UKC

Climbs 168
Rocktype Granite
Altitude 900m a.s.l
Faces NE

Grovel Wall-Ian Duckworth about to ab off a tied off blade... © Rhoddy Stewart

Crag features

Provides some of the most spectacular, if not always the most reliable, winter climbing in the Cairngorms.
Notable winter routes : Eagle Ridge (VI,6), Polyphemus Gully (V,5).
Should not be ignored in summer some excellent routes - an early season ascent of Eagle Ridge (S) provides a thrilling route in near Alpine conditions.

Approach notes

Restrictions during stalking: Sept-Jan. (but only affecting the longer northern approach from Balmoral: access normally unaffected year round from normal Glen Muick approach).
Check at Glen Muick Ranger station if in doubt.
Car park charge of £4 now levied by Royal Estate at Glen Muick car park.
Beware after heavy snow: most approaches cross avalanche run outs. Huge cornices can form, making late season exits problematic. Gullies, as everywhere else, should be avoided like the plague during/after heavy snow or a thaw.
Unique hazard is bumping into Prince Charles on the approach, who is known to invite climbers into his bothy for a 'wee dram'. Make sure you wipe your boots before entering.

Car park is now 3 for the day
timday - 16/Mar/15
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  SOUTHERN SECTOR
  The Sentinal
3 Bells on the Rocks I 3
4 Sonshine Corner III 6
5 Fluffy Face IV 4 * 2
6 Pea Soup Chimney IV 4 1
7 Red Lightning II 4
8 Left Spiral
-
II 1
9 Jacob's Slabs III 4 * 19
10 Starlight and Storm V 5 * 4
11 Sentinel Couloir
-
II 7
12 Paladin * S  
13 Eagle Eye * none *  
14 Sentinel Edge * S * 2
  Sunset Buttress
16 Iffy IV 4 2
17 Sunset Gully III 10
18 Quick Dash Crack IV 5 5
19 Sunset Buttress
-
III 5 * 4
20 Sunset Buttress Direct IV 7 ** 5
21 Pelican Groove II/III 2
22 Triangle Buttress
-
II 9
23 Triangle Buttress (summer) M 1
24 Red Spout I * 18
  Perseverance Wall
26 Perseverance Groove II 5
27 Forgotten Runnel II 1
28 Never Say Die III 4 * 6
29 Perseverance Rib
-
III 11
30 The Handrail III 4 1
31 Most Likely You Go Your Way III 2
32 Starburst II 5
33 Gale Force Groove III * 8
34 Lunar Eclipse
-
III * 5
35 The Gift
-
II ** 17
36 Cumberland
-
III 1
37 Temptress III * 3
38 Windfall III * 7
  The Cathedral
40 Unknown II *  
41 Ghost Dance
-
V 6 * 12
42 Transcept Groove IV 5 * 11
43 Transept Route V 6 ** 13
44 Sepulchre V 6 ** 14
45 Spellbound VI 7 ** 2
46 Judas Priest
-
V 5 * 10
47 Trinity VI 7 * 1
48 The Cracker VII 8 ** 1
49 Cathedral Chimney
-
IV 4 ** 42
50 Magic Pillar IV 5 *** 77
51 No Worries Groove V 6 *  
52 The Sorcerer V 6 * 3
53 Forsaken Gully
-
II 33
54 Mullahmaloumouktou *
-
E2 5c *  
  Sinister Buttress
56 Gully Route II 7
57 Central Gully
-
I 25
  MAIN SECTOR
59 Pointless walk to the Mountain Rescue box below the crag summit *** 3
  Central Buttress
61 Central Buttress
-
II ** 153
62 Central Buttress(summer)
-
M * 23
Climb name Grade
63 Fancy Free VII 9 ** 1
64 Footloose
-
VII 8 ** 1
65 Mantichore
-
VII 7 ** 5
66 Mantichore (Summer)
-
E1 5b 1
67 Central Buttress Direct
-
IV 6 * 4
68 Central Buttress Direct Alternative start
-
V 6 5
69 Chevalier V 7 * 1
70 Centrist V 5 ** 10
71 Sciolist
-
IV 4 * 2
72 Magical Mystery Tour
-
V 6 * 1
73 Shallow Gully
-
IV 4 8
  Shadow Buttress A
75 Shadow Rib
-
V 5 * 2
76 Shadowlands
-
VI 7 *** 9
77 Shadow Buttress A, Original Route IV 5 *** 131
78 Shadow Buttress A, Bell's Route III * 5
79 Moonshadow
-
V 5 ** 16
