Climbs 17
Rocktype Schist
Altitude 229m a.s.l
Faces S
Crag features
Quick drying, stunning views out to the Rhu Peninsula. Decent is via steep gullies on left hand side of both areas looking in.
Approach notes
The parking mentioned in HOS is now blocked off, either park by the viaduct or further on at the Princes Cairn lay-by and walk along the road with care. Follow a track from the HOS parking spot through the trees which leads to a small tunnel under the railway leading out onto the hillside below the crags. Approach takes 35 minutes, longer in summer when bracken is in full swing, quite ticky!
The crag is at NM 7301 8480.
Access Advice
The tunnel is the larger one to the right of where the stream comes through. It would be possible to go up the one with the stream but rather unpleasant!
| If wanting to avoid head high bracken for the Gleann Mama Slabs in summer then follow the approach notes in Highland Outcrops South for Glaic Ruadh to the ridge and follow this until an easy descent to the slabs can be made on the right.
These crags deserve much more traffic with a good spread of routes and all around the same approach time for the middle and upper tiers of Polldubh (i.e. rarely more than 30 minutes.) Nathan Adam - 15/Jul/19 |
|
| Noel Williams found this book, The Guide to Arisaig and the Road to the Isles by Joan M.
Scudds ,1977. And an extract from p14, by Norman Tennant. The routes have yet to be
identified.
DRUIM FIACLACH, NM 735 850, is an attractive looking little peak seen from the road
alongside Loch-nan-Uamh. It is a fine viewpoint for the Rois Bheinn group south, Ben Nevis
east, and the small Isles to the west. Eilean an Each, the islet north of Muck shows up
particularly well. It may be approached either from the corner 800 yards east of the Prince's
Cairn (Cuildarroch) NM 726 843, where a track leads under the railway to the bealach (north
of Glac Ruadh; or directly north from Glen Mama farm.
The rock is very sound on the open slabs and faces— on a dry, sunny day reminiscent of
gabbro at its best. It is probably a basic rock that has been through several igneous stages,
much folded with many quartz dykes.
The face is in three tiers. The lowest provides:
Coxcomb 60' VD. The first ten feet seem inordinately steep, but don't be lured to the right.
Above, the overhanging steps are good incut holds, and on the final crest one may emulate
Blondin! Seen from Glac Ruadh this ridge presents a cox-comb like form.
The middle tier is divided by a diagonal heather ledge, running from bottom left to top right.
To the right hand edge is Raven's Slab, 150' S. The first pitch is a slab leading to the right
hand edge with adequate (just) incut holds. Then follows a steep section up small quartzite
knobs and side pressure holds to a 10' heather traverse right, to a cave. Exit left up a steep
short chimney with heather cornice.
Contorta 200' HS
On the uppermost tier is the steep topmost slab seen so well from the road by the Prince's
Cairn. It has a pronounced pinkish blush discernible from a distance. Close to, the strata are
seen to twist like the grain in Birdseye Maple.
On the slab the holds are fine, and they become finer and finer, till one is finally greeted at
the top by hawthorn and briar roses. A steep chimney leads to within 50' of the highest point.
One should not be lured into the depths of the chimney where more savage thorns lie in wait
for the timerous! arose - 06/Jan/19 |
Climbs at this crag
| Name | Grade | Stars | Type | Logs | Partner Ascents |
|---|
These climbs you have climbed by seconding or top-roping.
These climbs you have Dogged.
These climbs you Did not Finish.
Climbs are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate. Climbs can't be verified by a crag moderator, and they need more information to confirm it. Climbs are no longer climbable.
Moderators Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteers arose and Nathan Adam