Climbs 158
Rocktype Granite
Altitude 900m a.s.l
Faces NE

Grovel Wall-Ian Duckworth about to ab off a tied off blade... © Rhoddy Stewart

Crag features

Provides some of the most spectacular, if not always the most reliable, winter climbing in the Cairngorms.
Notable winter routes : Eagle Ridge (VI,6), Polyphemus Gully (V,5).
Should not be ignored in summer some excellent routes - an early season ascent of Eagle Ridge (S) provides a thrilling route in near Alpine conditions.

Approach notes

Restrictions during stalking: Sept-Jan. (but only affecting the longer northern approach from Balmoral: access normally unaffected year round from normal Glen Muick approach).
Check at Glen Muick Ranger station if in doubt.
Car park charge of £4 now levied by Royal Estate at Glen Muick car park.
Beware after heavy snow: most approaches cross avalanche run outs. Huge cornices can form, making late season exits problematic. Gullies, as everywhere else, should be avoided like the plague during/after heavy snow or a thaw.
Unique hazard is bumping into Prince Charles on the approach, who is known to invite climbers into his bothy for a 'wee dram'. Make sure you wipe your boots before entering.

Car park is now 3 for the day
timday - 16/Mar/15
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  SOUTHERN SECTOR
  The Sentinal
3 Bells on the Rocks I 3
4 Sonshine Corner III 6
5 Fluffy Face IV 4 * 2
6 Pea Soup Chimney IV 4 1
7 Red Lightning II 3
8 Jacob's Slabs III 4 * 19
9 Starlight and Storm V 5 * 3
10 Sentinel Couloir
-
II 6
  Sunset Buttress
12 Iffy IV 4 2
13 Sunset Gully III 10
14 Quick Dash Crack IV 5 4
15 Sunset Buttress
-
III 5 * 2
16 Sunset Buttress Direct IV 7 ** 5
17 Pelican Groove II/III 2
18 Triangle Buttress
-
II 8
19 Red Spout I * 18
  Perseverance Wall
21 Perseverance Groove II 4
22 Forgotten Runnel II 1
23 Never Say Die III 4 * 6
24 Perseverance Rib
-
III 11
25 The Handrail III 4 1
26 Most Likely You Go Your Way III 2
27 Starburst II 5
28 Gale Force Groove III * 4
29 Lunar Eclipse
-
III * 2
30 The Gift
-
II ** 13
31 Cumberland
-
III 1
32 Temptress III * 2
33 Windfall III * 3
  The Cathedral
35 Unknown II *  
36 Ghost Dance
-
V 6 * 9
37 Transcept Groove IV 5 * 8
38 Transept Route V 6 ** 10
39 Sepulchre V 6 ** 14
40 Spellbound VI 7 ** 2
41 Judas Priest
-
V 5 * 8
42 Trinity VI 7 * 1
43 The Cracker VII 8 ** 1
44 Cathedral Chimney
-
IV 4 ** 52
45 Magic Pillar IV 5 *** 87
46 No Worries Groove V 6 *  
47 The Sorcerer V 6 * 3
48 Forsaken Gully
-
II 31
  Sinister Buttress
50 Gully Route II 7
51 Central Gully
-
I 24
  MAIN SECTOR
53 Pointless walk to the Mountain Rescue box below the crag summit *** 2
  Central Buttress
55 Central Buttress
-
II ** 146
56 Central Buttress(summer)
-
M * 18
57 Fancy Free VII 9 ** 1
58 Footloose
-
VII 8 ** 1
59 Mantichore
-
VII 7 ** 4
60 Mantichore (Summer)
-
E1 5b 1
61 Central Buttress Direct
-
IV 6 * 3
62 Central Buttress Direct Alternative start
-
V 6 4
63 Chevalier V 7 *  
64 Centrist V 5 ** 13
65 Sciolist
-
IV 4 * 2
66 Magical Mystery Tour
-
V 6 * 1
67 Shallow Gully
-
IV 4 8
  Shadow Buttress A
69 Shadow Rib
-
V 5 * 2
70 Shadowlands
-
VI 7 *** 7
71 Shadow Buttress A, Original Route IV 5 *** 154
72 Shadow Buttress A, Bell's Route III * 5
73 Moonshadow
-
V 5 ** 14
74 Giant's Head Chimney Direct
