Climbs 18
Rocktype Basalt
Altitude 172m a.s.l
Faces E

Crag features

Everything can be found here:

The crag is basalt and is generally firm and well weathered. Although small, 12M high and 60m long, it provides a good number of routes. There are a series of bolts at the top of the crag for anchors, replacing the older (rusty) pitons. It is believed that these are used for training purposes by the local emergency services.

A low level traverse has been done on the main crag at about 5c/6a. Other isolated outcrops on the hill provide limited opportunities for bouldering. One of the best of these is a smooth 4m high buttress above and right of the leftmost of the string of broken buttresses seen slanting across the hill from right to left when approaching the main crag. This buttress has an undercut crack at 4c and a leaning corner at 5a.

Approach notes

Approach: From Limerick city follow the N24 Waterford road for 6.5 miles to a right turn for Mitchelstown. Follow this for 1.5 miles to the outskirts of Caherconlish and turn right at the crossroads for Ballyneety. Continue on this road for 1.5 miles to a left fork at Mollys Bar. This leads in 0.5 miles to a second left fork. Follow this for a further 0.5 miles passing a large dirty crag on the left, and immediately after passing this, the crag is?visible at the top of the hill on the left. Limited parking is available at this point (See Access). The crag is approached by a direct walk up from the road.

Access Advice

Access: As of April 2008, there seem to be some very wary locals around, and you are likely to get a note left on your car with a warning about trespassing if you park anywhere along this road. Hopefully we will be able to contact the landowner and assure him that we are not looking to erect mobile phone masts or the like.


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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
1 Smear VS 4c 1
2 Piseog VS 5a ** 3
3 Mollys Bar VD 1
4 Full Circle E2 5c  
5 Shacks HS 4b  
6 Eliminator HS 4b  
7 Galloping Maggot HS 4b  
Climb name Grade
8 Lauras Ledge E1 5b 2
9 Central Chimney D  
10 Blank Looks HS 4c  
11 Inspiration VS 5a 1
12 Bookcase VD  
13 Woodbine MS  
14 Alfredo MS  
Climb name Grade
15 Crater VS 4c  
17 Ivy Tower VS 5a  
18 Siamese Chimneys M  
19 Hanging Gardens S  
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We rely on volunteers to moderate their local crags. You would check updates and approve climbs added to the database. It's a very easy job, and all you need is a guidebook and an hour or two each month. [ read more ]