Climbs 171
Rocktype Granite
Altitude 1155m a.s.l
Faces all

Grovel Wall-Ian Duckworth about to ab off a tied off blade... © Rhoddy Stewart

Crag features

Provides some of the most spectacular, if not always the most reliable, winter climbing in the Cairngorms.

Huge cornices can form, making late season exits problematic. Gullies, as everywhere else, should be avoided like the plague during/after heavy snow or a thaw.

Unique hazard is bumping into Prince Charles on the approach, who is known to invite climbers into his bothy for a 'wee dram'. Make sure you wipe your boots before entering.

Approach notes

Carpark charge of £4 now levied by Royal Estate at Glen Muick carpark.

Beware after heavy snow: most approaches cross avalanche run outs. 

Car park is now 3 for the day
timday - 16/Mar/15
Login as Existing User to add your comments

Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  *Southern Sector*
  The Sentinal
3 Bells on the Rocks I 3
4 Sonshine Corner III 6
5 Fluffy Face IV 4 * 2
6 Pea Soup Chimney IV 4 1
7 Red Lightning II 4
8 Left Spiral
-
II 2
9 Jacob's Slabs III 4 * 19
10 Starlight and Storm V 5 * 5
11 Sentinel Couloir
-
II 7
12 Paladin * S  
13 Eagle Eye VS 4c *  
14 Sentinel Edge * S * 2
  Sunset Buttress
16 Iffy IV 4 2
17 Sunset Gully III 10
18 Quick Dash Crack IV 5 5
19 Sunset Buttress
-
III 5 * 5
20 Sunset Buttress Direct IV 7 ** 5
21 Pelican Groove II/III 2
22 Triangle Buttress (Summer) M 1
23 Triangle Buttress (Winter)
-
II 9
24 Red Spout I * 21
  Perseverance Wall
26 Perseverance Groove II 5
27 Forgotten Runnel II 1
28 Never Say Die III 4 * 6
29 Perseverance Rib
-
III 11
30 The Handrail III 4 1
31 Most Likely You Go Your Way III 2
32 Starburst II 5
33 Gale Force Groove III * 10
34 Lunar Eclipse
-
III * 5
35 The Gift
-
II ** 17
36 Cumberland
-
III 1
37 Temptress III * 3
38 Windfall III * 7
  The Cathedral
40 Unknown II *  
41 Ghost Dance
-
V 6 * 12
42 Transcept Groove IV 5 * 13
43 Transept Route V 6 ** 13
44 Sepulchre V 6 ** 14
45 Spellbound VI 7 ** 2
46 Judas Priest
-
V 5 * 10
47 Trinity VI 7 * 1
48 The Cracker VII 8 ** 1
49 Cathedral Chimney
-
IV 4 ** 45
50 Magic Pillar IV 5 *** 83
51 No Worries Groove V 6 *  
52 The Sorcerer V 6 * 3
53 Forsaken Gully
-
II 36
54 Mullahmaloumouktou *
-
E2 5c *  
  Sinister Buttress
56 Gully Route II 7
57 Central Gully
-
I 25
  *Main Sector*
59 Pointless walk to the Mountain Rescue box below the crag summit *** 5
  Central Buttress
61 Central Buttress (Summer)
-
M * 23
62 Central Buttress (Winter)
-
II ** 156
63 Fancy Free VII 9 ** 1
Climb name Grade
64 Footloose
-
VII 8 ** 1
65 Mantichore (Summer)
-
E1 5b 1
66 Mantichore (Winter)
-
VII 7 ** 5
67 Central Buttress Direct
-
IV 6 * 5
68 Central Buttress Direct Alternative start
-
V 6 6
69 Chevalier V 7 * 1
70 Centrist V 5 ** 10
71 Sciolist
-
IV 4 * 2
72 Magical Mystery Tour
-
V 6 * 1
73 Shallow Gully
-
IV 4 8
  Shadow Buttress A
75 Shadow Rib
-
V 5 * 2
76 Shadowlands
-
VI 7 *** 9
77 Shadow Buttress A, Original Route IV 5 *** 133
78 Shadow Buttress A, Bell's Route III * 5
79 Moonshadow
-
V 5 ** 16
80 Giant's Head Chimney Direct
-
V 5 1
81 Giant's Head Chimney
-
IV 4 11
82 Polyphemus Gully
-
V 5 *** 106
  Shadow Buttress B
84 Raeburn's Groove
-
VII 7 *  
85 Bell's Route
-
V 6 ** 31
