UKC

Climbs 163
Rocktype Granite
Altitude 900m a.s.l
Faces NE

Grovel Wall-Ian Duckworth about to ab off a tied off blade... © Rhoddy Stewart

Crag features

Provides some of the most spectacular, if not always the most reliable, winter climbing in the Cairngorms.
Notable winter routes : Eagle Ridge (VI,6), Polyphemus Gully (V,5).
Should not be ignored in summer some excellent routes - an early season ascent of Eagle Ridge (S) provides a thrilling route in near Alpine conditions.

Approach notes

Restrictions during stalking: Sept-Jan. (but only affecting the longer northern approach from Balmoral: access normally unaffected year round from normal Glen Muick approach).
Check at Glen Muick Ranger station if in doubt.
Car park charge of £4 now levied by Royal Estate at Glen Muick car park.
Beware after heavy snow: most approaches cross avalanche run outs. Huge cornices can form, making late season exits problematic. Gullies, as everywhere else, should be avoided like the plague during/after heavy snow or a thaw.
Unique hazard is bumping into Prince Charles on the approach, who is known to invite climbers into his bothy for a 'wee dram'. Make sure you wipe your boots before entering.

Car park is now 3 for the day
timday - 16/Mar/15
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  SOUTHERN SECTOR
  The Sentinal
3 Bells on the Rocks I 3
4 Sonshine Corner III 6
5 Fluffy Face IV 4 * 2
6 Pea Soup Chimney IV 4 1
7 Red Lightning II 4
8 Left Spiral
-
II 1
9 Jacob's Slabs III 4 * 19
10 Starlight and Storm V 5 * 3
11 Sentinel Couloir
-
II 7
  Sunset Buttress
13 Iffy IV 4 2
14 Sunset Gully III 10
15 Quick Dash Crack IV 5 5
16 Sunset Buttress
-
III 5 * 4
17 Sunset Buttress Direct IV 7 ** 5
18 Pelican Groove II/III 2
19 Triangle Buttress
-
II 9
20 Triangle Buttress (summer) M 1
21 Red Spout I * 18
  Perseverance Wall
23 Perseverance Groove II 4
24 Forgotten Runnel II 1
25 Never Say Die III 4 * 6
26 Perseverance Rib
-
III 11
27 The Handrail III 4 1
28 Most Likely You Go Your Way III 2
29 Starburst II 5
30 Gale Force Groove III * 8
31 Lunar Eclipse
-
III * 3
32 The Gift
-
II ** 17
33 Cumberland
-
III 1
34 Temptress III * 3
35 Windfall III * 7
  The Cathedral
37 Unknown II *  
38 Ghost Dance
-
V 6 * 12
39 Transcept Groove IV 5 * 11
40 Transept Route V 6 ** 13
41 Sepulchre V 6 ** 14
42 Spellbound VI 7 ** 2
43 Judas Priest
-
V 5 * 10
44 Trinity VI 7 * 1
45 The Cracker VII 8 ** 1
46 Cathedral Chimney
-
IV 4 ** 41
47 Magic Pillar IV 5 *** 76
48 No Worries Groove V 6 *  
49 The Sorcerer V 6 * 3
50 Forsaken Gully
-
II 33
  Sinister Buttress
52 Gully Route II 7
53 Central Gully
-
I 25
  MAIN SECTOR
55 Pointless walk to the Mountain Rescue box below the crag summit *** 3
  Central Buttress
57 Central Buttress
-
II ** 152
58 Central Buttress(summer)
-
M * 23
59 Fancy Free VII 9 ** 1
60 Footloose
-
VII 8 ** 1
61 Mantichore
-
VII 7 ** 5
Climb name Grade
62 Mantichore (Summer)
-
E1 5b 1
63 Central Buttress Direct
-
IV 6 * 4
64 Central Buttress Direct Alternative start
-
V 6 5
65 Chevalier V 7 * 1
66 Centrist V 5 ** 10
67 Sciolist
-
IV 4 * 2
68 Magical Mystery Tour
-
V 6 * 1
69 Shallow Gully
-
IV 4 8
  Shadow Buttress A
71 Shadow Rib
-
V 5 * 2
72 Shadowlands
-
VI 7 *** 9
73 Shadow Buttress A, Original Route IV 5 *** 131
74 Shadow Buttress A, Bell's Route III * 5
75 Moonshadow
-
V 5 ** 16
76 Giant's Head Chimney Direct
-
V 5 1
