5a * 163
29 Scorpion 6a+ 49
30 Thug Life 6c * 7
31 Garden of Eden 6a+ * 65
32 Superposition 7a * 25
33 Sidewinder 6b+ *** 92
34 Firepower 7a+ 33
35 Crackatoa E2 1
36 Talking Hands 6b+ * 27
37 Hand in Pocket 6b * 56
38 Inch Pinch 6b+ * 28
39 The Imp 7b * 37
40 Dolphin Snoggin' 6a * 106
41 Periscope HVS 1
42 Left to Right Traverse V3 *  
  Gilwern Upper Tyla
44 Tyla Death Us Do Party E2 5c  
  Topdeckio
46 Rooter VD 1
47 Human VD 1
48 Leaf-eater S 4a 1
49 Shouter VD 1
Climb name Grade
50 Warmaker E3 5b 1
51 Planter HS 4a 2
52 Glass S 4a 2
53 Mandachuva VS 4b 2
  Pear Buttress
55 Geneva Spur HS 4a 1
56 Wayne Fell in Do Do 4a 90
57 Jetison Bilge 5a 68
58 Fruitless Pair 6b+ 35
59 La Poire 6b 51
60 Posh and Becs 6c 23
61 Apples and Pairs 6a 56
  Main Wall
63 Jug Fest 4b * 341
64 Black Tide 5b 78
65 Porcellena 5c 49
66 Destination Brynmawr 6a 146
67 Tea Leaves 6b ** 163
68 Battle of the Bulge 6c * 122
69 Nose Job 6c+ * 21
70 Flow Job 6b ** 179
71 Christian Broke my Flake 6a+ ** 265
72 Diagnosis Made Easy 6c+ * 75
73 Pwll Du Crack 5c * 274
74 Go with the Flow 6a * 224
75 There's No Business Like Flow Business 5c * 272
76 Gilwern Traverse V1 7
77 The Brexit Legacy 6a 66
78 Should I Stay 6c 14
79 Article 50 6c+ 10
80 Should I Go 6b+ 12
81 Sailing to Freedom 5c 37
82 Whatever Floats Your Boat 6a 195
83 A Paddock Full of Ponies 5c 240
84 On White Horses 5a 74
85 Crack Me Up 4a 348
86 All Aboard My Dingy 4c 277
87 Rounding the Mark 5b 61
  The lookout Conning Tower
89 #1(new) E1 5b 1
90 Too Hoot To Who E3 6a * 1
  Hindu Kush Area
92 Health Freak 5b 13
93 Cod Liver Oil 6b * 108
94 Glucosamine & Chondroitin 6c ** 92
95 Green Energy 7a+ * 3
96 Fuelled by Pies 7a+ * 57
97 Johnny Takes a Tumble 6a * 155
98 The House that Jack Built 6a * 16
Climb name Grade
99 Snap Crackle 'n' Pop 6a * 142
100 White Noise 5a * 194
101 The Road to Nowhere 5a 37
102 Back, Crack and Sack 5a * 243
103 Take me up the Hindu Kush 5c * 182
104 To Dai or not to Dai 5c * 181
105 Brittle Biscuit 4c * 248
106 Tad 5a 37
107 Smidgen 5b 27
108 Scintilla 5c * 22
109 Under a Blood Red Sky 5c * 201
110 The Event Horizon 6a * 31
  Gilwern Lower
112 Khyber Pass Traverse 6a 1
113 Coming Unstuck 6b 3
114 I'm Stuck,I'm Off.
-
6b 3
115 Stig of the Dump
-
6a 3
116 Stickle Brick
-
5c 7
117 Stick it up 'em
-
6a 5
118 Stick it to 'em
-
6a+ 6
119 Evostick
-
4b 5
120 Don't worry be snappy 6c+ * 1
121 Rubber Blubber
-
6c 2
122 Tyre and Brimstone
-
6a 3
123 Funeral Tyre
-
6a+ 5
124 Tyred Out
-
6b 7
125 Retyred
-
5b 10
126 Too Tyred?
-
6b 10
127 Walls Have Ears 7a 11
128 Pirelli Times
-
7b+ 1
129 William James Memorial Route
-
7b+ 2
130 Dim Tipio Anghyfreithlon 7b * 1
131 It's been a Goodyear
-
6b+ 3
132 Dunlop Special
-
6b 6
133 Retread
-
6b 4
134 Remoulded
-
6c 5
135 Tyre Times
-
6c 2
136 Locking nut
-
6c+ 2
137 Onto the Canvas
-
5b 2
138 Bald patch
-
5b 2
139 Mal Alignment
-
5b 4
140 Get tracking
-
6a 6
141 Wear and Tear
-
6a 4
142 Wheel and Tyre
-
6a 4
143 Rimmed 5c *** 4
144 Torque Wrench 5c 5
 

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