80 Giant's Head Chimney Direct
-
V 5 1
81 Giant's Head Chimney
-
IV 4 11
82 Polyphemus Gully
-
V 5 *** 106
  Shadow Buttress B
84 Raeburn's Groove
-
VII 7 *  
85 Bell's Route
-
V 6 ** 26
86 Turf Route
-
IV 4 ** 4
87 Shadow Buttress B
-
V 6 ** 6
88 Penumbra V 5 ** 3
89 Douglas-Gibson Gully
-
V 4 18
  Eagle Ridge and Parallel Buttress
91 Eagle Ridge (summer)
-
S *** 546
92 Eagle Ridge VI 6 *** 88
93 Eagle Buttress
-
IV 3 * 5
94 Eagle Groove IV 5 * 2
95 Where Eagles Dare
-
VII 8 *** 5
96 Parallel Gully A
-
III *** 88
97 Parallel A Gully Right Fork IV 4 ** 17
98 Parallel Buttress VI 6 14
99 Parallel Gully B V 5 *** 37
  Tough-Brown Face
101 Tough-Brown Traverse
-
IV 3 * 9
102 Tough-Brown Traverse (summer)
-
VD 1
103 Nymph VII *** 1
104 Crypt
-
VI 7  
105 Trail Of Tears
-
VII 7 *** 1
106 Dirge E1 5b 1
107 Diedre of the Sorrows
-
VIII 8 *** 1
108 Crazy Sorrow
-
IX 10 *** 1
109 Mort
-
IX 9 *** 1
110 Mort (summer)
-
E2 ** 2
111 Rolling Thunder
-
VII 7 *** 1
112 Tough Guy
-
VII 7 *** 6
113 Tough Brown Ridge Direct
-
V 6 ** 8
114 Tough Brown Ridge Direct (summer)
-
VS  
  Raeburn's Gully
116 Backdoor Route
-
IV 4 16
117 Raeburn's Gully
-
II *** 227
118 The Clam V 6 ** 3
119 Scarface Wall VIII 8 *** 1
120 Scarface
-
V 4 10
121 Amphitheatre Route
-
III 2
  Black Spout Pinnacle
123 Pinnacle Gully 1
-
III 19
124 Pinnacle Face (summer)
-
VS 4b * 4
Climb name Grade
125 Pinnacle Face
-
VI 7 6
126 Pinnacle Grooves (summer)
-
HVS 5a ** 10
127 The Link (summer)
-
VS 4c **  
128 The Link Face
-
VII 7 ***  
129 Link Direct
-
VIII 7 *** 3
130 Nihilist
-
E1 5b * 6
131 Nihilist Extremist Combination E2 5b ** 3
132 The Existentialist
-
E6 6b **  
133 Route One V 6 7
134 Black Spout Wall
-
E3 5c *** 14
135 Winter Black Spout Wall
-
IX 9 ***  
136 Steep Frowning Glories
-
E6 6b **  
137 Route 2
-
S * 4
138 Route 2 (Winter)
-
VI 6 ** 3
139 The Ice Ox
-
IV 4 3
140 Twin Chimneys Route
-
IV 5 3
141 Slab Gully III 2
142 Pinnacle Gully 2
-
II 11
143 Chinook
-
IV 4 1
144 Black Spout Left Hand Branch I ** 101
  The Stack
146 Crumbling Cranny II ** 39
147 Heliopolis E3 5c ** 2
148 Utramontane E4 6a ** 2
149 The Stack
-
V 6 ** 4
150 The Black Spout
-
I 183
151 The Black Spout, Right-Hand Finish III 4 7
152 The White Spout
-
IV 4 5
153 Early Bird Groove IV 6 * 1
  West Buttress
155 Black Spout Buttress (summer)
-
D * 66
156 Black Spout Buttress
-
III 5 *** 63
157 Gargoyle Chimney
-
IV 4 7
158 Prince Of Darkness
-
VI 7 *** 2
159 Apophis E7 6b 1
160 West Gully
-
IV 4 ** 43
161 Gelder Buttress III 4 2
162 Western Slant * III * 2
  COIRE NA SAOBHAIDHE
164 Central Icefall, Coire Na Saobhaidhe III 5
  COIRE LOCH NAN EUN
166 Bathtime Buttress
-
II **  
167 Plug Groove (Coire an loch nan Eun)
-
III 1
168 Stuic Buttress (Coire an loch nan Eun)
-
I ** 74
169 Stuic Buttress (Coire an loch nan Eun) (Summer)
-
1 11
170 Shepherd's Warning
-
III  
171 Solid Air
-
IV 4 * 1
172 Daybreak Corners
-
III *  
173 Millennium Buttress
-
V 5 *  
174 Bonanza
-
V 7 ** 1
175 Twilight Groove
-
III 4 ** 3
176 First Light IV 5 ** 7
177 The Stooee Chimney
-
IV 7 *  
178 New Boot Groove (Coire an loch nan Eun) III 4 5
179 Serendipity Pillar
-
IV 5  
180 Morning Has Broken
-
V 6 ** 1
181 Big Block Groove
-
IV 4  
182 House of Cards
-
V 6 *  
183 The Slot, Left-Hand
-
III 4  
184 The Slot
-
IV 6 *  
185 Stegosaurus Rib (Coire an loch nan Eun)
-
II 6
186 Stegosaurus Rib (summer) 2 2
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Stuart S