86 Turf Route
-
IV 4 ** 4
87 Shadow Buttress B
-
V 6 ** 6
88 Penumbra V 5 ** 3
89 Douglas-Gibson Gully
-
V 4 20
  Eagle Ridge and Parallel Buttress
91 Eagle Ridge (Summer)
-
S *** 547
92 Eagle Ridge (Winter) VI 6 *** 88
93 Eagle Buttress
-
IV 3 * 5
94 Eagle Groove IV 5 * 2
95 Where Eagles Dare
-
VII 8 *** 5
96 Parallel Gully A
-
III *** 88
97 Parallel A Gully Right Fork IV 4 ** 19
98 Parallel Buttress VI 6 14
99 Parallel Gully B V 5 *** 37
  Tough-Brown Face
101 Tough-Brown Traverse (Summer)
-
VD 1
102 Tough-Brown Traverse (Winter)
-
IV 3 * 11
103 Nymph VII *** 1
104 Crypt
-
VI 7  
105 Trail of Tears
-
VII 7 *** 1
106 Dirge E1 5b 1
107 Diedre of the Sorrows
-
VIII 8 *** 1
108 Crazy Sorrow
-
IX 10 *** 1
109 Mort
-
IX 9 *** 1
110 Mort (summer)
-
E2 ** 2
111 Rolling Thunder
-
VII 7 *** 1
112 Tough Guy
-
VII 7 *** 6
113 Tough Brown Ridge Direct (Summer)
-
VS  
114 Tough Brown Ridge Direct (Winter)
-
V 6 ** 9
  Raeburn's Gully
116 Backdoor Route
-
IV 4 16
117 Raeburn's Gully
-
II *** 232
118 The Clam V 6 ** 3
119 Scarface Wall VIII 8 *** 1
120 Scarface
-
V 4 10
121 Amphitheatre Route
-
III 2
  Black Spout Pinnacle
123 Pinnacle Gully 1
-
III 19
124 Pinnacle Face (Summer)
-
VS 4b * 4
125 Pinnacle Face (Winter)
-
VI 7 6
126 Pinnacle Grooves (summer)
-
HVS 5a ** 10
Climb name Grade
127 The Link (Summer)
-
VS 4c **  
128 The Link (Winter)
-
VII 7 ***  
129 Link Direct
-
VIII 7 *** 3
130 Nihilist
-
E1 5b * 6
131 Nihilist Extremist Combination E2 5b ** 3
132 The Existentialist
-
E6 6b **  
133 Route One V 6 7
134 Black Spout Wall
-
E3 5c *** 14
135 Winter Black Spout Wall
-
IX 9 ***  
136 Steep Frowning Glories
-
E6 6b **  
137 Route 2 (Summer)
-
S * 4
138 Route 2 (Winter)
-
VI 6 ** 3
139 The Ice Ox
-
IV 4 3
140 Twin Chimneys Route
-
IV 5 3
141 Slab Gully III 2
142 Pinnacle Gully 2
-
II 11
143 Chinook
-
IV 4 1
  The Stack
145 Crumbling Cranny II ** 42
146 Heliopolis E3 5c ** 2
147 Utramontane E4 6a ** 2
148 The Stack
-
V 6 ** 4
149 Black Spout Left-hand Branch I ** 103
150 The Black Spout
-
I 189
151 The Black Spout Right-hand Finish III 4 7
152 The White Spout
-
IV 4 5
153 Early Bird Groove IV 6 * 1
  West Buttress
155 Black Spout Buttress (Summer)
-
D * 66
156 Black Spout Buttress (Winter)
-
III 5 *** 68
157 Gargoyle Chimney
-
IV 4 7
158 Prince of Darkness
-
VI 7 *** 3
159 Apophis E7 6b 1
160 West Gully
-
IV 4 ** 43
161 Gelder Buttress III 4 2
162 Western Slant * III * 2
  Coire na Saobhaidhe
164 Central Icefall III 5
  Coire Loch nan Eun
166 Bathtime Buttress
-
II **  
167 Plug Groove
-
III 1
168 Stuic Buttress (Summer)
-
1 13
169 Stuic Buttress (Winter)
-
I ** 77
170 Shepherd's Warning
-
III  
171 Solid Air
-
IV 4 * 1
172 Daybreak Corners
-
III *  
173 Millennium Buttress
-
V 5 *  
174 Bonanza
-
V 7 ** 1
175 Twilight Groove
-
III 4 ** 5
176 First Light IV 5 ** 10
177 The Stooee Chimney
-
IV 7 *  
178 New Boot Groove III 4 5
179 Serendipity Pillar
-
IV 5  
180 Morning Has Broken
-
V 6 ** 1
181 Big Block Groove
-
IV 4  
182 House of Cards
-
V 6 *  
183 The Slot Left-hand
-
III 4  
184 The Slot
-
IV 6 *  
185 Stegosaurus Rib (Summer) 2 2
186 Stegosaurus Rib (Winter)
-
II 7
187 Cac Carn Fall * II 1
188 Euan Corner * I 1
189 Bilberry Edge * II 1
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Stuart S