Climbs 159
Rocktype Granite
Altitude 900m a.s.l
Faces NE

Grovel Wall-Ian Duckworth about to ab off a tied off blade... © Rhoddy Stewart

Crag features

Provides some of the most spectacular, if not always the most reliable, winter climbing in the Cairngorms.
Notable winter routes : Eagle Ridge (VI,6), Polyphemus Gully (V,5).
Should not be ignored in summer some excellent routes - an early season ascent of Eagle Ridge (S) provides a thrilling route in near Alpine conditions.

Approach notes

Restrictions during stalking: Sept-Jan. (but only affecting the longer northern approach from Balmoral: access normally unaffected year round from normal Glen Muick approach).
Check at Glen Muick Ranger station if in doubt.
Car park charge of £4 now levied by Royal Estate at Glen Muick car park.
Beware after heavy snow: most approaches cross avalanche run outs. Huge cornices can form, making late season exits problematic. Gullies, as everywhere else, should be avoided like the plague during/after heavy snow or a thaw.
Unique hazard is bumping into Prince Charles on the approach, who is known to invite climbers into his bothy for a 'wee dram'. Make sure you wipe your boots before entering.

Car park is now 3 for the day
timday - 16/Mar/15
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  SOUTHERN SECTOR
  The Sentinal
3 Bells on the Rocks I 3
4 Sonshine Corner III 6
5 Fluffy Face IV 4 * 2
6 Pea Soup Chimney IV 4 1
7 Red Lightning II 3
8 Jacob's Slabs III 4 * 19
9 Starlight and Storm V 5 * 3
10 Sentinel Couloir
-
II 6
  Sunset Buttress
12 Iffy IV 4 2
13 Sunset Gully III 10
14 Quick Dash Crack IV 5 4
15 Sunset Buttress
-
III 5 * 2
16 Sunset Buttress Direct IV 7 ** 5
17 Pelican Groove II/III 2
18 Triangle Buttress
-
II 8
19 Red Spout I * 18
  Perseverance Wall
21 Perseverance Groove II 4
22 Forgotten Runnel II 1
23 Never Say Die III 4 * 6
24 Perseverance Rib
-
III 11
25 The Handrail III 4 1
26 Most Likely You Go Your Way III 2
27 Starburst II 5
28 Gale Force Groove III * 4
29 Lunar Eclipse
-
III * 2
30 The Gift
-
II ** 13
31 Cumberland
-
III 1
32 Temptress III * 2
33 Windfall III * 3
34 Triangle Buttress * M 1
  The Cathedral
36 Unknown II *  
37 Ghost Dance
-
V 6 * 9
38 Transcept Groove IV 5 * 8
39 Transept Route V 6 ** 10
40 Sepulchre V 6 ** 14
41 Spellbound VI 7 ** 2
42 Judas Priest
-
V 5 * 8
43 Trinity VI 7 * 1
44 The Cracker VII 8 ** 1
45 Cathedral Chimney
-
IV 4 ** 52
46 Magic Pillar IV 5 *** 87
47 No Worries Groove V 6 *  
48 The Sorcerer V 6 * 3
49 Forsaken Gully
-
II 31
  Sinister Buttress
51 Gully Route II 7
52 Central Gully
-
I 24
  MAIN SECTOR
54 Pointless walk to the Mountain Rescue box below the crag summit *** 2
  Central Buttress
56 Central Buttress
-
II ** 146
57 Central Buttress(summer)
-
M * 19
58 Fancy Free VII 9 ** 1
59 Footloose
-
VII 8 ** 1
60 Mantichore
-
VII 7 ** 4
61 Mantichore (Summer)
-
E1 5b 1
62 Central Buttress Direct
-
IV 6 * 3
63 Central Buttress Direct Alternative start
-
V 6 4
64 Chevalier V 7 *  
65 Centrist V 5 ** 13
66 Sciolist
-
IV 4 * 2
67 Magical Mystery Tour
-
V 6 * 1
68 Shallow Gully
-
IV 4 8
  Shadow Buttress A
70 Shadow Rib
-
V 5 * 2
71 Shadowlands
-
VI 7 *** 7
72 Shadow Buttress A, Original Route IV 5 *** 154
73 Shadow Buttress A, Bell's Route III * 5
74 Moonshadow
-
V 5 ** 14
75 Giant's Head Chimney Direct
