Climbs 113
Rocktype Greywacke

Faces SE

End of a good winters day. Robbie Miller rappelling down Limestone Blues Cliff Meikle Ross, Galloway, Scotland © Matt crawford

Crag features

8 cliff areas within an 800 metre stretch of coastline give adventurous climbing mostly in the middle grades. Variable rock quality in places, care to be taken at the top of routes especially.

Some of the best climbing is concentrated in Little Zawn where the rock is particularly solid. Mellow Yellow, Pinking Shear and Bloody Crack are all very good. Other good routes include Side Track, Curving Arete, Rez Route, Mental Block and K.9. If you are feeling particularly strong, Corridors of Power (E3 5c) give good steep climbing on surprisingly solid rock and Sunshine Superman (E4 6a) give a good fight through slabs and overlaps.

Approach notes

Avoid Limehouse Blues Cliff between May to August due to nesting birds, other cliffs relatively bird-free.

Guidebooks

Great crag - quite easy to get to climbs.
Tom Phillips - 28/Jul/16
A fantastic suntrap for end of year climbing In a fantastic position. Rock quality in Little Zawn was actually very good. Walk in through the Cattle - might not want to wear your new trainers!
Stevie989 - 06/Nov/14
Climbed there many years ago one chilly Easter Sunday, in shirtsleeves. It can be a suntrap during the cooler months. Did Limehouse Blues, Galloway Corner, Crack & Corner and Salty Dog - all of which were worthwhile.
Lord of Starkness - 17/Apr/08
If you have to climb one route on Meikle Ross, Mellow Yellow, VS 4c is the one........Fantastic!
Ken MacMillan - 15/Dec/03
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Fox Craig
2 Promontory Wall
-
S 4a  
3 Corridors of Power E3 5c ** 4
4 Ken's Groove
-
VS 4b 1
5 Crack and Corner
-
VS 4b * 19
6 Dolphin Groove
-
HVS 4c  
7 Curving Arete
-
S 4a ** 31
8 Fats Waller E1 5b * 5
9 Greywackattack VS 4c 1
10 Left Arete HS 4b ** 10
11 Rez Route HS ** 30
12 Alligator Crawl
-
HVS 5a * 22
13 Twin Cracks S 4a ** 18
14 Sharks Tooth VD 10
  Crow's Nest Cliff
16 The Battle of Osfrontalis HVS 5a  
  Crab Slab
18 The Arete
-
M 1
19 Little Fishy
-
D 2
20 Crab Eyes
-
HS 4a * 3
21 Tropic of Cancer
-
S 4a * 5
22 Mutant Slater
-
HS 4a * 5
23 Crabbit Auld Man
-
S 4a * 5
24 Arthropomorphic
-
VS 4b ** 4
25 The Sinking of HMS Screwgate
-
VD 2
26 Winkle Up
-
VD  
27 Landsickness
-
VS 4c * 4
  Limehouse Blues
29 Exit Groove D 3
30 Ancient Mariner E2 5b *  
31 Meikle Gorbachov VS 4c  
32 Pigeon Chimney
-
D  
33 Groovey
-
VD  
34 Compulsion
-
E1 5b  
35 Zugsfang
-
E2 5c 1
36 White Out
-
S 4a  
37 Seadog HVS 5a *  
38 Argus E1 5b *  
39 Dogleg
-
HVS 5a ** 8
40 Akela
-
HVS 5a  
41 Salty Dog
-
HVS 4c ** 7
42 Accutrac
-
HVS 5a  
43 Sorcerer's Apprentice VS 4b * 3
44 Finesse E1 5b **  
45 Limpet Arete
-
VD  
46 Limehouse Blues
-
HVS 4b, 5a * 3
47 Blue Finger VS 4c  
48 Crack Track
-
HVS 5a *  
49 Maple Leaf Rag
-
HVS 5a, 5a * 1
50 Spectacular Bid E6 6b **  
51 Crack Track/Maple Leaf Rag Combination
-
HVS 5a * 1
52 Galloway Corner
-
HVS 5a * 9
53 Side Track HVS 5a ** 4
54 Back Track E1 5a  
55 Rhythm 'n' Blues
-
HVS 5a, 5a **  
  Little Zawn
57 Steve's Route
-
VS 4b 2
58 Spectrum Wall
-
E1 5b  
59 Orange Chimney
-
VD * 15
60 Green Wall
-
HS 4b ** 60
61 Clockwork Orange
-
VD * 42
62 Pinking Shear
-
HVS 5a *** 70
63 Mellow Yellow
-
VS 4c *** 123
64 Sunshine Superman E4 6a * 3
65 Stepped Corner HS 4b 16
66 Bloody Arete E4 5c ** 1
67 Bloody Crack E1 5b *** 60
68 Fil d'Or E3 6a * 2
69 Amnesia VS 4c  
70 Headcase VS 4c 1
71 A Walk on the Wild Side E1 5b **  
  Red Slab
73 Chairman's Crack
-
S 1
74 Scared to Dance
-
E1 5b ** 22
75 Dolce Vita
-
HVS 5a 1
76 Born to Boogie
-
E1 5a  
77 Shake, Rattle and Roll
-
E1 5a  
78 Grand Central Couloir
-
VS 4c  
79 Cairn's Cream VS 4c * 13
80 Bad Medicine Waltz
-
HVS 5a * 12
81 Mental Block
-
VS 4c *** 78
82 Demolition Tango
-
VS 4c ** 36
83 Wizard of Oz
-
HS 4b * 53
84 Tinman S 4a 29
85 Coffin Crack
-
S 4a 33
86 Dinner Meat
-
VD 7
87 Access Ridge
-
VD 9
88 Fiona's Folly
-
S  
  Deep Zawn
90 Access Traverse (To Deep Zawn) VD 8
91 K.9.
-
HVS 4b, 5a **  
92 Rift Route S 4a ** 8
93 Eminence Grise
-
HS 4b * 1
94 A Sop for Cerebrus
-
HS 4b  
95 Yellow Dog
-
HVS 4c  
96 Dogwalk
-
D  
97 Avernal Buttress
-
VD  
  Dry Zawn
99 Route One
-
S 4a *  
100 Route Two
-
VS 4c  
101 Route Three
-
VD  
102 Pinko-Subversive
-
S 4a  
103 Manic Nirvana
-
HVS 5a *  
104 Bumper Dumoer
-
HVS 5b  
105 The Moosetrap
-
VS 4c  
106 Poison Ivy
-
D  
107 Titan's Corner
-
E1 5a  
108 Marie Celeste
-
VS 4b  
109 Blistering Barnacles
-
S 4a  
110 Barnacle Bill
-
S 4a  
  Old Zawn Slab
112 Nursery End
-
VD  
113 Silly Mid-On
-
VD  
114 Silly Mid-Off
-
S  
115 Grapeshot
-
HS 4b  
116 Mid-Wicket
-
HVS 4c *  
117 Old Zawn
-
HVS 4c  
118 Evens
-
VS 4c  
119 The Slips
-
HVS 5a  
120 Whale Meat Again
-
S  
121 A Wee Cracker
-
VS 4c * 1
  Other
123 Meikle Ross Traverse VS 1

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