-
V 5 1
75 Giant's Head Chimney
-
IV 4 11
76 Polyphemus Gully
-
V 5 *** 103
  Shadow Buttress B
78 Raeburn's Groove
-
VII 7 *  
79 Bell's Route
-
V 6 ** 23
80 Turf Route
-
IV 4 ** 4
81 Shadow Buttress B
-
V 6 ** 3
82 Penumbra V 5 ** 3
83 Douglas-Gibson Gully
-
V 4 17
  Eagle Ridge and Parallel Buttress
85 Eagle Ridge (summer)
-
S *** 652
86 Eagle Ridge VI 6 *** 78
87 Eagle Buttress
-
IV 3 * 5
88 Eagle Groove IV 5 * 1
89 Where Eagles Dare
-
VII 8 *** 5
90 Parallel Gully A
-
III *** 82
91 Parallel A Gully Right Fork IV 4 ** 16
92 Parallel Buttress VI 6 14
93 Parallel Gully B V 5 *** 37
  Tough-Brown Face
95 Tough-Brown Traverse
-
IV 3 * 9
96 Tough-Brown Traverse (summer)
-
VD 1
97 Nymph VII *** 1
98 Crypt
-
VI 7  
99 Trail Of Tears
-
VII 7 *** 1
100 Diedre of the Sorrows
-
VIII 8 ***  
101 Crazy Sorrow
-
IX 10 *** 1
102 Mort
-
IX 9 *** 1
103 Mort (summer)
-
E2 **  
104 Rolling Thunder
-
VII 7 ***  
105 Tough Guy
-
VII 7 *** 6
106 Tough Brown Ridge Direct
-
V 6 ** 6
107 Tough Brown Ridge Direct (summer)
-
VS  
  Raeburn's Gully
109 Backdoor Route
-
IV 4 12
110 Raeburn's Gully
-
II *** 214
111 The Clam V 6 ** 3
112 Scarface Wall VIII 8 *** 1
113 Scarface
-
V 4 10
114 Amphitheatre Route
-
III 2
  Black Spout Pinnacle
116 Pinnacle Gully 1
-
III 19
117 Pinnacle Face (summer)
-
VS 4b * 3
118 Pinnacle Face
-
VI 7 6
119 Pinnacle Grooves (summer)
-
HVS 5a ** 10
120 The Link (summer)
-
VS 4c **  
121 The Link Face
-
VII 7 ***  
122 Link Direct
-
VIII 7 *** 2
123 Nihilist
-
E1 5b * 3
124 Nihilist Extremist Combination E2 5b ** 3
125 The Existentialist
-
E6 6b **  
126 Route One V 6 7
127 Black Spout Wall
-
E3 5c *** 10
128 Winter Black Spout Wall
-
IX 9 ***  
129 Steep Frowning Glories
-
E6 6b **  
130 Route 2
-
S * 3
131 Route 2 (Winter)
-
VI 6 ** 3
132 The Ice Ox
-
IV 4 3
133 Twin Chimneys Route
-
IV 5 1
134 Slab Gully III 2
135 Pinnacle Gully 2
-
II 10
136 Black Spout Left Hand Branch I ** 94
  The Stack
138 Crumbling Cranny II ** 37
139 Heliopolis E3 5c ** 2
140 Utramontane E4 6a ** 2
141 The Stack
-
V 6 ** 4
142 The Black Spout
-
I 176
143 The Black Spout, Right-Hand Finish III 4 6
144 The White Spout
-
IV 4 5
  West Buttress
146 Black Spout Buttress (summer)
-
D * 66
147 Black Spout Buttress
-
III 5 *** 55
148 Gargoyle Chimney
-
IV 4 7
149 Prince Of Darkness
-
VI 7 *** 2
150 Apophis E7 6b 1
151 West Gully
-
IV 4 ** 52
152 Gelder Buttress III 4 2
  COIRE NA SAOBHAIDHE
154 Central Icefall, Coire Na Saobhaidhe III 5
  COIRE LOCH NAN EUN
156 Bathtime Buttress
-
II **  
157 Plug Groove (Coire an loch nan Eun)
-
III 1
158 Stuic Buttress (Coire an loch nan Eun)
-
I ** 62
159 Stuic Buttress (Coire an loch nan Eun) (Summer)
-
1 9
160 Shepherd's Warning
-
III  
161 Solid Air
-
IV 4 *  
162 Daybreak Corners
-
III *  
163 Millennium Buttress
-
V 5 *  
164 Bonanza
-
V 7 ** 1
165 Twilight Groove
-
III 4 ** 1
166 First Light IV 5 ** 3
167 The Stooee Chimney
-
IV 7 *  
168 New Boot Groove (Coire an loch nan Eun) III 4 2
169 Serendipity Pillar
-
IV 5  
170 Morning Has Broken
-
V 6 ** 1
171 Big Block Groove
-
IV 4  
172 House of Cards
-
V 6 *  
173 The Slot, Left-Hand
-
III 4  
174 The Slot
-
IV 6 *  
175 Stegosaurus Rib (Coire an loch nan Eun)
-
II 5
176 Stegosaurus Rib (summer) 2 1

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