77 Giant's Head Chimney
-
IV 4 11
78 Polyphemus Gully
-
V 5 *** 107
  Shadow Buttress B
80 Raeburn's Groove
-
VII 7 *  
81 Bell's Route
-
V 6 ** 26
82 Turf Route
-
IV 4 ** 4
83 Shadow Buttress B
-
V 6 ** 5
84 Penumbra V 5 ** 3
85 Douglas-Gibson Gully
-
V 4 18
  Eagle Ridge and Parallel Buttress
87 Eagle Ridge (summer)
-
S *** 512
88 Eagle Ridge VI 6 *** 85
89 Eagle Buttress
-
IV 3 * 5
90 Eagle Groove IV 5 * 1
91 Where Eagles Dare
-
VII 8 *** 5
92 Parallel Gully A
-
III *** 88
93 Parallel A Gully Right Fork IV 4 ** 17
94 Parallel Buttress VI 6 14
95 Parallel Gully B V 5 *** 37
  Tough-Brown Face
97 Tough-Brown Traverse
-
IV 3 * 9
98 Tough-Brown Traverse (summer)
-
VD 1
99 Nymph VII *** 1
100 Crypt
-
VI 7  
101 Trail Of Tears
-
VII 7 *** 1
102 Dirge E1 5b 1
103 Diedre of the Sorrows
-
VIII 8 *** 1
104 Crazy Sorrow
-
IX 10 *** 1
105 Mort
-
IX 9 *** 1
106 Mort (summer)
-
E2 ** 1
107 Rolling Thunder
-
VII 7 *** 1
108 Tough Guy
-
VII 7 *** 6
109 Tough Brown Ridge Direct
-
V 6 ** 8
110 Tough Brown Ridge Direct (summer)
-
VS  
  Raeburn's Gully
112 Backdoor Route
-
IV 4 16
113 Raeburn's Gully
-
II *** 227
114 The Clam V 6 ** 3
115 Scarface Wall VIII 8 *** 1
116 Scarface
-
V 4 10
117 Amphitheatre Route
-
III 2
  Black Spout Pinnacle
119 Pinnacle Gully 1
-
III 19
120 Pinnacle Face (summer)
-
VS 4b * 4
121 Pinnacle Face
-
VI 7 6
122 Pinnacle Grooves (summer)
-
HVS 5a ** 10
Climb name Grade
123 The Link (summer)
-
VS 4c **  
124 The Link Face
-
VII 7 ***  
125 Link Direct
-
VIII 7 *** 3
126 Nihilist
-
E1 5b * 6
127 Nihilist Extremist Combination E2 5b ** 3
128 The Existentialist
-
E6 6b **  
129 Route One V 6 7
130 Black Spout Wall
-
E3 5c *** 12
131 Winter Black Spout Wall
-
IX 9 ***  
132 Steep Frowning Glories
-
E6 6b **  
133 Route 2
-
S * 4
134 Route 2 (Winter)
-
VI 6 ** 3
135 The Ice Ox
-
IV 4 3
136 Twin Chimneys Route
-
IV 5 3
137 Slab Gully III 2
138 Pinnacle Gully 2
-
II 11
139 Chinook
-
IV 4 1
140 Black Spout Left Hand Branch I ** 101
  The Stack
142 Crumbling Cranny II ** 39
143 Heliopolis E3 5c ** 2
144 Utramontane E4 6a ** 2
145 The Stack
-
V 6 ** 4
146 The Black Spout
-
I 183
147 The Black Spout, Right-Hand Finish III 4 7
148 The White Spout
-
IV 4 5
149 Early Bird Groove IV 6 * 1
  West Buttress
151 Black Spout Buttress (summer)
-
D * 60
152 Black Spout Buttress
-
III 5 *** 63
153 Gargoyle Chimney
-
IV 4 7
154 Prince Of Darkness
-
VI 7 *** 2
155 Apophis E7 6b 1
156 West Gully
-
IV 4 ** 43
157 Gelder Buttress III 4 2
  COIRE NA SAOBHAIDHE
159 Central Icefall, Coire Na Saobhaidhe III 5
  COIRE LOCH NAN EUN
161 Bathtime Buttress
-
II **  
162 Plug Groove (Coire an loch nan Eun)
-
III 1
163 Stuic Buttress (Coire an loch nan Eun)
-
I ** 74
164 Stuic Buttress (Coire an loch nan Eun) (Summer)
-
1 11
165 Shepherd's Warning
-
III  
166 Solid Air
-
IV 4 * 1
167 Daybreak Corners
-
III *  
168 Millennium Buttress
-
V 5 *  
169 Bonanza
-
V 7 ** 1
170 Twilight Groove
-
III 4 ** 3
171 First Light IV 5 ** 7
172 The Stooee Chimney
-
IV 7 *  
173 New Boot Groove (Coire an loch nan Eun) III 4 5
174 Serendipity Pillar
-
IV 5  
175 Morning Has Broken
-
V 6 ** 1
176 Big Block Groove
-
IV 4  
177 House of Cards
-
V 6 *  
178 The Slot, Left-Hand
-
III 4  
179 The Slot
-
IV 6 *  
180 Stegosaurus Rib (Coire an loch nan Eun)
-
II 6
181 Stegosaurus Rib (summer) 2 1
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Stuart S