Climbs 47
Rocktype Granite
Altitude 1049m a.s.l
Faces SE

Shameless posing at the base of the best handcrack of the summer © Patrick Daniel

Crag features

Arch Rock is one of the best "crags" in Yosemite Valley with an excellent selection of single and (short) multi-pitch routes on some of the best rock in the Valley. The climbing predominantly follows clean cracks and the wide nature of these cracks makes for some strenuous outings.

Despite the wide nature of the climbing, most of the routes can be well protected with cams up to #6 BD Camalot or equivalent. This fact, along with the length of the routes makes this an excellent place to develop wide crack technique which is more or less essential on many of the longer free climbs in the Valley.

Arch Rock is located in the Lower Merced River Canyon, 15 miles west of the main Yosemite Valley above the park entrance station on Highway 140. This canyon is lower elevation than the main valley and can have significantly different weather. It can be dry even when it is raining in the valley and is usually a good few degrees warmer. This fact, and its SE aspect make it an excellent winter venue or a good choice on cooler days. On many spring and autumn days, when it is sunny in the valley, it will likely be too hot to climb here.

The "crag" is spread over multiple tiers, though all the classic routes are on the lowest, tier and routes on the upper-tiers are much less frequently climbed. Gripper, Midterm, New Dimensions, Leanie Meanie and Anticipation are all superb.

 

Approach notes

Park either at the parking lot next to the park entrance station, or at the small lot beneath the crag itself. The crag is obvious from the road: follow an intermittent trail up the talus to the base of Midterm. 20min.

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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Lower Tier
2 Dirty Little Secret 5.9  
3 Constipation 5.11d *  
4 Anticipation 5.11b ** 3
5 Supplication 5.10c * 13
6 Inner Sanctum 5.11c * 2
7 Application 5.9 * 1
8 T.K.O. 5.11c **  
9 Punchline 5.12c **  
10 Entrance Exam
-
5.9 ** 4
11 Blotto aka Axis 5.10d * 2
12 Goldilocks
-
5.12a 2
13 The Principle 5.12b 1
14 English Breakfast Crack 5.10c * 17
15 Sidetrack 5.11a  
16 Midterm 5.10b *** 13
17 Leanie Meanie 5.11b *** 10
18 Gripper 5.10b *** 14
19 Two "D" 5.10c  
20 Bachar's Ring Job 5.11d *  
21 New Dimensions 5.11a *** 25
22 The Voyage 5.10c *  
23 Klemens' Escape 5.9 *  
24 Inchworm 5.11b  
25 Grokin' 5.11b  
  Upper Tier, Left
27 Now
-
5.10a  
28 Omakara
-
5.12b *  
29 Later
-
5.11a  
30 GRE
-
5.11b  
31 SAT
-
5.12a  
32 Ultimate Emotion
-
5.11c  
33 Skateaway
-
5.10a  
34 The Bin
-
5.10d *  
35 Arch Rock Pinnacle Per-Spire-ation
-
5.10b  
36 Arch Rock Pinnacle Original Route
-
5.5  
37 Pass or Fail
-
5.10b  
38 Cross-Country Crack
-
5.9  
39 Kindergarten Crack
-
5.8  
40 Quickie Quizzes, left
-
5.10a  
41 Quickie Quizzes, Right
-
5.10b *  
  Upper Tier Right
43 Nerf Test
-
5.8  
44 Extra Credit
-
5.10d  
45 Juliette's Flake, Left Side
-
5.8  
46 Juliette's Flake, Right Side
-
5.1  
47 Cosmic Messenger
-
5.11a *  
48 Goldfinger
-
5.12a **  
49 Torque Converter
-
5.11d *  
50 Stealth Technology
-
5.11a  

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