-
V 5 1
76 Giant's Head Chimney
-
IV 4 11
77 Polyphemus Gully
-
V 5 *** 142
  Shadow Buttress B
79 Raeburn's Groove
-
VII 7 *  
80 Bell's Route
-
V 6 ** 23
81 Turf Route
-
IV 4 ** 4
82 Shadow Buttress B
-
V 6 ** 3
83 Penumbra V 5 ** 3
84 Douglas-Gibson Gully
-
V 4 17
  Eagle Ridge and Parallel Buttress
86 Eagle Ridge (summer)
-
S *** 668
87 Eagle Ridge VI 6 *** 79
88 Eagle Buttress
-
IV 3 * 5
89 Eagle Groove IV 5 * 1
90 Where Eagles Dare
-
VII 8 *** 5
91 Parallel Gully A
-
III *** 82
92 Parallel A Gully Right Fork IV 4 ** 16
93 Parallel Buttress VI 6 14
94 Parallel Gully B V 5 *** 37
  Tough-Brown Face
96 Tough-Brown Traverse
-
IV 3 * 9
97 Tough-Brown Traverse (summer)
-
VD 1
98 Nymph VII *** 1
99 Crypt
-
VI 7  
100 Trail Of Tears
-
VII 7 *** 1
101 Diedre of the Sorrows
-
VIII 8 ***  
102 Crazy Sorrow
-
IX 10 *** 1
103 Mort
-
IX 9 *** 1
104 Mort (summer)
-
E2 **  
105 Rolling Thunder
-
VII 7 ***  
106 Tough Guy
-
VII 7 *** 6
107 Tough Brown Ridge Direct
-
V 6 ** 6
108 Tough Brown Ridge Direct (summer)
-
VS  
  Raeburn's Gully
110 Backdoor Route
-
IV 4 12
111 Raeburn's Gully
-
II *** 215
112 The Clam V 6 ** 3
113 Scarface Wall VIII 8 *** 1
114 Scarface
-
V 4 10
115 Amphitheatre Route
-
III 2
  Black Spout Pinnacle
117 Pinnacle Gully 1
-
III 19
118 Pinnacle Face (summer)
-
VS 4b * 3
119 Pinnacle Face
-
VI 7 6
120 Pinnacle Grooves (summer)
-
HVS 5a ** 10
121 The Link (summer)
-
VS 4c **  
122 The Link Face
-
VII 7 ***  
123 Link Direct
-
VIII 7 *** 2
124 Nihilist
-
E1 5b * 3
125 Nihilist Extremist Combination E2 5b ** 3
126 The Existentialist
-
E6 6b **  
127 Route One V 6 7
128 Black Spout Wall
-
E3 5c *** 10
129 Winter Black Spout Wall
-
IX 9 ***  
130 Steep Frowning Glories
-
E6 6b **  
131 Route 2
-
S * 3
132 Route 2 (Winter)
-
VI 6 ** 3
133 The Ice Ox
-
IV 4 3
134 Twin Chimneys Route
-
IV 5 1
135 Slab Gully III 2
136 Pinnacle Gully 2
-
II 10
137 Black Spout Left Hand Branch I ** 94
  The Stack
139 Crumbling Cranny II ** 37
140 Heliopolis E3 5c ** 3
141 Utramontane E4 6a ** 2
142 The Stack
-
V 6 ** 4
143 The Black Spout
-
I 177
144 The Black Spout, Right-Hand Finish III 4 6
145 The White Spout
-
IV 4 5
  West Buttress
147 Black Spout Buttress (summer)
-
D * 67
148 Black Spout Buttress
-
III 5 *** 55
149 Gargoyle Chimney
-
IV 4 7
150 Prince Of Darkness
-
VI 7 *** 2
151 Apophis E7 6b 1
152 West Gully
-
IV 4 ** 52
153 Gelder Buttress III 4 2
  COIRE NA SAOBHAIDHE
155 Central Icefall, Coire Na Saobhaidhe III 5
  COIRE LOCH NAN EUN
157 Bathtime Buttress
-
II **  
158 Plug Groove (Coire an loch nan Eun)
-
III 1
159 Stuic Buttress (Coire an loch nan Eun)
-
I ** 63
160 Stuic Buttress (Coire an loch nan Eun) (Summer)
-
1 9
161 Shepherd's Warning
-
III  
162 Solid Air
-
IV 4 *  
163 Daybreak Corners
-
III *  
164 Millennium Buttress
-
V 5 *  
165 Bonanza
-
V 7 ** 1
166 Twilight Groove
-
III 4 ** 1
167 First Light IV 5 ** 3
168 The Stooee Chimney
-
IV 7 *  
169 New Boot Groove (Coire an loch nan Eun) III 4 2
170 Serendipity Pillar
-
IV 5  
171 Morning Has Broken
-
V 6 ** 1
172 Big Block Groove
-
IV 4  
173 House of Cards
-
V 6 *  
174 The Slot, Left-Hand
-
III 4  
175 The Slot
-
IV 6 *  
176 Stegosaurus Rib (Coire an loch nan Eun)
-
II 5
177 Stegosaurus Rib (summer) 2 1
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Stuart S